Gary Lewis Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 A little more progress today. I decided to tackle some easy stuff. Replaced rear light clusters and bulbs Replaced all the seals for the sliding rear window. Replaced ash tray. Cleaned up the tailgate insert panel So a nice 2 hours in the sun! 2 big take aways: 1. The replacement window seals are tight and the window is not able to go all the way up on its own. I am hoping it all frees up in time and it is not an old slow motor issue. 2. The internal electrics are a joke. none of the interior lights work (cabin or dash), the reverse lights don't work, the hazard lights don't work. There is extra aftermarket wiring near the fuse box and at the back bumper. I will prob have to ask for help on some of this... I will get some pics first... Silicone spray helps the windows slide. Dries fairly clear, but don't get it on everything. But I've had to take the motors apart and lube them to get more oomph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Silicone spray helps the windows slide. Dries fairly clear, but don't get it on everything. But I've had to take the motors apart and lube them to get more oomph. Thanks Gary, I was going to do that, but I have no idea where my silicon spray is!!! As I have the tailgate apart I should lube the motor too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Thanks Gary, I was going to do that, but I have no idea where my silicon spray is!!! As I have the tailgate apart I should lube the motor too.. I haven't done a Bronco tailgate, but the doors I've done have required drilling the rivets out and then using 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to secure them back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 I haven't done a Bronco tailgate, but the doors I've done have required drilling the rivets out and then using 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to secure them back. Sounds like PITA !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Sounds like PITA !!! Jein. The steel stud of the rivets they used stick out of the aluminum rivet, making it difficult to drill in the center. So I've used a Dremel to slice off the stud even with the aluminum, which makes it less difficult. But it isn't easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Jein. The steel stud of the rivets they used stick out of the aluminum rivet, making it difficult to drill in the center. So I've used a Dremel to slice off the stud even with the aluminum, which makes it less difficult. But it isn't easy. The rivets might have changed by '97, but when I took my door apart I used a punch to drive the stud out (back into the door), then drilled out the aluminum rivet easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Jein. The steel stud of the rivets they used stick out of the aluminum rivet, making it difficult to drill in the center. So I've used a Dremel to slice off the stud even with the aluminum, which makes it less difficult. But it isn't easy. The rivets might have changed by '97, but when I took my door apart I used a punch to drive the stud out (back into the door), then drilled out the aluminum rivet easily. I'll have to try that next time. Would be a lot easier and leave a cleaner hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Jein. The steel stud of the rivets they used stick out of the aluminum rivet, making it difficult to drill in the center. So I've used a Dremel to slice off the stud even with the aluminum, which makes it less difficult. But it isn't easy. The rivets might have changed by '97, but when I took my door apart I used a punch to drive the stud out (back into the door), then drilled out the aluminum rivet easily. I used the same technique for my son's 1984 F150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 Jein. The steel stud of the rivets they used stick out of the aluminum rivet, making it difficult to drill in the center. So I've used a Dremel to slice off the stud even with the aluminum, which makes it less difficult. But it isn't easy. The rivets might have changed by '97, but when I took my door apart I used a punch to drive the stud out (back into the door), then drilled out the aluminum rivet easily. I used the same technique for my son's 1984 F150. Thanks for all the tips. I get back home at the weekend and the wife leaves for 10 days on Tuesday, so i am hoping to tackle: Thermostat housing/gasket Oil pressure sender Brake hoses Rocker covers Weather strips Internal electrics It is a big list... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Thanks for all the tips. I get back home at the weekend and the wife leaves for 10 days on Tuesday, so i am hoping to tackle: Thermostat housing/gasket Oil pressure sender Brake hoses Rocker covers Weather strips Internal electrics It is a big list... It is a big list, but should be doable. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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