Gary Lewis Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Haven't updated this in a while, but major milestone today, windshield is installed, I had it shipped to a local company and since he had a job just up the road, he was able to do it for their minimum charge of 1 hr labor, $95. I had all the old glass out, trim off and everything pretty well cleaned. From the front: From inside: Top left corner, they use a polyurethane adhesive: Yippee! Now you can start installing some of that fancy powder-coated hardware! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Haven't updated this in a while, but major milestone today, windshield is installed, I had it shipped to a local company and since he had a job just up the road, he was able to do it for their minimum charge of 1 hr labor, $95. I had all the old glass out, trim off and everything pretty well cleaned. From the front: From inside: Top left corner, they use a polyurethane adhesive: Why the right to left ruler marked out above the glass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 Why the right to left ruler marked out above the glass? It was to get a profile of the windshield curvature at the dashboard area, they are based on 1" spacing at the bottom and are roughly 0.85" apart. The 1989 dash bolts in, but the windshield on the 1986 is not raked back as much as the 1989 one. I was measuring how much of a filler I will need so the bolts holding the top of the dash in are hidden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 Yippee! Now you can start installing some of that fancy powder-coated hardware! Actually, the fancy powder coated hardware has been on for a while. Today I got the windshield outside trim on with nice CRES #8 X 3/4" sheet metal screws. The side pieces are primarily retained by the weatherstrip channels for the front windows. I put the 2001 Sebring convertible rear view mirror on and plugged it in, so I now have a higher level courtesy light than under dash and doors. Then, since the tachometer in the analog dash works when it feels like it, I put one of the $10 digital ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Actually, the fancy powder coated hardware has been on for a while. Today I got the windshield outside trim on with nice CRES #8 X 3/4" sheet metal screws. The side pieces are primarily retained by the weatherstrip channels for the front windows. I put the 2001 Sebring convertible rear view mirror on and plugged it in, so I now have a higher level courtesy light than under dash and doors. Then, since the tachometer in the analog dash works when it feels like it, I put one of the $10 digital ones in. Ahhh! I see. You are making progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Ahhh! I see. You are making progress. And, progress is good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Ahhh! I see. You are making progress. And, progress is good! Amen, brother! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 Amen, brother! Ok some more progress, first I dug into my stash of NOS parts for the front window guides. On the convertible since there is no frame for the window the guides are two small pieces of what is probably nylon running on an oval tube that is bolted into the door top and bottom. I did the left side first as I knew those were broken, when I got to the right side, I found those were in good shape and everything just needed readjusting. The up stop on the 1986 is greatly improved from 1985 and earlier, it is a large metal tab bolted to the window with no up-down adjustment. It engages a bracket with a nylon sleeve that (a) stops the rear portion of the window going up and (b) holds it solidly in place. The adjustments are: window for and aft, front of the window up or down and the guide assembly allows some in/out tilt and fore and aft tilt adjustment. The front up or down is used to level the window. When everything is right, the window comes solidly against the weatherstrip on the windshield frame and sits level parallel to the top of the door. The rear quarter windows are interesting, they use a drive tape and the adjustments on them are a royal PITA. The windows are operated by a drive tape (toothed plastic) that literally crosses itself due to the cramped location. The window attaches with two big washered 1/4-20 nuts through roughly 3/4 X 3/4" square openings in the window "carrier" that slides up and down in a channel. The fore and aft positions and top to bottom tilt are adjusted there, in and out and in and out tilt along with vertical position are done by 6 bolts and one nut for up and down and 3 bolts and one other nut for in and out and in and out tilt. The previous picture has both left side windows up after all adjustments were made. Today I worked on the area in front of the deck lid and down the sides where the trim around the top goes, which also holds the top boot on with the top down. Because this trim (a) drops down over the inside at the back of the top well and (b) drops down over the quarter panels to hide the pop rivets that tie the sections together, I decided to play body man. I had removed the small panel between the top well and deck lid to facilitate saving the molding clips. Since it was glued, pop riveted and sealed to the main part of the body shell this was loads of fun. I removed the panel by taking the deck lid loose from the hinges and letting the pneumatic lift struts push it back clear of the opening. with the hinges flat, I could dig the caulking out and remove the two self tapping screws, then drill 3 5/32" pop rivets out and pry the back edge up until the epoxy broke. After that I was able to slide it from under the molding clips. This allowed me enough slack that I could use a pair of channel locks and a 3/8" socket to push the small metal retaining bolts up through the clips enough to be able to hold the heads with a pair of Vice Grips while I broke 33 years of accumulated rust and sealer loose. Once I had them off, it was time to reinstall the filler panel (maybe 2" deep) with fresh epoxy (J B Weld) and sealer and 3 new pop rivets. Today after the sealer and epoxy had set, I removed the clips again along with the side ones and masked the adjacent areas and sanded and primed them with gray Rustoleum primer. The correct paint is ordered so I can paint the inaccessible areas before I put the clips and trim back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 Ok some more progress, first I dug into my stash of NOS parts for the front window guides. On the convertible since there is no frame for the window the guides are two small pieces of what is probably nylon running on an oval tube that is bolted into the door top and bottom. I did the left side first as I knew those were broken, when I got to the right side, I found those were in good shape and everything just needed readjusting. The up stop on the 1986 is greatly improved from 1985 and earlier, it is a large metal tab bolted to the window with no up-down adjustment. It engages a bracket with a nylon sleeve that (a) stops the rear portion of the window going up and (b) holds it solidly in place. The adjustments are: window for and aft, front of the window up or down and the guide assembly allows some in/out tilt and fore and aft tilt adjustment. The front up or down is used to level the window. When everything is right, the window comes solidly against the weatherstrip on the windshield frame and sits level parallel to the top of the door. The rear quarter windows are interesting, they use a drive tape and the adjustments on them are a royal PITA. The windows are operated by a drive tape (toothed plastic) that literally crosses itself due to the cramped location. The window attaches with two big washered 1/4-20 nuts through roughly 3/4 X 3/4" square openings in the window "carrier" that slides up and down in a channel. The fore and aft positions and top to bottom tilt are adjusted there, in and out and in and out tilt along with vertical position are done by 6 bolts and one nut for up and down and 3 bolts and one other nut for in and out and in and out tilt. The previous picture has both left side windows up after all adjustments were made. Today I worked on the area in front of the deck lid and down the sides where the trim around the top goes, which also holds the top boot on with the top down. Because this trim (a) drops down over the inside at the back of the top well and (b) drops down over the quarter panels to hide the pop rivets that tie the sections together, I decided to play body man. I had removed the small panel between the top well and deck lid to facilitate saving the molding clips. Since it was glued, pop riveted and sealed to the main part of the body shell this was loads of fun. I removed the panel by taking the deck lid loose from the hinges and letting the pneumatic lift struts push it back clear of the opening. with the hinges flat, I could dig the caulking out and remove the two self tapping screws, then drill 3 5/32" pop rivets out and pry the back edge up until the epoxy broke. After that I was able to slide it from under the molding clips. This allowed me enough slack that I could use a pair of channel locks and a 3/8" socket to push the small metal retaining bolts up through the clips enough to be able to hold the heads with a pair of Vice Grips while I broke 33 years of accumulated rust and sealer loose. Once I had them off, it was time to reinstall the filler panel (maybe 2" deep) with fresh epoxy (J B Weld) and sealer and 3 new pop rivets. Today after the sealer and epoxy had set, I removed the clips again along with the side ones and masked the adjacent areas and sanded and primed them with gray Rustoleum primer. The correct paint is ordered so I can paint the inaccessible areas before I put the clips and trim back on. Adjusting the back windows sounds complicated. Glad you got them done. And breaking everything loose w/o breaking anything, or bending it, seems like a chore. Glad that went well. So, when are you painting it? And, are you doing the painting yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 Adjusting the back windows sounds complicated. Glad you got them done. And breaking everything loose w/o breaking anything, or bending it, seems like a chore. Glad that went well. So, when are you painting it? And, are you doing the painting yourself? I am just painting the areas that are pretty well inaccessible once the trim is installed. Most likely my friend who owns the big MAACO in Hampton VA. will be painting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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