ArdWrknTrk Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 I got a good picture of the flexplate teeth. I am thinking this is salvageable. Take a small file to the burrs and call it good? I have a new starter that i bought for the engine rebuild and forgot about. It is a duralast gold, it is slightly smaller than the unit i pulled off. You don't have anything to lose! Is the new starter small enough to R&R with the headers in place? If not I'd be pulling the pieces together needed for a PMGR, because I wouldn't ever want to be stuck removing my exhaust to change another starter. (and expect that if it's that close the starter is being broiled) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 You don't have anything to lose! Is the new starter small enough to R&R with the headers in place? If not I'd be pulling the pieces together needed for a PMGR, because I wouldn't ever want to be stuck removing my exhaust to change another starter. (and expect that if it's that close the starter is being broiled) Thanks Jim. Yeah, at this point I have nothing to loose. I think it can slip by the headers. It is significantly smaller. So the teeth are deburred, they were not bad, the closer you look the better it is. New starter is in and hooked up. Headers connected at the exhaust end. I have to break for some work, but after I am going to dig some anti seize out and put the headers back on to the block. Also, I am going to start it at this position with the worn teeth. If it starts here we are good. If it doesn't then it goes to the shop. It makes no sense to move the flex plate to good teeth and be caught out when at the grocery store! Thanks for the help - hopefully one day someone searches for this issue and finds these posts helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Thanks Jim. Yeah, at this point I have nothing to loose. I think it can slip by the headers. It is significantly smaller. So the teeth are deburred, they were not bad, the closer you look the better it is. New starter is in and hooked up. Headers connected at the exhaust end. I have to break for some work, but after I am going to dig some anti seize out and put the headers back on to the block. Also, I am going to start it at this position with the worn teeth. If it starts here we are good. If it doesn't then it goes to the shop. It makes no sense to move the flex plate to good teeth and be caught out when at the grocery store! Thanks for the help - hopefully one day someone searches for this issue and finds these posts helpful! I wish you luck! 🤞 Your V-8 truck will tend to stop rotating at the same place anyhow. When you shut it off it coasts around because of the mass of the crank and will stop on the compression stroke of a cylinder. When I was having major starter troubles a decade back I did a little experiment to note that position over a dozen or more times. I think only once did it stop somewhere else, and (of course) that was 90° away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 I wish you luck! 🤞 Your V-8 truck will tend to stop rotating at the same place anyhow. When you shut it off it coasts around because of the mass of the crank and will stop on the compression stroke of a cylinder. When I was having major starter troubles a decade back I did a little experiment to note that position over a dozen or more times. I think only once did it stop somewhere else, and (of course) that was 90° away. Wow, that is interesting. So that spot will wear more over time. The good news is that it fired right up. I have to assume a weak throw on the bendix?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Wow, that is interesting. So that spot will wear more over time. The good news is that it fired right up. I have to assume a weak throw on the bendix?! Congrat's! Yes, a weak throw would do that. Bet that PMGR spins it nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Thanks Gary. I don't have a O2 port on my new exhaust. So I will pop into the exhaust shop and chat with them before ordering the AES AFR. With the transmission and transferase I popped under the truck and took these pics: Transfer case drain plug Transfer case pinion leak Oil pain drip Bell housing drip I emailed the pics to the shop. I got a response back already saying they will review and get back to me next week. So let's see what happens. This is the last chance for this very suss transmission shop. Hi. Have read a little bit about the AOD slipping. Could it be that your TV cable is not correctly adjusted ? Its easy to correct. Seeing what you have done I am sure you can fix the leaks yourself. The leak at the bell housing is the more difficult. Especially on gravel:nabble_smiley_beam: In the photo the oil looks brown to me. Which suggests engine oil. Could come from the crank shaft seal. Greetings Stein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 Hi. Have read a little bit about the AOD slipping. Could it be that your TV cable is not correctly adjusted ? Its easy to correct. Seeing what you have done I am sure you can fix the leaks yourself. The leak at the bell housing is the more difficult. Especially on gravel:nabble_smiley_beam: In the photo the oil looks brown to me. Which suggests engine oil. Could come from the crank shaft seal. Greetings Stein Thanks for the tips. The pic was bad, the oil is definitely red. The transmission place did tighten up the bolts on the oil pan and the drain plug on the transfer case. The only leak now is the at the yoke of the transfer case. So let’s see how this all goes. I know the AOD is normally a cable, but I am pretty sure this set up is using a rod/link… Today was fun, I tinkered with the carb. I took some vacuum readings at the manifold port, it was 14-15. I think the scale is inches Hg, I was using the harbor freight gauge. So I changed the springs in the carb that are connected to the rods to the pink 7 inches ones, from the stock silver ones that are very squishy and went for a drive. Everything is behaving better. There is a little stutter but no backfire. The Edelbrock 1406 is a mystery! I am running ethanol free gas, about 14degrees of timing at idle. Running one stage rich on cruise and stock on power, pink springs and I have the pump link set to the inside hole.Once the AFR is hooked up I will be able to tune it much better, I just think this engine wants more everything! I never got a build sheet from the engine shop so I need to call them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 Thanks for the tips. The pic was bad, the oil is definitely red. The transmission place did tighten up the bolts on the oil pan and the drain plug on the transfer case. The only leak now is the at the yoke of the transfer case. So let’s see how this all goes. I know the AOD is normally a cable, but I am pretty sure this set up is using a rod/link… Today was fun, I tinkered with the carb. I took some vacuum readings at the manifold port, it was 14-15. I think the scale is inches Hg, I was using the harbor freight gauge. So I changed the springs in the carb that are connected to the rods to the pink 7 inches ones, from the stock silver ones that are very squishy and went for a drive. Everything is behaving better. There is a little stutter but no backfire. The Edelbrock 1406 is a mystery! I am running ethanol free gas, about 14degrees of timing at idle. Running one stage rich on cruise and stock on power, pink springs and I have the pump link set to the inside hole.Once the AFR is hooked up I will be able to tune it much better, I just think this engine wants more everything! I never got a build sheet from the engine shop so I need to call them. Yes, some AOD's had rods and some had cables. Sounds like you have a bit of a cam if you are only getting 14 - 15 inches of vacuum. Normally I'd expect 18". So you may well need to fatten up the mix. But you are right, you need the AFR meter working to do the tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefire Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 Thanks for the tips. The pic was bad, the oil is definitely red. The transmission place did tighten up the bolts on the oil pan and the drain plug on the transfer case. The only leak now is the at the yoke of the transfer case. So let’s see how this all goes. I know the AOD is normally a cable, but I am pretty sure this set up is using a rod/link… Today was fun, I tinkered with the carb. I took some vacuum readings at the manifold port, it was 14-15. I think the scale is inches Hg, I was using the harbor freight gauge. So I changed the springs in the carb that are connected to the rods to the pink 7 inches ones, from the stock silver ones that are very squishy and went for a drive. Everything is behaving better. There is a little stutter but no backfire. The Edelbrock 1406 is a mystery! I am running ethanol free gas, about 14degrees of timing at idle. Running one stage rich on cruise and stock on power, pink springs and I have the pump link set to the inside hole.Once the AFR is hooked up I will be able to tune it much better, I just think this engine wants more everything! I never got a build sheet from the engine shop so I need to call them. Good news on the leaks. Replacing the seal at the transfercase , Simmerring in Norway, is no problem. If you have to do it your self. Working on carburetors is a mystery for most of us. It gets even more difficult if your carburetor is not 100% OK. My problems ended when I bought a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 Good news on the leaks. Replacing the seal at the transfercase , Simmerring in Norway, is no problem. If you have to do it your self. Working on carburetors is a mystery for most of us. It gets even more difficult if your carburetor is not 100% OK. My problems ended when I bought a new one. Getting the manifold vacuum reading helped tremendously. I set the best lean idle. I really think the AFR gauge is key and I think this engine wants more gas! Looking forward to finding out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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