Fixing Eddie

[Gsmblue]

They look great, Stein! Well done!

They look fab!!

The MTs are looking good, but only have about 500miles on them.

I am going to be rebuilding the front end when the weather improves and I will clean the wheels then.

[firefire]

They look fab!!

The MTs are looking good, but only have about 500miles on them.

I am going to be rebuilding the front end when the weather improves and I will clean the wheels then.

Hi.

The last two weeks we have had very nice weather. Enough snow for the skiers and dry roads for the drivers. Gsmblue. Recommend waxing the MT`s after polishing. Makes the rims very easy to clean and they look even better. Eddie got home 2. of April and we have been on a few rides. But the roads are still dusty and a little dirty after the winter. Many people are still using winter tires with studs. I have checked the fan resistor after reading some horror stories about fires. Luckily it looked good.No debris in there. Before cleaning. During cleaning I suddenly thought I had brushed/ cleaned one connector off Sure got happy when I relaised it should be like that.

Second thing was to find out why there was a tiny oil leak from the oil filter. It was the only oil leak on Eddie. After cleaning both sides of the rubber gasket on the filter and remounting it it stopped leaking. But lying under there I saw something else. The bolt heads holding the back plate on the water pump are to thick. They hit the timing cover and prevent a proper seal. So now its time for dismantling:nabble_smiley_cry: Pump is ITM 28953. Watch out for bolt heads my friends. Did not notice this when I put it in one year ago. The heads have to be grinded down. Or maybe I will go for a new pump in Alu. Got off all other parts this evening. Will take out the pump later when the new pump arrives. Would you recommend changing the gasket for the timing cover too ?

Greetings Stein.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

The last two weeks we have had very nice weather. Enough snow for the skiers and dry roads for the drivers. Gsmblue. Recommend waxing the MT`s after polishing. Makes the rims very easy to clean and they look even better. Eddie got home 2. of April and we have been on a few rides. But the roads are still dusty and a little dirty after the winter. Many people are still using winter tires with studs. I have checked the fan resistor after reading some horror stories about fires. Luckily it looked good.No debris in there. Before cleaning. During cleaning I suddenly thought I had brushed/ cleaned one connector off Sure got happy when I relaised it should be like that.

Second thing was to find out why there was a tiny oil leak from the oil filter. It was the only oil leak on Eddie. After cleaning both sides of the rubber gasket on the filter and remounting it it stopped leaking. But lying under there I saw something else. The bolt heads holding the back plate on the water pump are to thick. They hit the timing cover and prevent a proper seal. So now its time for dismantling:nabble_smiley_cry: Pump is ITM 28953. Watch out for bolt heads my friends. Did not notice this when I put it in one year ago. The heads have to be grinded down. Or maybe I will go for a new pump in Alu. Got off all other parts this evening. Will take out the pump later when the new pump arrives. Would you recommend changing the gasket for the timing cover too ?

Greetings Stein.

That's a bummer! Glad you caught it, Stein.

As for the timing cover gasket, if the timing cover moves then I'd pull it and replace the gasket. But it might stay glued in place, and if so then I don't think you need to pull it.

[firefire]

That's a bummer! Glad you caught it, Stein.

As for the timing cover gasket, if the timing cover moves then I'd pull it and replace the gasket. But it might stay glued in place, and if so then I don't think you need to pull it.

Hi. I consider buying a new timing cover.

What are the peoples thoughts about aluminium parts versus cast iron ?

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi. I consider buying a new timing cover.

What are the peoples thoughts about aluminium parts versus cast iron ?

Greetings Stein

If the cost is similar I'd go cast iron. There are at least two issues with aluminum, both associated with corrosion.

First, I've seen timing covers so eaten up by corrosion that they couldn't be reused. However, the problem there was due to people not changing the coolant, and since you have an aluminum intake manifold (right?) you are going to have to change the coolant anyway. And, you are diligent so would change the coolant even if you don't have an aluminum intake.

Second, the bolts are known to corrode to the timing cover such that you can't get them out. But a good dose of anti-seize or PTFE as you install them should fix that.

But since those problems are easily solved, if aluminum is a lot less expensive then go with it.

[firefire]

If the cost is similar I'd go cast iron. There are at least two issues with aluminum, both associated with corrosion.

First, I've seen timing covers so eaten up by corrosion that they couldn't be reused. However, the problem there was due to people not changing the coolant, and since you have an aluminum intake manifold (right?) you are going to have to change the coolant anyway. And, you are diligent so would change the coolant even if you don't have an aluminum intake.

Second, the bolts are known to corrode to the timing cover such that you can't get them out. But a good dose of anti-seize or PTFE as you install them should fix that.

But since those problems are easily solved, if aluminum is a lot less expensive then go with it.

Hi. I remember my old one of cast steel was pretty corroded. There seems to be an overflow of aluminium models. I have not decided yet.

[firefire]

Hi. I remember my old one of cast steel was pretty corroded. There seems to be an overflow of aluminium models. I have not decided yet.

Hi. We have had very nice weather for a long time now.Night temp. are on the plus side and up to 15`C ( 60`F) at daytime. But may get some snow tomorrow..

Started on replacing water pump and timing cover today. Have been collecting parts for a week or two. And this time I pulled the Balancer off the right wayNew timing cover and water pump are aluminium. The original timing cover is also aluminium. There has been a leak there. The bolts around the ports were rusty and wet.Brushed and cleaned them good and applied a coating of Loctite Aluminium Anti-Seize before reinstalling. This time I worked on a thin layer of The Right Stuff on both sides of all gaskets ( Fel-Pro). Also the gasket inside the new waterpump. Brand GMB-125-123Alu. For the low price they leave the final finishing to the buyer. Filed down sharp edges from the casting. Don`t want leaking hoses.And I wonder if the pipe to the right is supposed to be like that ? Here is the timing cover with seal from Fel-Pro installed, the other one came with the timing cover, unbranded. On the left side there is a hole for the dipstick which I threaded for a 10mm bolt to plug it. When finished it looked like this. Good clearance for the bolts. Planned on finishing everything tomorrow. But I found this. Its a Delphi fuel pump. 10000 miles, 3 years old. I have blamed the oil filter for leaking oil but now I may have found the real sinner. Or they both had it going at the same time I know many of you readers have changed to electric fuel pumps. Is it more reliable ? And does someone know which fuel filter will fit the connectors on the nylon fuel line on my Bronco ? One thing I have noticed is that the life span and/ or quality of the parts I buy are wery often lower than expected. And I may be some of the cause myself most often looking for lower prices. I would pay more if I knew the product was better. But much of what I see for sale are identical products under different brands and pricing. Whats certain is that bad parts results in a unreliable car and more repairs. In Norway we have finally got gas with 10% ethanol . The 5% is no more available. But we can buy 98 octan with no ethanol. Which is much more expensive and many places not available. Whats your experience with Bullnoses and E10 ? Hope to get Eddie running during next week. There is a amcar meeting coming up nearby:nabble_smiley_happy:

Greetings Stein.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi. We have had very nice weather for a long time now.Night temp. are on the plus side and up to 15`C ( 60`F) at daytime. But may get some snow tomorrow..

Started on replacing water pump and timing cover today. Have been collecting parts for a week or two. And this time I pulled the Balancer off the right wayNew timing cover and water pump are aluminium. The original timing cover is also aluminium. There has been a leak there. The bolts around the ports were rusty and wet.Brushed and cleaned them good and applied a coating of Loctite Aluminium Anti-Seize before reinstalling. This time I worked on a thin layer of The Right Stuff on both sides of all gaskets ( Fel-Pro). Also the gasket inside the new waterpump. Brand GMB-125-123Alu. For the low price they leave the final finishing to the buyer. Filed down sharp edges from the casting. Don`t want leaking hoses.And I wonder if the pipe to the right is supposed to be like that ? Here is the timing cover with seal from Fel-Pro installed, the other one came with the timing cover, unbranded. On the left side there is a hole for the dipstick which I threaded for a 10mm bolt to plug it. When finished it looked like this. Good clearance for the bolts. Planned on finishing everything tomorrow. But I found this. Its a Delphi fuel pump. 10000 miles, 3 years old. I have blamed the oil filter for leaking oil but now I may have found the real sinner. Or they both had it going at the same time I know many of you readers have changed to electric fuel pumps. Is it more reliable ? And does someone know which fuel filter will fit the connectors on the nylon fuel line on my Bronco ? One thing I have noticed is that the life span and/ or quality of the parts I buy are wery often lower than expected. And I may be some of the cause myself most often looking for lower prices. I would pay more if I knew the product was better. But much of what I see for sale are identical products under different brands and pricing. Whats certain is that bad parts results in a unreliable car and more repairs. In Norway we have finally got gas with 10% ethanol . The 5% is no more available. But we can buy 98 octan with no ethanol. Which is much more expensive and many places not available. Whats your experience with Bullnoses and E10 ? Hope to get Eddie running during next week. There is a amcar meeting coming up nearby:nabble_smiley_happy:

Greetings Stein.

You are doing very well. And you are wise to clean up the castings before installation. But that hose fitting does look dodgy. Can you round the lip on it?

And liberal applications of aluminum anti-seize is highly recommended for the bolts. That should both prevent them from rusting as well as seizing in the cover or block.

As for the fuel pump, that appears to be oil and I'm surprised that the pump is leaking oil there. I've always assumed that the hole was in case the diaphragm leaked fuel. But didn't expect oil to come out there. So yes, I'd replace it but I'd stay with a mechanical fuel pump. Going electric isn't easy and I've not seen many mechanical pumps fail.

On the fuel filter, are you replacing an original? Adding one? If so, where? I have a fuel filter on Big Blue under the driver on the frame rail but there are the connectors in the Nylon lines for the filter there.

And E10 is OK if you don't let it sit around. The old rubber fuel lines weren't designed for it but the Nylon lines don't care. However, if it sits a long time it tends to go bad more quickly than pure gas.

 

[firefire]

You are doing very well. And you are wise to clean up the castings before installation. But that hose fitting does look dodgy. Can you round the lip on it?

And liberal applications of aluminum anti-seize is highly recommended for the bolts. That should both prevent them from rusting as well as seizing in the cover or block.

As for the fuel pump, that appears to be oil and I'm surprised that the pump is leaking oil there. I've always assumed that the hole was in case the diaphragm leaked fuel. But didn't expect oil to come out there. So yes, I'd replace it but I'd stay with a mechanical fuel pump. Going electric isn't easy and I've not seen many mechanical pumps fail.

On the fuel filter, are you replacing an original? Adding one? If so, where? I have a fuel filter on Big Blue under the driver on the frame rail but there are the connectors in the Nylon lines for the filter there.

And E10 is OK if you don't let it sit around. The old rubber fuel lines weren't designed for it but the Nylon lines don't care. However, if it sits a long time it tends to go bad more quickly than pure gas.

Hi. I can round the edges. But as you can see halv a edge is missing. The fuel pump is actually only a little more than 2 years old. For the fuel filter I thought it would be nice to just click a filter on the nylon fuel line. The same way the fuel line is clicked on the gas tank. Sounds like you have a arangement like that. Do you have a model/ name for it ? The nylon lines are 5/16".

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi. I can round the edges. But as you can see halv a edge is missing. The fuel pump is actually only a little more than 2 years old. For the fuel filter I thought it would be nice to just click a filter on the nylon fuel line. The same way the fuel line is clicked on the gas tank. Sounds like you have a arangement like that. Do you have a model/ name for it ? The nylon lines are 5/16".

Greetings Stein

My understanding is that the lip is just to keep the hose from sliding off, so half of a lip should do it.

On the fuel filter, you'll have to cut into your line and install the fittings. This is the filter for a '96 F-Series truck and it is what I have on Big Blue. These fittings adapt 5/16" steel to 3/8" Nylon line, but if your line is truly 5/16" then you'll need to find those fittings. I used 3/8" line for both the supply and the return although the factory used 3/8" supply and 5/16" return on the EFI trucks. But as yours has a carb it might well have been 5/16".

There's a very recent post on here where a guy put a filter on, so you should read it.

To put the Nylon line on the fittings there's a tool called Dorman 800-301, but someone on here made a tool using a board in a vise recently and it worked fine. But I can't find the post - yet.