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Greetings from Washington State


CRittaler

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Welcome to our group! FYI, hot fuel handling package was pretty well standard with AC from some point in 1984 through 1987 on the 460 trucks.

I have a 1986 chassis harness from my crew cab when I converted to EFI. It is 35" longer in front than the standard cab and is missing the plug for the 6 port valve. Since the valve and pigtail are available it is probably what you need. I also have the trailer tow harness (I think) and all of it is just taking up space.

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Uf!

They really did butcher the wiring. :nabble_smiley_argh:

:nabble_florida-man-42_orig: strikes again! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

That filter is trussed up like a Christmas goose!

The pump volume should be a quart in 15 seconds.

This is found in the TSB, that can be found. 'Documentation'>fuel systems>460>TSB's

If the harness and hoses are hacked, the best answer is a Pollak six port switch valve kit with the wiring pigtail.

I have found these on eBay for $74 delivered to your door.

The same switch is sold as Wells, Airtek, SMP, Duralast and others, but all cost more and don't include the harness plug.

IIRC your '85 switches senders in the valve and not at the switch like my '87.

Before you pull the pulley off your power steering note if the belts align and if the pump shaft is flush with the front of the sheave.

This is your reference upon replacement. 💡

Just use the new pump to purge the box.

Remove the return line, fill the reservoir, crank the truck over with the coil wire removed or leave the belt off and turn by hand.

This will pump the reservoir dry, purge the box and return line.

Un-cap the reservoir return, connect the hose, refill, start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times.

This purges any air out of the system.

With the C2 never turn the wheel without the engine running.

It will pee fluid all over the underside of the hood (or everywhere if the hood is open)

I'm going to respond to a couple posts at the same time here.

Welcome!

Thanks!

Uf!

They really did butcher the wiring. :nabble_smiley_argh:

:nabble_florida-man-42_orig: strikes again! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

That filter is trussed up like a Christmas goose!

Yeah, they butchered the wiring pretty good. The sending unit wires run up into the cab to a separate switch at the moment. This is some of the worst of it, but there are butt connectors everywhere, sometimes splicing 2 inches of wire.

The pump volume should be a quart in 15 seconds.

This is found in the TSB, that can be found. 'Documentation'>fuel systems>460>TSB's

If the harness and hoses are hacked, the best answer is a Pollak six port switch valve kit with the wiring pigtail.

I have found these on eBay for $74 delivered to your door.

The same switch is sold as Wells, Airtek, SMP, Duralast and others, but all cost more and don't include the harness plug.

IIRC your '85 switches senders in the valve and not at the switch like my '87.

I was considering one of the Pollak knock offs, specifically I was looking at the U7001. My main concern is that they appear to have the hose barbs for rubber fuel line and I appear to have Nylon, at least some of it it.

I've been looking at: One of these since it has the quick connect style connectors. I was planning on replacing all the nylon lines just to be certain it's all good. I have also considered jut replumbing it all with high pressure injection hose, but I haven't done the cost analysis to see what is cheaper.

Before you pull the pulley off your power steering note if the belts align and if the pump shaft is flush with the front of the sheave.

This is your reference upon replacement. 💡

Just use the new pump to purge the box.

Remove the return line, fill the reservoir, crank the truck over with the coil wire removed or leave the belt off and turn by hand.

This will pump the reservoir dry, purge the box and return line.

Un-cap the reservoir return, connect the hose, refill, start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times.

This purges any air out of the system.

With the C2 never turn the wheel without the engine running.

It will pee fluid all over the underside of the hood (or everywhere if the hood is open)

Thank you for this information on the pump! My plan was to use the currently leaking pump to purge the steering box with the method you describe and then replacing the pump. I might just purge the pump and box and clean the area, there's always a change the PO didn't know not to turn the wheels when the truck was off.

Welcome! Glad you joined.

I think we've had some communications about that truck on FB. Hopefully their aren't two trucks butchered like that.

Looks like you and Jim have things going already. Another you need to hear from is Shaun/salans7. He can help you understand what is involved in converting a 2wd F250 to 4wd which, as Jim said, isn't the easiest of tasks.

Was it you that I was talking with about the fuel line connectors?

Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission.

Hi Gary,

You are correct, we have done some communicating on the FB group, so, thankfully to our knowledge this is the only truck butchered like this.

Thanks for the information on who to reach out to. I think the truck came with most of the parts, but there was a lot of bracketry that had been cut off of another truck.

We were discussing the fuel line connectors, yes. I am torn between replacing all the nylon lines and using the FSV I linked above, or replacing the lines with rubber and using the Pollak valve. I have also considered replumbing the 2 3 way valves and wiring in a waterproof relay like what you have for the sending unit selection. Lots to mull over.

I have a Lisle 39000 Power steering pulley remover/installer on the way as well as the Dorman nylon install tool, but they're a week or so out according to Amazon.

Feel free to add me to the map, Marysville WA.

Oh, forgot about the Dart! Tell us more, please. I have its big brother, a '69 Bee.

I bought the Dart probably 12 years ago or so, I can't really remember lol. it's a 4 door, slant 6 automatic so nothing too special. 225 slant six. I've been working on it off and on over the time I've had it. Unfortunately it's back at my mother's place in Canada so I can't take any recent pictures. Eventually I will have this truck running well enough to make the trip to Sooke BC to visit and finally haul it out of my mothers driveway, lol.

Welcome to our group! FYI, hot fuel handling package was pretty well standard with AC from some point in 1984 through 1987 on the 460 trucks.

I have a 1986 chassis harness from my crew cab when I converted to EFI. It is 35" longer in front than the standard cab and is missing the plug for the 6 port valve. Since the valve and pigtail are available it is probably what you need. I also have the trailer tow harness (I think) and all of it is just taking up space.

Thanks for the welcome!

Thanks for the offer! I'm going to work on splicing the harness for the time being. It's nice to solder big stuff for once, I don't have to use a microscope for this. I might actually hit up a local scrap yard and see if they have any of the bullnose that I could snag the harness from for patching purposes.

The trailer wiring I had was all aftermarket I believe. I have an older Tekonsha brake controller attached to the driver side kick panel and some circuit breakers bolted to the driver side fender.

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I'm going to respond to a couple posts at the same time here.

Welcome!

Thanks!

Uf!

They really did butcher the wiring. :nabble_smiley_argh:

:nabble_florida-man-42_orig: strikes again! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

That filter is trussed up like a Christmas goose!

Yeah, they butchered the wiring pretty good. The sending unit wires run up into the cab to a separate switch at the moment. This is some of the worst of it, but there are butt connectors everywhere, sometimes splicing 2 inches of wire.

The pump volume should be a quart in 15 seconds.

This is found in the TSB, that can be found. 'Documentation'>fuel systems>460>TSB's

If the harness and hoses are hacked, the best answer is a Pollak six port switch valve kit with the wiring pigtail.

I have found these on eBay for $74 delivered to your door.

The same switch is sold as Wells, Airtek, SMP, Duralast and others, but all cost more and don't include the harness plug.

IIRC your '85 switches senders in the valve and not at the switch like my '87.

I was considering one of the Pollak knock offs, specifically I was looking at the U7001. My main concern is that they appear to have the hose barbs for rubber fuel line and I appear to have Nylon, at least some of it it.

I've been looking at: One of these since it has the quick connect style connectors. I was planning on replacing all the nylon lines just to be certain it's all good. I have also considered jut replumbing it all with high pressure injection hose, but I haven't done the cost analysis to see what is cheaper.

Before you pull the pulley off your power steering note if the belts align and if the pump shaft is flush with the front of the sheave.

This is your reference upon replacement. 💡

Just use the new pump to purge the box.

Remove the return line, fill the reservoir, crank the truck over with the coil wire removed or leave the belt off and turn by hand.

This will pump the reservoir dry, purge the box and return line.

Un-cap the reservoir return, connect the hose, refill, start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times.

This purges any air out of the system.

With the C2 never turn the wheel without the engine running.

It will pee fluid all over the underside of the hood (or everywhere if the hood is open)

Thank you for this information on the pump! My plan was to use the currently leaking pump to purge the steering box with the method you describe and then replacing the pump. I might just purge the pump and box and clean the area, there's always a change the PO didn't know not to turn the wheels when the truck was off.

Welcome! Glad you joined.

I think we've had some communications about that truck on FB. Hopefully their aren't two trucks butchered like that.

Looks like you and Jim have things going already. Another you need to hear from is Shaun/salans7. He can help you understand what is involved in converting a 2wd F250 to 4wd which, as Jim said, isn't the easiest of tasks.

Was it you that I was talking with about the fuel line connectors?

Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission.

Hi Gary,

You are correct, we have done some communicating on the FB group, so, thankfully to our knowledge this is the only truck butchered like this.

Thanks for the information on who to reach out to. I think the truck came with most of the parts, but there was a lot of bracketry that had been cut off of another truck.

We were discussing the fuel line connectors, yes. I am torn between replacing all the nylon lines and using the FSV I linked above, or replacing the lines with rubber and using the Pollak valve. I have also considered replumbing the 2 3 way valves and wiring in a waterproof relay like what you have for the sending unit selection. Lots to mull over.

I have a Lisle 39000 Power steering pulley remover/installer on the way as well as the Dorman nylon install tool, but they're a week or so out according to Amazon.

Feel free to add me to the map, Marysville WA.

Oh, forgot about the Dart! Tell us more, please. I have its big brother, a '69 Bee.

I bought the Dart probably 12 years ago or so, I can't really remember lol. it's a 4 door, slant 6 automatic so nothing too special. 225 slant six. I've been working on it off and on over the time I've had it. Unfortunately it's back at my mother's place in Canada so I can't take any recent pictures. Eventually I will have this truck running well enough to make the trip to Sooke BC to visit and finally haul it out of my mothers driveway, lol.

Welcome to our group! FYI, hot fuel handling package was pretty well standard with AC from some point in 1984 through 1987 on the 460 trucks.

I have a 1986 chassis harness from my crew cab when I converted to EFI. It is 35" longer in front than the standard cab and is missing the plug for the 6 port valve. Since the valve and pigtail are available it is probably what you need. I also have the trailer tow harness (I think) and all of it is just taking up space.

Thanks for the welcome!

Thanks for the offer! I'm going to work on splicing the harness for the time being. It's nice to solder big stuff for once, I don't have to use a microscope for this. I might actually hit up a local scrap yard and see if they have any of the bullnose that I could snag the harness from for patching purposes.

The trailer wiring I had was all aftermarket I believe. I have an older Tekonsha brake controller attached to the driver side kick panel and some circuit breakers bolted to the driver side fender.

You are now on the map.

As for the valve, connectors, etc, I don't know what the best way is, but the connectors aren't cheap. But if you have the tool they make for a nice, factory, installation.

On the Dart, we had a '61 Valiant, very much like your Dart. It was a daily driver and with the slant six it ran nicely. Would love to have it back!

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I'm going to respond to a couple posts at the same time here.

Welcome!

Thanks!

Uf!

They really did butcher the wiring. :nabble_smiley_argh:

:nabble_florida-man-42_orig: strikes again! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

That filter is trussed up like a Christmas goose!

Yeah, they butchered the wiring pretty good. The sending unit wires run up into the cab to a separate switch at the moment. This is some of the worst of it, but there are butt connectors everywhere, sometimes splicing 2 inches of wire.

The pump volume should be a quart in 15 seconds.

This is found in the TSB, that can be found. 'Documentation'>fuel systems>460>TSB's

If the harness and hoses are hacked, the best answer is a Pollak six port switch valve kit with the wiring pigtail.

I have found these on eBay for $74 delivered to your door.

The same switch is sold as Wells, Airtek, SMP, Duralast and others, but all cost more and don't include the harness plug.

IIRC your '85 switches senders in the valve and not at the switch like my '87.

I was considering one of the Pollak knock offs, specifically I was looking at the U7001. My main concern is that they appear to have the hose barbs for rubber fuel line and I appear to have Nylon, at least some of it it.

I've been looking at: One of these since it has the quick connect style connectors. I was planning on replacing all the nylon lines just to be certain it's all good. I have also considered jut replumbing it all with high pressure injection hose, but I haven't done the cost analysis to see what is cheaper.

Before you pull the pulley off your power steering note if the belts align and if the pump shaft is flush with the front of the sheave.

This is your reference upon replacement. 💡

Just use the new pump to purge the box.

Remove the return line, fill the reservoir, crank the truck over with the coil wire removed or leave the belt off and turn by hand.

This will pump the reservoir dry, purge the box and return line.

Un-cap the reservoir return, connect the hose, refill, start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times.

This purges any air out of the system.

With the C2 never turn the wheel without the engine running.

It will pee fluid all over the underside of the hood (or everywhere if the hood is open)

Thank you for this information on the pump! My plan was to use the currently leaking pump to purge the steering box with the method you describe and then replacing the pump. I might just purge the pump and box and clean the area, there's always a change the PO didn't know not to turn the wheels when the truck was off.

Welcome! Glad you joined.

I think we've had some communications about that truck on FB. Hopefully their aren't two trucks butchered like that.

Looks like you and Jim have things going already. Another you need to hear from is Shaun/salans7. He can help you understand what is involved in converting a 2wd F250 to 4wd which, as Jim said, isn't the easiest of tasks.

Was it you that I was talking with about the fuel line connectors?

Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission.

Hi Gary,

You are correct, we have done some communicating on the FB group, so, thankfully to our knowledge this is the only truck butchered like this.

Thanks for the information on who to reach out to. I think the truck came with most of the parts, but there was a lot of bracketry that had been cut off of another truck.

We were discussing the fuel line connectors, yes. I am torn between replacing all the nylon lines and using the FSV I linked above, or replacing the lines with rubber and using the Pollak valve. I have also considered replumbing the 2 3 way valves and wiring in a waterproof relay like what you have for the sending unit selection. Lots to mull over.

I have a Lisle 39000 Power steering pulley remover/installer on the way as well as the Dorman nylon install tool, but they're a week or so out according to Amazon.

Feel free to add me to the map, Marysville WA.

Oh, forgot about the Dart! Tell us more, please. I have its big brother, a '69 Bee.

I bought the Dart probably 12 years ago or so, I can't really remember lol. it's a 4 door, slant 6 automatic so nothing too special. 225 slant six. I've been working on it off and on over the time I've had it. Unfortunately it's back at my mother's place in Canada so I can't take any recent pictures. Eventually I will have this truck running well enough to make the trip to Sooke BC to visit and finally haul it out of my mothers driveway, lol.

Welcome to our group! FYI, hot fuel handling package was pretty well standard with AC from some point in 1984 through 1987 on the 460 trucks.

I have a 1986 chassis harness from my crew cab when I converted to EFI. It is 35" longer in front than the standard cab and is missing the plug for the 6 port valve. Since the valve and pigtail are available it is probably what you need. I also have the trailer tow harness (I think) and all of it is just taking up space.

Thanks for the welcome!

Thanks for the offer! I'm going to work on splicing the harness for the time being. It's nice to solder big stuff for once, I don't have to use a microscope for this. I might actually hit up a local scrap yard and see if they have any of the bullnose that I could snag the harness from for patching purposes.

The trailer wiring I had was all aftermarket I believe. I have an older Tekonsha brake controller attached to the driver side kick panel and some circuit breakers bolted to the driver side fender.

I thought the switch valve was missing and two others were in its place?

The picture you show of a fuel filter is just rubber hose.

I didn't assume nylon quicklocks were part of the plan, or anywhere to be found.

Pollak is the supplier. It's not a knockoff, they just don't make the ones with quicklocks and a Ford oval for public consumption.

If the wiring is jacked and the hoses cut I sure as hell wouldn't pay Ford $400 for a switch valve I can buy for $75 complete with plug.

It's a good idea you have using the old pump to purge the old fluid.

I guess I'm always looking to save steps, but I guess it doesn't matter if it happens when the return line comes off, or before it goes on

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I thought the switch valve was missing and two others were in its place?The picture you show of a fuel filter is just rubber hose.I didn't assume nylon quicklocks were part of the plan, or anywhere to be found.Pollak is the supplier. It's not a knockoff, they just don't make the ones with quicklocks and a Ford oval for public consumption.If the wiring is jacked and the hoses cut I sure as hell wouldn't pay Ford $400 for a switch valve I can buy for $75 complete with plug.It's a good idea you have using the old pump to purge the old fluid.I guess I'm always looking to save steps, but I guess it doesn't matter if it happens when the return line comes off, or before it goes on
You are correct in that the 6 port valve is missing and was replaced by 2 3 way valves.  It's hard to see in the pictures, but the return line that is clamped with zip ties is clamped onto some of the nylon tubing that is brown in color.  Further back on the left side of the picture is one of the 3 way valves with a chunk of rubber hos clamped to some blue nylon tubing.

 

 

I fully intend on using one of the aftermarket valves it's just if I want to use the pollak style and replace all the fuel lines with hi pressure injection hose or use the later style 6 port that has the quick connects and replace the nylon tubing and connectors.  I'm somewhat concerned about the longevity of injection hose in the tank area since it's hard to get to.

 

 

 

 

Sent via the physical keyboard on my Unhertz Titan

 

 

 

 

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