ArdWrknTrk Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Hi. Will the Demon fit ? First removing the original carburetor. The evaporator system from the carburetor must go. The evaporator system for the tank with canister I will try to keep. The EGR plate is kept.Needed to mount the Demon. Dont know if its possible to make the EGR work. Had to use the thick gasket for the original carburetor along also to get clearance for the vacuum port at the back of the Demon. Next I cut off the lower part of throttle connection on the carburetor and mangled the Heat Vacuum Control Valve since it collided with the operation of the throttle. The heat control valve is also gone. Then I could mount the Demon. On the fourth try the engine started and ran nice at 750 rpm. Have not tried to drive Eddie yet. When I give him suddenly full throttle, he back fires and dies. When more softly no problem. Today I will check vacuum, the ported vacuum for the distributor and timing. It sounds like your accelerator pump needs adjustment (or isn't working at all) With the engine off and looking down the front venturis do you see a strong squirt of fuel in each side if you quickly operate the throttle with your hand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 It sounds like your accelerator pump needs adjustment (or isn't working at all) With the engine off and looking down the front venturis do you see a strong squirt of fuel in each side if you quickly operate the throttle with your hand? Hi. Have not checked the accelerator pumps function. Today I mounted the air cleaner that came with the kit. The engine ran better than yesterday. But the timing was incorrect since the Demon had 0 ported vacuum at idle. Which is correct. Ported vacuum was 0 at idle, 13hg at 1500rpm, 20hg at 2000 rpm. The engine was actually idling at 2 degrees after TDC. Turned the distributer to 8 degrees before TDC. Adjusted the vacuum valve at the distributer to start moving at 4 HG, reaches max movement at 15 HG. Have no clue what it should be. Maybe its a little late adjustment. Checked for manifold vacuum. Adjusted idle screw to 600 rpm, vacuum is 19HG. Have not touched idle mixture screws. Engine runs very nice, and no hesitation or problems with sudden full throttle. But when things look good, something bad must happen. The last time I tried a quick full throttle the gas hang up on me. For maybe 2 seconds the engine ran at 6000 rpms. Stopped it with turning off the ignition. This carburetor has a link for Ford kickdown. This link had at the rear most position locked the throttle from returning to idle. Idle position The " fix " Will connect the kickdown lever later. But maybe this is something Holley should look into. When I started the engine afterwards it sounded and ran like normal. Really hope I have not damaged it. The needle in the tachograf is stuck at 6000 rpms. It will not return to 0. Is it broken ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Hi. Have not checked the accelerator pumps function. Today I mounted the air cleaner that came with the kit. The engine ran better than yesterday. But the timing was incorrect since the Demon had 0 ported vacuum at idle. Which is correct. Ported vacuum was 0 at idle, 13hg at 1500rpm, 20hg at 2000 rpm. The engine was actually idling at 2 degrees after TDC. Turned the distributer to 8 degrees before TDC. Adjusted the vacuum valve at the distributer to start moving at 4 HG, reaches max movement at 15 HG. Have no clue what it should be. Maybe its a little late adjustment. Checked for manifold vacuum. Adjusted idle screw to 600 rpm, vacuum is 19HG. Have not touched idle mixture screws. Engine runs very nice, and no hesitation or problems with sudden full throttle. But when things look good, something bad must happen. The last time I tried a quick full throttle the gas hang up on me. For maybe 2 seconds the engine ran at 6000 rpms. Stopped it with turning off the ignition. This carburetor has a link for Ford kickdown. This link had at the rear most position locked the throttle from returning to idle. Idle position The " fix " Will connect the kickdown lever later. But maybe this is something Holley should look into. When I started the engine afterwards it sounded and ran like normal. Really hope I have not damaged it. The needle in the tachograf is stuck at 6000 rpms. It will not return to 0. Is it broken ? Hi. Seems that Eddie has not suffered any harm from the high revs. Have taken him out for several tests. Luckily the tachograph zeroed it self and now works like normal. The engine runs very nice at 600 rpms at idle. When shifting in to D or R , the idle is not affected at all. Same when AC kicks on. Have removed throttle kicker. Do not see the point of it. Installed a sort of gas pedal stop. To prevent pulling to much on the throttle linkage on the Demon at wot. And since I had this bad experience with the kick down link, I cut it away. First I tried to connect the kick down to the transmission. But with it connected I could not get full throttle, wot. I will manage without. Lots of crazy stuff here. In a try to keep the canister for fuel vapor working I connected the vacuum signal hose for the purge valve with a T to the distributor ported vacuum line. And connected the gas vapor hose from the purge valve to a vacuum intake at the manifold. Then I went out for a ride. And I could not detect any effect on the carburetors performance. So hopefully the gas evaporation system for the fuel tank will work. Thanks for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Hi. Seems that Eddie has not suffered any harm from the high revs. Have taken him out for several tests. Luckily the tachograph zeroed it self and now works like normal. The engine runs very nice at 600 rpms at idle. When shifting in to D or R , the idle is not affected at all. Same when AC kicks on. Have removed throttle kicker. Do not see the point of it. Installed a sort of gas pedal stop. To prevent pulling to much on the throttle linkage on the Demon at wot. And since I had this bad experience with the kick down link, I cut it away. First I tried to connect the kick down to the transmission. But with it connected I could not get full throttle, wot. I will manage without. Lots of crazy stuff here. In a try to keep the canister for fuel vapor working I connected the vacuum signal hose for the purge valve with a T to the distributor ported vacuum line. And connected the gas vapor hose from the purge valve to a vacuum intake at the manifold. Then I went out for a ride. And I could not detect any effect on the carburetors performance. So hopefully the gas evaporation system for the fuel tank will work. Thanks for now. I'm glad the engine wasn't hurt! How do you like that carb. I have one of them on the shelf and should really try it in place of the Edelbrock that's on the truck. How is it working for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 I'm glad the engine wasn't hurt! How do you like that carb. I have one of them on the shelf and should really try it in place of the Edelbrock that's on the truck. How is it working for you? Hi. I am no expert on carburetors. What I like most is how well the engine runs. As soon as it got fuel the engine started right up. And with correct timing it runs super. My issues on installing is of course due to my 1986 intake/ emission system. It is lower and wider than the stock carburetor. One warning is to be aware of how the kick down lever can lock up the carburetor. That is if you leave it on its own. There is a warning about this in the manual. But it is a construction flaw . It cant happen on the original. The build quality looks good enough. The polished finish and black fuel bowl looks nice. It has not turned the Bronco into a race car though 😀. But the engine runs very well. I will say , give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Hi. I am no expert on carburetors. What I like most is how well the engine runs. As soon as it got fuel the engine started right up. And with correct timing it runs super. My issues on installing is of course due to my 1986 intake/ emission system. It is lower and wider than the stock carburetor. One warning is to be aware of how the kick down lever can lock up the carburetor. That is if you leave it on its own. There is a warning about this in the manual. But it is a construction flaw . It cant happen on the original. The build quality looks good enough. The polished finish and black fuel bowl looks nice. It has not turned the Bronco into a race car though 😀. But the engine runs very well. I will say , give it a try. Glad to hear that the engine runs so well. I'm not looking for a race car, or even a race truck. Just one that runs well. I'll give it a try. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 Glad to hear that the engine runs so well. I'm not looking for a race car, or even a race truck. Just one that runs well. I'll give it a try. Thanks! Hi. Good luck Gary. What truck is it for ? Did some small stuff today. Tried to scrape / beat the rust inside at the back away. The tools Then treated it 2 times with Brunox. Will beat it flat again after 3 dose of Brunox. Hopefully it will stall the rust for some time. I put in new ignition module, modulator, and 1996 model wiper arms.All these parts worked now. But hopefully new parts are more reliable. I changed the wiper arms because the original ones sat to high on the windscreen for my liking. Then there is a picture of a tool that would have saved me from countless destroyed screw heads the last 40 years:nabble_smiley_cry: A screwdriver maschine with hammer function:nabble_anim_jump: Greetings Stein. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Hi. Good luck Gary. What truck is it for ? Did some small stuff today. Tried to scrape / beat the rust inside at the back away. The tools Then treated it 2 times with Brunox. Will beat it flat again after 3 dose of Brunox. Hopefully it will stall the rust for some time. I put in new ignition module, modulator, and 1996 model wiper arms.All these parts worked now. But hopefully new parts are more reliable. I changed the wiper arms because the original ones sat to high on the windscreen for my liking. Then there is a picture of a tool that would have saved me from countless destroyed screw heads the last 40 years:nabble_smiley_cry: A screwdriver maschine with hammer function:nabble_anim_jump: Greetings Stein. The truck is Big Blue, my '85 F250 w/a 460. It is to get EFI this winter, so I won't be running the carb long, but I do want to test that Street Demon carb. I hope that treatment stops the rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 The truck is Big Blue, my '85 F250 w/a 460. It is to get EFI this winter, so I won't be running the carb long, but I do want to test that Street Demon carb. I hope that treatment stops the rust! Hi. Took Eddie to work today and for a ride this evening. What a difference a new ignition module and modulator did😁. He was much quicker and changed gears in a much more positive way. Accelerated longer and faster in each gear. Much better performance than before👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Hi. Took Eddie to work today and for a ride this evening. What a difference a new ignition module and modulator did😁. He was much quicker and changed gears in a much more positive way. Accelerated longer and faster in each gear. Much better performance than before👍 Congrat's!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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