ArdWrknTrk Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Welcome, Jim. I think we have the friendliest and best-informed community on the internet. Through no small effort on your part. Yes, I'm very grateful that we're respectful, and no Pirate4X4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 I recently bought a vacuum pump to test the sensor and the motor in a hope to get the air mixing snorkel to work. I was glad to find the motor works fine. In reading the emissions manual I found that the sensor should allow vacuum through below 75F and then not bleed off until 105F. No idea how that would work, but since mine doesn't do much above 40F, I ordered a new one. After waiting weeks for USPS to deliver it, sadly it functions no better. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n82562/IMG_3778.jpg I can not get either sensor to work in my garage, which is around 60F. I managed to get the old one to activate the motor after placing it in the freezer... Both work outside(mid 40s), but also bleed off even at those temps. I do have the Cold weather modulator and that does work. It held the vacuum outside and even held it when I tested the frozen sensor inside. So I suppose the system would work if I were to drive the truck outside now, but for how long? So my question is, what temperature is optimal? The 105F is just the temp listed for my original and new sensor. There are also 90F and 75F options. Since I have a snorkel without the air mixing capability in addition to the mixing one, I'm thinking I might want warm engine bay air added constantly during winter. Since the sensors aren't working as I expected them to, I'm thinking the best way forward is just bypassing the sensor or plugging the bleed off valve... But that depends on what temperature air I should attempt to provide the engine. Maybe the 105F has thrown off my thinking and 60F is fine... You don’t happen to have the part # handy ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Ford-D7EE-9E607-AA-Air-Cleaner-Temperature-Sensor/182169675274?epid=1173634372&hash=item2a6a28a60a:g:im8AAOSwOVpXXtwa Price has increased by $5... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Loctite is no good near plastic. Gary, you go back all the way to the 1940's?!?!? It's really helpful for me because I don't have an optical drive to read my MPC. Nor a screen big enough.... Thank you for all the time you spend helping us with parts numbers and diagrams. I'm sure the piece is all metal Jim. If you knew what you were doing, I guess you could adjust them. Or even if you didn't, I suppose you could play around with one using a vacuum gauge. Anyway, it appears I won't need to. The new sensor worked fine as far as I could tell. Pulling my truck out of the garage yesterday(temps below 40F), the 'hot air flap' was wide open. Even after a 100 mile drive with temps around 50F the flap was not fully closed when we returned. So I would call the new sensor a success. I hooked up a new 'stove pipe' and have it temporarily placed to 'catch' air from the exhaust manifold. Haven't tested it yet, but I hope to still devise a more permanent and less 'backyard mechanic' solution. I had planned to clamp the pipe to the base of the front manifold, but the foil is so weak, it keeps tearing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 I'm sure the piece is all metal Jim. If you knew what you were doing, I guess you could adjust them. Or even if you didn't, I suppose you could play around with one using a vacuum gauge. Anyway, it appears I won't need to. The new sensor worked fine as far as I could tell. Pulling my truck out of the garage yesterday(temps below 40F), the 'hot air flap' was wide open. Even after a 100 mile drive with temps around 50F the flap was not fully closed when we returned. So I would call the new sensor a success. I hooked up a new 'stove pipe' and have it temporarily placed to 'catch' air from the exhaust manifold. Haven't tested it yet, but I hope to still devise a more permanent and less 'backyard mechanic' solution. I had planned to clamp the pipe to the base of the front manifold, but the foil is so weak, it keeps tearing... I'll bet that works, Rob. It looks like success to me. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew1983F100 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Ok, here are the real part numbers. And we may be one of the few places on the net that has these. I'll put them on the Air Cleaners page. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n82898/9E607_Air_Temp_Sensors_Pg_1.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n82898/9E607_Air_Temp_Sensors_Pg_2.jpg Thank you very much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Loctite is no good near plastic. Gary, you go back all the way to the 1940's?!?!? It's really helpful for me because I don't have an optical drive to read my MPC. Nor a screen big enough.... Thank you for all the time you spend helping us with parts numbers and diagrams. Jim, the ones I was working on were metal, like the ones pictured, the tube coming out of the portion that sits inside the air filter is the one I would adjust. The Chrysler ones seemed to be the most problematic, and lack of heated air contributed to the classic Chrysler sound of the era, the "Highland Park Hummingbird" followed by a "boom" as it backfired into the air cleaner followed the "roar" as (generally) 383 2 barrel engine started. I could walk out of our local 2 story shopping mall and hear one almost every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Jim, the ones I was working on were metal, like the ones pictured, the tube coming out of the portion that sits inside the air filter is the one I would adjust. The Chrysler ones seemed to be the most problematic, and lack of heated air contributed to the classic Chrysler sound of the era, the "Highland Park Hummingbird" followed by a "boom" as it backfired into the air cleaner followed the "roar" as (generally) 383 2 barrel engine started. I could walk out of our local 2 story shopping mall and hear one almost every time. Yes, I know that sound all too well. The distinctive sound of the gear-reduction starter singing away, and then the boom - which was particularly loud on my Bee as it had the "unsilenced" air cleaner. But the @#$%^&* Holley 4bbl carbs would do it as well, and you could kiss the power valve goodbye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Yes, I know that sound all too well. The distinctive sound of the gear-reduction starter singing away, and then the boom - which was particularly loud on my Bee as it had the "unsilenced" air cleaner. But the @#$%^&* Holley 4bbl carbs would do it as well, and you could kiss the power valve goodbye. Yes, that is true, the 383 2 barrel engines had Stromberg WWC carbs or Carter BBD 1 1/2" models. The air cleaner stud was screwed into the bowl cover at the front edge of the choke opening and there was no screw near it attaching it to the float bowl casting. The air cleaner stud was simply a length of 1/4" rod threaded on both ends with no physical stop like GM used. As a result the old underhood service, check oil, look at belts etc. was usually finished with a twist of the wing nut. After a while between being over tightened and the high underhood temperatures, the Zinc alloy casting would warp. The warped casting (a) no longer sealed the back edge of the float bowl and (b) could jam the choke blade. It also allowed fuel pull over on a cold start flooding the engine. The resulting backfire from holding the throttle wide open could and sometimes did start a fire inside the air cleaner. Chrysler's end solution, (a) replace the Strombergs with Carters and install a 3/8" bar across the top of the air horn held down with longer screws and having the air cleaner stud welded to it. Air horns were to be replaced if warped. I flattened a number of them during rebuilds and then installed the recall brace. On Strombergs, after straightening the air horn, I would use 3 1/4-20 nuts and one flat washer. One nut and the washer at the bottom of the stud, the other two nuts used as a stop so the air filter was snug when the lid contacted them. You could tighten the wing nut until your fingers hurt and not damage the carburetor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Jim, the ones I was working on were metal, like the ones pictured, the tube coming out of the portion that sits inside the air filter is the one I would adjust. The Chrysler ones seemed to be the most problematic, and lack of heated air contributed to the classic Chrysler sound of the era, the "Highland Park Hummingbird" followed by a "boom" as it backfired into the air cleaner followed the "roar" as (generally) 383 2 barrel engine started. I could walk out of our local 2 story shopping mall and hear one almost every time. I think the clicky thermal sensors are all metal, with a colored dot. I know I'm now looking for one of the green plastic delay/check valves for the side air scoop on my filter housing. That nipple broke off and I melted a bit of brass tubing in its stead. What else can you do???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Loctite is no good near plastic. Gary, you go back all the way to the 1940's?!?!? I've always guessed him to be a '48 or '49 Gary myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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