ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 90 degree drills are the only tool for certain jobs and the rest of the time they sit in the toolbox sad and lonely. But when you need them, nothing else works. They can be hard to get good leverage on because youre not pushing through the bit like on a regular drill and you can end up going in at bad angles. So it helps to take some extra time to make sure youre getting your bit or extractor lined up really well before you really dig in. Sioux drills are not quite 90* but their bowling pin shape and paddle speed control make them excellent close quarters drills. Left hand cobalt bits are also a lifesaver. But if access is poor do not use the small ones. Cobalt is too brittle for any meaningful side load. Once you get past 3/16 or so you should be okay. They seem to stay sharp longer, and are hard enough to bite. Go slow, use plenty of pressure, and lubricant if you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Sioux drills are not quite 90* but their bowling pin shape and paddle speed control make them excellent close quarters drills. Left hand cobalt bits are also a lifesaver. But if access is poor do not use the small ones. Cobalt is too brittle for any meaningful side load. Once you get past 3/16 or so you should be okay. They seem to stay sharp longer, and are hard enough to bite. Go slow, use plenty of pressure, and lubricant if you can. Well, I guess I'm old and the Sioux 8000 is no more. Damn fine little drills they were. Much better ergonomics than trying to wrestle a 90* attachment, and a regular style drill. The not quite 90 is about the same angle you can hold your hand back from your forearm, so it works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 Well, I guess I'm old and the Sioux 8000 is no more. Damn fine little drills they were. Much better ergonomics than trying to wrestle a 90* attachment, and a regular style drill. The not quite 90 is about the same angle you can hold your hand back from your forearm, so it works well. I wish i had one of those Jim. I remember them now them i see it. The only thing small enough i could find was the Dewalt that i have a link for, but the reviews are so so bad, in particular the batteries. I hope the 90 that i bought will do the job. We are going to try the EZ out thing first, then if that fails, tap it. Everything should be in by thursday, so its back to driving the vic. I cant believe we've come this far, and a broken bolt has stopped Brutus dead in his tracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 I wish i had one of those Jim. I remember them now them i see it. The only thing small enough i could find was the Dewalt that i have a link for, but the reviews are so so bad, in particular the batteries. I hope the 90 that i bought will do the job. We are going to try the EZ out thing first, then if that fails, tap it. Everything should be in by thursday, so its back to driving the vic. I cant believe we've come this far, and a broken bolt has stopped Brutus dead in his tracks. Eddie's plaque should be on the wall of every garage. Many times I wish I had one of those to point to when someone is pestering me about why I'm taking my time with something. Be sure to use the self adhesive gasket to hold the thermostat in place this time, okay George? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Eddie's plaque should be on the wall of every garage. Many times I wish I had one of those to point to when someone is pestering me about why I'm taking my time with something. Be sure to use the self adhesive gasket to hold the thermostat in place this time, okay George? How about this. https://hcisupplystore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=103939&virtuemart_category_id=8156 Or this on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Close-Quarter-Power-Drill-55-Degree-Angle-Variable-Speed-1400rpm/254820459037?hash=item3b547ba21d:g:XkYAAOSw-l9ctlQt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 How about this. https://hcisupplystore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=103939&virtuemart_category_id=8156 Or this on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Close-Quarter-Power-Drill-55-Degree-Angle-Variable-Speed-1400rpm/254820459037?hash=item3b547ba21d:g:XkYAAOSw-l9ctlQt Jim. Well out of everything that went on, when i got the old thermostat housing off, never fear, the old thermostat stayed right in there from the last time i changed it. ummm 25 years ago. But fear not, i always use the self asheasive gasket, and is ready to go into the truck, well, except for that pesky broken bolt thing. I remember seeing that plaque everywhere as a kid, and yes, i do agree. A while back , i tried out working on lawnmowers and weedeaters as a sideline, was thinking about doing it full time, until the need for that sign, and also the sign that said, Labor rates XXXX, If you worked on it first, XXXXX, if you want to help XX,XXXXX The right angle attachment should be in tomorrow, I got everything else in yesterday so we should be good to go. Hope all is well, It is supposed to snow down here next week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Also, I think everyone here knows what youre going thru right now! Deep breaths. The best (other tool) is a spring loaded punch, the trick is to get it as close to center as possible, go with a small 1/8" bit then go larger according to the size eazyout , get it as straight and centered as possible, also soaking with PB Blaster, hope you did that while waiting on drill part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Jim. Well out of everything that went on, when i got the old thermostat housing off, never fear, the old thermostat stayed right in there from the last time i changed it. ummm 25 years ago. But fear not, i always use the self asheasive gasket, and is ready to go into the truck, well, except for that pesky broken bolt thing. I remember seeing that plaque everywhere as a kid, and yes, i do agree. A while back , i tried out working on lawnmowers and weedeaters as a sideline, was thinking about doing it full time, until the need for that sign, and also the sign that said, Labor rates XXXX, If you worked on it first, XXXXX, if you want to help XX,XXXXX The right angle attachment should be in tomorrow, I got everything else in yesterday so we should be good to go. Hope all is well, It is supposed to snow down here next week George, I'm not familiar with the 300 6 and the location of that thermostat housing, but if you can apply "cautious" heat to that broken stud, it would be incredibly helpful. I like to do several episodes of heat with impact, as in taking a flat punch to the broken stud while it's hot. I then use PB blaster and let it sit overnight. The center punch advice mentioned is right on! Cheap tool, great investment for this project. It's very important that you drill exactly centered but also in perfect alignment with the broken stud....not always easy. If you maintain center/alignment and the easy out doesn't work, you can ultimately use a tap drill size correct for the needed tap and clean up the hole for the correct bolt size. If, however, you break that tap off in there you will most likely be pulling the head. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 George, I'm not familiar with the 300 6 and the location of that thermostat housing, but if you can apply "cautious" heat to that broken stud, it would be incredibly helpful. I like to do several episodes of heat with impact, as in taking a flat punch to the broken stud while it's hot. I then use PB blaster and let it sit overnight. The center punch advice mentioned is right on! Cheap tool, great investment for this project. It's very important that you drill exactly centered but also in perfect alignment with the broken stud....not always easy. If you maintain center/alignment and the easy out doesn't work, you can ultimately use a tap drill size correct for the needed tap and clean up the hole for the correct bolt size. If, however, you break that tap off in there you will most likely be pulling the head. Good luck! Even if you break the EZ-Out you're looking at having it EDM'd or destroying a couple of carbide burrs getting it out. If I'm using an EZ-Out (and I like the square tapered ones) I try not to get the bolt too thin. Everybody says drill it as big as you can, but EZ-Out's work by wedging themselves in what's left, and you don't want to expand that into the female thread. I also might suggest an anerobic sealer on replacement. If there's no space in the thread fit for electrolysis then no corrosion can happen. PST doesn't significantly increase breakaway torque, and it does use PTFE as a thread lubricant. Of course, this is not an indicated use and it is me being a geek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 The best (other tool) is a spring loaded punch, the trick is to get it as close to center as possible, go with a small 1/8" bit then go larger according to the size eazyout , get it as straight and centered as possible, also soaking with PB Blaster, hope you did that while waiting on drill part. I got a set of those as well. I'm even thinking about getting some left hand drill bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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