3G advice

[Tyler]

I have spent a lot of time reading about the conversion and have a 130amp alternator and harness in my Amazon cart at this very moment. However, I just need a warm fuzzy that replacing my 1G dual belt little guy with a 130 will be enough to add a decent LED light bar up front and 2 LED lights on my hitch at the rear. I haven't bought the extra lights yet.

My sniper system and fuel pump are zapping too much current for when I have headlights and heater blower on. Just gonna add lights in the near future and will also need to support standard trailer lights.

Thanks guys.

 

[Machspeed]

WOW, I've been doing the same thing and was just fixing to post on this when I saw your post. Rather than make another post, hope you don't mind if I add to it!

After a post I made here on a truck fire and the noted frequent fires and associated causes, I am attempting to eliminate all possible causes for a fire. One of those is the 2G alternator for which I’ve read are high on that list for potential fire causes. I still have my original OEM 2G alternator, thus my desire to make the change to the 3G. Know that I do not plan to add much more to my truck in regards to its current electrical load. At best, I may add a small amp to the newly installed stereo and upgrade the headlights. I’ve already don the harness change and added a new light switch.

I’ve read through our resources on the 3G conversion for which Gary and company did an exceptional job. Still, I’m left with questions. Want to start out with just a few and add to it.

My Truck: 351HO, Edlebrock Carb with electric choke, V-Belt system, no power windows or power locks.

 

1. Am I correct that my current V belt alternator has an 8.25” mount spacing?

2. If so, in the list of donor cars for which one can pull a 3G alternator and associated parts, do all those

have an 8.25” mount spacing?

3. As my truck won’t need much more than the current 2G alternator is supplying, would it matter if I

went with a 90 Amp alternator or a 130 Amp?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Tyler - The 130 amp 3G will be far more than enough for what you want to do. Not only will it put out more than twice what your current unit does, it'll put out as much at idle then the current one will.

But I highly recommend that you get one with at least a 2 second delay built in. Even my serpentine belt would chirp on startup as my 3G kicked in to fill the battery up after starting. However, the delayed start regulator fixed that.

On yours with v belts you'll probably have more squeal than I did. So you need the delay even more. And, do your best to stay with the dual belt arrangement.

[Gary Lewis]

WOW, I've been doing the same thing and was just fixing to post on this when I saw your post. Rather than make another post, hope you don't mind if I add to it!

After a post I made here on a truck fire and the noted frequent fires and associated causes, I am attempting to eliminate all possible causes for a fire. One of those is the 2G alternator for which I’ve read are high on that list for potential fire causes. I still have my original OEM 2G alternator, thus my desire to make the change to the 3G. Know that I do not plan to add much more to my truck in regards to its current electrical load. At best, I may add a small amp to the newly installed stereo and upgrade the headlights. I’ve already don the harness change and added a new light switch.

I’ve read through our resources on the 3G conversion for which Gary and company did an exceptional job. Still, I’m left with questions. Want to start out with just a few and add to it.

My Truck: 351HO, Edlebrock Carb with electric choke, V-Belt system, no power windows or power locks.

 

1. Am I correct that my current V belt alternator has an 8.25” mount spacing?

2. If so, in the list of donor cars for which one can pull a 3G alternator and associated parts, do all those

have an 8.25” mount spacing?

3. As my truck won’t need much more than the current 2G alternator is supplying, would it matter if I

went with a 90 Amp alternator or a 130 Amp?

John - I'm not an expert here, but I just measured the 1G I have and I found that it is 7" c/c on the bolts. So I'm confused as I would expect your 2G to fit in the same spot. But our page says "* Trucks that currently have V-Belts use the 8.125” mounts, and trucks that have serpentine belts use the 7” mount spacing. (* Need to verify this info)." So I don't have good answers.

Given that, I'm tagging Jim, who seems to have a better handle on this than I do.

[Gary Lewis]

John - I'm not an expert here, but I just measured the 1G I have and I found that it is 7" c/c on the bolts. So I'm confused as I would expect your 2G to fit in the same spot. But our page says "* Trucks that currently have V-Belts use the 8.125” mounts, and trucks that have serpentine belts use the 7” mount spacing. (* Need to verify this info)." So I don't have good answers.

Given that, I'm tagging Jim, who seems to have a better handle on this than I do.

I just spoke with DB Electric and I was told that they don't sell a 3G with an LRC regulator. Nor do they have the LRC regulator for sale.

It was a long conversation between myself and a very nice lady, who spent a lot of time talking to others at DB. I think she understood what I was asking for but the gurus she was talking to didn't. Finally she talked to a guy that used to build alternators for them and he said the only alternators they sell with LRC regulators are the 6G's, and they won't fit our trucks.

So if you want a DB alternator with LRC you'll have to change out the regulator yourself. It isn't hard, but it adds to the cost.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I just spoke with DB Electric and I was told that they don't sell a 3G with an LRC regulator. Nor do they have the LRC regulator for sale.

It was a long conversation between myself and a very nice lady, who spent a lot of time talking to others at DB. I think she understood what I was asking for but the gurus she was talking to didn't. Finally she talked to a guy that used to build alternators for them and he said the only alternators they sell with LRC regulators are the 6G's, and they won't fit our trucks.

So if you want a DB alternator with LRC you'll have to change out the regulator yourself. It isn't hard, but it adds to the cost.

Gary,

It is because the larger body of the 130A 3G -when combined with- the shorter 'arms' of a 7"C-C puts the alternator too 'deep in the pocket' to give you any appreciable adjustment.

Imagine trying to pass a fat man in a narrow hallway, or something like that.

As for not selling an alternator with LRC regulator. I don't know what to say....

The one I bought recently had one installed.

I had preemptively bought a new LRC regulator, intending to swap it out, but instead it was relegated to the parts box (until you asked for it)

I linked the one I'd purchased noting the fact of the odd packing and that it came with one.

[Machspeed]

I just spoke with DB Electric and I was told that they don't sell a 3G with an LRC regulator. Nor do they have the LRC regulator for sale.

It was a long conversation between myself and a very nice lady, who spent a lot of time talking to others at DB. I think she understood what I was asking for but the gurus she was talking to didn't. Finally she talked to a guy that used to build alternators for them and he said the only alternators they sell with LRC regulators are the 6G's, and they won't fit our trucks.

So if you want a DB alternator with LRC you'll have to change out the regulator yourself. It isn't hard, but it adds to the cost.

Gary, I'm pretty sure that mounting offset is 8.250", will measure it when I get home tonight. I've been doing a lot of study on this via our site and others and I see a lot of people merely wiring these 3G alternators in their trucks with little concern regarding the LRC regulator the ammeter and such. My strength is not in electrical and I want to do this right so I may have a few more questions. As always, thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

WOW, I've been doing the same thing and was just fixing to post on this when I saw your post. Rather than make another post, hope you don't mind if I add to it!

After a post I made here on a truck fire and the noted frequent fires and associated causes, I am attempting to eliminate all possible causes for a fire. One of those is the 2G alternator for which I’ve read are high on that list for potential fire causes. I still have my original OEM 2G alternator, thus my desire to make the change to the 3G. Know that I do not plan to add much more to my truck in regards to its current electrical load. At best, I may add a small amp to the newly installed stereo and upgrade the headlights. I’ve already don the harness change and added a new light switch.

I’ve read through our resources on the 3G conversion for which Gary and company did an exceptional job. Still, I’m left with questions. Want to start out with just a few and add to it.

My Truck: 351HO, Edlebrock Carb with electric choke, V-Belt system, no power windows or power locks.

 

1. Am I correct that my current V belt alternator has an 8.25” mount spacing?

2. If so, in the list of donor cars for which one can pull a 3G alternator and associated parts, do all those

have an 8.25” mount spacing?

3. As my truck won’t need much more than the current 2G alternator is supplying, would it matter if I

went with a 90 Amp alternator or a 130 Amp?

Ok, I got the mail and am responding:

No, your 2G is going to be 7" C-C, but the body diameter is likely 130 mm (like the 95A version of the 3G.

The 130A 3G is 148 mm and with the short 'arms' won't leave you with much tension adjustment.

It is the 3.8 V6 engines found in early '90's Taurus/Sable/Lincoln that will have the 8.25" mounting.

If you want a 7" 130A look at the 3.0 models

I don't know much about the 95A versions, as found in the mid-'90s trucks.

I wanted the better cooling and the bigger diode board found in the 130A version, more than any need for that much output.

I will say if you're considering an electric cooling fan the 130A should be installed.

Having the truck charging at idle was my bigger concern, given that in winter I often have my lights and blower running.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Tyler - The 130 amp 3G will be far more than enough for what you want to do. Not only will it put out more than twice what your current unit does, it'll put out as much at idle then the current one will.

But I highly recommend that you get one with at least a 2 second delay built in. Even my serpentine belt would chirp on startup as my 3G kicked in to fill the battery up after starting. However, the delayed start regulator fixed that.

On yours with v belts you'll probably have more squeal than I did. So you need the delay even more. And, do your best to stay with the dual belt arrangement.

Gary,

I want to point out that you have a 2 second response and a 6 second ramp up, as confirmed by Rusty in your thread.

But the last time I ordered from DB my boxes came labeled "J&N Electric".

That alternator had the same regulator that I sent you, and you have the data sheet to prove it.

**at least it has the same number as the one I sent you**

I called my order in to DB Electrical in Tennessee, so I'm quite sure I didn't get 'counterfeit' from Amazon.

**edit**

[ArdWrknTrk]

Tyler,

With V-belts you're going to find them slipping much over 100A draw, but your lack of charge at low revs will stop.

That's exactly why I installed mine, and it eliminates any issue there.

Gary is correct in saying that a 130A 3G will put out more at idle (if asked to) than the 65A a 2G puts out at redline.

Your 1G could be as anemic as 35A, but I don't know which version you have installed.