New Guy here, anyone seen my paddle

[kramttocs]

Gary - do you happen to have 84-24-14?

I don't see it on the TSB index page.

Are you wanting to go back to the stock setup and get rid of the aftermarket pump?

If keeping it is an option, can you see what kind of fuel pressure you are getting at the carb?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary - do you happen to have 84-24-14?

I don't see it on the TSB index page.

Duh!

I put it up on a new tab on Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems. But that page needs some organizational help as it is just getting things clagged on. Any volunteers?

[26ftcobraBBF]

Are you wanting to go back to the stock setup and get rid of the aftermarket pump?

If keeping it is an option, can you see what kind of fuel pressure you are getting at the carb?

I would like to go to back to stock. Then eventually make modifications as I see fit vursus trying to figure it out down the road, (literally). Unless there's as better option to that makes more sense for this particular setup. I'd like to drop the tanks to get a look at the condition their in anyhow and replace hoses. My Onan gen. pulls has from the front tank and what amount of hose I could get to recently to replace was in bad shape . Also my fuel guage don't work on the front tank. I'd like to repair that as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would like to go to back to stock. Then eventually make modifications as I see fit vursus trying to figure it out down the road, (literally). Unless there's as better option to that makes more sense for this particular setup. I'd like to drop the tanks to get a look at the condition their in anyhow and replace hoses. My Onan gen. pulls has from the front tank and what amount of hose I could get to recently to replace was in bad shape . Also my fuel guage don't work on the front tank. I'd like to repair that as well.

In the first post, you said the gauge wasn't working on the front tank.

I'm confused......

My truck sucks all the way to the timing case, behind the power steering pump.

It works just fine as long as you don't have a pinhole to let air in.

I've trouble shoot more than a few of these HFH systems.

What model Holley do you have there?

Honestly, it seems more like your secondaries aren't opening.

[26ftcobraBBF]

In the first post, you said the gauge wasn't working on the front tank.

I'm confused......

My truck sucks all the way to the timing case, behind the power steering pump.

It works just fine as long as you don't have a pinhole to let air in.

I've trouble shoot more than a few of these HFH systems.

What model Holley do you have there?

Honestly, it seems more like your secondaries aren't opening.

Yes sir, to be specific, the guage only works on the rear tank. When switched to the front tank the guage goes to "E" regardless of how much fuel is in it.

The Carb, it a brand new Holley street warrior P/N 0-80457s (electric choke). Maybe 300 miles on it.

This is the carb that Holley Tech support recommend for the Cobra.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes sir, to be specific, the guage only works on the rear tank. When switched to the front tank the guage goes to "E" regardless of how much fuel is in it.

The Carb, it a brand new Holley street warrior P/N 0-80457s (electric choke). Maybe 300 miles on it.

This is the carb that Holley Tech support recommend for the Cobra.

Ok, I'm sorry, I misunderstood the first post in this thread.

Your sender could be open, or it could be as simple as the float has sunk on the end of the arm.

You'd have to take it out to see if the gauge or resistance changes when you move the arm up and down.

That's a good carburetor for these trucks.

I used one for probably seven years without any major problems.

It did come with the clutch screws in the secondary plate loose.

This kept the float from returning and hydrolocked my engine when I first installed it.

So check that rear bowl is able to get fuel.

If you think you are running short of fuel you should jumper the oil pressure safety and test for volume.

Disconnect the carb line from the tee, use another piece of *hose to lead into a container.

A 2 litre soda bottle gives plenty of room to splash and PET isn't immediately affected by petroleum.

Get in the cab with your stopwatch and turn the key to run for 15 seconds.

What you are trying to determine is how much fuel per minute, but you probably don't want a quart of gasoline hanging around uncovered.

You have to measure exactly how much fuel you got, before a bunch evaporates.

I use my Ratio Rite 2 cycle beaker but you could pick up a plastic measuring cup at the dollar store.

 

[26ftcobraBBF]

Ok, I'm sorry, I misunderstood the first post in this thread.

Your sender could be open, or it could be as simple as the float has sunk on the end of the arm.

You'd have to take it out to see if the gauge or resistance changes when you move the arm up and down.

That's a good carburetor for these trucks.

I used one for probably seven years without any major problems.

It did come with the clutch screws in the secondary plate loose.

This kept the float from returning and hydrolocked my engine when I first installed it.

So check that rear bowl is able to get fuel.

If you think you are running short of fuel you should jumper the oil pressure safety and test for volume.

Disconnect the carb line from the tee, use another piece of *hose to lead into a container.

A 2 litre soda bottle gives plenty of room to splash and PET isn't immediately affected by petroleum.

Get in the cab with your stopwatch and turn the key to run for 15 seconds.

What you are trying to determine is how much fuel per minute, but you probably don't want a quart of gasoline hanging around uncovered.

You have to measure exactly how much fuel you got, before a bunch evaporates.

I use my Ratio Rite 2 cycle beaker but you could pick up a plastic measuring cup at the dollar store.

Ok I'll try that with the fuel volume. Couple questions... When you say the Tee, are you talking about the vapor seperator? Upstream or down stream of that? How much fuel should I have in my measuring cup in 15 seconds?

The oil pressure sending unit won't need to be jumpered... Remember I said Jerry was working on this before I got hands on it??? Yea.... Well ... Currently my electric fuel pump is ran off a piece of romex thats pushed into the heater blower motor circuit on one side of the fuse in the fuse box.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok I'll try that with the fuel volume. Couple questions... When you say the Tee, are you talking about the vapor seperator? Upstream or down stream of that? How much fuel should I have in my measuring cup in 15 seconds?

The oil pressure sending unit won't need to be jumpered... Remember I said Jerry was working on this before I got hands on it??? Yea.... Well ... Currently my electric fuel pump is ran off a piece of romex thats pushed into the heater blower motor circuit on one side of the fuse in the fuse box.

You can see that you should have a quart in 15 seconds (60 gallons an hour) if you follow the link to Gary's Hot Fuel Handling page in the documentation section and open the rightmost tab.

You really should get rid of Jerry's wiring.

Do you have a selector valve to deal with?

Power should come from the inertia switch in the passenger kick panel to a relay by the driver's side hood hinge.

The relay is pulled closed by a circuit that is switched by the oil pressure switch.

Additionally, the oil pressure switch is bypassed with a wire that runs directly to the fuel pump relay while the starter is engaged.

This is so the pump will prime the system before oil pressure builds.

I know it may seem complex, but it is safe, and works well if not screwed up by some hack.

[26ftcobraBBF]

You can see that you should have a quart in 15 seconds (60 gallons an hour) if you follow the link to Gary's Hot Fuel Handling page in the documentation section and open the rightmost tab.

You really should get rid of Jerry's wiring.

Do you have a selector valve to deal with?

Power should come from the inertia switch in the passenger kick panel to a relay by the driver's side hood hinge.

The relay is pulled closed by a circuit that is switched by the oil pressure switch.

Additionally, the oil pressure switch is bypassed with a wire that runs directly to the fuel pump relay while the starter is engaged.

This is so the pump will prime the system before oil pressure builds.

I know it may seem complex, but it is safe, and works well if not screwed up by some hack.

I GOT SOME NUMBERS!!

Fuel volume just after the pump on the frame rail I got 10 oz in15 seconds.

Fuel volume at the engine just after the pressure regulator/Vapor return I got 6 oz in 15 seconds....

Not enough.... So why? Pump bad? Or is it having to pull through an in tank pump that's not working?

I would like to hear more about the sequence of events sort of speak when you turn the key on till power is at the original in tank pump.

I went and bought me a Power Probe... If like to make it simple figure out which color wire is the hot wire on each of the fuel pumps, and put power to it through the probe and listen to see if I hear it.

[Gary Lewis]

I GOT SOME NUMBERS!!

Fuel volume just after the pump on the frame rail I got 10 oz in15 seconds.

Fuel volume at the engine just after the pressure regulator/Vapor return I got 6 oz in 15 seconds....

Not enough.... So why? Pump bad? Or is it having to pull through an in tank pump that's not working?

I would like to hear more about the sequence of events sort of speak when you turn the key on till power is at the original in tank pump.

I went and bought me a Power Probe... If like to make it simple figure out which color wire is the hot wire on each of the fuel pumps, and put power to it through the probe and listen to see if I hear it.

I don't know what #'s you should be getting, so I'll let Jim speak to that.

But, for an overview of how the system works as well as some troubleshooting tips you should read TSB 84-24-14. It is on the tab named that on the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems.