Lila- 81 F100. Built for her, by her!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Looks like good progress, Jaci. However, I think you may have made a mistake in boring out the splines. That is what made the arm rotate with the shaft, but now the arm is likely to slip instead of rotate when you depress the pedal.

As for the spring, it is there to ensure the pedal comes all the way back up.

I think I mentioned the overcenter spring, above ^^^

Without full pedal return the reservoir port in the master cylinder will not open.

That's why arm position, pushrod adjustment and the condition of all the plastic bushings is so critical.

The arm was available as a replacement part from Ford.

Maybe Gary can post the #?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good Evening All! I hope that everyone had a wonderful holiday! We took a much needed mental break from Ol'Lila......sort of...lol!

Since my last update the serpentine system has been installed minus my harmonic balancer spacer... comes in (tomorrow). Exhaust manifolds have been mocked up and will be installed as soon as the new oil dipstick tube is placed later this week.

Rear disc conversion is complete....Finally....that was a disaster. Tires have been mounted and are temporarily on truck so driveline can be installed and adjusted accordingly. Due to Lila being originally rear drums, we quickly discovered that the calipers and rims were going to rub. We are currently waiting for 1'' spacers to arrive. Suspension is complete...with purple springs...of course!

Wiring harness has been cleaned, rewrapped, and waiting install.

I am currently recovering the dash cover (no way am I paying to have a new one shipped).

Now, that pedal box has me wondering. Here are the 2 boxes I have:

81'

94'

In order to use my original box I have to utilize the original shaft (length) and clutch pedal (spring location). The lever on 94' has splines, while the 81' does not.

I was able to fit the 94' lever on the 81' shaft which required boring out the splined portion, which I am now thinking may have been the wrong move. I am wondering if I have to utilize any of the mechanical linkage hardware, as the spring has me incredibly confused as to its functioning.

The two different 'at rest' orientations of the pedal arm are very apparent in the pictures.

The different shaft lengths are a bit disconcerting too.

When aligned on the left it appears simply swapping the hydraulic arm onto the mechanical shaft might put the pivot pin right up against the transmission tunnel.

I don't know if that's the case.

And I don't know if you'd need to flip the offset hydraulic arm around (with the pin pointing toward the door to get it in plane with the master cylinder pushrod, but these are things that need to be examined before cutting, drilling, welding or whatever 'fully committed' steps you take.

Maybe an appropriate torsion spring could slip over the shaft as it is inserted into the pedal support, in order to get the clutch pedal to return and have the master cylinder piston come fully to the rear?

The rubber bump stop should prevent the pedal from pulling the piston out.

Does your master cylinder have an adjustable pushrod?

... with wrench flats and a jamb nut*?

[Lila_the81Custom]

Looks like good progress, Jaci. However, I think you may have made a mistake in boring out the splines. That is what made the arm rotate with the shaft, but now the arm is likely to slip instead of rotate when you depress the pedal.

As for the spring, it is there to ensure the pedal comes all the way back up.

Gary,

I believe that I can get another splined arm and I know that the spring is for bringing the pedal back. The one on the 81' is on top and reverse from the 94', which I am sure is the difference in mechanical vs. hydraulic. The rod was way to short from 94' to 81'. Snaffu #4001 with this truck! My poor diesel mechanic husband is sick of telling me that there is a large difference between working on tractor trailers/buses and small/older resto projects!

Now just to figure out a solution. I have seen where the hydraulic master booster is placed on the clutch side instead of the brake side and it connects directly to the clutch pedal. I have also seen that there may very well be a master cylinder behind the clutch pedal. Ugh, nothing can just be simple can it!

All part of the adventure in my head!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,

I believe that I can get another splined arm and I know that the spring is for bringing the pedal back. The one on the 81' is on top and reverse from the 94', which I am sure is the difference in mechanical vs. hydraulic. The rod was way to short from 94' to 81'. Snaffu #4001 with this truck! My poor diesel mechanic husband is sick of telling me that there is a large difference between working on tractor trailers/buses and small/older resto projects!

Now just to figure out a solution. I have seen where the hydraulic master booster is placed on the clutch side instead of the brake side and it connects directly to the clutch pedal. I have also seen that there may very well be a master cylinder behind the clutch pedal. Ugh, nothing can just be simple can it!

All part of the adventure in my head!

Jaci,

Just go with the stock master in the stock location.

It will save you dozens of headaches going forward...

Yes, in a Z-bar clutch slack is taken up against any wear in the clutch or mechanism.

In a hydraulic setup the master cylinder has to retract all the way to open the piston to the reservoir.

With my external slave there is an internal spring that keeps the throwout fork & bearing against the pressure plate fingers.

It is far better for the bearing to be spinning with the shaft than to be accelerated from zero to 4000 and back every time you step on the clutch.

I'm not sure if the internal concentric slave of the Windsor bell Zf/M5R2 is the same, but Cory could confirm.

So, you're going to need to drill a large hole for the master, and two smaller ones for the studs.

This is best done with a uni-bit (step drill). You can get a cheap pair -$13.95- at Horrid Fate.

Be sure to deburr those holes when done!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,

I believe that I can get another splined arm and I know that the spring is for bringing the pedal back. The one on the 81' is on top and reverse from the 94', which I am sure is the difference in mechanical vs. hydraulic. The rod was way to short from 94' to 81'. Snaffu #4001 with this truck! My poor diesel mechanic husband is sick of telling me that there is a large difference between working on tractor trailers/buses and small/older resto projects!

Now just to figure out a solution. I have seen where the hydraulic master booster is placed on the clutch side instead of the brake side and it connects directly to the clutch pedal. I have also seen that there may very well be a master cylinder behind the clutch pedal. Ugh, nothing can just be simple can it!

All part of the adventure in my head!

Back to the pedal spring.

Look for a torsion spring similar to the ones used in a lawnmower to keep the bag chute closed when the bag's not attached.

Just go to the box store and look at displays.

Note the model number and go online to the manufacturer, ereplacementparts, repairclinic, or toolpartspro to see the exploded view and order the one you need.

Remove your existing spring and figure out how to use the torsion spring to hold the pedal against the rubber bumper.

(Note: the spring on either side of a mower will be wound the opposite way! 💡)

[Gary Lewis]

Back to the pedal spring.

Look for a torsion spring similar to the ones used in a lawnmower to keep the bag chute closed when the bag's not attached.

Just go to the box store and look at displays.

Note the model number and go online to the manufacturer, ereplacementparts, repairclinic, or toolpartspro to see the exploded view and order the one you need.

Remove your existing spring and figure out how to use the torsion spring to hold the pedal against the rubber bumper.

(Note: the spring on either side of a mower will be wound the opposite way! 💡)

I agree with Jim - use factory parts. I've put hydraulic clutch assemblies where mechanical ones where, put '95 masters and boosters in an '85, and was able in all cases to bolt it in.

[Rembrant]

I'm not sure if the internal concentric slave of the Windsor bell Zf/M5R2 is the same, but Cory could confirm.

So, you're going to need to drill a large hole for the master, and two smaller ones for the studs.

This is best done with a uni-bit (step drill). You can get a cheap pair -$13.95- at Horrid Fate.

Be sure to deburr those holes when done!

Sorry, I'm no help with ZF5 stuff. I'm an M5R2 guy...lol. I know the slaves did change over the years, but I believe Jaci said that she took the whole hydraulic kit out of the '94, so she should be good to go. My '84 F150 was a factory hydraulic clutch truck, so the 5spd swap was very easy. I am now doing it in my 1980 (in a couple days) so I too have to drill the holes in the firewall like Jaci does. I bought a Bullnose hydraulic clutch pedal box/kit from a fellow member on here, so it should be a fairly easy install. I'll let you know later this week.

This 1980 was a manual trans truck (T18, I believe) and it was swapped to an automatic, and I'm now swapping it back to a manual.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not sure if the internal concentric slave of the Windsor bell Zf/M5R2 is the same, but Cory could confirm.

So, you're going to need to drill a large hole for the master, and two smaller ones for the studs.

This is best done with a uni-bit (step drill). You can get a cheap pair -$13.95- at Horrid Fate.

Be sure to deburr those holes when done!

Sorry, I'm no help with ZF5 stuff. I'm an M5R2 guy...lol. I know the slaves did change over the years, but I believe Jaci said that she took the whole hydraulic kit out of the '94, so she should be good to go. My '84 F150 was a factory hydraulic clutch truck, so the 5spd swap was very easy. I am now doing it in my 1980 (in a couple days) so I too have to drill the holes in the firewall like Jaci does. I bought a Bullnose hydraulic clutch pedal box/kit from a fellow member on here, so it should be a fairly easy install. I'll let you know later this week.

This 1980 was a manual trans truck (T18, I believe) and it was swapped to an automatic, and I'm now swapping it back to a manual.

I meant to say that I don't know if the concentric slave is spring loaded against the pressure plate fingers.

I know about the mounting screws changing.

[myrl883]

I meant to say that I don't know if the concentric slave is spring loaded against the pressure plate fingers.

I know about the mounting screws changing.

If'n it helps, the early timing cover will work with a reverse pump, and serpentine drive and a mechanical fuel pump are not mutually exclusive...

The P/S pump bracket can be mildly relieved to clear the fuel pump. The P/S pump fits closer to the block on a serpentine drive, so the clearance is tight, but they'll both fit.

Use an early timing cover with a mechanical fuel pump, and buy a water pump for a serpentine drive Mustang. That's how Ford made it work on the Mustang! Remember, they were carbureted, too.

My '81 has the original timing cover and fuel pump, a serpentine drive from a 1994ish F150 (with a G3 alternator and working ammeter) and a Mustang water pump. Everyone under the hood is happy!