Fixing Eddie

[Gary Lewis]

Hi again. Now the cold weather has changed to warm weather and some rain. Daytime 10`C / 50`F. Had the front calipers off to check the pistons. Thought the rotors were a little to hard to turn. The pistons were shiny and good.Worked them a little in and out and put a little grease inside their dust boot. Back on with new paint. Still working on the rear brakes. Have been painting some interior parts and have new bands. But haven`t got to mount them yet. So I thought why not replace the rear bearings ? When pulling at the axle and giving it a few whacks from behind with a copper hammer it came easily out. The bearing itself split leaving the inner race inside the axle tube. Got it out with a sliding hammer.Today I got the bearings off their shafts. Timken U 365L, Made in USA NJ Think they were the originals ? Will be replaced with these. To remove the old ones I used the angle grinder and chisel trick. Made some small scars in one axle Next will be putting on the new bearings and brake parts. The spring is still some months away and I am in no hurry yet.

Greetings Stein.

That's good progress.

On the bearings, usually when you get close to cutting through with the groove the race pops open. But you got them off. Well done!

[firefire]

That's good progress.

On the bearings, usually when you get close to cutting through with the groove the race pops open. But you got them off. Well done!

Hi.

Here is a update. This evening we have a storm hitting us from the west.. Strong winds and rain.

The Timken bearings were the standard original ones from 1986. So the last weeks I have been prepairing the parts for reassembly. Had the dusts shields sand blasted, metallized and painted. I think they are worth trying to preserve since they were in good condition. Also evened the resting points for the brake shoes with JB.Weld. How long that will last I don`t know. Cleaned axels and these covers.Then primed before painting. Today I decided it was time to get the bearings on. Being alone home I did this. Bearing in a bag, 15 minutes carefull boiling. The idea is it will be easier to press the bearings on if they are warm. I went for the pipe and sledgehammer technic. I used the old and split locking ring as a buffer between the pipe and the new bearing. Starting beating the pipe one handed ( had to hold the pipe with my left hand) with the sledgehammer I found out soon enough I was underpowered. The bearing barely crept downwards. So changed to this setup.Now the pipe stays put and standing on the little chair I could use two hands on the sledgehammer. That got the bearing moving. It takes considerably force to get that bearing on. I took the bearing and lock ring seperately. And to those who wonder how the race is fastened to the bearing ? They are glued together. Did of course come apart when I started beating. Cleaned the races for glue and put them back on. Cleaned the opening in the axle tube, cleaned bolts Greased up everything and ready for the final assembly. And finished Next will be the brake parts. Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

Here is a update. This evening we have a storm hitting us from the west.. Strong winds and rain.

The Timken bearings were the standard original ones from 1986. So the last weeks I have been prepairing the parts for reassembly. Had the dusts shields sand blasted, metallized and painted. I think they are worth trying to preserve since they were in good condition. Also evened the resting points for the brake shoes with JB.Weld. How long that will last I don`t know. Cleaned axels and these covers.Then primed before painting. Today I decided it was time to get the bearings on. Being alone home I did this. Bearing in a bag, 15 minutes carefull boiling. The idea is it will be easier to press the bearings on if they are warm. I went for the pipe and sledgehammer technic. I used the old and split locking ring as a buffer between the pipe and the new bearing. Starting beating the pipe one handed ( had to hold the pipe with my left hand) with the sledgehammer I found out soon enough I was underpowered. The bearing barely crept downwards. So changed to this setup.Now the pipe stays put and standing on the little chair I could use two hands on the sledgehammer. That got the bearing moving. It takes considerably force to get that bearing on. I took the bearing and lock ring seperately. And to those who wonder how the race is fastened to the bearing ? They are glued together. Did of course come apart when I started beating. Cleaned the races for glue and put them back on. Cleaned the opening in the axle tube, cleaned bolts Greased up everything and ready for the final assembly. And finished Next will be the brake parts. Greetings Stein

Well done, Stein!!!

[firefire]

Well done, Stein!!!

Hi again.

Now most of the snow is gone and we have refrigerator temperstures and a storm again. This one capable of blowing the lighter trucks off the road. Resulting in some cancelled feries, closed bridges. Put in the new brakeparts a few days ago. Painted the new wheel cylinders and adjusters. Green on the stearboard side, red on the babord side. Next I have been working on is new brakelines. Bought a 7 piece kit from the Bronco Graveyard for 80 - 86 Bronco. Item 32520ss. Happy to say it fit exactely.

Producer Inline Tube. The few and necessary adjustments were easy to do. The most difficult thing was to thread the fittings. They really has to enter 100% straight or they will not thread. Stainless steel lines look good. Used a drill brush to clean the brake drums. Primed them with Brunox. Will paint them black later. Now I wonder how to attack the leaking oil pan

Greetings Stein

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hi again.

Now most of the snow is gone and we have refrigerator temperstures and a storm again. This one capable of blowing the lighter trucks off the road. Resulting in some cancelled feries, closed bridges. Put in the new brakeparts a few days ago. Painted the new wheel cylinders and adjusters. Green on the stearboard side, red on the babord side. Next I have been working on is new brakelines. Bought a 7 piece kit from the Bronco Graveyard for 80 - 86 Bronco. Item 32520ss. Happy to say it fit exactely.

Producer Inline Tube. The few and necessary adjustments were easy to do. The most difficult thing was to thread the fittings. They really has to enter 100% straight or they will not thread. Stainless steel lines look good. Used a drill brush to clean the brake drums. Primed them with Brunox. Will paint them black later. Now I wonder how to attack the leaking oil pan

Greetings Stein

Looking good, Stein!

I'm glad the Inline Tube brake lines fit. I bought their kit for Dad's truck and had to re-bend every line, and then they had to remake one as it had the wrong fitting on it. And you are right, the lines have to go in perfectly straight or the fittings will cross-thread. But in the end they look good and will last forever.

As for the oil pan, that's not fun. I think it is easier to pull the engine than to do it in the vehicle.

[firefire]

Looking good, Stein!

I'm glad the Inline Tube brake lines fit. I bought their kit for Dad's truck and had to re-bend every line, and then they had to remake one as it had the wrong fitting on it. And you are right, the lines have to go in perfectly straight or the fittings will cross-thread. But in the end they look good and will last forever.

As for the oil pan, that's not fun. I think it is easier to pull the engine than to do it in the vehicle.

Hi.

I will start with the engine in and see how bad it will be 😁. There is still time enough before spring

Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

I will start with the engine in and see how bad it will be 😁. There is still time enough before spring

Greetings Stein

Good luck! Maybe you'll find a trick that will make it easier.

[mat in tn]

Good luck! Maybe you'll find a trick that will make it easier.

it is far easier with the engine out. trying to replace in place will take near surgical precision and nothing is easy to get to. either way there is much to remove to get the good access whether to drop the pan or lift the engine. where is it leaking is the biggest question for me. that may lead to needing to pull the engine anyway.

[firefire]

it is far easier with the engine out. trying to replace in place will take near surgical precision and nothing is easy to get to. either way there is much to remove to get the good access whether to drop the pan or lift the engine. where is it leaking is the biggest question for me. that may lead to needing to pull the engine anyway.

Hi.

Here the weather is shifting , as usual, between rain and snow.

But there is still more to do with Eddie. Got the freshly painted drums back on. I was a little surprised over how much the adjuster had to be opened to get the bands touching the drums. At least an 1/2". Did not have any brake fluid. So bleading the brakes will be later.

Then I started on the oil pan. To get the oil pan down I removed the Y-pipe, the alternator and its bracket to get the lines for the oil cooler free ( will also replace the ground wire between engine and battery ), drained the oil pan. Then it is possible to reach all screws holding the oil pan. But I admit it is not easy. Then I realised ( as I suspected but hoped not would be so ) there is to little space between engine and oil pan to in any effective way clean off the old cork seal. It sat surprisingly hard several places.

So my advice is to lift the engine up off its mounts before starting on the pan. Then I had to take off the air filter, the return hose for the power steering pump, the right side exhaust manifold ( the Bassani is much bigger than the original). I used a jack under the oil pan and lifted the engine about 30 mm up from its left mount. It was less on the right side. Put wood blocks between engine mounts and frame. That gave me about 4" more clearence under the front of the engine. Now I had usable acces to the oil pan. The left side was the easiest. The right side was more difficult. I used a knife but I think a small paint scraper would be better. The innards. I drilled the heads off ( 5mm) and the dip stick mount came off. My plan is to replace the rivets with bolts.This is how it looks now. Lock the bolts with thread locking, Locktite ? Welding ? Should I use a gasket with sealer or mabe sealer only when mounting this back on ? Some considerations to do before assembly. Still have to clean the oil pan a little better before mounting. Have a Felpro one-piece gasket ready.

Greetings Stein.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

Here the weather is shifting , as usual, between rain and snow.

But there is still more to do with Eddie. Got the freshly painted drums back on. I was a little surprised over how much the adjuster had to be opened to get the bands touching the drums. At least an 1/2". Did not have any brake fluid. So bleading the brakes will be later.

Then I started on the oil pan. To get the oil pan down I removed the Y-pipe, the alternator and its bracket to get the lines for the oil cooler free ( will also replace the ground wire between engine and battery ), drained the oil pan. Then it is possible to reach all screws holding the oil pan. But I admit it is not easy. Then I realised ( as I suspected but hoped not would be so ) there is to little space between engine and oil pan to in any effective way clean off the old cork seal. It sat surprisingly hard several places.

So my advice is to lift the engine up off its mounts before starting on the pan. Then I had to take off the air filter, the return hose for the power steering pump, the right side exhaust manifold ( the Bassani is much bigger than the original). I used a jack under the oil pan and lifted the engine about 30 mm up from its left mount. It was less on the right side. Put wood blocks between engine mounts and frame. That gave me about 4" more clearence under the front of the engine. Now I had usable acces to the oil pan. The left side was the easiest. The right side was more difficult. I used a knife but I think a small paint scraper would be better. The innards. I drilled the heads off ( 5mm) and the dip stick mount came off. My plan is to replace the rivets with bolts.This is how it looks now. Lock the bolts with thread locking, Locktite ? Welding ? Should I use a gasket with sealer or mabe sealer only when mounting this back on ? Some considerations to do before assembly. Still have to clean the oil pan a little better before mounting. Have a Felpro one-piece gasket ready.

Greetings Stein.

Yup, yup, and yup.

Yup, there is no room to remove the pan w/o lifting the engine.

Yup, blocks to hold the engine up are highly recommended if you like your fingers.

And yup, use Loctite on the nuts! I used The Right Stuff for installing that fitting on one pan, either Dad's or Big Blue's, I don't remember which. But it worked.