86 12 Brutus Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Well it looks like the lifetime autozone radiator is leaking yet again. Going to swap it out. Here's the deal. I've been hearing stories about the transmision cooler lines inside the radiator breaking and water getting into the transmission, and have been hearing about it alot lately. Nick and i decided we want to go with a dedicated cooler. Here is my question. I am going to need to cut the lines because where they bend and go up to th radiator are in , well, not new condition. I plan to cut them off and flare the ends. Here's where i come into the unknown. I've added secondary coolers with hoses, and as i am to understand, if you use a hose, the line it connects to has to be flared correct? Should i go this rout, or should i get extra tubeing and bend and flare it and extend it to reach the new cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I've just cut the line with a tubing cutter and put a hose on. I did double clamp it, but never had a leak. If you put any flare on the line I think you'll risk cutting the hose with the sharp end of the flare. And it will make it hard to get the hose on. So if you flare I'd use a flare-to-hose barb connector. That would give the best seal and the least chance of having the hose come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 I've just cut the line with a tubing cutter and put a hose on. I did double clamp it, but never had a leak. If you put any flare on the line I think you'll risk cutting the hose with the sharp end of the flare. And it will make it hard to get the hose on. So if you flare I'd use a flare-to-hose barb connector. That would give the best seal and the least chance of having the hose come off. Gary my thinking is the same as yours, but everybody is telling me i have to flare it if i want to use a hose. and this really makes no sense to me, because like you said, it will cut into the hose. Now a barb fitting is a good idea. I've also been looking around and possibly doing a compression fitting and just joining another line to the exhisting line. I have about a week or so to figure everything out ( money you know ) how long have you been using the double clamped hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Gary my thinking is the same as yours, but everybody is telling me i have to flare it if i want to use a hose. and this really makes no sense to me, because like you said, it will cut into the hose. Now a barb fitting is a good idea. I've also been looking around and possibly doing a compression fitting and just joining another line to the exhisting line. I have about a week or so to figure everything out ( money you know ) how long have you been using the double clamped hoses? I no longer have that truck, and I forget which one it was. So I don't know how long it has been running that way. But the surest way to prevent leaks is to flare the line and use a flare/barb connection. That's what I'd recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 I no longer have that truck, and I forget which one it was. So I don't know how long it has been running that way. But the surest way to prevent leaks is to flare the line and use a flare/barb connection. That's what I'd recommend. sitting here thinking , depending on how diffictult it is to get to at the transmission, i may just make all new lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 sitting here thinking , depending on how diffictult it is to get to at the transmission, i may just make all new lines George, I have a trans cooler on my truck that I put on there many years ago. I did as Gary did and cut the line with a tubing cutter and used two clamps to attach a rubber style hose. I have a flaring kit but have never used it for this type of junction. I have never had a leak in this fashion on any vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 George, I have a trans cooler on my truck that I put on there many years ago. I did as Gary did and cut the line with a tubing cutter and used two clamps to attach a rubber style hose. I have a flaring kit but have never used it for this type of junction. I have never had a leak in this fashion on any vehicle. thanks john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 After careful check, the radiator is good. all is good with that, lets hope it stays that way. just going to replace the cooler that came with the truck and make new lines and that will be a wrap on that one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 After careful check, the radiator is good. all is good with that, lets hope it stays that way. just going to replace the cooler that came with the truck and make new lines and that will be a wrap on that one When I did my Lebaron transaxle cooler, I had found a nice oil to air cooler on a Durango at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. It was the only cooler and I figured if it was big enough for the 4.7L V8 and Chrysler OD Torqueflite it should certainly handle an A413 in a light car even with the 2.2L turbo II (roughly 200 hp). I essentially cut and spliced the original molded 5/16" rubber lines. I used a metric bubble flare tool and also used the first stage of my nice double flare kit. That worked better so I went with it. I made two roughly 1.25 - 1.5" sections with a "bump" on the ends, then used the nice full circle clamps for the fuel supply to the injectors (Chrysler runs 55 psi static and it rises with the boost to right about 70 psi). The lines have to go around the intercooler (no turbo II engines were equipt with automatics from the factory so no radiator transmission cooler) My original car, a 1985 had come with the 2.6L Mitsubishi engine and had an external cooler from the factory. The Durango cooler was installed vertically in front of the radiator, I mounted it in front of the pusher fans and kept the quick connect fittings. View is from below, looking from the left front area. The tubes have a larger inside cross section than the brass splices and should flow adequately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 When I did my Lebaron transaxle cooler, I had found a nice oil to air cooler on a Durango at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. It was the only cooler and I figured if it was big enough for the 4.7L V8 and Chrysler OD Torqueflite it should certainly handle an A413 in a light car even with the 2.2L turbo II (roughly 200 hp). I essentially cut and spliced the original molded 5/16" rubber lines. I used a metric bubble flare tool and also used the first stage of my nice double flare kit. That worked better so I went with it. I made two roughly 1.25 - 1.5" sections with a "bump" on the ends, then used the nice full circle clamps for the fuel supply to the injectors (Chrysler runs 55 psi static and it rises with the boost to right about 70 psi). The lines have to go around the intercooler (no turbo II engines were equipt with automatics from the factory so no radiator transmission cooler) My original car, a 1985 had come with the 2.6L Mitsubishi engine and had an external cooler from the factory. The Durango cooler was installed vertically in front of the radiator, I mounted it in front of the pusher fans and kept the quick connect fittings. View is from below, looking from the left front area. The tubes have a larger inside cross section than the brass splices and should flow adequately. I added a large cooler after the one in the radiator on my drag car because of the high stall converter that makes a lot of heat. Also the cooler has threaded ends and the only hose is the factory hoses from metal lines, the car came with that are high psi with threaded ends. The factory metal lines run from the trans to a hose into the radiator. I bent up lines that run from the radiator cooler out let to the extra cooler in let. I bent line from the out let of the extra cooler in to the factory hose to the factory metal line back into the trans. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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