Head Gaskets on 302 EFI

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for all the input, I am going to take her into a few shops and get some estimates for the work. The EFI engine seems a lot more daunting to switch out, with all the egr and sensors...

Most of the sensors you'll need to disconnect for an engine swap would need to be disconnected to pull the heads.

Saying it another way, if you pull the heads you'll have also pulled the intake, distributor, injectors & fuel rail, exhaust manifolds, etc. And the power steering pump, A/C compressor, and alternator will have to be laid to the side as they are on brackets that bolt to the heads. After doing all that to pull the engine I think you'd just have to additionally remove the radiator, radiator support, & grille.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I'd consider a crate engine and be done with it. If you buy that engine hoist it won't be a whole lot more work to replace the engine than just the heads.

The remanufactured longblock in my truck was $1,600 with a three year warranty ($1,300 without)

I installed it in March 2008.

Because I didn't have time to build the engine I wanted.

(I did install a cam and valve springs)

I took my time and it took three days with cleaning, painting, etc...

Twelve years on it has low oil pressure when really hot and needs a pan gasket anyhow.

So I picked up a Milodan high volume pump and shaft on eBay for $55.

I need to find a concrete floor, then I'll change the flywheel gear and pull the pan.

Even with new fluids and a few front dress parts (fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, backing plate and the usual tune up parts) I'm still well under $2,000 or $200 a year.

[Gsmblue]

The remanufactured longblock in my truck was $1,600 with a three year warranty ($1,300 without)

I installed it in March 2008.

Because I didn't have time to build the engine I wanted.

(I did install a cam and valve springs)

I took my time and it took three days with cleaning, painting, etc...

Twelve years on it has low oil pressure when really hot and needs a pan gasket anyhow.

So I picked up a Milodan high volume pump and shaft on eBay for $55.

I need to find a concrete floor, then I'll change the flywheel gear and pull the pan.

Even with new fluids and a few front dress parts (fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, backing plate and the usual tune up parts) I'm still well under $2,000 or $200 a year.

Hmmm... More food for thought for sure. Maybe I am back to the crate engine again!

I have a friend that offered to help with the engine on the bronco, I will see if he is willing to help do 2 engines!!!

[old55pete]

Hmmm... More food for thought for sure. Maybe I am back to the crate engine again!

I have a friend that offered to help with the engine on the bronco, I will see if he is willing to help do 2 engines!!!

Wow............ that blew up real quick. Went from a simple head gasket job to a complete engine replacement.

Once you get the upper manifold off, it looks just like any other engine. The 5.0 has only 3, mabey 4 extra sensors, keep in mind that all of the plugs are different for each sensor. The vacume lines are simple because they are all hard lined and color coded as to where they go. After the heads are off, there is not much left to take off and pull the engine out and do the rear main seal. You can have that done(out and in) before you get the heads back from the machine shop.

[Gsmblue]

Wow............ that blew up real quick. Went from a simple head gasket job to a complete engine replacement.

Once you get the upper manifold off, it looks just like any other engine. The 5.0 has only 3, mabey 4 extra sensors, keep in mind that all of the plugs are different for each sensor. The vacume lines are simple because they are all hard lined and color coded as to where they go. After the heads are off, there is not much left to take off and pull the engine out and do the rear main seal. You can have that done(out and in) before you get the heads back from the machine shop.

Yes it did blow up really quick!

If I had a shop I would just do a crate engine swap. But It is winter and I don't. I have complained endlessly to my wife about this, like it is her fault or something ;)

I think I am going down the route of getting some estimates for the engine work from a couple of local shops, let them tell me what they think needs doing an how much. Then I can make decisions from there.

Worst case scenario is crate engine in the spring I guess. I can take a few days off work and take my time if I have too.

[Machspeed]

Yes it did blow up really quick!

If I had a shop I would just do a crate engine swap. But It is winter and I don't. I have complained endlessly to my wife about this, like it is her fault or something ;)

I think I am going down the route of getting some estimates for the engine work from a couple of local shops, let them tell me what they think needs doing an how much. Then I can make decisions from there.

Worst case scenario is crate engine in the spring I guess. I can take a few days off work and take my time if I have too.

Maybe I missed it but how many miles are on this motor? I too am thinking a new long block. And yeah, I'm with the rest of the gang....no way I'm spending $3k on a head gasket job.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Maybe I missed it but how many miles are on this motor? I too am thinking a new long block. And yeah, I'm with the rest of the gang....no way I'm spending $3k on a head gasket job.

I think there's no way to know what has happened until the heads are pulled.

But if you keep driving it you risk flame cutting a trough in the deck, and then it's either getting cut to make a high compression engine or you need to find a block.

Or, the head is cracked, and you need to find a core head.

Pulling the heads is not difficult.

You probably want a good size breaker bar to get those head bolts though.

[85lebaront2]

I think there's no way to know what has happened until the heads are pulled.

But if you keep driving it you risk flame cutting a trough in the deck, and then it's either getting cut to make a high compression engine or you need to find a block.

Or, the head is cracked, and you need to find a core head.

Pulling the heads is not difficult.

You probably want a good size breaker bar to get those head bolts though.

Another item to consider, the 1985-86 EFI 302 heads are some of the worst heads Ford ever made for those engines. Other item, a good low mileage later model engine, in 1994 Ford went to a roller cam on the 5.0l/302 engine. The Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0L engines have either the GT40 or GT40P heads and are greatly improved, better rear seal, the roller cam etc. You would need to do two major changes, the timing cover and water pump are totally different on all the serpentine belt models (reverse rotation pump) and the Explorer engines are DIS (coil packs), but there is a synchronizer where the distributor goes and you can use your distributor. Firing order changed with the roller cam which will only effect your plug wires as the pre 1994 302s are all bank fired injection (two groups of four).

[ArdWrknTrk]

Another item to consider, the 1985-86 EFI 302 heads are some of the worst heads Ford ever made for those engines. Other item, a good low mileage later model engine, in 1994 Ford went to a roller cam on the 5.0l/302 engine. The Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0L engines have either the GT40 or GT40P heads and are greatly improved, better rear seal, the roller cam etc. You would need to do two major changes, the timing cover and water pump are totally different on all the serpentine belt models (reverse rotation pump) and the Explorer engines are DIS (coil packs), but there is a synchronizer where the distributor goes and you can use your distributor. Firing order changed with the roller cam which will only effect your plug wires as the pre 1994 302s are all bank fired injection (two groups of four).

Yup. The Explorer engine is capable of much more in stock form.

Roller block is not going to wear cam and lifters either.

Maybe find one at a junkyard and fix that if you find the block cut when you pull the heads.

Don't forget that the exhaust is different.

[Gsmblue]

Yup. The Explorer engine is capable of much more in stock form.

Roller block is not going to wear cam and lifters either.

Maybe find one at a junkyard and fix that if you find the block cut when you pull the heads.

Don't forget that the exhaust is different.

The engine is at approx 130k miles. Rear main seal is leaking, coolant getting into oil and blowing out exhaust, when radiator cap removed can see coolant bubbling away. Using a bit a coolant now, a quart a month if driven daily.

I have some calls in to shops locally about options and hoping I hear something sensible back. But I doubt i will hear anything under $4k - which is what I have put aside for the Bronco engine... funny how these things work out...

Good info on the exploder engine!

If not I am thinking of doing one of 2 things.

1. Source an engine from the breakers

- Pros - cheap, ~$500-$600, pretty quick to get. Get a newer Exploder engine.

- Cons - who knows what I am getting... will take work to clean up and prep. I don't know enough to make sure I am getting all the parts I need. Space needed for 2 pulled engines, hoist and stands. It is winter and I don't have a shop as such..

2. Buy a reman long block

- Pros - good clean block. easy to dress, can change a few things as needed

- Cons - time, a lot of work, the inevitable having to buy 20 unforeseen parts, never done this before, worried about the things I don't know.

Still not sure what to do. The biggest issue is I just don't have an experienced friend to help and as you all know I am regularly out of my depth here!