4160 carb install and tune (for Mike)

[Gary Lewis]

Again, while I appreciate the positive comments, it's the productive criticism that I'm hoping can make this thread better.

What have I missed, or done wrong?

I still don't see any feedback from 'Cobra', but hopefully he will ask some questions.

Maybe this can ultimately become an addendum to the DSII conversion tutorial.

As it pretty much outlines what you'd need to do if setting up a non-feedback carb and distributor.

Should we dive into DuraSpark distributor curving?

Scotty has a detailed tutorial that I certainly can't improve on.

Jim - Sometimes I find that enrichening the idle mix just a smidge from "best vacuum" works better. I don't like to let my engines idle for long periods of time, so I'm not worried about the little bit of extra fuel. But right on "best vacuum" hasn't been best for me.

On the distributor curving, perhaps a link to Scotty's procedure? That's because it is a deep discussion and isn't something that many of us will undertake. However, including info on the basic procedure (base/centrifugal/vacuum) and then a discussion of tuning vacuum advance to the vehicle might be in order.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Sometimes I find that enrichening the idle mix just a smidge from "best vacuum" works better. I don't like to let my engines idle for long periods of time, so I'm not worried about the little bit of extra fuel. But right on "best vacuum" hasn't been best for me.

On the distributor curving, perhaps a link to Scotty's procedure? That's because it is a deep discussion and isn't something that many of us will undertake. However, including info on the basic procedure (base/centrifugal/vacuum) and then a discussion of tuning vacuum advance to the vehicle might be in order.

Slightly rich is far safer than 'slightly lean' and better for power.

But I alluded to this in the other thread when I said Holley sent their carbs out the door that way.

Is there a link to Scott's old tutorial? Because I don't see it on the PPAM website.

I thought you had asked him about hosting it here?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Slightly rich is far safer than 'slightly lean' and better for power.

But I alluded to this in the other thread when I said Holley sent their carbs out the door that way.

Is there a link to Scott's old tutorial? Because I don't see it on the PPAM website.

I thought you had asked him about hosting it here?

Maybe Bill could share his tricks of the trade???

[26ftcobraBBF]

Maybe Bill could share his tricks of the trade???

Here I am present and accounted for. Busy day for me, I was just able to get to the forum.

Great write up, thank you for that. I see there's more information I should have put up for discussion/ or for your consideration to be able to effectively help to make my rig run the best it can.

De-smogged- everything smog related is gone, no cat, no vacuum switches, air tubes plugged, smog pump removed, but retained the bracket in position to assist the alternator.

I would love to hear what you all can teach about the inter workings of the distributor, and well as the link to the video, or write up from Scott.

I wanted to send some photos , but haven't quite made it over to the RV storage yard yet today.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here I am present and accounted for. Busy day for me, I was just able to get to the forum.

Great write up, thank you for that. I see there's more information I should have put up for discussion/ or for your consideration to be able to effectively help to make my rig run the best it can.

De-smogged- everything smog related is gone, no cat, no vacuum switches, air tubes plugged, smog pump removed, but retained the bracket in position to assist the alternator.

I would love to hear what you all can teach about the inter workings of the distributor, and well as the link to the video, or write up from Scott.

I wanted to send some photos , but haven't quite made it over to the RV storage yard yet today.

Okay.

There never was a Cat if your GVW is over #8,500 and the sticker says "NON-CATALYST".

I am using the L&L alternator bracket (with shim washers)

We need to distinguish between how your RV came off the line and how it would run best.

As you see, I have trouble addressing your questions, because I see them directed to "stock" instead of 'optimal'.

Additionally, it would be helpful to have something to address you as.

If you like 'Cobra' I'm good with that.

But I feel impersonal, without knowing how you wish to be addressed...

Perhaps we can dive into Distributor advance as part of a addendum to the DuraSpark conversion tutorial?

[Gary Lewis]

Here I am present and accounted for. Busy day for me, I was just able to get to the forum.

Great write up, thank you for that. I see there's more information I should have put up for discussion/ or for your consideration to be able to effectively help to make my rig run the best it can.

De-smogged- everything smog related is gone, no cat, no vacuum switches, air tubes plugged, smog pump removed, but retained the bracket in position to assist the alternator.

I would love to hear what you all can teach about the inter workings of the distributor, and well as the link to the video, or write up from Scott.

I wanted to send some photos , but haven't quite made it over to the RV storage yard yet today.

Congrat's on posting via the forum. Looks nice and clean.

And now you can post pics. As Jim said earlier, there are instructions on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Plus, you can use the emoticons.

[grumpin]

Jim - Sometimes I find that enrichening the idle mix just a smidge from "best vacuum" works better. I don't like to let my engines idle for long periods of time, so I'm not worried about the little bit of extra fuel. But right on "best vacuum" hasn't been best for me.

That’s what I was taught early on when working on piston aircraft. Of course there’s a mixture control, which is quite handy!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Sometimes I find that enrichening the idle mix just a smidge from "best vacuum" works better. I don't like to let my engines idle for long periods of time, so I'm not worried about the little bit of extra fuel. But right on "best vacuum" hasn't been best for me.

That’s what I was taught early on when working on piston aircraft. Of course there’s a mixture control, which is quite handy!

Definitely better to err on the side of fouling plugs than holing pistons!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here I am present and accounted for. Busy day for me, I was just able to get to the forum.

Great write up, thank you for that. I see there's more information I should have put up for discussion/ or for your consideration to be able to effectively help to make my rig run the best it can.

De-smogged- everything smog related is gone, no cat, no vacuum switches, air tubes plugged, smog pump removed, but retained the bracket in position to assist the alternator.

I would love to hear what you all can teach about the inter workings of the distributor, and well as the link to the video, or write up from Scott.

I wanted to send some photos , but haven't quite made it over to the RV storage yard yet today.

Okay, the distributor instructions from Scotty's old Rein'car Nation' Automotive page are:

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

And

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

Here Scotty explains the relation between slot width and degrees of advance.

How to limit it by bushing the stop pin or welding the slot.

How different springs affect how progressive and aggressive the centrifugal advance will be.

How to adjust the vacuum 'can' and why it pulls the whole backing plate around.

 

[26ftcobraBBF]

Okay.

There never was a Cat if your GVW is over #8,500 and the sticker says "NON-CATALYST".

I am using the L&L alternator bracket (with shim washers)

We need to distinguish between how your RV came off the line and how it would run best.

As you see, I have trouble addressing your questions, because I see them directed to "stock" instead of 'optimal'.

Additionally, it would be helpful to have something to address you as.

If you like 'Cobra' I'm good with that.

But I feel impersonal, without knowing how you wish to be addressed...

Perhaps we can dive into Distributor advance as part of a addendum to the DuraSpark conversion tutorial?

Good evening ArdWrkn Trk, I'm somewhat relieved that I only have to type out your name because I'm not quite sure how to pronounce it to address you in conversation. To answer your question, my mom calls me Michael, to everyone else I introduce myself as Mike. "The Cobra" is what I call my motorhome. It's a 1985 Cobra 26' class C motorhome. Powered by a Ford cutaway chasis E-350 Econoline with a 460ci engine. Hence my user 26ftcobraBBF (26 foot Cobra Big Block Ford).

The history of the Cobra Motorhome, in case you were wondering dated back to the early 1970s, Cobra produced a wide range of recreational vehicle. They produced Class A and Class C motorhomes through much of its three decades of existence, Cobra was also attached to the creation of fifth wheel trailers until 1980. Cobra’s extensive line of motorhomes have been powered by Chevrolet, Ford and Dodge powertrains. Cobra ceased production of motorhomes after the 1994 model year. Forest River Incorporated bought assets of the company soon after it shutdown. Some die hard Ford guys I've ran across in Facebook groups get really sensitive when I mention a 1985 Ford Cobra is why I like to give a little history behind the name.

I've had some time to think about the information I've been requesting, and while you guys did a stellar job fielding my questions I can see why there may have been some confusion (mainly mine), or you guys thinking"what the hell is this guy talking about". It wasn't until you brought to my attention about all the factory, vehicle specific, specs being ," out the window" because of the changes I've made to the motor. That is when I questioned my direction. I now realize I can't rely on factory specs trying to make this run as good as it did new. I didn't even think about that until you mentioned it, which makes perfect sense. Thank you for that. I'm now going to take on a more Ford performance mindset versus a return to OEM mindset. Looking forward to your conversation about Duraspark, and/ or distributor specific information.

Disclosure....:nabble_smiley_grin:I'm a carpenter by trade, not a mechanic. I've got a very mechanical mind that started as a kid with my dad, and through the years I've mostly always done all of my own mechanical work to mine, and friends and familys vehicles. So when I ask dumb questions thank you in advance for just answering and not busting my you know what's to bad.