Proper tuning sequence?

[Gary Lewis]

I think the calibration code will be on a sticker on the valve cover. Should look like this:

[ArdWrknTrk]

See Gary's reply.

It's also on the radiator support sticker.

That is the only way Ford engineers could put something past the EPA guidelines.

The calibration code details how the carb is tuned, where the timing is set, what kind of Cat may be installed, etc...

Just like the little aluminum tag attached to every carb that comes off the assembly line.

Each application has a specific distributor tune.

Gary and are using the NAPA TP-40 module.

I'm not sure what Cory has.

[Gary Lewis]

See Gary's reply.

It's also on the radiator support sticker.

That is the only way Ford engineers could put something past the EPA guidelines.

The calibration code details how the carb is tuned, where the timing is set, what kind of Cat may be installed, etc...

Just like the little aluminum tag attached to every carb that comes off the assembly line.

Each application has a specific distributor tune.

Gary and are using the NAPA TP-40 module.

I'm not sure what Cory has.

Yep. And I can pull up the calibration parts list if I knew the code, and the parts list gives the part numbers for things like the distributor, carburetor, etc. Those things were very closely tuned to each application.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I was your kid 53 years ago.

What's his special interest?

No matter where on the spectrum, we all are fascinated by something esoteric.

[26ftcobraBBF]

I was your kid 53 years ago. :nabble_smiley_good:What's his special interest?No matter where on the spectrum, we all are fascinated by something esoteric.

I sure love my boy he's into wheels, and trains. He's high functioning on the spectrum and very smart.Thank you for asking

 

 

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 6:41 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Back then there was no diagnosis for me, though I would beat my head on the wall I was able to read far beyond my class and had -have- a verbose lexicon.

I grew up in the space age so was into rockets (and chemistry... any kind of material science), but every kid is special and I'm sure he'll put his passions to good use if given the chance.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Back then there was no diagnosis for me, though I would beat my head on the wall I was able to read far beyond my class and had -have- a verbose lexicon.I grew up in the space age so was into rockets (and chemistry... any kind of material science), but every kid is special and I'm sure he'll put his passions to good use if given the chance.

Here's what I have. I don't see a code though....

 

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 7:30 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

[26ftcobraBBF]

I agree with Jim. But you may be planning just basic things. So let me suggest a process.I'd play with ignition timing first, and by that I mean base timing or what Jim called "static" timing. It can really change other things, so if the engine is running fairly well play with it first. Disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing to what the sticker calls for plus two degrees. Reconnect the vacuum advance and drive it and see how it responds. Especially listen for detonation or pinging. And see how it starts - does it kick back or start normally.If it liked +2 degrees give it +4. And maybe +6, but depending on what the recommended timing is I don't think I'd go over 14 degrees BTDC or you may have pinging or detonation next summer.With that done you may have to adjust your idle speed if your vacuum advance is on at idle. And then I'd adjust the idle air/fuel mix. After that the choke since the idle mix does effect the choke.As for the dash pot, is it the one that slows the closing of the throttle?

Dash pot ..yes with no vacuum, or power, it just softens the throttle closing... Forgot to ask to at what point do I put the vac guage on to check it out? Before adjusting the fuel mixture right?

 

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 4:44 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[26ftcobraBBF]

If you are just making basic settings and not taking a dive into recalibrating everything, probably the best thing you could do for power is to install a 'straight up' timing set and bring the base ignition timing to 10 or 12°.You say the water pump was just replaced....Too bad, because you were 90% of the way to the best $50 upgrade you can ever do to a 460.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EHBYVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_JO01Fb7M9T2MY

I know bummer on the timing set. Just the water pump was we quite the job. I didn't realize it till it was all back together, then after running it seen a little moisture seep out from where it had previously sealed.Probably a good thing though is because if I would have done the timing set up I probably would have considered an RV can... You know how it goed to"since your in this far might a as well".

 

 

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 3:06 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

An RV cam involves pulling the intake, rocker arms, pushrods and lifters.

DAMHIK!

Consider a towing cam instead..

But the water pump backing plate is a weak link.

And once you are there......

Actually, the Ford HD cam is quite good for something like an RV if it is set 'straight up'

My old engine would just keep pulling, to 6k.

The convolute weep passages in the back side of the timing case are a darn sight better than coolant in your oil pan!

Be careful not to fill them with sealant on R&R the timing case.

I can offer advice, but it is only my personal experience, and I am no guru.