4160 carb install and tune (for Mike)

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm going to try and document what I went through to install and adjust the Holley 80508 on my truck today.

Mostly went very well, but I had my throttle cable bracket set for the AVS and my distributor didn't want to budge!

I guess it's been a long time since I had to touch it.

Yay, DuraSpark!

I'm doing this from my phone and uploading pics is really slow without WiFi, so it's going to take a while, and a few posts.

Let's get started.

It is 22F in the barn this morning.

So I feel I can set the choke as is.

I'm using a #35 drill bit shank (exactly .110")

I swapped the OEM Motorcraft choke coil on. It uses ~7V from the stator and a single bullet connector.

Now it's time to remove the misbehaving AVS and a new gasket in prep for the Holley.

Notice how the secondary bores are opened up to 1 3/4 in my non-EGR spacer.

The Eddy only has 1 7/16 primaries.

Good for booster signal, bad for flow.

(I need to charge my phone and get something warm in me.

Be back in a bit...

[Gary Lewis]

I'm hanging on tenterhooks! Where'd you go, Jim? I'm following along - now that we got rid of all that white stuff.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm hanging on tenterhooks! Where'd you go, Jim? I'm following along - now that we got rid of all that white stuff.

After setting the choke when absolutely cold I made some reference marks by scratching some lines in my choke cap to match the cast in indicator (that I've blackened with marker)

My 4160 has a red fast idle cam and a yellow accelerator cam in the middle screw position.

When mounted I had to check for full throttle throw by making sure the cable was not holding it open at rest, and that it would be fully open with the pedal on the floor.

At first the cable was adjusted for the Edelbrock and is too short to close and coil bound before the throttle is fully open.

I moved the ball connection on the throttle arm closer to the pivot.

This gives me less leverage, but more throw.

The idle mixture screws are on each side of the front metering block.

With the PCV and fuel lines hooked up and the vacuum lines that would go to my air cleaner taped over, it's time to try and start this pig.

I fill the front and rear float bowls with TruFuel through their vents with a big syringe.

I have to get the engine to high idle while the choke is on and the fast idle cam in place.

When it starts I check the float levels are good and I try to set the throttle stop screw for about 1,600 rpm.

Then it's time to throw the air cleaner back on and fully warm up the engine.

I do have a few jets to choose from, but I've run this carb before so the jets should be good.

I don't have a wide band oxygen sensor so any tuning is by vacuum and the unfortunate "butt dyno"

This carburetor also has a quick change cover for the secondary spring. (but, again, this isn't it's first rodeo)

I just want it to pull hard without stumbling because the rear bores open too quickly.

Time to go for a ride! 😁

[ArdWrknTrk]

After setting the choke when absolutely cold I made some reference marks by scratching some lines in my choke cap to match the cast in indicator (that I've blackened with marker)

My 4160 has a red fast idle cam and a yellow accelerator cam in the middle screw position.

When mounted I had to check for full throttle throw by making sure the cable was not holding it open at rest, and that it would be fully open with the pedal on the floor.

At first the cable was adjusted for the Edelbrock and is too short to close and coil bound before the throttle is fully open.

I moved the ball connection on the throttle arm closer to the pivot.

This gives me less leverage, but more throw.

The idle mixture screws are on each side of the front metering block.

With the PCV and fuel lines hooked up and the vacuum lines that would go to my air cleaner taped over, it's time to try and start this pig.

I fill the front and rear float bowls with TruFuel through their vents with a big syringe.

I have to get the engine to high idle while the choke is on and the fast idle cam in place.

When it starts I check the float levels are good and I try to set the throttle stop screw for about 1,600 rpm.

Then it's time to throw the air cleaner back on and fully warm up the engine.

I do have a few jets to choose from, but I've run this carb before so the jets should be good.

I don't have a wide band oxygen sensor so any tuning is by vacuum and the unfortunate "butt dyno"

This carburetor also has a quick change cover for the secondary spring. (but, again, this isn't it's first rodeo)

I just want it to pull hard without stumbling because the rear bores open too quickly.

Time to go for a ride! 😁

THE BEAST IS BACK!!!! 😤

My truck has been sluggish and hard to start because the Edelbrock's accelerator pump isn't working.

But now it spins tires, pushes me back in the seat and pulls right through 5,500 rpm on the highway.

Now that it's warmed up we need to set the idle mixture, distributor advance and curb idle.

I'm going to use my Mity-Vac pump to read vacuum. (because I'm a mess and can't find the 'proper' vacuum gauge)

I turn the screws on each side 1/4 turn at a time. Just to where it doesn't seem to be making the idle any higher.

My vacuum gauge was reading about 15" when I started. It's up to 21 now.

In preparation, I marked my harmonic damper with chalk rubbed in to the graduations.

I have a distributor wrench

But I haven't needed it in many years.

My distributor is totally stuck.

It takes me the better part of an hour with a torch, PB Blaster, a lump hammer & brass drift and a brand new (sharp teeth) pair of Channellocks with a cheater pipe on them to work it loose..

You can't see past the blur but almost 20° btdc explains why my truck doesn't like regular fuel.

Bringing the timing back to 15° should free up a bunch of power too.

I have a narrow slot for mechanical advance in my dizzy.

Though I'm surprised it has been running right at 195°F every time I check the water neck.

With the mixture and timing set it is time to reset the curb idle rpms.

Some timing lights have a handy tach built in.

I go for 750, but if you have an automatic it's best to chock the wheels and set it in drive to whatever the sticker calls for.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

THE BEAST IS BACK!!!! 😤

My truck has been sluggish and hard to start because the Edelbrock's accelerator pump isn't working.

But now it spins tires, pushes me back in the seat and pulls right through 5,500 rpm on the highway.

Now that it's warmed up we need to set the idle mixture, distributor advance and curb idle.

I'm going to use my Mity-Vac pump to read vacuum. (because I'm a mess and can't find the 'proper' vacuum gauge)

I turn the screws on each side 1/4 turn at a time. Just to where it doesn't seem to be making the idle any higher.

My vacuum gauge was reading about 15" when I started. It's up to 21 now.

In preparation, I marked my harmonic damper with chalk rubbed in to the graduations.

I have a distributor wrench

But I haven't needed it in many years.

My distributor is totally stuck.

It takes me the better part of an hour with a torch, PB Blaster, a lump hammer & brass drift and a brand new (sharp teeth) pair of Channellocks with a cheater pipe on them to work it loose..

You can't see past the blur but almost 20° btdc explains why my truck doesn't like regular fuel.

Bringing the timing back to 15° should free up a bunch of power too.

I have a narrow slot for mechanical advance in my dizzy.

Though I'm surprised it has been running right at 195°F every time I check the water neck.

With the mixture and timing set it is time to reset the curb idle rpms.

Some timing lights have a handy tach built in.

I go for 750, but if you have an automatic it's best to chock the wheels and set it in drive to whatever the sticker calls for.

I posted this to try and help Cobra adjust the new 0-80457-s in his RV.

I know his carb doesn't have adjustable floats or a fuel log on the right, but the basics are the same for all 4160's.

It's not a comprehensive guide to tuning or Holley's.

If anyone has comments, criticism or something to add please do so.

You will help Cobra and I can learn too.

If there is anything I should have pictured I can go back and edit it in.

[Gary Lewis]

I posted this to try and help Cobra adjust the new 0-80457-s in his RV.

I know his carb doesn't have adjustable floats or a fuel log on the right, but the basics are the same for all 4160's.

It's not a comprehensive guide to tuning or Holley's.

If anyone has comments, criticism or something to add please do so.

You will help Cobra and I can learn too.

If there is anything I should have pictured I can go back and edit it in.

Well done, Jim! It really should help Cobra, although you should put a link to here in his other thread as I'm not sure he will see it otherwise.

As for what else to add, I don't see anything. However, he probably needs further discussion about the distributor. And while the title of this thread is 4160 Carb you did touch on initial and centrifugal advance. Would it be good to explain that further here or in his other thread?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well done, Jim! It really should help Cobra, although you should put a link to here in his other thread as I'm not sure he will see it otherwise.

As for what else to add, I don't see anything. However, he probably needs further discussion about the distributor. And while the title of this thread is 4160 Carb you did touch on initial and centrifugal advance. Would it be good to explain that further here or in his other thread?

That's a good idea Gary!💡

Consider it done.

I guess the "tune" in the title was meant to include the steps Cobra showed in his picture of the emissions sticker.

He had asked if the engine had to be warm and what order to do these basics.

Cory and I responded that if you adjust idle mixture, distributor advance and curb idle you have to go round and round because both the former will effect the later.

I keep trying to address that because he has been asking (in the other thread) about what goes into a calibration code, what tag should be on his distributor, etc...

But that all goes out the window when he says it is "desmogged" (quotes because I don't know to what extent) and shows it with the 0-80457-S, a generic distributor and some aftermarket air cleaner.

Are the thermactor ports at the rear of the heads plugged?

Are the air spider manifolds removed and the fittings in the exhaust manifolds plugged?

What is he using for an alternator bracket if the A.I.R. pumps and their bracket are missing?

We know the cam is retarded, and he's giving up 25 hp and 50# of torque right there in my ignorant opinion.

I can't think of anything that needs an EFI timing set more than an RV.

[1986F150Six]

That's a good idea Gary!💡

Consider it done.

I guess the "tune" in the title was meant to include the steps Cobra showed in his picture of the emissions sticker.

He had asked if the engine had to be warm and what order to do these basics.

Cory and I responded that if you adjust idle mixture, distributor advance and curb idle you have to go round and round because both the former will effect the later.

I keep trying to address that because he has been asking (in the other thread) about what goes into a calibration code, what tag should be on his distributor, etc...

But that all goes out the window when he says it is "desmogged" (quotes because I don't know to what extent) and shows it with the 0-80457-S, a generic distributor and some aftermarket air cleaner.

Are the thermactor ports at the rear of the heads plugged?

Are the air spider manifolds removed and the fittings in the exhaust manifolds plugged?

What is he using for an alternator bracket if the A.I.R. pumps and their bracket are missing?

We know the cam is retarded, and he's giving up 25 hp and 50# of torque right there in my ignorant opinion.

I can't think of anything that needs an EFI timing set more than an RV.

Excellent tutorial, Jim!

[grumpin]

That's a good idea Gary!💡

Consider it done.

I guess the "tune" in the title was meant to include the steps Cobra showed in his picture of the emissions sticker.

He had asked if the engine had to be warm and what order to do these basics.

Cory and I responded that if you adjust idle mixture, distributor advance and curb idle you have to go round and round because both the former will effect the later.

I keep trying to address that because he has been asking (in the other thread) about what goes into a calibration code, what tag should be on his distributor, etc...

But that all goes out the window when he says it is "desmogged" (quotes because I don't know to what extent) and shows it with the 0-80457-S, a generic distributor and some aftermarket air cleaner.

Are the thermactor ports at the rear of the heads plugged?

Are the air spider manifolds removed and the fittings in the exhaust manifolds plugged?

What is he using for an alternator bracket if the A.I.R. pumps and their bracket are missing?

We know the cam is retarded, and he's giving up 25 hp and 50# of torque right there in my ignorant opinion.

I can't think of anything that needs an EFI timing set more than an RV.

Thanks for posting this Jim, helpful!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for posting this Jim, helpful!

Again, while I appreciate the positive comments, it's the productive criticism that I'm hoping can make this thread better.

What have I missed, or done wrong?

I still don't see any feedback from 'Cobra', but hopefully he will ask some questions.

Maybe this can ultimately become an addendum to the DSII conversion tutorial.

As it pretty much outlines what you'd need to do if setting up a non-feedback carb and distributor.

Should we dive into DuraSpark distributor curving?

Scotty has a detailed tutorial that I certainly can't improve on.