Fixing Eddie

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks . Since the alternator has been making a hizzing/ growling sound I got it out for a check. Only 3 screws to split it. Filled the rear bearing with new grease.Polished the rotor lightlyPutting the brushes back on. Drill out the threads for the tensioner screw and use ordinary bolt and and nut. Much easier to work with than the original set up. And my spare alternator was of course with another kind of connection:nabble_smiley_oh: But the old one is good now. No more hizzing / growling sound from it. Otherwise I tried some carburator adjustment. Voodoo to me Problem 1: After starting cold, even at high revs, engine dies when put in R or D. There is not enough power. After engine gets hotter, no problem. Problem 2 : Will not idle below 800 revs.

Today I adjusted the first throttle plates to a more closed position. Now I could make the engine idle ok between 6-700 rpm. With screwing the 2 front idle screws a bit in. Think the engine also responds better to the gas pedal. Since I still doesnt have any license plates, all my driving has been only in front of my garage. So very limited testing. But still want to stop when put in R or D when cold. I know this is nearly impossible to analyse. But do you readers have an idea ?

Well, thanks for today.

On the alternator, it was just the rear needle bearing that was growling? And lubing it solved it? Wow! I'd have bet the needles were bad. Hope it holds for you.

As for the carb, it seems like you got the idle problem resolved. By backing out the idle stop screw, which allowed the throttle blades to close some you lowered the RPM. And by adjusting the two screws in the front, which adjust the air/fuel mix, in a bit you got it to idle better and take the throttle better.

But it still won't run when you drop it in D or R until it is warm. And that's surely because you need a bit more choke. Make note of where the index is sitting on the black choke housing, and then loosen the three screws that hold it onto the carb. Then turn it two notches in the direction that closes the choke plate, which I think is clockwise - but I could be wrong. Snug the screws up and test that.

[firefire]

On the alternator, it was just the rear needle bearing that was growling? And lubing it solved it? Wow! I'd have bet the needles were bad. Hope it holds for you.

As for the carb, it seems like you got the idle problem resolved. By backing out the idle stop screw, which allowed the throttle blades to close some you lowered the RPM. And by adjusting the two screws in the front, which adjust the air/fuel mix, in a bit you got it to idle better and take the throttle better.

But it still won't run when you drop it in D or R until it is warm. And that's surely because you need a bit more choke. Make note of where the index is sitting on the black choke housing, and then loosen the three screws that hold it onto the carb. Then turn it two notches in the direction that closes the choke plate, which I think is clockwise - but I could be wrong. Snug the screws up and test that.

Thanks Gary for your input. It was a little to much to call the noise from the alternator growling:nabble_smiley_blush:More like a low whining , a dry bearing. The needles were fine. Thanks for advice about choke. Mine is another version that you cant turn like you described.This evening I tried to check the function of the choke. Pressed the gas pedal 2 times to the floor. Choke blade closed, green cam turned to high idle. But the idle was low. Engine stopped.Next photo is engine stopped in resting position. Note distance from trottle kicker to gas mechanism.Then pressed gas pedal and choke closed. Distance to throttle kicker increased, means more gas.Engine runs poorly around 1000 rpms and stopps.Then I by hand pushes the gas all the way to the end. Kick down. Starts engine and suddenly the throttle kicker comes into actionAir condition off. Higher idle.After a while the choke opens up a little. Idle gets a little lower. Runs in D. After a minute kicker retracts more and engine runs at idleAnd in D. Wonder if I didnt depress the gas pedal good enough first time I tried. There is a thick carpet and a rubber mat under the gas pedal. And I pressed it in only by hand. Have to repeat the test tomorrow.After a warm weekend its back to refrigerator temperaturs outdoors again.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary for your input. It was a little to much to call the noise from the alternator growling:nabble_smiley_blush:More like a low whining , a dry bearing. The needles were fine. Thanks for advice about choke. Mine is another version that you cant turn like you described.This evening I tried to check the function of the choke. Pressed the gas pedal 2 times to the floor. Choke blade closed, green cam turned to high idle. But the idle was low. Engine stopped.Next photo is engine stopped in resting position. Note distance from trottle kicker to gas mechanism.Then pressed gas pedal and choke closed. Distance to throttle kicker increased, means more gas.Engine runs poorly around 1000 rpms and stopps.Then I by hand pushes the gas all the way to the end. Kick down. Starts engine and suddenly the throttle kicker comes into actionAir condition off. Higher idle.After a while the choke opens up a little. Idle gets a little lower. Runs in D. After a minute kicker retracts more and engine runs at idleAnd in D. Wonder if I didnt depress the gas pedal good enough first time I tried. There is a thick carpet and a rubber mat under the gas pedal. And I pressed it in only by hand. Have to repeat the test tomorrow.After a warm weekend its back to refrigerator temperaturs outdoors again.

I'm confused. Your truck should have the Holley 4180-C and it should have an adjustable choke. However, it probably has rivets in place of the screws that have to be drilled out and then screws put in place of the rivets.

A very thorough pair of instruction documents are available on this page: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Holley 4180-C and then the Ford Service Manuals tab. They talk about adjusting the choke pull-down, which opens the choke up with vacuum, and the fast idle cam but not the choke itself as that was a no-no for emissions purposes. But it seems to me that yours needs to be adjusted. However, lets see what others have to say.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm confused. Your truck should have the Holley 4180-C and it should have an adjustable choke. However, it probably has rivets in place of the screws that have to be drilled out and then screws put in place of the rivets.

A very thorough pair of instruction documents are available on this page: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Holley 4180-C and then the Ford Service Manuals tab. They talk about adjusting the choke pull-down, which opens the choke up with vacuum, and the fast idle cam but not the choke itself as that was a no-no for emissions purposes. But it seems to me that yours needs to be adjusted. However, lets see what others have to say.

I can definitely see that at least the top screw on his 4180 cap retainer has been replaced.

Superimposed over the black line....

Zoom in on the left side and you can see it is a slotted cheese head or pan head screw and not the conical nub left after the breakaway tamper-proof screw is installed at the factory.

With these carbs there is a little nub on the mating surface of the choke coil that will only allow it to turn a few degrees.

It's easy enough to file that locating nub down, but first make a mark across the scales so you can have that as a baseline.

Then go ahead and completely remove the three screws and the heating element/cap.

While it is removed you can see the pulloff inside.

[Gary Lewis]

I can definitely see that at least the top screw on his 4180 cap retainer has been replaced.

Superimposed over the black line....

Zoom in on the left side and you can see it is a slotted cheese head or pan head screw and not the conical nub left after the breakaway tamper-proof screw is installed at the factory.

With these carbs there is a little nub on the mating surface of the choke coil that will only allow it to turn a few degrees.

It's easy enough to file that locating nub down, but first make a mark across the scales so you can have that as a baseline.

Then go ahead and completely remove the three screws and the heating element/cap.

While it is removed you can see the pulloff inside.

Good eye, Jim. I missed that, but you are right. I can even see the slot.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Even eye can see the slot....

 

[Gary Lewis]

Even eye can see the slot....

[firefire]

Hi. You are right about the choke have being opened previously. First time not by me, but I looked in there at Christmas when I overhauled the carberator. The choke seems to work as it shall, closing and turning the fast idle cam in position when I press the gas pedal to the floor. But it doesnt idle fast when I start it. I have probably turned the fast idle screw to far out when I tried to close the throttle blades.When engine runs there is 14,4V on the electric assist on the choke termostat. I will look at it tomorrow. Today I tried the throttle kicker version again. Sort of false choke. I press the gas arm all the way to maximum gas once before starting. Then the throttle kicker comes into action. Engine runs at around 1200 rpm. After maybe 2 minutes the throttle kicker retracts and the engine runs at normal idle. But what triggers the throttle kicker:nabble_anim_confused:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi. You are right about the choke have being opened previously. First time not by me, but I looked in there at Christmas when I overhauled the carberator. The choke seems to work as it shall, closing and turning the fast idle cam in position when I press the gas pedal to the floor. But it doesnt idle fast when I start it. I have probably turned the fast idle screw to far out when I tried to close the throttle blades.When engine runs there is 14,4V on the electric assist on the choke termostat. I will look at it tomorrow. Today I tried the throttle kicker version again. Sort of false choke. I press the gas arm all the way to maximum gas once before starting. Then the throttle kicker comes into action. Engine runs at around 1200 rpm. After maybe 2 minutes the throttle kicker retracts and the engine runs at normal idle. But what triggers the throttle kicker:nabble_anim_confused:

If it is like the one that came on my 4180-c it is just a simple dashpot.

A diaphragm inside pulls the pin out, and only bleeds off slowly.

This is more to prevent the throttle plate from slamming shut.

But my truck did not come with Air Conditioning or Speed Control so each of these applications might call for different components.

[Gary Lewis]

If it is like the one that came on my 4180-c it is just a simple dashpot.

A diaphragm inside pulls the pin out, and only bleeds off slowly.

This is more to prevent the throttle plate from slamming shut.

But my truck did not come with Air Conditioning or Speed Control so each of these applications might call for different components.

The 1986 EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM/Carburetor Circuits) has info on this, but it is CONFUSING! The first page, shown below, says it is for Broncos sold in Canada. The second page says it is for 5.8L engines in F150s and F250s sold in the 49 states. But doesn't include Broncos.

So your question of "what triggers the throttle kicker" is hard to answer. So let's first make sure we are talking about the same piece of gear. There are two solenoids, the Throttle Position Solenoid, which has one wire to it and that wire is black, and the Decel Throttle Kicker Solenoid, which has red/yellow and a tan/white wires to it. Which one(s) do you have? And which one are you asking about?