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Worthy donor parts for 460 swap?


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Hey folks,

I'm prepping to put a 460 in my 84 Bronco. It's currently a carbed 351W with a manual (T170). I'm going to carbed 460 with a ZF5. I have the long block and tranny that I'm going to use already. I also already have the Saginaw/compressor/tensioner mount from a serpentine 460 E350. I found a 93 F350 2WD that has the 460 and I'm wondering what is worth taking off there, if anything? Is the radiator worth having (seems like upgraded aluminum ones don't cost much). What about A/C parts? I'm sure the alternator mount is the massive one that holds the smog pump; is that worth the trouble of taking out or should I just take the tensioner and buy an aftermarket support? What about the 450 other things that you guys know about that I wouldn't even think of?

Thanks

Chad

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Are you planning on running the custom mounts that allow you to bolt the 460 to the small black engine perches? The 460 perches are different, and you'll either need the custom adapter mounts, or to source the 460 perches. Just a heads up, the driver's side perch is riveted on, so you're gonna fight them unless you have a torch. You can sometimes find them on Ebay, and they are available aftermarket as well.
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Are you planning on running the custom mounts that allow you to bolt the 460 to the small black engine perches? The 460 perches are different, and you'll either need the custom adapter mounts, or to source the 460 perches. Just a heads up, the driver's side perch is riveted on, so you're gonna fight them unless you have a torch. You can sometimes find them on Ebay, and they are available aftermarket as well.

I’m going to use the newer 460 upgrade mounts that JBG sells. Simpler and cleaner and I got them on sale over the holidays.

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I’m going to use the newer 460 upgrade mounts that JBG sells. Simpler and cleaner and I got them on sale over the holidays.

Chad, are you running a remote filter or do you intend to divot your Windsor cross member?

The boss in the block of the 460 is worth having even if you're not using the angled filter adapter.

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I have a MAF/SEFI converted carbureted engine in my truck. Since it is a 1986 F350 it is a non-catalyst model. I left the smoke grinder (air pump) mount there, but simply went to a shorter belt on the alternator side. FYI it is a NAPA 060480 and works quite well. If you are upgrading the alternator (I have a 160 amp 3G), I found that a larger pulley (I think mine is for a 3.8L Taurus) or use a slow start regulator it will help with the tendency of the belt to slip after starting.

Oil filter, the factory angle adapter clears the frame on mine, but I believe when Gary was researching the frame information, we found, in addition to some interesting anomalies, that the 460 used a different front cross member. This may be the divot Jim referred to.

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I have a MAF/SEFI converted carbureted engine in my truck. Since it is a 1986 F350 it is a non-catalyst model. I left the smoke grinder (air pump) mount there, but simply went to a shorter belt on the alternator side. FYI it is a NAPA 060480 and works quite well. If you are upgrading the alternator (I have a 160 amp 3G), I found that a larger pulley (I think mine is for a 3.8L Taurus) or use a slow start regulator it will help with the tendency of the belt to slip after starting.

Oil filter, the factory angle adapter clears the frame on mine, but I believe when Gary was researching the frame information, we found, in addition to some interesting anomalies, that the 460 used a different front cross member. This may be the divot Jim referred to.

Yes, the divot is there for the adapter, and the cross member has a hole in it so you can tighten the adapter from the wheel well.

There are comparison pictures in Big Blue's thread back when Gary was figuring how to repair :nabble_florida-man-42_orig: hatchet job.

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Yes, the divot is there for the adapter, and the cross member has a hole in it so you can tighten the adapter from the wheel well.

There are comparison pictures in Big Blue's thread back when Gary was figuring how to repair :nabble_florida-man-42_orig: hatchet job.

I’m not going to the trouble of replacing the crossmember with the one with the “dent”. Too much trouble. I have the angle oil filter adapter that came on an 80s Ford van (I think) but I’m not hopeful that will work (will it?) so my fallback plan is the L&L relocator kit from JBG

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I’m not going to the trouble of replacing the crossmember with the one with the “dent”. Too much trouble. I have the angle oil filter adapter that came on an 80s Ford van (I think) but I’m not hopeful that will work (will it?) so my fallback plan is the L&L relocator kit from JBG

I don't know where the JBG conversion mounts put the engine, but I assume the fan still fits in the shroud.

If that's the case, an angle adapter will not fit with that crossmember.

But what I was asking about is the adapter boss that screws into the block, and allows you to install the banjo bolt you need for either the angle adapter OR a remote filter hose connection.

You need a big hex wrench or Allen socket to get these in or out of the block, and I'd suggest Loctite because it's going to suck when it loosens and you have to pick the engine up or out, since you have no access.

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I don't know where the JBG conversion mounts put the engine, but I assume the fan still fits in the shroud.

If that's the case, an angle adapter will not fit with that crossmember.

But what I was asking about is the adapter boss that screws into the block, and allows you to install the banjo bolt you need for either the angle adapter OR a remote filter hose connection.

You need a big hex wrench or Allen socket to get these in or out of the block, and I'd suggest Loctite because it's going to suck when it loosens and you have to pick the engine up or out, since you have no access.

Here’s a pick of the OEM adapter that I have with the other parts.

00142D42-5D08-453C-97D4-9615348D1E0C.jpeg.6573ebce2f2572a2e7e48709c8d80352.jpeg

The boss is the smaller part that has the threading on the inside and outside, correct? If that’s the case, yes, I have it.

Anybody have any problems with leaks from the L&L relocator kit? Ford racing makes a right angle adapter that would eliminate the hoses:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-oil-filter-adapter-billet-90-degree-for-pushrod-v8-engines/p/M6880B50/?year=1990&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItebnsfqU7gIVmK_ICh3AJgzBEBwYASABEgLEM_D_BwE

Anyone ever use this with success?

 

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I don't know where the JBG conversion mounts put the engine, but I assume the fan still fits in the shroud.

If that's the case, an angle adapter will not fit with that crossmember.

But what I was asking about is the adapter boss that screws into the block, and allows you to install the banjo bolt you need for either the angle adapter OR a remote filter hose connection.

You need a big hex wrench or Allen socket to get these in or out of the block, and I'd suggest Loctite because it's going to suck when it loosens and you have to pick the engine up or out, since you have no access.

See 6890

Diagram should be rotated clockwise along the provided line about 90degrees.

Side note: if anyone has a source for the large oring, please share.

oil-filter-adapter-illustration_orig.jpg.c4a062c8d7e97c8dfb6681d38fe47c8d.jpg

Update: guess I should have refreshed to see your new post :nabble_smiley_happy:

 

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