Dana 44 Axle Shaft Removal?

[JimJam300]

I'm trying to do my upper/lower ball joints and doing that requires removal of the axle shafts. Every guide and video has shown only the driver side, where after removing the spindle you simply pull the axle shaft out. Nothing I've found shows how to do the passenger side which has extra steps that I don't know how to perform.

Any guidance would be really great, as I am still pretty new to doing 95% of the work I've done so far on my Bronco.

[Gary Lewis]

Have you checked out the section from the factory shop manual here? Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials. Then the Front Axles & Differentials tab and then the Instructions tab then the Dana 44 tab.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The right side axle is retained by an 'e' clip inside the differential housing.

Some models of the D44 IFS have a right side bearing retainer with three external bolts.

Notes here: https://torqueking.com/product/40534/qu40534-right-side-diff-output-bearing-and-seal-kit-for-ford-dana-ifs/

[Nothing Special]

The right side axle is retained by an 'e' clip inside the differential housing.

Some models of the D44 IFS have a right side bearing retainer with three external bolts.

Notes here: https://torqueking.com/product/40534/qu40534-right-side-diff-output-bearing-and-seal-kit-for-ford-dana-ifs/

If all you're doing is the ball joints you don't need to take the inner axle out of the diff. Just do the same things you'd do on the driver's side. But before you slide the axle out you need to removed the "hose clamp" on the rubber boot that's on the axle between the center U-joint and the knuckle. After that the axle might not slide out freely because the rubber boot might be stuck to it. But you ought to be able to get the rubber loose from the axle shaft without too much trouble, and then it'll slide out just like the driver's side.

I don't know if it's necessary, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to mark how the inner and outer axles line up with each other so you can put it back the same way it was. "Phasing" the U-joints on the front axle isn't nearly as critical as it is on a driveshaft, but if it doesn't vibrate now it's cheap insurance to put it back the same way.

If you end up deciding that you need to replace the center U-joint then you'll probably need to take the diff off the swing arm and get the inner axle out (unless it's the older style where it comes off from the outside). Some people have been able to replace the U-joint using a ball joint press with the axle still in the vehicle. But personally I don't see that going well very often.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If all you're doing is the ball joints you don't need to take the inner axle out of the diff. Just do the same things you'd do on the driver's side. But before you slide the axle out you need to removed the "hose clamp" on the rubber boot that's on the axle between the center U-joint and the knuckle. After that the axle might not slide out freely because the rubber boot might be stuck to it. But you ought to be able to get the rubber loose from the axle shaft without too much trouble, and then it'll slide out just like the driver's side.

I don't know if it's necessary, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to mark how the inner and outer axles line up with each other so you can put it back the same way it was. "Phasing" the U-joints on the front axle isn't nearly as critical as it is on a driveshaft, but if it doesn't vibrate now it's cheap insurance to put it back the same way.

If you end up deciding that you need to replace the center U-joint then you'll probably need to take the diff off the swing arm and get the inner axle out (unless it's the older style where it comes off from the outside). Some people have been able to replace the U-joint using a ball joint press with the axle still in the vehicle. But personally I don't see that going well very often.

Bob, is the spline on that axle not indexed like a slip joint is?

I have a hard time remembering what I had for lunch, let alone what I did a decade ago...

[Nothing Special]

Bob, is the spline on that axle not indexed like a slip joint is?

I have a hard time remembering what I had for lunch, let alone what I did a decade ago...

I'm not 100% sure, but I think that it's not. (I last had mine apart this fall)

And full disclosure, I don't think I've ever remembered to mark mine before taking it apart, so I have no idea if I put mine together the same way it was or not. My '85 F-250 had a worse vibration after I did that. My '95 F-150 always had a terrible vibration, so that doesn't really say anything. And my current '97 F-250 has always been smooth (I've had it apart twice). So take it for what it's worth. But I still stand by what I said, even if I don't do it. If it doesn't vibrate now it wouldn't be a bad idea to put it back the same way.

More detail on why phasing is important on driveshafts but not so much on a TTB axle (in other words, quit reading if you don't care or already know ...

Single Cardan U-joints introduce a speed change when they rotate through an angle. If you have two single Cardan U-joints that are phased correctly (the yokes on the two ends of the shaft are lined up the same way) and the joints are operating through the same angle, then the speed change from the second joint cancels out the speed change from the first joint and the axle pinion turns the same speed as the transfer case output.

If they are not phased correctly, or if they are not operating through the same angle, then the speed changes don't cancel, so the axle pinion and the transfer case output don't turn the same speeds. But both want to go a constant speed (inertia). Since they want to but can't, there's a lot of force making one or both of them speed up and slow down. This manifests itself as vibration.

That's why it's important to not only phase the U-joints, but also to have the transfer case output and the axle pinion parallel with each other. That's how you make sure the U-joints operate through the same angles.

But in a TTB front axle, the U-joint in the center of the axle and the one in the passenger side knuckle don't operate through the same angles. The center U-joint is at the angle between the driver's side traction beam (which points up) and the passenger side traction beam (which points down). That angle changes as the suspension moves up and down. The steering knuckle U-joint is at the angle between the passenger side traction beam (which points down) and the spindle (which is close to horizontal). So the center joint usually operates through a bigger angle than the one in the knuckle. But when you steer the one in the knuckle sees a bigger angle, and in a different plane. So no matter how you phase the U-joints, they won't be operating through the same angle so you can't guarantee no vibration.

Still, even though no phasing is perfect, I'm sure there are ways to phase them that are better or worse. So doing it the way that seems to be working isn't a bad idea.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think that it's not. (I last had mine apart this fall)

And full disclosure, I don't think I've ever remembered to mark mine before taking it apart, so I have no idea if I put mine together the same way it was or not. My '85 F-250 had a worse vibration after I did that. My '95 F-150 always had a terrible vibration, so that doesn't really say anything. And my current '97 F-250 has always been smooth (I've had it apart twice). So take it for what it's worth. But I still stand by what I said, even if I don't do it. If it doesn't vibrate now it wouldn't be a bad idea to put it back the same way.

More detail on why phasing is important on driveshafts but not so much on a TTB axle (in other words, quit reading if you don't care or already know ...

Single Cardan U-joints introduce a speed change when they rotate through an angle. If you have two single Cardan U-joints that are phased correctly (the yokes on the two ends of the shaft are lined up the same way) and the joints are operating through the same angle, then the speed change from the second joint cancels out the speed change from the first joint and the axle pinion turns the same speed as the transfer case output.

If they are not phased correctly, or if they are not operating through the same angle, then the speed changes don't cancel, so the axle pinion and the transfer case output don't turn the same speeds. But both want to go a constant speed (inertia). Since they want to but can't, there's a lot of force making one or both of them speed up and slow down. This manifests itself as vibration.

That's why it's important to not only phase the U-joints, but also to have the transfer case output and the axle pinion parallel with each other. That's how you make sure the U-joints operate through the same angles.

But in a TTB front axle, the U-joint in the center of the axle and the one in the passenger side knuckle don't operate through the same angles. The center U-joint is at the angle between the driver's side traction beam (which points up) and the passenger side traction beam (which points down). That angle changes as the suspension moves up and down. The steering knuckle U-joint is at the angle between the passenger side traction beam (which points down) and the spindle (which is close to horizontal). So the center joint usually operates through a bigger angle than the one in the knuckle. But when you steer the one in the knuckle sees a bigger angle, and in a different plane. So no matter how you phase the U-joints, they won't be operating through the same angle so you can't guarantee no vibration.

Still, even though no phasing is perfect, I'm sure there are ways to phase them that are better or worse. So doing it the way that seems to be working isn't a bad idea.

I'm well aware, and understand exactly what you're saying.

In my mind it's always best to put things back exactly as you found them.

Chalk or a couple of punch marks are cheap insurance.

Thanks for your explanation!