Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

Hi.

I imported this 1986 Bronco from Colorado to Norway two months ago. Though the seller said it was in excellent condition, it has its flaws. So before I can get it checked, approved and registered in the spring I have to fix it up. Most important is issues related to safety and reliabillity. Second, personal preferences But the Bronco took me from the harbor in Drammen ( south Norway) to Skodje ( west coast ) without any serious problems. An 8 hour drive. So far I have replaced all tie rods. They were shot. The fuel pump. Got 2 Carter pumps where the pump lever did not return fully. The first got the return spring for the lever stuck, ( tried it before installing) and the second did not return the last 10 mm. Mounted it, and it made a ticking sound as it hit the cam in the engine. The third was Delphi , which was good.Thanks to RockAuto, who replaced these pumps at no charge. New stabilizer bar bushings at front. New pistons and seals in brake calipers, front. Pumped through 2 bottles of brake fluid , front and rear. Replaced leaking hoses for transmission oil cooler.Accelerator pump leaking gas, due broken threads for one screw. Rethreaded for 5 mm screw. Taken out the carburator for cleaning, new seals. Now its out again since there was no vacuum at the EGR port. Which is the tiny pipe sticking upwards beside the choke. Had to split the carburator to clean up the almost invisible hole down in the carburator.

This is ported vacuum. The other one is were your distributor is normally hooked up. Another tiny hole beside the other idle needle. Now I am waiting for a new gasket for the egr plate under the carburator. It was of course broken. Had to drill out the soot inside the pipe for the egr. Almost blocked. Have removed the smog pump and its pipeline. The evap system did not work. Stripped it down to one canister. Will probably work now when I found a purge valve that was ok. And fixing the ported vacuum. New temp. ( water temp )sensing valves for the vacuum system. The vacuum system is really complex. And it takes some time and effort to understand. Got the throttle kicker, heat valve system to work. Got to get the carburator back on so I can start the engine again. Its hard to remember everything.... I got oil leaking out of the oil pan, where the dipstick enters.Solutions ? Oil leaking from the oil pan gasket at the rear of the engine. Take the pan down , new gasket ? Have tightened the bolts, but it will probably not help. I now I will find more as I work my way through the truck. Will post some pictures later.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wow, that's quite a list.

You've obviously taken care of years of neglect.

The vacuum systems were complex, because there was no other implementation of 'logic' back then.

Vacuum can be used to monitor throttle position, load, or change the ignition timing.

It can be ported with temperature dependant switches to control inlet air temperature or within the ventilation/climate control ductwork to modulate doors that direct heat and cold.

It can be bled through an orifice to act as a timer.

The oil pan is problematic.

It's near impossible to remove in a 4x4 vehicle.

Though you could -probably- install a new multi-piece gasket in situ without completely removing it.

Those bolts up inside the front crossmember are a bear.

[1986F150Six]

Wow, that's quite a list.

You've obviously taken care of years of neglect.

The vacuum systems were complex, because there was no other implementation of 'logic' back then.

Vacuum can be used to monitor throttle position, load, or change the ignition timing.

It can be ported with temperature dependant switches to control inlet air temperature or within the ventilation/climate control ductwork to modulate doors that direct heat and cold.

It can be bled through an orifice to act as a timer.

The oil pan is problematic.

It's near impossible to remove in a 4x4 vehicle.

Though you could -probably- install a new multi-piece gasket in situ without completely removing it.

Those bolts up inside the front crossmember are a bear.

Welcome, firefire!

[Gary Lewis]

Wow, that's quite a list.

You've obviously taken care of years of neglect.

The vacuum systems were complex, because there was no other implementation of 'logic' back then.

Vacuum can be used to monitor throttle position, load, or change the ignition timing.

It can be ported with temperature dependant switches to control inlet air temperature or within the ventilation/climate control ductwork to modulate doors that direct heat and cold.

It can be bled through an orifice to act as a timer.

The oil pan is problematic.

It's near impossible to remove in a 4x4 vehicle.

Though you could -probably- install a new multi-piece gasket in situ without completely removing it.

Those bolts up inside the front crossmember are a bear.

I agree with Jim, replacing the pan gasket in the vehicle is REALLY difficult. I've done it and vowed to never ever do it again. But it was best said by a guy on FTE, who said something like "If I ever decide to replace the pan gasket in the truck again I'll just pour gas on the truck and light it first." My sentiments exactly.

What emissions testing do you have in Norway? What tests will the truck have to pass?

[firefire]

I agree with Jim, replacing the pan gasket in the vehicle is REALLY difficult. I've done it and vowed to never ever do it again. But it was best said by a guy on FTE, who said something like "If I ever decide to replace the pan gasket in the truck again I'll just pour gas on the truck and light it first." My sentiments exactly.

What emissions testing do you have in Norway? What tests will the truck have to pass?

Hi.

The gasket I am waiting for will be here over the weekend.

The Bronco has to meet emission values set for 1986. If they will test is not certain. A value of 4,5% CO at idle. Then it is of course brakes, lights, rust, steering, suspension, documents. Luckily we can now keep the original american lights. A car older than 30 years have to be checked like this every 5 years. I will get help from Amcar of Norway with all necessary documents. I have the original Title, which is very important. And I have found the VIN number on the frame :). Newer cars are tested every second year. It is very much the same all over Europe. The EU sets the standard for most things in Norway too. Even we are not members. Its much about trade agreements, free flow of people.

Thats it for now. Its been well under freezing point this week, but now a little storm is approching with a little warmer weather. Sleet or rain ....

 

[firefire]

Hi.

The gasket I am waiting for will be here over the weekend.

The Bronco has to meet emission values set for 1986. If they will test is not certain. A value of 4,5% CO at idle. Then it is of course brakes, lights, rust, steering, suspension, documents. Luckily we can now keep the original american lights. A car older than 30 years have to be checked like this every 5 years. I will get help from Amcar of Norway with all necessary documents. I have the original Title, which is very important. And I have found the VIN number on the frame :). Newer cars are tested every second year. It is very much the same all over Europe. The EU sets the standard for most things in Norway too. Even we are not members. Its much about trade agreements, free flow of people.

Thats it for now. Its been well under freezing point this week, but now a little storm is approching with a little warmer weather. Sleet or rain ....

My comments to the pictures are missing.First 2 pictures of clogged and cleaned pipe in egr block. Under carburator. Than oil leaks. Ported vacuum hole for EGR in carburator. Than opened purge valve.Pipe "3" connects to your egr block under the carburator. Pipe "3" had crack inside the valve. See spit when i blew in at same time closing pipe with fingertip. Probably result in engine sucking in gas fumes and air from evap canister all time it was running. Which is wrong. Pipe "2" is connected to canister. Pipe "1" is to ported vacuum, same as EGR, will suck spring loaded diagram away from from "3". To allow gas fumes from "2" to enter pipe"3" and intake under carburator. Only when cruising and also when engine has reached the a temperature.

[ArdWrknTrk]

My comments to the pictures are missing.First 2 pictures of clogged and cleaned pipe in egr block. Under carburator. Than oil leaks. Ported vacuum hole for EGR in carburator. Than opened purge valve.Pipe "3" connects to your egr block under the carburator. Pipe "3" had crack inside the valve. See spit when i blew in at same time closing pipe with fingertip. Probably result in engine sucking in gas fumes and air from evap canister all time it was running. Which is wrong. Pipe "2" is connected to canister. Pipe "1" is to ported vacuum, same as EGR, will suck spring loaded diagram away from from "3". To allow gas fumes from "2" to enter pipe"3" and intake under carburator. Only when cruising and also when engine has reached the a temperature.

Unfortunately comments don't accompany photos on this forum.

But I do see them in the email notification of your post.

Are you able to source the new EEC valves there in Norway?

Can your importer help with this?

I'm glad you have the title and VIN for your truck.

There is a company here in America that maintains archives of all the old Ford documentation.

If you need something 'official' like a build sheet, Marti Auto in Arizona can supply a 'report' with all the factual information about your particular Ford vehicle (where it was sold, the date it was built, etc, etc)

[firefire]

Unfortunately comments don't accompany photos on this forum.

But I do see them in the email notification of your post.

Are you able to source the new EEC valves there in Norway?

Can your importer help with this?

I'm glad you have the title and VIN for your truck.

There is a company here in America that maintains archives of all the old Ford documentation.

If you need something 'official' like a build sheet, Marti Auto in Arizona can supply a 'report' with all the factual information about your particular Ford vehicle (where it was sold, the date it was built, etc, etc)

Hi.

98 % of the parts I buy is from US dealers. They have an incredible offer of parts. The shipping costs is reasonable too. I have tried to seal the leak in the purge valve. See photo. There is also a photo of a Vacuum Delay Valve. The valve was mounted on the ported vacuum line to the Purge Valve. Which way should it be mounted, and what is its purpose ? You can only suck air through it from one side, marked "dist". Natural for me would be black side " carb" towards Purge Valve. But they were mounted the other way.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi.

98 % of the parts I buy is from US dealers. They have an incredible offer of parts. The shipping costs is reasonable too. I have tried to seal the leak in the purge valve. See photo. There is also a photo of a Vacuum Delay Valve. The valve was mounted on the ported vacuum line to the Purge Valve. Which way should it be mounted, and what is its purpose ? You can only suck air through it from one side, marked "dist". Natural for me would be black side " carb" towards Purge Valve. But they were mounted the other way.

I think it was mounted correctly.

It is a delay valve, so it takes time under vacuum to develop any suction on the other side but should release vacuum almost immediately.

We have here some discussion of the different colours, their activation thresholds and amount of restriction

[firefire]

I think it was mounted correctly.

It is a delay valve, so it takes time under vacuum to develop any suction on the other side but should release vacuum almost immediately.

We have here some discussion of the different colours, their activation thresholds and amount of restriction

Hi.

Yes, I think you are right about which way they shall be mounted. I don`t have a vacuum pump, and I don`t manage to suck through them with my mouth. And I really suck hard. My wife says I smell/taste gasolin, wonder why . Next stepp is getting the carburator back on, so I can test for vacuum at the EGR vacuum port.