StraightSix Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 There is certainly a big difference between a rigid 3/8 and a 1/2 drive pneumatic which is what took the alternator pulley nuts off. Ill probably do just as youve said and use my rigid for installation. Thanks! Well, its been an eventful day or so. I was able to get the alternator installed and running! I did have to do some grinding on the mounting bracket. It reads a steady 14.38V from the battery ground post to the starter solenoid B+ terminal. It reads a steady 7.07V from the battery ground post to the electric choke plug from the stator. I did put in a size 4 ground wire from the back of the alternator to the battery ground post. Thanks for all of your help Gary! Unfortunately the bronco is not running great now. The air/fuel induction system and the ignition system are either 100% stock, or close enough that my untrained eye doesn’t see anything glaring. It idled at about 1000 rpm before (which is probably a problem all its own). Now it chokes down to 200-300 rpm, then surges to 1000 rpm, and repeats over and over again. The cycle takes about 5 seconds. This is at idle with no throttle. It does this even after the engine warms up. If you give it some throttle it smooths out and runs at a steady rpm. Right now my theory is that I have cracked a vacuum line somewhere during the process of working on the alternator. Im open to any suggestions! This is the first carbureted engine Ive ever had other than a lawn mower so its all new to me. Maybe I should go buy a vacuum gage? Ill Be sure to read around about this issue here and on other forums, Im sure someone has run into it before. Finally, I may have run into the ford 300 deal of a lifetime. A fellow on our local craigslist has been trying to part out an entire 96 F150 complete with an incomplete 300 6. The add has been up for a month or so. I messaged him yesterday about to exhaust manifolds and he told me that I had caught him as he was going out the door to sell the whole mess to the scrap yard! He said I could have the manifolds for free, along with anything else I wanted from the truck. Im headed over to see him this afternoon. This may be a better question for FordSix, but is the 96 long block or head useful for a carbureted build? I know that the chamber volume on the efi heads is a little smaller, and that the block doesn’t have a mounting location for the cam driven mechanical fuel pump. Is there anything else? I my bring the whole engine home. I know I got a little off topic here, thanks for reading! If I don’t figure out the idle issue I may start another thread. Some time in the next few months Ill be starting a Motorcraft 2150 / OffenhauserC + Duraspark II + EFI exhaust / 2.5” exhaust to the back type of conversion on the bronco. Nearly all of the major components are already on my garage work bench. Ive seen where there have been a lot of great writeups on similar conversions in the past (one on FTE and many good write ups from AbandonedBronco on several sites) but many of these write ups seem to have been relieved of their photographs. Im hoping I can document it all here on the bullnose forum when the day comes for that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Well, its been an eventful day or so. I was able to get the alternator installed and running! I did have to do some grinding on the mounting bracket. It reads a steady 14.38V from the battery ground post to the starter solenoid B+ terminal. It reads a steady 7.07V from the battery ground post to the electric choke plug from the stator. I did put in a size 4 ground wire from the back of the alternator to the battery ground post. Thanks for all of your help Gary! Unfortunately the bronco is not running great now. The air/fuel induction system and the ignition system are either 100% stock, or close enough that my untrained eye doesn’t see anything glaring. It idled at about 1000 rpm before (which is probably a problem all its own). Now it chokes down to 200-300 rpm, then surges to 1000 rpm, and repeats over and over again. The cycle takes about 5 seconds. This is at idle with no throttle. It does this even after the engine warms up. If you give it some throttle it smooths out and runs at a steady rpm. Right now my theory is that I have cracked a vacuum line somewhere during the process of working on the alternator. Im open to any suggestions! This is the first carbureted engine Ive ever had other than a lawn mower so its all new to me. Maybe I should go buy a vacuum gage? Ill Be sure to read around about this issue here and on other forums, Im sure someone has run into it before. Finally, I may have run into the ford 300 deal of a lifetime. A fellow on our local craigslist has been trying to part out an entire 96 F150 complete with an incomplete 300 6. The add has been up for a month or so. I messaged him yesterday about to exhaust manifolds and he told me that I had caught him as he was going out the door to sell the whole mess to the scrap yard! He said I could have the manifolds for free, along with anything else I wanted from the truck. Im headed over to see him this afternoon. This may be a better question for FordSix, but is the 96 long block or head useful for a carbureted build? I know that the chamber volume on the efi heads is a little smaller, and that the block doesn’t have a mounting location for the cam driven mechanical fuel pump. Is there anything else? I my bring the whole engine home. I know I got a little off topic here, thanks for reading! If I don’t figure out the idle issue I may start another thread. Some time in the next few months Ill be starting a Motorcraft 2150 / OffenhauserC + Duraspark II + EFI exhaust / 2.5” exhaust to the back type of conversion on the bronco. Nearly all of the major components are already on my garage work bench. Ive seen where there have been a lot of great writeups on similar conversions in the past (one on FTE and many good write ups from AbandonedBronco on several sites) but many of these write ups seem to have been relieved of their photographs. Im hoping I can document it all here on the bullnose forum when the day comes for that job. Glad the alternator works. On the surging, my experience is that a very lean condition causes that. So you may well be right about the cracked hose. Or maybe just a hose that has come off. David/1986F150Six recommends "the smoke test" to find vacuum problems. He blocked off the carb's inlet and blew through a large vacuum line, like maybe the brake booster one, after puffing on a cigar. Very quickly smoke came out from a cracked vacuum line he couldn't see, and that was the problem. On the deal, get everything you can! I don't know about the head, but do know the intake and exhaust manifolds are sought after. And on the writeup, one of the advantages of this forum software is that the pictures are part of the forum. Many other forums just have links to the pics embedded in the post, so when you pull a post up your browser knows to go to the other site and get the pic. But so many of those sites change, die, or require fees that the picture owner doesn't pay, so the pic is no longer available. I know I ran into exactly that last night looking for info on behind-the-seat storage units - many of the pics are NLA. I can understand why those sites do that as it keeps the size of the backup down, significantly. But with the changes that Photobucket made a few years ago, and the probability that other sites will do the same, I like the way our software does it. Basically, as long as the forum is here the pictures will be as well. And I plan for the forum to be here for a long, long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Well, its been an eventful day or so. I was able to get the alternator installed and running! I did have to do some grinding on the mounting bracket. It reads a steady 14.38V from the battery ground post to the starter solenoid B+ terminal. It reads a steady 7.07V from the battery ground post to the electric choke plug from the stator. I did put in a size 4 ground wire from the back of the alternator to the battery ground post. Thanks for all of your help Gary! Unfortunately the bronco is not running great now. The air/fuel induction system and the ignition system are either 100% stock, or close enough that my untrained eye doesn’t see anything glaring. It idled at about 1000 rpm before (which is probably a problem all its own). Now it chokes down to 200-300 rpm, then surges to 1000 rpm, and repeats over and over again. The cycle takes about 5 seconds. This is at idle with no throttle. It does this even after the engine warms up. If you give it some throttle it smooths out and runs at a steady rpm. Right now my theory is that I have cracked a vacuum line somewhere during the process of working on the alternator. Im open to any suggestions! This is the first carbureted engine Ive ever had other than a lawn mower so its all new to me. Maybe I should go buy a vacuum gage? Ill Be sure to read around about this issue here and on other forums, Im sure someone has run into it before. Finally, I may have run into the ford 300 deal of a lifetime. A fellow on our local craigslist has been trying to part out an entire 96 F150 complete with an incomplete 300 6. The add has been up for a month or so. I messaged him yesterday about to exhaust manifolds and he told me that I had caught him as he was going out the door to sell the whole mess to the scrap yard! He said I could have the manifolds for free, along with anything else I wanted from the truck. Im headed over to see him this afternoon. This may be a better question for FordSix, but is the 96 long block or head useful for a carbureted build? I know that the chamber volume on the efi heads is a little smaller, and that the block doesn’t have a mounting location for the cam driven mechanical fuel pump. Is there anything else? I my bring the whole engine home. I know I got a little off topic here, thanks for reading! If I don’t figure out the idle issue I may start another thread. Some time in the next few months Ill be starting a Motorcraft 2150 / OffenhauserC + Duraspark II + EFI exhaust / 2.5” exhaust to the back type of conversion on the bronco. Nearly all of the major components are already on my garage work bench. Ive seen where there have been a lot of great writeups on similar conversions in the past (one on FTE and many good write ups from AbandonedBronco on several sites) but many of these write ups seem to have been relieved of their photographs. Im hoping I can document it all here on the bullnose forum when the day comes for that job. .The surge is the classic sign of a bad MAP sensor, but I don't know if an '86 300 has one. You might try disconnecting the computer from the carburetor, reconnecting it and then locking the timing. At least this will tell you what system is causing the idle to hunt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 .The surge is the classic sign of a bad MAP sensor, but I don't know if an '86 300 has one. You might try disconnecting the computer from the carburetor, reconnecting it and then locking the timing. At least this will tell you what system is causing the idle to hunt. Located on the inner fender by the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 .The surge is the classic sign of a bad MAP sensor, but I don't know if an '86 300 has one. You might try disconnecting the computer from the carburetor, reconnecting it and then locking the timing. At least this will tell you what system is causing the idle to hunt. Located on the inner fender by the battery. Thank you David! And given the 3G install it seems a wire or hose may have been dislodged. At least it's something to check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 .The surge is the classic sign of a bad MAP sensor, but I don't know if an '86 300 has one. You might try disconnecting the computer from the carburetor, reconnecting it and then locking the timing. At least this will tell you what system is causing the idle to hunt. Gary and Jim, Those are both good starting points. It looks like I can get a MAP sensor for about 45 bucks . If it doesn’t run right after, I could just return it. Truth be told, since my plan has been to remove the majority of the factory induction and ignition system all along I haven’t taken as much time as I maybe should have to learn about the trucks factory sensors and their function. Ive mostly been reading about how to perform the carb and ignition changes I want. If I try puffing a cigar I may turn green like something out of looney toons. Hmm, Who do I know that smokes? I guess just blowing and listening might help if it’s a really gross leak. And I can try some ether spray as well. I may start by pulling off the carb. It was “rebuilt” by the previous owner and Ive always wondered if that had something to do with the really high idle. It has also bogged down and died on me twice. Both times were after long pulls up steep mountains for dozens of miles. One was at about 5000 ft in the Rockies and the other was at about 1800 ft in central Alabama. The Alabama break down occurred when it was about 95F, I sorta wonder if I didn’t vapor lock the carb that time. Im a little suspect that the carb my have something to do with all of that. Also, Im only getting 11 mpg which is surprising since I drive very gently. The temptation is immense to just pull the factory intake, exhaust and ignition now and start putting on my other parts instead of troubleshooting the factory equipment. The catch is that I really want it all to be running reliably enough for a 500 mile round trip through the mountains with spotty cell service by 11/18. I just don’t know if I can make it all happen that fast. Im sure putting the “big pieces” together would take a few evenings at most but the little details could eat me alive. Ill grab everything I can for sure, maybe even the whole engine. Its not clear at the moment if he wants to part with the truck or not. It’s a seemingly very clean 5 speed burgundy 1996. Its not really part of my financial plan but if he wants to let that go at a reasonable price I may have to snag it. It doesn’t have an engine at the moment but Im getting awful close to having 3 300-6 blocks in my garage. My girlfriend may be burying me in the yard in the wee hours of the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 .The surge is the classic sign of a bad MAP sensor, but I don't know if an '86 300 has one. You might try disconnecting the computer from the carburetor, reconnecting it and then locking the timing. At least this will tell you what system is causing the idle to hunt. Located on the inner fender by the battery. And thank you as well David! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Gary and Jim, Those are both good starting points. It looks like I can get a MAP sensor for about 45 bucks . If it doesn’t run right after, I could just return it. Truth be told, since my plan has been to remove the majority of the factory induction and ignition system all along I haven’t taken as much time as I maybe should have to learn about the trucks factory sensors and their function. Ive mostly been reading about how to perform the carb and ignition changes I want. I have several used ones [supplied to me years ago by Jonathan/FordF834]. I will be glad to send them to you! If I try puffing a cigar I may turn green like something out of looney toons. Hmm, Who do I know that smokes? I guess just blowing and listening might help if it’s a really gross leak. And I can try some ether spray as well. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1478167-vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive.html I may start by pulling off the carb. It was “rebuilt” by the previous owner and Ive always wondered if that had something to do with the really high idle. It has also bogged down and died on me twice. Both times were after long pulls up steep mountains for dozens of miles. One was at about 5000 ft in the Rockies and the other was at about 1800 ft in central Alabama. The Alabama break down occurred when it was about 95F, I sorta wonder if I didn’t vapor lock the carb that time. Im a little suspect that the carb my have something to do with all of that. Also, Im only getting 11 mpg which is surprising since I drive very gently. Read the introduction to this link [first two tanks = 9 & 11 mpg; sound familiar?] https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325963-gas-mileage-recipe-4-9l-300-a.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 Gary and Jim, Those are both good starting points. It looks like I can get a MAP sensor for about 45 bucks . If it doesn’t run right after, I could just return it. Truth be told, since my plan has been to remove the majority of the factory induction and ignition system all along I haven’t taken as much time as I maybe should have to learn about the trucks factory sensors and their function. Ive mostly been reading about how to perform the carb and ignition changes I want. I have several used ones [supplied to me years ago by Jonathan/FordF834]. I will be glad to send them to you! If I try puffing a cigar I may turn green like something out of looney toons. Hmm, Who do I know that smokes? I guess just blowing and listening might help if it’s a really gross leak. And I can try some ether spray as well. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1478167-vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive.html I may start by pulling off the carb. It was “rebuilt” by the previous owner and Ive always wondered if that had something to do with the really high idle. It has also bogged down and died on me twice. Both times were after long pulls up steep mountains for dozens of miles. One was at about 5000 ft in the Rockies and the other was at about 1800 ft in central Alabama. The Alabama break down occurred when it was about 95F, I sorta wonder if I didn’t vapor lock the carb that time. Im a little suspect that the carb my have something to do with all of that. Also, Im only getting 11 mpg which is surprising since I drive very gently. Read the introduction to this link [first two tanks = 9 & 11 mpg; sound familiar?] https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325963-gas-mileage-recipe-4-9l-300-a.html Wow! Thanks! That is an incredibly generous offer. Let me take a look at everything when I get home. If it seems like I may need a MAP Ill let you know! I could even return it after I do my intake and carb etc. And now I have some good reading to do as well! Thanks David! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 Gary and Jim, Those are both good starting points. It looks like I can get a MAP sensor for about 45 bucks . If it doesn’t run right after, I could just return it. Truth be told, since my plan has been to remove the majority of the factory induction and ignition system all along I haven’t taken as much time as I maybe should have to learn about the trucks factory sensors and their function. Ive mostly been reading about how to perform the carb and ignition changes I want. I have several used ones [supplied to me years ago by Jonathan/FordF834]. I will be glad to send them to you! If I try puffing a cigar I may turn green like something out of looney toons. Hmm, Who do I know that smokes? I guess just blowing and listening might help if it’s a really gross leak. And I can try some ether spray as well. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1478167-vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive.html I may start by pulling off the carb. It was “rebuilt” by the previous owner and Ive always wondered if that had something to do with the really high idle. It has also bogged down and died on me twice. Both times were after long pulls up steep mountains for dozens of miles. One was at about 5000 ft in the Rockies and the other was at about 1800 ft in central Alabama. The Alabama break down occurred when it was about 95F, I sorta wonder if I didn’t vapor lock the carb that time. Im a little suspect that the carb my have something to do with all of that. Also, Im only getting 11 mpg which is surprising since I drive very gently. Read the introduction to this link [first two tanks = 9 & 11 mpg; sound familiar?] https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325963-gas-mileage-recipe-4-9l-300-a.html Woah. That guys 84 300 with the vac leak sounds exactly like my situation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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