Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

A standing belt sander fixed some cheap hookers for me years ago.

Remflex gaskets are very highly regarded but I have not needed them yet.

I'd think some time spent with a good clean file could get you fairly close. 🤷‍♂️

Hi.

Thanks for your comments. I tried this gasket yesterday. The roughest looking but best so far. And I tightened the bolts from the ends and in wards. Then I drove around for a long time and had no leak. But in the evening there was a little ticking again. Took it out today but this time it was cylinder 7 that had a little leak.

Could probably be fixed had I tightened up the bolts. So back in with the gasket. And out on the road. Filled Eddie up with gas, E10 now. Compared to non ethanol gas Eddie runs leaner. WOT afr is 12, and cruising is 14.5 - 15,5. He still got power. Eddie taking a rest. I borrowed a Bosch temp. reader at work. Headers. Radiator hose front oil pan Interesting numbers🙂. The gasket works fine. Occasionally a weak ticking sound but I will let it be for now. We went to Trollstigen to have a look. The part of the road in the picture will not open before June 1.

Eddies gas consumption was so low I have to do another tes drive....

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

Thanks for your comments. I tried this gasket yesterday. The roughest looking but best so far. And I tightened the bolts from the ends and in wards. Then I drove around for a long time and had no leak. But in the evening there was a little ticking again. Took it out today but this time it was cylinder 7 that had a little leak.

Could probably be fixed had I tightened up the bolts. So back in with the gasket. And out on the road. Filled Eddie up with gas, E10 now. Compared to non ethanol gas Eddie runs leaner. WOT afr is 12, and cruising is 14.5 - 15,5. He still got power. Eddie taking a rest. I borrowed a Bosch temp. reader at work. Headers. Radiator hose front oil pan Interesting numbers🙂. The gasket works fine. Occasionally a weak ticking sound but I will let it be for now. We went to Trollstigen to have a look. The part of the road in the picture will not open before June 1.

Eddies gas consumption was so low I have to do another tes drive....

Greetings Stein

Beautiful pictures of beautiful Norway! And a good one of Eddie as well.

As for the temp ones, that's interesting. Not sure how to use them, but they are interesting none the less.

I don't know for sure, but I think the torque sequence you are using could be contributing to the leakage. The torque sequence shown below is for a head, but it illustrates the idea that you want to start in the center and work outward in sort of a spiral. That's because if you tighten down the ends first the center may not touch with enough force to create a seal.

[firefire]

Beautiful pictures of beautiful Norway! And a good one of Eddie as well.

As for the temp ones, that's interesting. Not sure how to use them, but they are interesting none the less.

I don't know for sure, but I think the torque sequence you are using could be contributing to the leakage. The torque sequence shown below is for a head, but it illustrates the idea that you want to start in the center and work outward in sort of a spiral. That's because if you tighten down the ends first the center may not touch with enough force to create a seal.

Hi.

I did torque the bolts earlier like you say I may should. But since I had no succes with that I tried the opposite. Theory being to get the end down good at first. And it did work better in this case. But could also be a better gasket.

For temps I dont know what to consider normal. 158'c at the bottom of the oil pan seems hot. 87'c on the spark plug too maybe. But coolant at 71'c I consider ok.

Cant hear any pinging.

Greetings Stein

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

I did torque the bolts earlier like you say I may should. But since I had no succes with that I tried the opposite. Theory being to get the end down good at first. And it did work better in this case. But could also be a better gasket.

For temps I dont know what to consider normal. 158'c at the bottom of the oil pan seems hot. 87'c on the spark plug too maybe. But coolant at 71'c I consider ok.

Cant hear any pinging.

Greetings Stein

If it works it works, so no need to change.

On the temps, 158C is 316F and that is very hot for oil as this site says it should be 110C/230F to 127C/260F. 87C/189F would seem cool for a spark plug, but I really don't know. And 71C/160F is cool for coolant.

So maybe there's some set up you have to do with that gun?

[firefire]

If it works it works, so no need to change.

On the temps, 158C is 316F and that is very hot for oil as this site says it should be 110C/230F to 127C/260F. 87C/189F would seem cool for a spark plug, but I really don't know. And 71C/160F is cool for coolant.

So maybe there's some set up you have to do with that gun?

Hi.

Here is a new report on the exhaust leak case.But first the temp reading on the oil pan was false. Something with the angle of reading or the background fooled the meter.When reading close to the pan the temp was between 70 and 80'c anywhere on the pan. I think I had the headers on and off 3 times with different seals. And everythime I got home from a test drive the ticking was there. It made me nervous that there was something wrong with the engine. I could not see signs of exhaust leaks. Lastly I put a fiber gasket against the head and outside of that I put the MultiLayerSteel gasket. With this sandwich I figured there could be no leak. So I started up and no ticking. But as the engine heated up the ticking sound came back. I just could not pinpoint the sound. So I bought a stetoscope No ticking from the headers, valve covers, ps pump, ac, distributor, block, oil pressure sensor or oil filter. Then put it on the fuel pump. And there it was.. When all this started I suspected the ticking was from the fuel pump and replaced it. But then it was the exhaust seal. So I had replaced a good fuel pump with a bad one. This was a new Spectra Premium 1005 mp. It has better outside finish but that does not help when its bad inside. Spectra pump left. Looks like the pump has a bent or canted rod . On page 23 in my thread you have something similar going on. And I lost faith in Spectra Premium being Premium. Next I have to adjust timing. Used a light and the readings were for total advance: 600rpm/ 12'btds, 1000/12'btds, 1500/24'btds, 2000/40'btds, 2500/42'btds. Then with vacuum disconnected : 600/12, 1000/12, 1500/14, 2000/16 , 2500/18.

Did not go higher. I believe total is to high. Had the distributor out and it made a rattling sound when shaken. Is that normal ? Waiting for a new distributor and will then check the innards of the old one. I mean the weights/ springs. Also waiting for a new dash voltage regulator from Carpenter. There is enough to do. 3 weeks to vacation..🙂

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

Here is a new report on the exhaust leak case.But first the temp reading on the oil pan was false. Something with the angle of reading or the background fooled the meter.When reading close to the pan the temp was between 70 and 80'c anywhere on the pan. I think I had the headers on and off 3 times with different seals. And everythime I got home from a test drive the ticking was there. It made me nervous that there was something wrong with the engine. I could not see signs of exhaust leaks. Lastly I put a fiber gasket against the head and outside of that I put the MultiLayerSteel gasket. With this sandwich I figured there could be no leak. So I started up and no ticking. But as the engine heated up the ticking sound came back. I just could not pinpoint the sound. So I bought a stetoscope No ticking from the headers, valve covers, ps pump, ac, distributor, block, oil pressure sensor or oil filter. Then put it on the fuel pump. And there it was.. When all this started I suspected the ticking was from the fuel pump and replaced it. But then it was the exhaust seal. So I had replaced a good fuel pump with a bad one. This was a new Spectra Premium 1005 mp. It has better outside finish but that does not help when its bad inside. Spectra pump left. Looks like the pump has a bent or canted rod . On page 23 in my thread you have something similar going on. And I lost faith in Spectra Premium being Premium. Next I have to adjust timing. Used a light and the readings were for total advance: 600rpm/ 12'btds, 1000/12'btds, 1500/24'btds, 2000/40'btds, 2500/42'btds. Then with vacuum disconnected : 600/12, 1000/12, 1500/14, 2000/16 , 2500/18.

Did not go higher. I believe total is to high. Had the distributor out and it made a rattling sound when shaken. Is that normal ? Waiting for a new distributor and will then check the innards of the old one. I mean the weights/ springs. Also waiting for a new dash voltage regulator from Carpenter. There is enough to do. 3 weeks to vacation..🙂

Greetings Stein

Well, at least you figured out what the noise is, and you have a well-sealed header.

As for the distributor, I don't think it should rattle. I just shook the one that I have laying around and it didn't rattle.

But I don't know that you have too much advance. I wouldn't look at the #'s with the vacuum connected. Instead just use the #'s w/o vacuum. And 18 degrees of mechanical advance isn't all that much. If you are running 12 degrees initial advance that's only 30 degrees total. I tend to remember 30 - 35 being about right for a 351W.

So if you don't have pinging then you probably don't have too much.

But I'll tag Bill as he will know better than I do.

[firefire]

Well, at least you figured out what the noise is, and you have a well-sealed header.

As for the distributor, I don't think it should rattle. I just shook the one that I have laying around and it didn't rattle.

But I don't know that you have too much advance. I wouldn't look at the #'s with the vacuum connected. Instead just use the #'s w/o vacuum. And 18 degrees of mechanical advance isn't all that much. If you are running 12 degrees initial advance that's only 30 degrees total. I tend to remember 30 - 35 being about right for a 351W.

So if you don't have pinging then you probably don't have too much.

But I'll tag Bill as he will know better than I do.

Hi.

For the time I have a partly dismantled dash, front seats and carpet out of the car and a distributor in pieces on my work bench 🙂. I am waiting for a new voltage regulator. I noticed how bleak the pointers were so I painted them. If I am lucky the voltage regulator will be here tomorrow. The front carpet is out for a cleaning.

I got a new distributor today. So out with the old. I dismantled it down to the weights. They are making a little rattle when shaking the distributor. Could not see anything wrong there. I see there is a strong and a weak spring in there. Is that original ? Or a tuning trick ? Also cleaned up this for new grease It was very gritty and the pickup did not turn easily ( vacuum advance).

Next up will be deciding new dizzy or cleaned up old ?

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

For the time I have a partly dismantled dash, front seats and carpet out of the car and a distributor in pieces on my work bench 🙂. I am waiting for a new voltage regulator. I noticed how bleak the pointers were so I painted them. If I am lucky the voltage regulator will be here tomorrow. The front carpet is out for a cleaning.

I got a new distributor today. So out with the old. I dismantled it down to the weights. They are making a little rattle when shaking the distributor. Could not see anything wrong there. I see there is a strong and a weak spring in there. Is that original ? Or a tuning trick ? Also cleaned up this for new grease It was very gritty and the pickup did not turn easily ( vacuum advance).

Next up will be deciding new dizzy or cleaned up old ?

Greetings Stein

Gauges look great!

While the carpet is out have you thought of adding sound deadening? Or have you already done that?

You are adding a solid state voltage regulator the gauges?

On the distributor it is normal to have a weak spring and a strong spring. But you might not put the new distributor in? Why? The bearings ought to be better. But the timing may be different as it could have different springs and weights.

[85lebaront2]

Hi.

For the time I have a partly dismantled dash, front seats and carpet out of the car and a distributor in pieces on my work bench 🙂. I am waiting for a new voltage regulator. I noticed how bleak the pointers were so I painted them. If I am lucky the voltage regulator will be here tomorrow. The front carpet is out for a cleaning.

I got a new distributor today. So out with the old. I dismantled it down to the weights. They are making a little rattle when shaking the distributor. Could not see anything wrong there. I see there is a strong and a weak spring in there. Is that original ? Or a tuning trick ? Also cleaned up this for new grease It was very gritty and the pickup did not turn easily ( vacuum advance).

Next up will be deciding new dizzy or cleaned up old ?

Greetings Stein

Ford Dual advance distributors:

First, the tang in the advance cam slot, it should have a piece of rubber over it so it doesn't rattle at lower RPM. Springs, if you examine them closely, you will see the heavy spring has a bit of play in the ends. The light spring controls the centrifugal advance up to a certain point, then the heavy spring slows the rate down. My 1966 Shelby GT350 had a dual point centrifugal only distributor. The advance was mostly in by 4000 rpm, but it would still continue, although slower, to 6000 rpm.

[firefire]

Ford Dual advance distributors:

First, the tang in the advance cam slot, it should have a piece of rubber over it so it doesn't rattle at lower RPM. Springs, if you examine them closely, you will see the heavy spring has a bit of play in the ends. The light spring controls the centrifugal advance up to a certain point, then the heavy spring slows the rate down. My 1966 Shelby GT350 had a dual point centrifugal only distributor. The advance was mostly in by 4000 rpm, but it would still continue, although slower, to 6000 rpm.

Hi.

Now the dash has come back in. And with the new voltage regulator the needles for oil pressure and temperatur is back in the middle of the normal. Voltage reg. in the right hand upper corner. Next up was to get in the new distributor Wai Global dst2895a. Decided to use the lid and rotor from my Motorcraft distributor. The Motorcraft lid had thicker points and a spring loaded center point. Their rotor looked better too. Putting in the distributor should be easy.... But I just could not get the distributor all down. I tried and tried but it would not enter. I think after an hour I finally understood what was wrong. The drive shaft for the oil pump rested off center. So it would not enter inside the distributor shaft. If I pushed the shaft to straighten it up it just slipped out to the side again and again. Did not help to do this either

When I put some sticky grease on the axle I made it centered long enough to get the distributor down. But I could not get the new distributor to match settings I had marked after the old . After awhile I understood that they look the same but they are not. So then it was under the engine and turn it to 0 center. And fiddle again and again with the axle. I also had to turn it in small increments ( 8 mm socket ) to make it easier for it to enter😡. After 4 hours I got the distributor in pointing at cylinder 1. Here is the advance. Only mechanical. Initial is 12 btdc.

600 rpm/ 12btdc, 1000/12, 1500/12, 2000/26, 3000/28, 4000/32. With vacuum ( ported ), 1000/12, 1500/16, 2000/42, after 2000 out of the markings on the balancer. Any comments ? Will go for a ride later in the evening.

Vacumed Eddies carpet after it had dried up outdoors. Afterwards I placed the carpet and seats inside, closed all doors and windows. Then fired of this inside. Can guarantee there is no old car smell any more😄.

Greetings Stein