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GOOD GUY'S GARAGE


Ray Cecil

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If you are looking for concurrence, YES you need a backup truck! :nabble_smiley_evil:

Go check what I just posted in the ebay/craigslist finds....I am searching...

A backup is a good idea. My Bronco backs up my truck, my wifes Suburban and my sons Mazda 626, when the snow gets deep, he likes the Bronc in the snow!

Hmmm...perhaps another back up is in order. :nabble_anim_confused:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys,

The garage floor has taken a step forward today. I ordered one of these sawmills instead of spending money on concrete. There is enough trees in my area, and enough folks who will let me take their trees and cut them up. I'm going to mess around with this sawmill awhile and see if I can make my own pavers out of solid wood. I'm targeting Black Locust or Eastern Red Cedars for the floor. I'll probably make 2"-4" thick slabs of wood as long and as wide as I can for the floor. Each end of the slab/board will have a single hole, with a 10" long piece of rebar pounded into it and holding the board to the subsoil.

10-15-2018_10-36-03_AM.jpg.184c8f71ff0858c5ede8b16078f44e3b.jpg

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Guys,

The garage floor has taken a step forward today. I ordered one of these sawmills instead of spending money on concrete. There is enough trees in my area, and enough folks who will let me take their trees and cut them up. I'm going to mess around with this sawmill awhile and see if I can make my own pavers out of solid wood. I'm targeting Black Locust or Eastern Red Cedars for the floor. I'll probably make 2"-4" thick slabs of wood as long and as wide as I can for the floor. Each end of the slab/board will have a single hole, with a 10" long piece of rebar pounded into it and holding the board to the subsoil.

Keep us posted. (Get it? Post = wood. :nabble_smiley_oh:)

Anyway, that looks like an interesting approach. No finish on the wood? If not, the oil, brake fluid, et al will soak in and give it patina. But it won't hurt it.

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Keep us posted. (Get it? Post = wood. :nabble_smiley_oh:)

Anyway, that looks like an interesting approach. No finish on the wood? If not, the oil, brake fluid, et al will soak in and give it patina. But it won't hurt it.

Hey Gary...yeah I am not sure just yet on the finish. My approach is to use a large mat of some type directly under the lift when working on things that I know I will spill no matter how hard I try not to.

Staining it with a clear might give it a nice wet look. I don't know yet.

I do have three 2x8's that I have used on my lift between the skids since we got it. They have "patina". I bet they would burn like a candle it I tried to light one of them...years of oil changes and tranny fluid soaked in. They'll never rot.

By the way...that 2x8 spans about 3 feet between the skids. It lays wide side down. Would you believe me if I told you I lifted my 99 silverado from that board with a floor jack? It was bending....but I just got the tires off the lift...I was just messing around seeing if I could break that board. I was amazed I could lift the engine side of that truck on a 2x8 laying wide side down....I think a dry board would have snapped a lot faster.

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Keep us posted. (Get it? Post = wood. :nabble_smiley_oh:)

Anyway, that looks like an interesting approach. No finish on the wood? If not, the oil, brake fluid, et al will soak in and give it patina. But it won't hurt it.

At least for the next month I will be focused on pretending to be a lumber jack with that new fancy mill coming....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a few days.....cause I bought a saw mill!!

So here is the latest design on the floor. Still not 100% on the approach, but the guys at the ForestryForum have been helping me design it with their experiences with doing wooden floors. Its shiplap boards, on top of 1"x8" sleepers to screw to. The green layer is 1" EPS foam they put under concrete. There is a 1" layer under the sleepers, and in between the sleepers. This serves as a moisture barrier, and is lessens the condensation effect if the floor is cold and the air above it turns warm and moist. Shrinkage and swelling are a big factor in wood floors, especially in a pole barn. So taking the proper steps to limit moisture in the wood is critical to a decent service life.

Speaking of service life, I am in no way expecting to get the same life out of it as concrete. This is purely a "for fun" project. I'm not using T&G because I cannot pull up a damaged T&G floor board in the middle of the floor. Shiplap I can pull up and replace boards easily.

Now, with the mill, a place to air dry boards, and a brand new table saw and brand new planer, I've got what I need to attack this project. It'll be awesome when complete!

shiplapwithsleepers.jpg.10296ef96dbc712e62042228c763a237.jpg

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