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Carb Leak at Fuel Filter


tanman

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This is my plea for help before I just buy a new carburetor...

I've tried the following

- replaced the fuel filter

- white teflon tape

- yellow pipe tape

- red loctite

- silicone gasket sealer

Any ideas on another magic goo or a resource for purchasing a replacement would be helpful.

carb_leak_with_notes.jpg.d7c45645c7b38bfefd8d17fee6b8989d.jpg

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When I was redoing some transmission cooler lines on a friends G30 van, I bought a bottle of Permatex hydraulic sealer. It starts as a white goo about the consistency of toothpaste and hardens fairly well. Before you go to that, check that the top of the carburetor doesn't have a hairline crack at the bottom of the threaded hole.
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When I was redoing some transmission cooler lines on a friends G30 van, I bought a bottle of Permatex hydraulic sealer. It starts as a white goo about the consistency of toothpaste and hardens fairly well. Before you go to that, check that the top of the carburetor doesn't have a hairline crack at the bottom of the threaded hole.

Yes, it isn't uncommon for the casting to crack if someone has really cranked on the fitting. I think those are tapered pipe threads, and you can really generate a lot of force by overtightening.

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Yes, it isn't uncommon for the casting to crack if someone has really cranked on the fitting. I think those are tapered pipe threads, and you can really generate a lot of force by overtightening.

They're straight threads if it is a filter housing, and not just the filter threading in.

4180's were notorious for that and an oversized, self tapping housing was available (from Dorman, I think)

If it's just a YF, 2100,-50, whatever... Where the filter itself screws in, then IDK.

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They're straight threads if it is a filter housing, and not just the filter threading in.

4180's were notorious for that and an oversized, self tapping housing was available (from Dorman, I think)

If it's just a YF, 2100,-50, whatever... Where the filter itself screws in, then IDK.

Looks like a YF, but I don't know what the threads are where that filter screws in. Still, I'm guessing NPT.

carb_leak_with_notes.jpg.4336d29b06e887527416468c4265306a.jpg

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Yes, it's the filter itself, not a housing.

I think the 4V's were 7/8-24 or something equally odd.

It's been a few years...

IMG_8063.jpeg.ac4b147dae92a4a3a494bfdbc1f8dd02.jpeg

I tried this on my filler hose when I was making a patch a few weeks ago and so far so good. It has an impressive gooey consistency that should work if the carburetor housing isn't cracked.

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I tried this on my filler hose when I was making a patch a few weeks ago and so far so good. It has an impressive gooey consistency that should work if the carburetor housing isn't cracked.

It's been touched on, but you'll probably find that the carburetor is cracked from a past mechanic overtightening a fuel filter. It was really common on those carbs. I've never been a fan of tapered pipe threads in aluminum.

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It's been touched on, but you'll probably find that the carburetor is cracked from a past mechanic overtightening a fuel filter. It was really common on those carbs. I've never been a fan of tapered pipe threads in aluminum.

I've seen aluminum intake manifolds cracked because of someone overtightening tapered threads in the temp sender opening. If you can crack an intake manifold, cracking a carb should be easy. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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It's been touched on, but you'll probably find that the carburetor is cracked from a past mechanic overtightening a fuel filter. It was really common on those carbs. I've never been a fan of tapered pipe threads in aluminum.

If it's like most of those gold colored carburetors it's not even aluminum, it is a zinc alloy called "pot metal" and it will crack, heat creep and strip if you look at the threads hard. The Rochester Quadrajets were famous for stripped inlets.

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