Lila- 81 F100. Built for her, by her!

[salans7]

Rembrant,

The casting number on the block is F1SE-BB. As stated before I know it is not the original engine and if I had to guess what it was pulled from I would think a mustang (even though the S is for thunderbird). I know the engine came to me complete with carb, v-belts, and mechanical fuel pump. What it was originally, I have zero idea.

Right, yes. I forgot about the block casting number. God knows what it came out of then. Clearly some parts were swapped around in the past. This makes the 302 a little frustrating as there were lots of changes over the years.

I will weigh in on the pedal support, as I have some experience down that road.

As Cory said, the hydraulic pedal assembles are different between the generations, 83-86, 87-91, and 92-96. Each generation the support bracket that is riveted to the cab near the windshield changes as well, and that bracket is what the pedal assemblies bolt to at the top. The pedal assemblies also utilize the same bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.

In order to put a bullnose 83-86 pedal assembly into my 1990 cab, I had to cut the spot welds holding the support brackets to each cab and then swap the bullnose bracket to the 1990 cab. Then I had to weld the bracket to the cab.

Here is the bracket from the bullnose in my 1990 cab:

Here is the bracket in a 92-96 truck:

You will have to do some custom fabrication to make the newer pedal assembly work in an older truck. I can't tell you what that entails past what I've personally done, but expect to have to make custom brackets. Keep in mind your dash frame will have to clear the newer pedal assembly as well, and that might be where you will have the hardest time. I would personally try and hunt down the correct 1983-1986 pedal assembly for your truck. It will save you time and work in the long-run.

[Lila_the81Custom]

I will weigh in on the pedal support, as I have some experience down that road.

As Cory said, the hydraulic pedal assembles are different between the generations, 83-86, 87-91, and 92-96. Each generation the support bracket that is riveted to the cab near the windshield changes as well, and that bracket is what the pedal assemblies bolt to at the top. The pedal assemblies also utilize the same bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.

In order to put a bullnose 83-86 pedal assembly into my 1990 cab, I had to cut the spot welds holding the support brackets to each cab and then swap the bullnose bracket to the 1990 cab. Then I had to weld the bracket to the cab.

Here is the bracket from the bullnose in my 1990 cab:

Here is the bracket in a 92-96 truck:

You will have to do some custom fabrication to make the newer pedal assembly work in an older truck. I can't tell you what that entails past what I've personally done, but expect to have to make custom brackets. Keep in mind your dash frame will have to clear the newer pedal assembly as well, and that might be where you will have the hardest time. I would personally try and hunt down the correct 1983-1986 pedal assembly for your truck. It will save you time and work in the long-run.

Shaun

Thanks so much for the pictures! Super helpful. So I have both pedal boxes, my original 81' as well as the 94' that I pulled the transmission from. So if I am understanding correctly...... I may possibly need the steering bracket plate from the 94' dash? To my understanding, I can't use my 81' pedal box for the 94 hydraulic transmission because the 81' was a mechanical clutch?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Shaun

Thanks so much for the pictures! Super helpful. So I have both pedal boxes, my original 81' as well as the 94' that I pulled the transmission from. So if I am understanding correctly...... I may possibly need the steering bracket plate from the 94' dash? To my understanding, I can't use my 81' pedal box for the 94 hydraulic transmission because the 81' was a mechanical clutch?

I think Gary and I both suggested putting a hydraulic clutch actuating arm on the onboard end of your existing mechanical clutch pedal assembly, OR use the hydraulic clutch pedal and slip it into your mechanical pedal set/support.

Then there would be no fabricating brackets or finding a way to attach your old steering column.

The little arm comes off the onboard of the clutch crossover shaft by removing the nut/bolt and hammering or prying it off.

It is meant to cut its own splines as you tighten it onto the shaft.

But I'm not looking at all these parts scratching my head.

So I can't say how feasible that is.

It would be the most expedient and easiest way forward.

I've got no idea if a mechanical clutch has an overcenter spring to return the pedal.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think Gary and I both suggested putting a hydraulic clutch actuating arm on the onboard end of your existing mechanical clutch pedal assembly, OR use the hydraulic clutch pedal and slip it into your mechanical pedal set/support.

Then there would be no fabricating brackets or finding a way to attach your old steering column.

The little arm comes off the onboard of the clutch crossover shaft by removing the nut/bolt and hammering or prying it off.

It is meant to cut its own splines as you tighten it onto the shaft.

But I'm not looking at all these parts scratching my head.

So I can't say how feasible that is.

It would be the most expedient and easiest way forward.

I've got no idea if a mechanical clutch has an overcenter spring to return the pedal.

Oh and, I did shoot you an email with my cell# as if I'm not confusing enough.....

[Frank Wyatt]

Shaun

Thanks so much for the pictures! Super helpful. So I have both pedal boxes, my original 81' as well as the 94' that I pulled the transmission from. So if I am understanding correctly...... I may possibly need the steering bracket plate from the 94' dash? To my understanding, I can't use my 81' pedal box for the 94 hydraulic transmission because the 81' was a mechanical clutch?

Remove the manual linkage pedal from the 1981 pedal box and replace it with the pedal from the 1990 pedal assembly. While it is apart that will be an ample opportunity to lubricate the assembly and replace the bushings. This way you will not have to fabricate a mounting plate for the pedal box assembly as the original one to the cab will be getting re-installed, just with the hydraulic clutch pedal instead of the linkage style pedal.

[Gary Lewis]

Remove the manual linkage pedal from the 1981 pedal box and replace it with the pedal from the 1990 pedal assembly. While it is apart that will be an ample opportunity to lubricate the assembly and replace the bushings. This way you will not have to fabricate a mounting plate for the pedal box assembly as the original one to the cab will be getting re-installed, just with the hydraulic clutch pedal instead of the linkage style pedal.

/\ /\ Yes, what they said!

Just use the hydraulic pedal & shaft from the later box in the Bullnose box. No need to use the whole box from the later truck as that is a LOT of work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Remove the manual linkage pedal from the 1981 pedal box and replace it with the pedal from the 1990 pedal assembly. While it is apart that will be an ample opportunity to lubricate the assembly and replace the bushings. This way you will not have to fabricate a mounting plate for the pedal box assembly as the original one to the cab will be getting re-installed, just with the hydraulic clutch pedal instead of the linkage style pedal.

To Frank's comment I would add two things:

Be careful with lubricant.

Anything oily or sticky will attract dust and grit, making a very nice grinding compound.

Something like Teflon Dry Lube -TDL- from PB Blaster is ideal.

The bushings are plastic and will get worn through. AMHIK!

Take the time to check these grey delrin bushings while you have the pedal box out.

I have seen extreme examples (mostly farm and field trucks that see a lot of dirty boots) where the shaft cuts right into the casting, making the hole egg shaped.

A sloppy crossover shaft will cut down on the amount of clutch disengagement you get.

Another common failure point is the pin that connects to the master cylinders pushrod.

There is a four fingered plastic bushing that holds it together.

If the bushing wears out, the pin gets a groove worn in the back side.

Then there's too much slop to get the hydraulic clutch to release.

And the plastic clip will break the first time you step on the pedal.

That little arm and pin are available new.

But still the plastic clip wears, and should always be replaced.

I let mine go too far and for some years had a brass shell casing JB Welded on there, with a washer and an e-clip in the extractor groove holding the pushrod. (Shadetree at it's finest!)

[Frank Wyatt]

To Frank's comment I would add two things:

Be careful with lubricant.

Anything oily or sticky will attract dust and grit, making a very nice grinding compound.

Something like Teflon Dry Lube -TDL- from PB Blaster is ideal.

The bushings are plastic and will get worn through. AMHIK!

Take the time to check these grey delrin bushings while you have the pedal box out.

I have seen extreme examples (mostly farm and field trucks that see a lot of dirty boots) where the shaft cuts right into the casting, making the hole egg shaped.

A sloppy crossover shaft will cut down on the amount of clutch disengagement you get.

Another common failure point is the pin that connects to the master cylinders pushrod.

There is a four fingered plastic bushing that holds it together.

If the bushing wears out, the pin gets a groove worn in the back side.

Then there's too much slop to get the hydraulic clutch to release.

And the plastic clip will break the first time you step on the pedal.

That little arm and pin are available new.

But still the plastic clip wears, and should always be replaced.

I let mine go too far and for some years had a brass shell casing JB Welded on there, with a washer and an e-clip in the extractor groove holding the pushrod. (Shadetree at it's finest!)

Yes, like Jim said some type of dry lubricant such as what he suggested.

[Lila_the81Custom]

Good Evening All! I hope that everyone had a wonderful holiday! We took a much needed mental break from Ol'Lila......sort of...lol!

Since my last update the serpentine system has been installed minus my harmonic balancer spacer... comes in (tomorrow). Exhaust manifolds have been mocked up and will be installed as soon as the new oil dipstick tube is placed later this week.

Rear disc conversion is complete....Finally....that was a disaster. Tires have been mounted and are temporarily on truck so driveline can be installed and adjusted accordingly. Due to Lila being originally rear drums, we quickly discovered that the calipers and rims were going to rub. We are currently waiting for 1'' spacers to arrive. Suspension is complete...with purple springs...of course!

Wiring harness has been cleaned, rewrapped, and waiting install.

I am currently recovering the dash cover (no way am I paying to have a new one shipped).

Now, that pedal box has me wondering. Here are the 2 boxes I have:

81'

94'

In order to use my original box I have to utilize the original shaft (length) and clutch pedal (spring location). The lever on 94' has splines, while the 81' does not.

I was able to fit the 94' lever on the 81' shaft which required boring out the splined portion, which I am now thinking may have been the wrong move. I am wondering if I have to utilize any of the mechanical linkage hardware, as the spring has me incredibly confused as to its functioning.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Good Evening All! I hope that everyone had a wonderful holiday! We took a much needed mental break from Ol'Lila......sort of...lol!

Since my last update the serpentine system has been installed minus my harmonic balancer spacer... comes in (tomorrow). Exhaust manifolds have been mocked up and will be installed as soon as the new oil dipstick tube is placed later this week.

Rear disc conversion is complete....Finally....that was a disaster. Tires have been mounted and are temporarily on truck so driveline can be installed and adjusted accordingly. Due to Lila being originally rear drums, we quickly discovered that the calipers and rims were going to rub. We are currently waiting for 1'' spacers to arrive. Suspension is complete...with purple springs...of course!

Wiring harness has been cleaned, rewrapped, and waiting install.

I am currently recovering the dash cover (no way am I paying to have a new one shipped).

Now, that pedal box has me wondering. Here are the 2 boxes I have:

81'

94'

In order to use my original box I have to utilize the original shaft (length) and clutch pedal (spring location). The lever on 94' has splines, while the 81' does not.

I was able to fit the 94' lever on the 81' shaft which required boring out the splined portion, which I am now thinking may have been the wrong move. I am wondering if I have to utilize any of the mechanical linkage hardware, as the spring has me incredibly confused as to its functioning.

Looks like good progress, Jaci. However, I think you may have made a mistake in boring out the splines. That is what made the arm rotate with the shaft, but now the arm is likely to slip instead of rotate when you depress the pedal.

As for the spring, it is there to ensure the pedal comes all the way back up.