Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 '83 was the year the M/400 went away and the 460 came back to trucks.(and vans?) I'm not at all surprised a new pump & sender unit was introduced along with it. I don't think it was deleted from the MPC, although I can check my late 80's MPC to see. But I found this entry for the fuel sender, which has some implications: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 I don't think it was deleted from the MPC, although I can check my late 80's MPC to see. But I found this entry for the fuel sender, which has some implications: I couldn't wait. E3UZ 9H307 ID # crosses to E0UZ 9350-C part #. And, I think I hit pay dirt: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Do you know what the sender reads at each extreme, and if the resistance increases smoothly? What you read off the pump itself is an engineering number, not a part number. You need the secret decoder ring (or an MPC) to determine a part number. Sender floats and rollover valve grommets are available -if everything else is working- from many sources. Mustang resto dealers and places like NPD will have one. If the inside of the tank looks like the sender I'd just replace it. By the time you burn the rust and corrosion out with acid, rinse it out with solvent like acetone and get it RedKote'd it is going cost more. Not to mention the effort and that it will always be as old and thin as it is now. The trucks never did have a booster pump. No need. Plenty of volume and pressure at the carb. Perhaps something as long as a cutaway RV did get an extra pump, but I imagine the PO put a band-aid on a bullet wound just to get the rig around. ETA: The sock is torn. No wonder the pump and fuel system are contaminated. Not sure about the sender, I never seen the guage move while on this tank.. go figure all the holes in the float. To be honest , I've given it all the time I can afford but just can't seem to decifer the electrical schematics.. something just hasn't clicked yet. I did make it all the way from always hot to hot with key in run. I've good up to the oil sending unit, but couldn't wrap my head around the relay, and transfer switch..I'm a carpenter moon lighting as a mechanic....I'm inquisitive, and read a lot about what I'm doing here, you-all have been a tremendous help. So with that said I had a 50/50 chance here to be a parts thrower, or a troubleshooter. I think I got lucky deciding to just pull the tank and pump without verification that there was indeed power to that circuit. I couldn't run the rig, and had nobody to crank it over while I checked for power, and I couldn't come up with any solutions on how to do that. I'm sure if I jumpered this or jumpered that it would have worked out, but again I couldn't make sense of the electrical schematic In my uneducated opinion the inside of the tank didn't seem to bad, I think it'll clean up. What's this red kite? On a Google search I come up with an antibacterial farm spray for livestock🤷. The sock was intact but extremely brittle. I got it coming out the tank, the the weight of itself being wet almost ripped it off the rest of the way. Looking forward to hearing about fuel pump options, I'd like to just drop a whole new unit in it it's still available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 I couldn't wait. E3UZ 9H307 ID # crosses to E0UZ 9350-C part #. And, I think I hit pay dirt: Hallelujah, I was on the edge of my seat as well. Eagerly waiting to hear what I can use. Thank you so much for finding that info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Not sure about the sender, I never seen the guage move while on this tank.. go figure all the holes in the float. To be honest , I've given it all the time I can afford but just can't seem to decifer the electrical schematics.. something just hasn't clicked yet. I did make it all the way from always hot to hot with key in run. I've good up to the oil sending unit, but couldn't wrap my head around the relay, and transfer switch..I'm a carpenter moon lighting as a mechanic....I'm inquisitive, and read a lot about what I'm doing here, you-all have been a tremendous help. So with that said I had a 50/50 chance here to be a parts thrower, or a troubleshooter. I think I got lucky deciding to just pull the tank and pump without verification that there was indeed power to that circuit. I couldn't run the rig, and had nobody to crank it over while I checked for power, and I couldn't come up with any solutions on how to do that. I'm sure if I jumpered this or jumpered that it would have worked out, but again I couldn't make sense of the electrical schematic In my uneducated opinion the inside of the tank didn't seem to bad, I think it'll clean up. What's this red kite? On a Google search I come up with an antibacterial farm spray for livestock🤷. The sock was intact but extremely brittle. I got it coming out the tank, the the weight of itself being wet almost ripped it off the rest of the way. Looking forward to hearing about fuel pump options, I'd like to just drop a whole new unit in it it's still available. Well, if you want to try and salvage the tank you have, Damon has been making this stuff for decades. Be sure to let it thoroughly dry before putting into service. http://damonq.com/red-kote.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Hallelujah, I was on the edge of my seat as well. Eagerly waiting to hear what I can use. Thank you so much for finding that info. It's good to see how many hits there are on that assembly. Sometimes (like in my one year wonder) the sender/pickup assemblies are virtually unobtainable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Well, if you want to try and salvage the tank you have, Damon has been making this stuff for decades. Be sure to let it thoroughly dry before putting into service. http://damonq.com/red-kote.html Because my opinion was uneducated I thought twice, and bought a new tank $90 bucks, I would be dumb not to. Thank you On a side note for some reason I have to reset my password everytime I log into the forum ugh!! Wonder why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Because my opinion was uneducated I thought twice, and bought a new tank $90 bucks, I would be dumb not to. Thank you On a side note for some reason I have to reset my password everytime I log into the forum ugh!! Wonder why When you navigate to the forum are you using the link at the bottom of an email notification? Do you have the 'keep me logged in' box checked? Do you have Nabble whitelisted to allow cookies on your device? It is a valid question to ask how you would go about reconditioning the tank for use. But as Gary said when he first saw your pump/sender assembly,"Ugh, I don't think I've seen one so bad" Sometimes Spectra offers a complete drop in unit. Tank with pump, sender and roll over valve installed. straps included. Having replaced both tanks and senders in my truck by piecing the bits together: trying to make sure X strap fits X tank with X stone guard in X chassis can be a challenge. Since you have two tanks and a generator we need to look into whether your switching valve functions properly. With a new pump in the tank the one on the frame rail can probably be swapped for a fuel filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 When you navigate to the forum are you using the link at the bottom of an email notification? Do you have the 'keep me logged in' box checked? Do you have Nabble whitelisted to allow cookies on your device? It is a valid question to ask how you would go about reconditioning the tank for use. But as Gary said when he first saw your pump/sender assembly,"Ugh, I don't think I've seen one so bad" Sometimes Spectra offers a complete drop in unit. Tank with pump, sender and roll over valve installed. straps included. Having replaced both tanks and senders in my truck by piecing the bits together: trying to make sure X strap fits X tank with X stone guard in X chassis can be a challenge. Since you have two tanks and a generator we need to look into whether your switching valve functions properly. With a new pump in the tank the one on the frame rail can probably be swapped for a fuel filter. Yes I'm using the link in the email. Since I asked the question it hasn't asked me for a password. Weird... I think I checked the box, I usually do, and I don't remember being asked about cookies. But I'll keep an eye out. I've asked a couple of local Auto parts stores and neither O'Riley's, nor Napa were able to come up with a complete assembly. Napa so far had the best options for cleaning up what I had and rebuilding it, (new pump, new strainer, new float to clip on the sender), but is still looking for a sender. I told them id check to see if I was going to need one .They seemed a little high on price. 70.00 for the good life time warranty pump, then 20,00 DOLLARS FOR 0 THE LITTLE REPLACEMENT FLOAT, 15 DOLLARS FOR THE STRAINER Do you know what the values would be with I assume an ohm meter? Resistance on empty, then on full? I always thought that the Generator ran on the front tank, but after pulling it out there was only 2 hoses, the supply and return. So the rear must have three hoses. Kinda of unrelated, but is there a inline check valve I can put on the generator line? The crank time I feel is excessive between starts because the fuel line drains back to the the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Yes I'm using the link in the email. Since I asked the question it hasn't asked me for a password. Weird... I think I checked the box, I usually do, and I don't remember being asked about cookies. But I'll keep an eye out. I've asked a couple of local Auto parts stores and neither O'Riley's, nor Napa were able to come up with a complete assembly. Napa so far had the best options for cleaning up what I had and rebuilding it, (new pump, new strainer, new float to clip on the sender), but is still looking for a sender. I told them id check to see if I was going to need one .They seemed a little high on price. 70.00 for the good life time warranty pump, then 20,00 DOLLARS FOR 0 THE LITTLE REPLACEMENT FLOAT, 15 DOLLARS FOR THE STRAINER Do you know what the values would be with I assume an ohm meter? Resistance on empty, then on full? I always thought that the Generator ran on the front tank, but after pulling it out there was only 2 hoses, the supply and return. So the rear must have three hoses. Kinda of unrelated, but is there a inline check valve I can put on the generator line? The crank time I feel is excessive between starts because the fuel line drains back to the the tank. Have you tried Rock Auto? I've had problems with them, but for the most part they are one of the most complete suppliers around. And don't miss Jim's comment about buying a complete system. I did. As for the check valve, this search turned up several. And the assortment on Amazon looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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