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"Realistic" towing ratings


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You all would have loved this one. A few years ago I had to help my daughter move her stuff from a storage place in Virginia Beach to the house she had just rented in Chesapeake. I went to the U-Haul location in Chesapeake to get the largest trailer (preferably enclosed) they had. I already had my 2 1/2" ball on it's drawbar and a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter. When I got up to the counter the biggest one they had left was a tandem axle open cargo trailer. Of course they wanted tow vehicle information, when I said 1986 Ford F350, I got "we'll have to inspect your vehicle to be sure it can handle the trailer". I said sure, no problem. They sent a kid, who, at the time probably wasn't as old as Darth. We walked outside and he says "where's your vehicle?" I pointed to Darth, and his reaction was, that'll anything we have on the lot. U-Haul, of course, like many corporations is worried about liability, but their data base only goes back about 5 years.

I used a weight distributing hitch one time, I was moving a friend's camper up I-64 to a campground that was hosting a bluegrass festival. When I went to get it, I was told he had a hitch for it. He told me that "it's pretty heavy, so you need to set the ball up high enough". I did as he said, hooked up the trailer and raised the jack, Darth's bumper went down maybe 1/2", then he wanted to install the equalizer bars, I said no. I al least want to know it's back there. When I took it back, I put the adjustable hitch ball back down so it towed level, still didn't use the equalizer bars. I told them, that (a) mine was a Ford not a Chevy and (b) was a 1 ton truck with dual rear wheels.

I've never even heard of a 2 1/2" ball on a receiver.

1 7/8, 2, 2 5/16".

I thought after that everything was a pintle hitch?

I'm sure there is bigger for a gooseneck.

But didn't think U-haul rented anything like that.

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I wouldent give, and dont give, towing a second thought with an AOD trans. I do it all of the time. When you get to a hill, take it out of overdrive and let her eat. I towed a 73 Buick Riviera from north of San Francisco to Az that way and that same trans is still in service . Do, how ever, put a large trans cooler on it.

THIS.

The AOD got a bad rap because people did not read their Owner's Manual or follow the "Towing Instructions" on the driver's side visor sticker. The overdrive band is designed for cruising, not towing. When you need to tow, use the "D" (OVERDRIVE LOCKOUT) gear and you should be just fine.

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I wouldent give, and dont give, towing a second thought with an AOD trans. I do it all of the time. When you get to a hill, take it out of overdrive and let her eat. I towed a 73 Buick Riviera from north of San Francisco to Az that way and that same trans is still in service . Do, how ever, put a large trans cooler on it.

THIS.

The AOD got a bad rap because people did not read their Owner's Manual or follow the "Towing Instructions" on the driver's side visor sticker. The overdrive band is designed for cruising, not towing. When you need to tow, use the "D" (OVERDRIVE LOCKOUT) gear and you should be just fine.

Not to mention the dual input shafts... Forgot that in 3rd gear torque is split between the shafts; the inner direct shaft doesn't get full load until OD.

Forgot to mention: my brakes are recently rebuilt on the stock setup (other than ceramic pads in the front).

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Not to mention the dual input shafts... Forgot that in 3rd gear torque is split between the shafts; the inner direct shaft doesn't get full load until OD.

Forgot to mention: my brakes are recently rebuilt on the stock setup (other than ceramic pads in the front).

And what about tires? I get it that you are not towing for a living and only want to tow when you need to. If you have P rated tires instead of LT (P= passenger, LT=lite truck). The weaker sidewalls of P tires can and will cause you trouble when towing. Most LT tires have heaver side walls that will handle the weight better. In most cases, you wont get the sway of death, that can and will jack knife and flip over the pickup and trailer.

Just more food for thought.

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A weight distributing hitch does help get some of the weight off the rear tires and axle, but they're not cheap.

Bob (Nothing Special) did a good little write-up when he was discussing moving his parents camper back to their lot.

And here's the thread where that was if anyone cares. The weight distributing hitch discussion starts at the bottom of page 1, in a post dated May 15 at 8:04 AM.

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And what about tires? I get it that you are not towing for a living and only want to tow when you need to. If you have P rated tires instead of LT (P= passenger, LT=lite truck). The weaker sidewalls of P tires can and will cause you trouble when towing. Most LT tires have heaver side walls that will handle the weight better. In most cases, you wont get the sway of death, that can and will jack knife and flip over the pickup and trailer.

Just more food for thought.

Hankook Optimo. Marked "Extra Load", rated for 2183lbs @50PSI Max (per the tire stamp).

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Hankook Optimo. Marked "Extra Load", rated for 2183lbs @50PSI Max (per the tire stamp).

As I understand, "Extra Load" is sort of a load range B+. Somewhere between B and C. At least that what I remember my local tire shop telling me when I was replacing the OE "Extra Load" Goodyear Wranglers on my '95 F-150.

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Not to mention the dual input shafts... Forgot that in 3rd gear torque is split between the shafts; the inner direct shaft doesn't get full load until OD.

Forgot to mention: my brakes are recently rebuilt on the stock setup (other than ceramic pads in the front).

AOD. 3rd gear is the innermost shaft to the direct clutch. It is splined to the front of the torque converter and is driven directly by the crank, in OD it is split 60% direct and 40% converter if I remember correctly. The AOD towing in 3rd is exactly like towing with a manual transmission. This is also why the throttle rod or cable adjustment is so critical to preventing damage, too much either way can burn it up or break something.

For those towing with an E4OD, big secret is a "tweak" to the computer forcing the converter clutch to stay engaged longer and connect earlier. With either a 460 or diesel let the engine's torque do the work. Mine is set for 80% throttle to unlock, which usually results in downshifting and locking up again. The actual gears are not where the heat comes from, it's the torque converter slippage.

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AOD. 3rd gear is the innermost shaft to the direct clutch. It is splined to the front of the torque converter and is driven directly by the crank, in OD it is split 60% direct and 40% converter if I remember correctly. The AOD towing in 3rd is exactly like towing with a manual transmission. This is also why the throttle rod or cable adjustment is so critical to preventing damage, too much either way can burn it up or break something.

The AOD is unique in that it does not have a lock-up torque converter. And yet it can run without torque-converter action. Unlike all other transmissions, the AOD has TWO input shafts. They are concentric, one inside the other.

The smaller, removable secondary input shaft is tied directly to the torque converter’s shell and forward clutch. The larger, hollow primary input shaft is driven by the torque converter’s turbine (torque multiplication) in First, Second, and Reverse gears. Full torque converter action is available in 1st and 2nd gears, and is always there, like a C6 for example.

However, 3rd and 4th gears use the direct input shaft, so there is absolutely NO torque converter action in 3rd or 4th, no matter what. In other words, the smaller, direct input shaft connects THROUGH the converter, bypassing converter action completely. This is good for gas mileage. And since there is no clutch in the torque converter nor need to control one, the AOD is simpler.

Ford called this design "split-torque" because 40% of the engine’s torque goes through the torque converter as torque multiplication (via the impeller, stator, and turbine), while 60% goes through the smaller input shaft in Third gear. When the transmission shifts into Overdrive or Fourth gear, 100% of the engine’s torque goes through the smaller secondary input shaft as straight drive and lock-up in the gear-train and clutch pack. Tip in the throttle and the AOD goes into Third gear with the split-torque pattern. At WOT, 100% of the torque goes through the torque converter and hollow primary input shaft.

Capiche?

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AOD. 3rd gear is the innermost shaft to the direct clutch. It is splined to the front of the torque converter and is driven directly by the crank, in OD it is split 60% direct and 40% converter if I remember correctly. The AOD towing in 3rd is exactly like towing with a manual transmission. This is also why the throttle rod or cable adjustment is so critical to preventing damage, too much either way can burn it up or break something.

The AOD is unique in that it does not have a lock-up torque converter. And yet it can run without torque-converter action. Unlike all other transmissions, the AOD has TWO input shafts. They are concentric, one inside the other.

The smaller, removable secondary input shaft is tied directly to the torque converter’s shell and forward clutch. The larger, hollow primary input shaft is driven by the torque converter’s turbine (torque multiplication) in First, Second, and Reverse gears. Full torque converter action is available in 1st and 2nd gears, and is always there, like a C6 for example.

However, 3rd and 4th gears use the direct input shaft, so there is absolutely NO torque converter action in 3rd or 4th, no matter what. In other words, the smaller, direct input shaft connects THROUGH the converter, bypassing converter action completely. This is good for gas mileage. And since there is no clutch in the torque converter nor need to control one, the AOD is simpler.

Ford called this design "split-torque" because 40% of the engine’s torque goes through the torque converter as torque multiplication (via the impeller, stator, and turbine), while 60% goes through the smaller input shaft in Third gear. When the transmission shifts into Overdrive or Fourth gear, 100% of the engine’s torque goes through the smaller secondary input shaft as straight drive and lock-up in the gear-train and clutch pack. Tip in the throttle and the AOD goes into Third gear with the split-torque pattern. At WOT, 100% of the torque goes through the torque converter and hollow primary input shaft.

Capiche?

I was thinking it was the other way around, but it's been years since I had the 1990 Town Car (gave it to my daughter in 2006 after her mother passed away and she needed a car).

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