84 Bronco 3g alternator upgrade problem

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks a ton Gary! Ill be sure to update you when I actually get it running which will probably be Monday or Tuesday. Now Im working on figuring out how I want to wire the winch in. Its more an issue of routing those big cables than anything else. There arent a lot of convenient spots to put them, and I want it all to be pretty easy to remove since the winch will only be on the vehicle when Im going somewhere it could be useful.

Welcome. Hope it goes well.

As for the winch, you should consider these connectors. I'm using a set, which allows me to leave the wiring to the battery attached but take the winch off and put it on the trailer. Then I have a 10' jumper that connects back up to the truck.

[StraightSix]

Welcome. Hope it goes well.

As for the winch, you should consider these connectors. I'm using a set, which allows me to leave the wiring to the battery attached but take the winch off and put it on the trailer. Then I have a 10' jumper that connects back up to the truck.

Beleive it or not, I have that exact same plug set sitting on my work bench. I picked it up for this project, then talked myself out of it. I was sceptical about the plugs holding the current (I'm a mechanical guy, not electrical if that wasnt already apparent, so what do I know). Also, when I started looking around trying to decide where to locate the plug it turned into a bit of a geometric challenge. Where is your battery side plug located/mounted? It would be really convenient to have the plugs so that I could more easily slide the winch into the rear receiver and pull myself out backwards if need be.

Do you have an inline fuse? I was planning to place a 500A anl fuse on the + wire as close to the battery as possible. Warn claims that the max amp draw on my winch is 453A, but that seems mind bogglingly high. Thanks again!

[Gary Lewis]

Beleive it or not, I have that exact same plug set sitting on my work bench. I picked it up for this project, then talked myself out of it. I was sceptical about the plugs holding the current (I'm a mechanical guy, not electrical if that wasnt already apparent, so what do I know). Also, when I started looking around trying to decide where to locate the plug it turned into a bit of a geometric challenge. Where is your battery side plug located/mounted? It would be really convenient to have the plugs so that I could more easily slide the winch into the rear receiver and pull myself out backwards if need be.

Do you have an inline fuse? I was planning to place a 500A anl fuse on the + wire as close to the battery as possible. Warn claims that the max amp draw on my winch is 453A, but that seems mind bogglingly high. Thanks again!

Yipes! What winch do you have? I have a Smittybilt 12K and it doesn't pull that kind of current, although I don't remember exactly how much it does pull.

I have a Warn winch bumper on the front, and a hitch receiver mounted right below the winch using the same bolts that hold the winch to the bumper. And my battery-side connector is strapped to the back end of that receiver. But, there's no fuse to the battery, although there really should be give the size of the wire as it could really melt down with a direct short.

I have an aux battery on the driver's side, and the winch wires wend their way up from the receiver to that battery. The winch plugs into that cable when mounted in the bumper, or if the winch is mounted on the trailer and the trailer is hitched to the front of the truck I put the 10' welding cable jumper between the connector on the receiver and the winch.

It would be nice to be able to put the winch on the rear. But that would mean creating a receiver mount for it and then carry it everywhere. Perhaps if I didn't have the Warn bumper I would mount the winch in front of a standard bumper on a receiver and then I could easily move it to the rear.

[StraightSix]

Yipes! What winch do you have? I have a Smittybilt 12K and it doesn't pull that kind of current, although I don't remember exactly how much it does pull.

I have a Warn winch bumper on the front, and a hitch receiver mounted right below the winch using the same bolts that hold the winch to the bumper. And my battery-side connector is strapped to the back end of that receiver. But, there's no fuse to the battery, although there really should be give the size of the wire as it could really melt down with a direct short.

I have an aux battery on the driver's side, and the winch wires wend their way up from the receiver to that battery. The winch plugs into that cable when mounted in the bumper, or if the winch is mounted on the trailer and the trailer is hitched to the front of the truck I put the 10' welding cable jumper between the connector on the receiver and the winch.

It would be nice to be able to put the winch on the rear. But that would mean creating a receiver mount for it and then carry it everywhere. Perhaps if I didn't have the Warn bumper I would mount the winch in front of a standard bumper on a receiver and then I could easily move it to the rear.

Gary,

I think those warn winch bumpers look great, especially on our trucks. They blend really well into the lines at the fron of the wheel wells. Here is what Ive done

I still need to build the insert to hold the winch and finalize the wiring. And ofcourse, this is all the main reason for the alternator. Im going on a trip in November that Id like to have the winch for.

One neat thing is that the receiver only sticks out of the front of the bumper by about 1/4", so I can put a vanity plate over the front receiver when its not in use and you would never know.

Its an 8000lb warn winch. The name plate is indecipherable but I am assuming it is a M8000 because its looks identical and has the same weight rating. That is how I found the 453A max draw.. even if it hits that amperage Im sure it cant stay there for very long.

I dont "offroad" but I do spend a good bit of time on old national forest and forest service roads and the like. They arent always well maintained and Ive been stuck before. Since Im almost always alone the winch is great help.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

I think those warn winch bumpers look great, especially on our trucks. They blend really well into the lines at the fron of the wheel wells. Here is what Ive done

I still need to build the insert to hold the winch and finalize the wiring. And ofcourse, this is all the main reason for the alternator. Im going on a trip in November that Id like to have the winch for.

One neat thing is that the receiver only sticks out of the front of the bumper by about 1/4", so I can put a vanity plate over the front receiver when its not in use and you would never know.

Its an 8000lb warn winch. The name plate is indecipherable but I am assuming it is a M8000 because its looks identical and has the same weight rating. That is how I found the 453A max draw.. even if it hits that amperage Im sure it cant stay there for very long.

I dont "offroad" but I do spend a good bit of time on old national forest and forest service roads and the like. They arent always well maintained and Ive been stuck before. Since Im almost always alone the winch is great help.

I've thought about doing what you've done. Fortunately my truck came to me with the Warn bumper as the Sky Offroad RSK obviates placing the receiver where you put it - which looks to be a very solid place by the way.

So you have the best of both worlds - stock looking when you want it and a winch on either end when you need it. I like that!

As for "offroading", I'm not likely to do much of that, but do want to do forest service roads and the trails in Colorado. And I can see how a winch would be very helpful on them. Just last week when taking one of the trails in Colorado I saw aspen trees that had fallen across the trail and someone had pulled off, probably with a winch.

[StraightSix]

I've thought about doing what you've done. Fortunately my truck came to me with the Warn bumper as the Sky Offroad RSK obviates placing the receiver where you put it - which looks to be a very solid place by the way.

So you have the best of both worlds - stock looking when you want it and a winch on either end when you need it. I like that!

As for "offroading", I'm not likely to do much of that, but do want to do forest service roads and the trails in Colorado. And I can see how a winch would be very helpful on them. Just last week when taking one of the trails in Colorado I saw aspen trees that had fallen across the trail and someone had pulled off, probably with a winch.

Thanks! Im really pleased with how the front receiver turned out. I like the idea of being able to leave things looking mostly stock when I can, though the warn bumpers have a great look to them.

I thought cutting the front bumper without scarring, burning or blueing the plating would be hard, but it really wasnt too bad. I drilled the corners with a 1/2 drill bit then used a cutoff wheel to cut most of the length. I did try not to work for too long in any one area with the cuttoff wheel. I cleaned it up with a flapper wheel and a hand file.

The last time I got stuck I was in a 2wd with no winch. I spent about 12 hours split across 2 days digging myself out. And I was way outside of cell service range. I dont want to do that again!

[ArdWrknTrk]

you might get away with using an M18 ring shim from mcmaster carr in 1.0mm thickness (.039") or a 1.5mm thickness (.059"). They are inexpensive and would be an easy way for someone who doesnt have access to machining tools to get the shim they need. I am not positive that the inside diameter would be suitable though. Ill be using a shim that a buddy with a lathe is going to turn for me

I'm late to the party but I want to say that the 3G (and most alternators, across domestic brands) has a 17mm shaft.

While 18mm is probably just fine, I'm trying to catch up with the forum and wanted to answer your question.

Also 1mm (0.040 in my book) seems plenty.

I've used a 0.025 machine shim and there was no rubbing, but I'm not sure that all pulleys are exactly the same.

 

[StraightSix]

you might get away with using an M18 ring shim from mcmaster carr in 1.0mm thickness (.039") or a 1.5mm thickness (.059"). They are inexpensive and would be an easy way for someone who doesnt have access to machining tools to get the shim they need. I am not positive that the inside diameter would be suitable though. Ill be using a shim that a buddy with a lathe is going to turn for me

I'm late to the party but I want to say that the 3G (and most alternators, across domestic brands) has a 17mm shaft.

While 18mm is probably just fine, I'm trying to catch up with the forum and wanted to answer your question.

Also 1mm (0.040 in my book) seems plenty.

I've used a 0.025 machine shim and there was no rubbing, but I'm not sure that all pulleys are exactly the same.

I just got my shim and pulley back from my friend with the lathe. He made me .030, .040, .050, and .070 shims. I ended up using the .040". He also machined out the pocket on my pulley .180" deeper to allow for more thread engagment between the nut and the shaft. I suspect this may be necessary for double v belt pulleys.

I finally have all the parts ready to go but Ill be out of town until Monday. It should be running monday night.

How should I tighten the nut that holds the pulley onto the alternator shaft? Putting an impact on it seems like a really bad idea. Maybe try to wrap a strap wrench around the pulley and use a breaker bar for the nut?

Thanks Guys!

[Gary Lewis]

I just got my shim and pulley back from my friend with the lathe. He made me .030, .040, .050, and .070 shims. I ended up using the .040". He also machined out the pocket on my pulley .180" deeper to allow for more thread engagment between the nut and the shaft. I suspect this may be necessary for double v belt pulleys.

I finally have all the parts ready to go but Ill be out of town until Monday. It should be running monday night.

How should I tighten the nut that holds the pulley onto the alternator shaft? Putting an impact on it seems like a really bad idea. Maybe try to wrap a strap wrench around the pulley and use a breaker bar for the nut?

Thanks Guys!

There are impacts and then there are IMPACTS. My 3/8" Ridgid generates ~40 lb-ft with a fully-charged battery, and that's what I use on an alternator's bolt for tightening. I put on a leather glove and hold the pulley and hit the nut with the impact.

But sometimes to remove the nut I need to use the 1/2" Ridgid, which supposedly can generate up to 300 lb-ft. It doesn't take that much, but a quick hit with it brings the nut right off.

[StraightSix]

There are impacts and then there are IMPACTS. My 3/8" Ridgid generates ~40 lb-ft with a fully-charged battery, and that's what I use on an alternator's bolt for tightening. I put on a leather glove and hold the pulley and hit the nut with the impact.

But sometimes to remove the nut I need to use the 1/2" Ridgid, which supposedly can generate up to 300 lb-ft. It doesn't take that much, but a quick hit with it brings the nut right off.

There is certainly a big difference between a rigid 3/8 and a 1/2 drive pneumatic which is what took the alternator pulley nuts off. Ill probably do just as youve said and use my rigid for installation. Thanks!