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New 351W engine


Andre

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If you have your wipers on and shut the truck off the wipers don't park?

They just stop mid stroke?

Yep. Pretty sure Big Blue is the same. Will confirm in the morn. Which fits with the schematic.

Funny thing is, I checked today, they will stop anywhere when switching of the ignition, but with the wiper on, the radio will switch off too. When the wipers are off, and I shut down the engine, remove the key, the radio remains on, until I switch the wipers on and directly off again, for this is doesnt matter if this is to the delay function or normal function. I did remember to read somewhere online, that the wiper remain powered to return to park when switching off, but those years dont do that yet. Strange thing. I do hear the relay at the wiper switch to make that sound that relays do when they are bad, and after this tiny noise, the radio shuts off. Best maybe to replace the wiper switch little control box when I am back in March,IMG_5027.jpg.9029d0e76ae596652207606b2a936078.jpg

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Funny thing is, I checked today, they will stop anywhere when switching of the ignition, but with the wiper on, the radio will switch off too. When the wipers are off, and I shut down the engine, remove the key, the radio remains on, until I switch the wipers on and directly off again, for this is doesnt matter if this is to the delay function or normal function. I did remember to read somewhere online, that the wiper remain powered to return to park when switching off, but those years dont do that yet. Strange thing. I do hear the relay at the wiper switch to make that sound that relays do when they are bad, and after this tiny noise, the radio shuts off. Best maybe to replace the wiper switch little control box when I am back in March,

That reminded me to test Big Blue - his wipers shut off with the key. Is it possible that your radio is backfeeding? Can you unplug the radio and test?

A Mini Pickup! That's cool!

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That reminded me to test Big Blue - his wipers shut off with the key. Is it possible that your radio is backfeeding? Can you unplug the radio and test?

A Mini Pickup! That's cool!

Very cool! Nice color too. But I'd rather have a Spider... Series 2 though.

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That reminded me to test Big Blue - his wipers shut off with the key. Is it possible that your radio is backfeeding? Can you unplug the radio and test?

A Mini Pickup! That's cool!

This may sound crazy, but is it possible the capacitor holds enough to keep things powered for a bit even though the truck is switched off?

Giving it a path to ground would allow it to discharge, and if the timing were slow enough it would not be long enough (i.e. flipping the switch quickly) to recharge.

Putting a resistor across the output would solve this.

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This may sound crazy, but is it possible the capacitor holds enough to keep things powered for a bit even though the truck is switched off?

Giving it a path to ground would allow it to discharge, and if the timing were slow enough it would not be long enough (i.e. flipping the switch quickly) to recharge.

Putting a resistor across the output would solve this.

All, Thanks for the advice, but it all has to wait until spring, Bronco will be washed top and bottom today, and set back in the shop with a custom made tarp for its winter sleep. Time for me to head to spain before all borders close again, and to see my wife again after I have seen her last in March due to all the corona restrictions and us both be on different parts of europe when it all started. Did help me a little with this project that she was not around, as it keeps attention to the project a little easier. ( I wont tell her that tho)

All the best for the winter, and to continue in spring time.

 

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All, Thanks for the advice, but it all has to wait until spring, Bronco will be washed top and bottom today, and set back in the shop with a custom made tarp for its winter sleep. Time for me to head to spain before all borders close again, and to see my wife again after I have seen her last in March due to all the corona restrictions and us both be on different parts of europe when it all started. Did help me a little with this project that she was not around, as it keeps attention to the project a little easier. ( I wont tell her that tho)

All the best for the winter, and to continue in spring time.

You must miss her! I spent 3 months in London decades ago and the wife and kids didn't get to come. It was LONELY! But I had London and parts of England to explore, so I kept busy so I didn't have time to remember. I'm sure the Bronco was something like that for you. But don't tell her. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Have a safe journey. Everything I read says it is getting worse in Europe just like it is here, so please be careful. And I look forward to picking this conversation up in the spring.

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  • 1 month later...

This may sound crazy, but is it possible the capacitor holds enough to keep things powered for a bit even though the truck is switched off?

Giving it a path to ground would allow it to discharge, and if the timing were slow enough it would not be long enough (i.e. flipping the switch quickly) to recharge.

Putting a resistor across the output would solve this.

Goodmorning Jim,

While in my winterhome in Spain, I had the time to scan through the entire electrical section on the site, and when looking at page 16 of the 1985 EVTM the constant 12 volts to the radio I installed is coming from the sigar lighter, and the switched 12 volts is coming from its normal source. If the radio would have an internal problem, it could maintain a 12 volt power source back feeding into the switched 12 volts, and in this same circuit the window wipers are powered. With me switching the wipers quickly on/off, there could be enough power drop to switch of the radio.

As I have removed most of the wiring involving the EEC, I noticed there is a lot more I can remove. Therefore I think that when returning home I will remove the entire dash again, and start from scratch and remove anything I dont require anymore. This would make things a lot easier for the future.

Just dont know if the 1895 EVTM is accurate for the 1982 Bronco I have, and I will see if I can find a specific manual on the 1982 Bronco, with initial EEC installed, this would give me the proper color codes etc on wires and connectors. As I noticed that many of the wires as mentioned in this document are not applying to my car. As I no longer have the EEC installed, the wiring could be a lot less complicated.

The weird thing is, all worked fine until a certain moment, and now its not. That makes me think something has changed at the radio. Side note is that since this started to happen, the clock is not working at all anymore.

I will also remove the shunt wire that would make the amp meter work, as this needle is not moving any direction, and the shunt is creating a lot of heat at the alternator. As I have installed a alternator with internal voltage regulator, there is no need for a external regulator, but to make the amp meter work I needed to install the shunt wiring, instead of going directly to the battery. Better to install a voltage meter in the system, and remove the amp meter from the circuit.

The capacitor as you mention I don't have in the system.

Thanks again for the tips.

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Goodmorning Jim,

While in my winterhome in Spain, I had the time to scan through the entire electrical section on the site, and when looking at page 16 of the 1985 EVTM the constant 12 volts to the radio I installed is coming from the sigar lighter, and the switched 12 volts is coming from its normal source. If the radio would have an internal problem, it could maintain a 12 volt power source back feeding into the switched 12 volts, and in this same circuit the window wipers are powered. With me switching the wipers quickly on/off, there could be enough power drop to switch of the radio.

As I have removed most of the wiring involving the EEC, I noticed there is a lot more I can remove. Therefore I think that when returning home I will remove the entire dash again, and start from scratch and remove anything I dont require anymore. This would make things a lot easier for the future.

Just dont know if the 1895 EVTM is accurate for the 1982 Bronco I have, and I will see if I can find a specific manual on the 1982 Bronco, with initial EEC installed, this would give me the proper color codes etc on wires and connectors. As I noticed that many of the wires as mentioned in this document are not applying to my car. As I no longer have the EEC installed, the wiring could be a lot less complicated.

The weird thing is, all worked fine until a certain moment, and now its not. That makes me think something has changed at the radio. Side note is that since this started to happen, the clock is not working at all anymore.

I will also remove the shunt wire that would make the amp meter work, as this needle is not moving any direction, and the shunt is creating a lot of heat at the alternator. As I have installed a alternator with internal voltage regulator, there is no need for a external regulator, but to make the amp meter work I needed to install the shunt wiring, instead of going directly to the battery. Better to install a voltage meter in the system, and remove the amp meter from the circuit.

The capacitor as you mention I don't have in the system.

Thanks again for the tips.

Andre,

The clock not working is quite a clue.

I would perhaps unplug it, and see if the problem can be solved.

You can take the large yellow wire (cab feed) and go directly to the fuse after your alternator.

This way the ammeter wiring and shunt can just sit there until such time you upgrade to a voltmeter.

Ford was very good about keeping color codes over years and across product lines. (i.e. the oil pressure sender in my '87 truck is going to be the same W/R as found in a '74 Pinto)

Perhaps Gary has an '82 EVTM he can post more of in the documentation?

 

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Andre,

The clock not working is quite a clue.

I would perhaps unplug it, and see if the problem can be solved.

You can take the large yellow wire (cab feed) and go directly to the fuse after your alternator.

This way the ammeter wiring and shunt can just sit there until such time you upgrade to a voltmeter.

Ford was very good about keeping color codes over years and across product lines. (i.e. the oil pressure sender in my '87 truck is going to be the same W/R as found in a '74 Pinto)

Perhaps Gary has an '82 EVTM he can post more of in the documentation?

Thanks for the reply, and in the mean time I will look for a proper wiring diagram for this year.

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