Gary Lewis Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 I think that's your best bet. Tell them what's up and that if it is the same then it won't fit and you don't want it. But if it is bent correctly it'll solve the problem and you will certainly want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hey Tyler where did you mount the lower brackets for the rad? I did the top mounts today but it seems like the rad will be on quite an angle if I swing it inside more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hey Tyler where did you mount the lower brackets for the rad? I did the top mounts today but it seems like the rad will be on quite an angle if I swing it inside more... I thought I had more pictures but this is the only one. I used the existing holes that lined up with the bracket tack welds that I had to drill out. On the passenger side (pictured) I only put a bolt in the lower bracket and used the battery tray connector sheetmetal bolt on the top. I didn't have to drill any new holes in the new core support after making the top radiator mounts and was able to put my radiator exactly in the same place as the old support as far as I can tell. Also, I had to shave the corner off the bottom of the support sheetmetal in this pic so that it didn't contact the bolt head on the other side of the core support. And I just snapped this one for you: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hey Tyler where did you mount the lower brackets for the rad? I did the top mounts today but it seems like the rad will be on quite an angle if I swing it inside more... I thought I had more pictures but this is the only one. I used the existing holes that lined up with the bracket tack welds that I had to drill out. On the passenger side (pictured) I only put a bolt in the lower bracket and used the battery tray connector sheetmetal bolt on the top. I didn't have to drill any new holes in the new core support after making the top radiator mounts and was able to put my radiator exactly in the same place as the old support as far as I can tell. Also, I had to shave the corner off the bottom of the support sheetmetal in this pic so that it didn't contact the bolt head on the other side of the core support. And I just snapped this one for you: After trying to shut my hood, I found that my number of shims required to align everything will have to be adjusted. BTW, how many shims do you have on the core support bushings on the framerail? I had 7 on each side... Now I will have many less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Hey Tyler where did you mount the lower brackets for the rad? I did the top mounts today but it seems like the rad will be on quite an angle if I swing it inside more... I thought I had more pictures but this is the only one. I used the existing holes that lined up with the bracket tack welds that I had to drill out. On the passenger side (pictured) I only put a bolt in the lower bracket and used the battery tray connector sheetmetal bolt on the top. I didn't have to drill any new holes in the new core support after making the top radiator mounts and was able to put my radiator exactly in the same place as the old support as far as I can tell. Also, I had to shave the corner off the bottom of the support sheetmetal in this pic so that it didn't contact the bolt head on the other side of the core support. And I just snapped this one for you: Tyler, Thanks for the pics. Is the radiator tipped in on the bottom quite a bit? I mean is the bottom further forward than the top? If so, how much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 Tyler, Thanks for the pics. Is the radiator tipped in on the bottom quite a bit? I mean is the bottom further forward than the top? If so, how much? Each side of my radiator touches or nearly touches the raised lip of the core support. Close to parallel with the contours of the air louvers (if that's what they're called). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Each side of my radiator touches or nearly touches the raised lip of the core support. Close to parallel with the contours of the air louvers (if that's what they're called). Perfect, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 Perfect, thanks I don't remember how many shims but it was what ever it took to get the line of the fender to doors straight. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 I don't remember how many shims but it was what ever it took to get the line of the fender to doors straight. Dave ---- Before the install, I measured the dimensions and it seemed like it would be pretty much a bolt-on. I recently just figured out that I'll need to correct body panel alignment after the new core support. ZERO EXPERIENCE. I have removed nearly all support bushing shims and now the rock guard is just touching the frame rail. The hood still sits a little too high. (sigh) Time to learn something new! The obstacle IS the way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 Before the install, I measured the dimensions and it seemed like it would be pretty much a bolt-on. I recently just figured out that I'll need to correct body panel alignment after the new core support. ZERO EXPERIENCE. I have removed nearly all support bushing shims and now the rock guard is just touching the frame rail. The hood still sits a little too high. (sigh) Time to learn something new! The obstacle IS the way... IT'S ALIVE ! Fired up the truck last night and performed the first ECU grooming tests and operations. The throttle response is outstanding. Big lessons learned (pictures on page 2 of this thread): SAFETY FIRST! If drilling/cutting holes in a fuel tank that has had fuel in it, COMPLETELY FILL IT WITH WATER. COMPLETELY. Even a small amount of fuel vapor can ignite and become a scary situation. Make sure to get all of the metal shavings out of the tank. Dish soap and a lot of sloshing and rinsing with water worked very well. It helps to have help with fuel tank removal and install (should be empty). Use 2 floor jacks if nobody wants to come over at 8pm on a Tuesday and help you because they have a family, LOL. The Mr Gasket 4bbl to 2bbl conversion plate comes with capscrews that are too long for the Offy DP intake mounting holes. Go buy 1in normal hex head screws and grade 8 washers and bridge the recess where the capscrews would have gone. The Sniper may not come with the exact fuel fittings you need or want. Also, it does not come with a fuel pressure gage. I used Amazon to source these loose ends. Disconnect your starter and fully verify that you have a 12v source in run and crank BEFORE you cut a wire for splicing. Rollover valve and grommet: check LMC. I didn't and paid way too much for a grommet that didn't work and the company won't post my respectfully dissatisfied review (Fillerneck Supply). $33 for grommet and valve... Fuel pump block off plate: I bought a beautiful blue anodized aluminum one from broncograveyard. The included bolts were too large in diameter so I got some from Lowes. Looks pretty though... If converting to the Walker y pipe, and you have an Offy intake do not install the intake manifold until the exhaust pipe is in place. Install order: gasket, FI exhaust manifolds, then the Offy. I found the Walker pipe to go in easiest from the top, not fed upward from underneath thanks to the transmission crossmember for my T18. I had to buy 2 y pipes because I didn't go with my intuition when the first one seemed bent too far. Consider using a different unit like Bosal. Also I expended 2 hours and 4 grinding bits making one of the holes match the pipe ID for the rear bank. The O2 bung also had to be cleaned up in order for the sensor to screw in. There are pictures on another thread in this forum concerning y pipe install. I have a double belt 1G alternator. When my lights are on (they are LED) my blinker is very very slow and sometimes fades away when I have the blower running as well. Looks like my next project is the 3G conversion... Don't forget that the carb 300s have a different gasket than the FI 300s! The new core support may require you to readjust fenders and hood alignment. Junk Yards have cool stuff! Especially all those little pieces you can't buy anywhere else. Have patience and enjoy the process! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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