ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Jim, he has a 1984, so will have the Dana 60 which uses the integral hub and drum. On Copper for brake lines, not a good idea, it gets brittle with age and if it is soft enough to bend, it is soft enough to expand un der the high pressures used. It's not copper, it's cupronickel. Exceeds all DOT, TUV, CE, EU standards. Very easy to flare and won't ever corrode. Maybe you should check into it. I'm not sure about how much snow Sam sees in New Mexico but here in the northeast steel lines don't last and stainless is very difficult to properly flare because it work hardens so quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 It's not copper, it's cupronickel. Exceeds all DOT, TUV, CE, EU standards. Very easy to flare and won't ever corrode. Maybe you should check into it. I'm not sure about how much snow Sam sees in New Mexico but here in the northeast steel lines don't last and stainless is very difficult to properly flare because it work hardens so quickly. Jim, copper was tossed out as a possibility, I believe after spending 30+ years in a laboratory (one 4 year stint 1966-1970 and 30 years starting Jan 1982) I know the difference between copper and CUNI alloys. Now begs the question, is it 90/10, 70/30 or something else? If I need to do any brake lines in the future I may look into that, right now everything including the konvertible has solid, non-rusted lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 By '86 all these heavier trucks had the Sterling 10.25" axle. Edit: Steve, I must have scrolled down to your post that I was replying to and seen "'86". D'oh! No problem popping the drums off and no left hand threads either! Jim............Sam's signiture says that his pickup is an 84. and unless it has the light 3/4 rearend with semi floating axles. Other wise, I am pretty sure that he has a full floater rearend and will have to remove the axle, then the hub and drum as a unit as I am pretty sure an 84 has inboard drums. Im guessing it really does not matter as they need to come off to do a proper inspection and to replace the parking brake cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Jim............Sam's signiture says that his pickup is an 84. and unless it has the light 3/4 rearend with semi floating axles. Other wise, I am pretty sure that he has a full floater rearend and will have to remove the axle, then the hub and drum as a unit as I am pretty sure an 84 has inboard drums. Im guessing it really does not matter as they need to come off to do a proper inspection and to replace the parking brake cables. Yep. I don't know where I got '86 from... But you're right, they have to come off to replace the cables and shoes anyhow. I hope it is something cheap and easy, like a wheel cylinder or the line at the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 Jim, copper was tossed out as a possibility, I believe after spending 30+ years in a laboratory (one 4 year stint 1966-1970 and 30 years starting Jan 1982) I know the difference between copper and CUNI alloys. Now begs the question, is it 90/10, 70/30 or something else? If I need to do any brake lines in the future I may look into that, right now everything including the konvertible has solid, non-rusted lines. I've seen 90/10 and 88.7/11.3 thrown around. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html I don't think the Germans and Nordic countries (where this has become compulsory) haven't done the engineering, or are interested in spending more than necessary, for no gain in safety. Go ahead and continue to use dead soft steel. There's just too much sodium and magnesium on the roads up here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 I've seen 90/10 and 88.7/11.3 thrown around. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html I don't think the Germans and Nordic countries (where this has become compulsory) haven't done the engineering, or are interested in spending more than necessary, for no gain in safety. Go ahead and continue to use dead soft steel. There's just too much sodium and magnesium on the roads up here. Ok, Jim, your link goes to a pretty good reference and it says 90/10 is what they use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 I've seen 90/10 and 88.7/11.3 thrown around. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html I don't think the Germans and Nordic countries (where this has become compulsory) haven't done the engineering, or are interested in spending more than necessary, for no gain in safety. Go ahead and continue to use dead soft steel. There's just too much sodium and magnesium on the roads up here. An intresting read on the copper brake lines, thanks Jim. I may have to rethink that and file it away for furture use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 An intresting read on the copper brake lines, thanks Jim. I may have to rethink that and file it away for furture use. Thanks for all the tips. I plan on getting this project done btwn Christmas and New Years. Until then, Im probably not going to pull the drums because I know thats a can of worms Ill need to address before the wheels go back on. What about the proportioning valve? Could I have a leak there? I guess this is a good excuse to clean all the dirt off the truck, so I can see leaks more easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Thanks for all the tips. I plan on getting this project done btwn Christmas and New Years. Until then, Im probably not going to pull the drums because I know thats a can of worms Ill need to address before the wheels go back on. What about the proportioning valve? Could I have a leak there? I guess this is a good excuse to clean all the dirt off the truck, so I can see leaks more easily. Some of the heavier trucks have a valve that adjusts rear brake bias depending on ride height. If laden it gives more brake in the rear. In a panic stop (where the rear comes up) it lessens the amount of brake pressure applied to the unloaded rear axle, to help them from locking up. I think Bill has this... You can have a leak anywhere the lines go. I'd probably fill the master and pump the brakes on dry ground, then see if there are any drips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Some of the heavier trucks have a valve that adjusts rear brake bias depending on ride height. If laden it gives more brake in the rear. In a panic stop (where the rear comes up) it lessens the amount of brake pressure applied to the unloaded rear axle, to help them from locking up. I think Bill has this... You can have a leak anywhere the lines go. I'd probably fill the master and pump the brakes on dry ground, then see if there are any drips. Big Blue had that valve, but it was apparently stuck giving very little brake to the rear as I never had good brakes and could slide the front and never the rear. In fact, with my car hauler trailer attached but the brakes on it disconnected I was almost pushed through an intersection with the front tires locked and no sound from the rear. And my trailer's tongue weight is LOTS, so there was plenty of weight on the rear. Now, after removing that valve, I have good brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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