Howdy 1986 f150 5.0 efi springtown TX

[Gary Lewis]

I found a CD rom on ebay with all the manuals for $25. Now I just gotta find a computer that still reads cds. Lol

USB DVD drives are cheap.

And the pump should run if you give it power. You can check its resistance, but I don't know what it should be. Just that it should run.

Last, you are on the map!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry Gary I must've jumped youre message. I would love to be added to the map. Springtown TX 76082

I'm trying to determine if the fuel pump works. I brought a battery underneath the truck disconnected the pump and jumped the positive and negative terminal to the positive and negative terminal on the battery. The pump clicks but thats it. I would it expect it to hum trying to pump. Is the click normal? Would ohming the pump tell me if its bad?

I do see a orange/white wire spliced between pin 26, the TPS, EGR and MAP sensor.

Will the engine try to catch on starting fluid?

You probably have a high pressure pump and fuel reservoir beneath the driver, inside the fuel rail.

If that filter is plugged you won't get fuel to the injector rail.

Is the fuse good? It the inertia cutoff switch set? Is the fuel pump relay closing?

If the engine is turning over the Profile Ignition Pickup should be sending a pulse to the computer telling it to close the fuel pump relay.

But you need to start figuring out if the power is even there to send to the pumps. (both low pressure-in the tank- and high pressure-on the rail-)

[ColbyDC]

I do see a orange/white wire spliced between pin 26, the TPS, EGR and MAP sensor.

Will the engine try to catch on starting fluid?

You probably have a high pressure pump and fuel reservoir beneath the driver, inside the fuel rail.

If that filter is plugged you won't get fuel to the injector rail.

Is the fuse good? It the inertia cutoff switch set? Is the fuel pump relay closing?

If the engine is turning over the Profile Ignition Pickup should be sending a pulse to the computer telling it to close the fuel pump relay.

But you need to start figuring out if the power is even there to send to the pumps. (both low pressure-in the tank- and high pressure-on the rail-)

I'll have to look into getting one Gary.

Yes sir ive got 12 volts going to the pump. From what I've read the pump is supposed to charge for 3 seconds. I'm not getting one mississippi out of mine. Just a flash of 12 volts. Inertia switch was popped out I pressed it back in. I haven't tested the low pressure in the tanks yet. I plan on dropping them to clean the front one at least. It doesn't have a cap on it. No telling what's in there or how long it's been off. Gonna order a filter as well.

[ColbyDC]

I do see a orange/white wire spliced between pin 26, the TPS, EGR and MAP sensor.

Will the engine try to catch on starting fluid?

You probably have a high pressure pump and fuel reservoir beneath the driver, inside the fuel rail.

If that filter is plugged you won't get fuel to the injector rail.

Is the fuse good? It the inertia cutoff switch set? Is the fuel pump relay closing?

If the engine is turning over the Profile Ignition Pickup should be sending a pulse to the computer telling it to close the fuel pump relay.

But you need to start figuring out if the power is even there to send to the pumps. (both low pressure-in the tank- and high pressure-on the rail-)

Oh and yes sir I can get it to sputter by squirting some gasoline in the intake. Kind of hard to get it catch for more than a second doing it by myself. All fuses are good. One fusible link is held together with a wire nut. I'm gonna replace it as soon as I can find one. If not I'll use a regular fuse.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oh and yes sir I can get it to sputter by squirting some gasoline in the intake. Kind of hard to get it catch for more than a second doing it by myself. All fuses are good. One fusible link is held together with a wire nut. I'm gonna replace it as soon as I can find one. If not I'll use a regular fuse.

Ok, well at least we think that it's only a matter of fuel.

The PIP is sending a spark signal to the computer, and that should keep resetting the one second timer for fuel pump power.

Are we able to determine the frame rail mounted high pressure pump is working while the engine is turning over?

I'm not really the one good at EFI diagnosis.

Bill Vose is the man there.

I'd suggest you open a new topic in the main forum.

Your problem will get more attention there.

[ColbyDC]

Ok, well at least we think that it's only a matter of fuel.

The PIP is sending a spark signal to the computer, and that should keep resetting the one second timer for fuel pump power.

Are we able to determine the frame rail mounted high pressure pump is working while the engine is turning over?

I'm not really the one good at EFI diagnosis.

Bill Vose is the man there.

I'd suggest you open a new topic in the main forum.

Your problem will get more attention there.

Hmmm I didn't think to turn it over. I'll check it tomorrow. I will thank you for all your help. It's greatly appreciated.

[old55pete]

Hmmm I didn't think to turn it over. I'll check it tomorrow. I will thank you for all your help. It's greatly appreciated.

As it stands it sounds like the fuel pump is not coming on. The high pressure pump should come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from off to run. The high pressure pump is right under the drivers door mounted inside the frame rail.. These pictures show the two possable fuel filters that could be on your pickup. The fuel pump is between these filters. If you only have one filter like in the first picture, the pump is about 6 inches to the front of the pickup after the filter.

If the pumps are in fact coming on, between the air filter housing and the upper intake there is a schrader valve( looks like where you would put air in a tire) on the fuel rail where it connects the injectors. Hook up a fuel preasure gauge to that schrader valve(you can borrow/rent one from Checker or Auto Zone). Turn the key to run and check the fuel pressure, it MUST have between a minium of 45 psi and a max of 65 psi to run.

I hope this helps

[ColbyDC]

As it stands it sounds like the fuel pump is not coming on. The high pressure pump should come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from off to run. The high pressure pump is right under the drivers door mounted inside the frame rail.. These pictures show the two possable fuel filters that could be on your pickup. The fuel pump is between these filters. If you only have one filter like in the first picture, the pump is about 6 inches to the front of the pickup after the filter.

If the pumps are in fact coming on, between the air filter housing and the upper intake there is a schrader valve( looks like where you would put air in a tire) on the fuel rail where it connects the injectors. Hook up a fuel preasure gauge to that schrader valve(you can borrow/rent one from Checker or Auto Zone). Turn the key to run and check the fuel pressure, it MUST have between a minium of 45 psi and a max of 65 psi to run.

I hope this helps

I've got power to the pump. It's just clicks though. Doesn't seem like it tries to run. When I tested the pump I unhooked the pump and put my leads in the circuit side plug. It comes on for maybe one second. Not the several that's everyone says. Maybe because Ive got the pump unplugged? I've got power to the pump as when I turn it over as well. I went to change the fuel filter (lots of gel, appeared to be factory to) and I noticed that one oring on the bottom of the fuel tank selector valve was half way out. I tried to put it back in but I made it worse, the oring slipped out and whatever plunger it was holding retracted into the housing and I'm unable to get to it. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get to it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've got power to the pump. It's just clicks though. Doesn't seem like it tries to run. When I tested the pump I unhooked the pump and put my leads in the circuit side plug. It comes on for maybe one second. Not the several that's everyone says. Maybe because Ive got the pump unplugged? I've got power to the pump as when I turn it over as well. I went to change the fuel filter (lots of gel, appeared to be factory to) and I noticed that one oring on the bottom of the fuel tank selector valve was half way out. I tried to put it back in but I made it worse, the oring slipped out and whatever plunger it was holding retracted into the housing and I'm unable to get to it. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get to it.

Either hook the pump to a battery or hook the harness to a test light.

Better yet, both!

Does the light stay on if you're engaging the starter?

Does it come on and go out if you just turn the key to run?

Does the pump continue to run if connected to ~12V directly?

Or does it simply energize and it is stuck? (gel, varnish, debris)

[ColbyDC]

Either hook the pump to a battery or hook the harness to a test light.

Better yet, both!

Does the light stay on if you're engaging the starter?

Does it come on and go out if you just turn the key to run?

Does the pump continue to run if connected to ~12V directly?

Or does it simply energize and it is stuck? (gel, varnish, debris)

That's how I tested it. I brought a battery with me under the truck and ran a couple wires into the pump harness. It just clicks hard and that's it. Still haven't checked the low pressures.