ArdWrknTrk Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks re: the Bible verse, guys. Seems even more appropriate these days... So, your truck has DSII and it looks like EGR delete (from my phone.... sideways) That would make it more like a mid '70's heavy duty (over 8,500# gvw) setup. Simplicity is a good thing as long as you don't have to smog test your truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmac1773 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 So, your truck has DSII and it looks like EGR delete (from my phone.... sideways) That would make it more like a mid '70's heavy duty (over 8,500# gvw) setup. Simplicity is a good thing as long as you don't have to smog test your truck. Thanks... hopefully that simplicity will keep some money in my pocket. LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks... hopefully that simplicity will keep some money in my pocket. LOL! Welcome to the neighborhood. Your carb is a Carter YFA non feedback. Everything that has been said above is absolutely correct and we will be glad to help you with anything that may come up. First and foremost. These carburetors are notorious for coming loose . Make sure it is tight to the manifold, once you ensure it is tight, wiggle the carburetor, if you feel any play at all, you will have to remove it, flip it upside down and there are 4 screws that will need to be tighten'd and use thread locker. I did an entire emissions and egr delete on mine and is running well now for quite some time. Welcome to the neighborhood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Welcome to the neighborhood. Your carb is a Carter YFA non feedback. Everything that has been said above is absolutely correct and we will be glad to help you with anything that may come up. First and foremost. These carburetors are notorious for coming loose . Make sure it is tight to the manifold, once you ensure it is tight, wiggle the carburetor, if you feel any play at all, you will have to remove it, flip it upside down and there are 4 screws that will need to be tighten'd and use thread locker. I did an entire emissions and egr delete on mine and is running well now for quite some time. Welcome to the neighborhood Frank Wyatt ran into this just yesterday (post in the WHYDTYTT) so, spot on with that advice, Geroge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmac1773 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Welcome to the neighborhood. Your carb is a Carter YFA non feedback. Everything that has been said above is absolutely correct and we will be glad to help you with anything that may come up. First and foremost. These carburetors are notorious for coming loose . Make sure it is tight to the manifold, once you ensure it is tight, wiggle the carburetor, if you feel any play at all, you will have to remove it, flip it upside down and there are 4 screws that will need to be tighten'd and use thread locker. I did an entire emissions and egr delete on mine and is running well now for quite some time. Welcome to the neighborhood Thanks for the advise, guys! I knew I had found a good place when I ran across this community. Y'all rock! And I'll check the carb tightness today. I think its fine as I had my air cleaner off yesterday and didn't notice a wiggly carb when I placed the air cleaner bottom back on... but I'll double check! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 Welcome to the neighborhood. Your carb is a Carter YFA non feedback. Everything that has been said above is absolutely correct and we will be glad to help you with anything that may come up. First and foremost. These carburetors are notorious for coming loose . Make sure it is tight to the manifold, once you ensure it is tight, wiggle the carburetor, if you feel any play at all, you will have to remove it, flip it upside down and there are 4 screws that will need to be tighten'd and use thread locker. I did an entire emissions and egr delete on mine and is running well now for quite some time. Welcome to the neighborhood Thanks for the advise, guys! I knew I had found a good place when I ran across this community. Y'all rock! And I'll check the carb tightness today. I think its fine as I had my air cleaner off yesterday and didn't notice a wiggly carb when I placed the air cleaner bottom back on... but I'll double check! Yeah, for the life of me I don't know why those screws don't have lock washers under their heads. The next time I have the carb off, I'll be adding lock washers as well as the lock tite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Yeah, for the life of me I don't know why those screws don't have lock washers under their heads. The next time I have the carb off, I'll be adding lock washers as well as the lock tite. I check mine about once per month. I have to keep a closer eye on it right now as i have changed so many things around, mainly the carb spacer. Since i rebuilt it, i went with screws that were slightly longer and used loctite to put the 2 pieces back together. The bolts that go from my carb to the manifold, had to be changed as well because the spacer is shorter then the factory spacer, so the factory studs would no longer work. i used lock washers and bolts with some loctite. It is a very good idea to check the carb bolts very often. I've had Brutus leave me on the road because of this issue with no wrench in site I do love the 300 Six, but when cranking and shutting down, it shakes violently and things work there way loose under there. I have issues with my alternator and ac belts as well which to this day can't figure out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 I check mine about once per month. I have to keep a closer eye on it right now as i have changed so many things around, mainly the carb spacer. Since i rebuilt it, i went with screws that were slightly longer and used loctite to put the 2 pieces back together. The bolts that go from my carb to the manifold, had to be changed as well because the spacer is shorter then the factory spacer, so the factory studs would no longer work. i used lock washers and bolts with some loctite. It is a very good idea to check the carb bolts very often. I've had Brutus leave me on the road because of this issue with no wrench in site I do love the 300 Six, but when cranking and shutting down, it shakes violently and things work there way loose under there. I have issues with my alternator and ac belts as well which to this day can't figure out. George, Matthew or Dave had problems with those belts that was traced down to a loose bracket on the back side. I forget which of them I offered this advice to, but it's here on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 George, Matthew or Dave had problems with those belts that was traced down to a loose bracket on the back side. I forget which of them I offered this advice to, but it's here on the forum. Thanks Jim, i'll try to track it down. those belts have been giving me the blues for years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts