ArdWrknTrk Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Nice, they make good products! Now the magic question, where do you buy them, do they sell direct or only through another source. Waytek sells Littelfuse and Eaton/Bussman https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1369/Power-Distribution-Modules/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Waytek sells Littelfuse and Eaton/Bussman https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1369/Power-Distribution-Modules/ Excellent! good to know. I got lucky between P-n-P and Pete's I have two of those Chrysler PDCs from different cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Nice, they make good products! Now the magic question, where do you buy them, do they sell direct or only through another source. Bunch of the items are on Amazon and other sites. Only problem I am having is trying to find a plastic project box that is the right interior dimensions. I really would like a black ABS plastic box so I wont have to coat it, it would eventually fade into matching my plastic fenders. Closest I found is two different sizes one is 7.1" x 7.1" exterior and the other is 6.3" x 6.3" exterior. What I figured is I would need either a 6" x 6" interior space or I could re arrange and get the assembly to be 4 1/2" x 9" or if I opt out of the mounting modules and go with the snap on side mounts I could squeeze it down to 4 1/2" x 7 1/2". The one I was looking at that is 6.3" x 6.3" x 3.5" https://www.hammfg.com/files/products/1554/1554srb.jpg I like the idea of going this route cause I could mark the project box through the inner fender and drill holes and attach the box to my inner fender using existing holes. Down side is it wont look as professional and will require a phillips headed screw driver to take the lid off as I havent been able to find a latching lid that has a interior dimensions a little more than 6" x 6". Why I am seriously looking back at using the one I found posted above that isnt water proof. Could get a flat piece of plexiglass to bolt through existing holes in the fenders then could use screws to screw the top down to the plexiglass itself to seal the bottom up. Probably would be cheaper considering I could get the premade box for under $60 and I havent priced the modules but I think the modules with the project box would be over $60. But I can get a double maxi fuse module and hook my 3G charge wire to a 100A Maxi fuse then pull the charge wire right back out of the box and attach either directly to the battery or directly to the solenoid. Or I could attach it back to the four stud module that I would want to run to allow to make positive and negative attachments inside the box to and then can run a single wire to the battery itself for positive and for negative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Bunch of the items are on Amazon and other sites. Only problem I am having is trying to find a plastic project box that is the right interior dimensions. I really would like a black ABS plastic box so I wont have to coat it, it would eventually fade into matching my plastic fenders. Closest I found is two different sizes one is 7.1" x 7.1" exterior and the other is 6.3" x 6.3" exterior. What I figured is I would need either a 6" x 6" interior space or I could re arrange and get the assembly to be 4 1/2" x 9" or if I opt out of the mounting modules and go with the snap on side mounts I could squeeze it down to 4 1/2" x 7 1/2". The one I was looking at that is 6.3" x 6.3" x 3.5" https://www.hammfg.com/files/products/1554/1554srb.jpg I like the idea of going this route cause I could mark the project box through the inner fender and drill holes and attach the box to my inner fender using existing holes. Down side is it wont look as professional and will require a phillips headed screw driver to take the lid off as I havent been able to find a latching lid that has a interior dimensions a little more than 6" x 6". Why I am seriously looking back at using the one I found posted above that isnt water proof. Could get a flat piece of plexiglass to bolt through existing holes in the fenders then could use screws to screw the top down to the plexiglass itself to seal the bottom up. Probably would be cheaper considering I could get the premade box for under $60 and I havent priced the modules but I think the modules with the project box would be over $60. But I can get a double maxi fuse module and hook my 3G charge wire to a 100A Maxi fuse then pull the charge wire right back out of the box and attach either directly to the battery or directly to the solenoid. Or I could attach it back to the four stud module that I would want to run to allow to make positive and negative attachments inside the box to and then can run a single wire to the battery itself for positive and for negative. If you know someone with a 3D printer it's trivial to get whatever box you want. So long as it fits within the stage. It might take some time to print depending on volume and infill, but it would be exactly what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 If you know someone with a 3D printer it's trivial to get whatever box you want. So long as it fits within the stage. It might take some time to print depending on volume and infill, but it would be exactly what you want. Of course, can make anything with a 3D printer just about. I just have to make a decision for myself. I can free up one relay on the box I currently have by merging my low and high beam relays into one relay by using the center pin for low beam and have the relay triggered by the high beam. This would reduce the low beam trigger wire from my harness and save me some money in the long run by not having to buy as much SLX Crosslink wire for my rewire job. But the problem is still there even with freeing up one relay I would still need two free relays if I do install a roll bar with four KC Daylighter lights. I couldnt run all four off one relay as at nominal battery voltage its 31A and a mini 5 pin relay is rated for 30A. At 14.3V which is what the 3G regulator is set for I would be borderline at 28A. I could go with the LED Daylighters but they all are spot beams and from the reading Ive done, sounds like they have a narrower beam pattern than even the halogen spot lights. Which wont work for me as I had planned on flood lights on the outside and spot lights in the middle. I talked with one guy on youtube that has that panel I posted above he said it was ok but wasnt that great for him since its not really water proof. Im starting to wonder if I should just go with that and then water proof that by installing a plexiglass backer after I wire everything up. Down side to doing this it would make it hard to add circuits at a later date. But I could also just simply coat the back side of the terminals I have used with silicone to seal the terminals themselves. At least with silicone you could still disassemble the terminals with some force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 .... I can free up one relay on the box I currently have by merging my low and high beam relays into one relay by using the center pin for low beam and have the relay triggered by the high beam. .... If I understand what you are saying correctly, that would still put all of the low beam's current through the headlight switch, just like before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 .... I can free up one relay on the box I currently have by merging my low and high beam relays into one relay by using the center pin for low beam and have the relay triggered by the high beam. .... If I understand what you are saying correctly, that would still put all of the low beam's current through the headlight switch, just like before. He's saying to use 87 & 87A to toggle between high and low. 85 is trigger and 86 is ground. Power is still 30, but there is no "off" Cory lives in Canada. Ask him about DRL's. Rusty, My battery terminals aren't waterproof. My alternator isn't waterproof. My coil isn't waterproof and my carb isn't waterproof. I don't have a snorkel. If my truck goes under hydrolocked is going to be my biggest problem, not any of the other crap that gets soaked. Think about that..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 He's saying to use 87 & 87A to toggle between high and low. 85 is trigger and 86 is ground. Power is still 30, but there is no "off" Cory lives in Canada. Ask him about DRL's. Rusty, My battery terminals aren't waterproof. My alternator isn't waterproof. My coil isn't waterproof and my carb isn't waterproof. I don't have a snorkel. If my truck goes under hydrolocked is going to be my biggest problem, not any of the other crap that gets soaked. Think about that..... That's my point, Jim. I played with relay layouts a lot back when I was planning my harness and could not find a way to have full functionality with one relay. And I tried. But, if it can be done I'd sure like to know how. It would make things easier, for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 That's my point, Jim. I played with relay layouts a lot back when I was planning my harness and could not find a way to have full functionality with one relay. And I tried. But, if it can be done I'd sure like to know how. It would make things easier, for sure. I DO have a dual Hella relay where you can cascade the outputs, but it doesn't save much space over two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 .... I can free up one relay on the box I currently have by merging my low and high beam relays into one relay by using the center pin for low beam and have the relay triggered by the high beam. .... If I understand what you are saying correctly, that would still put all of the low beam's current through the headlight switch, just like before. The way I was thinking was using the center pin but thinking about it now it wouldnt work as doing it the way I thought of would mean the low beam would be on all the time unless I use another relay to break the power to the single relay which means I still end up with one relay for low beam and one for high beam. So I am still in the same point and would need a 8+ relay box to allow me room for expansion for more auxiliary lighting or if I decide to use a key hot for the sniper that is hot in crank as well as a trigger for a relay to supply straight battery voltage to the sniper at least this way the hand unit would actually show battery voltage and not battery voltage through the ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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