mat in tn Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 Yes it is, and is what Chrysler used. I have some nice hydraulic sealer that I bought when working on Mary's Cousin's G30 van. hopefully I'm not going to interrupt too much but I had a question not related to ford trucks and not specifically your car. I thought of you when this car came in., we have an 89 "tc" in the shop. today I went in, and the young guy is scratching his head. looking all over for the knock sensor. he had just been on the phone with a Chrysler dealer who asked if it even had one. anyway, I get into it with him and went over the customers complaint. falling flat above 2500. when pushed it seems to just slow down further. I asked what the fuel pressure tested at vs what it should be. he said that test showed 60 yet it was just a measurement and not sure what it should be. but he says you can rev it out fine in neutral. I explained that turbo differential against fuel pressure changes things and it is probably a failing fuel pump. wondering about a knock sensor though. i found nothing resembling one nor any wiring headed to or from where I suspect one should be. funny thing is that he kept correcting me when i called it a lebaron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 24, 2023 Author Share Posted February 24, 2023 hopefully I'm not going to interrupt too much but I had a question not related to ford trucks and not specifically your car. I thought of you when this car came in., we have an 89 "tc" in the shop. today I went in, and the young guy is scratching his head. looking all over for the knock sensor. he had just been on the phone with a Chrysler dealer who asked if it even had one. anyway, I get into it with him and went over the customers complaint. falling flat above 2500. when pushed it seems to just slow down further. I asked what the fuel pressure tested at vs what it should be. he said that test showed 60 yet it was just a measurement and not sure what it should be. but he says you can rev it out fine in neutral. I explained that turbo differential against fuel pressure changes things and it is probably a failing fuel pump. wondering about a knock sensor though. i found nothing resembling one nor any wiring headed to or from where I suspect one should be. funny thing is that he kept correcting me when i called it a lebaron. Ok, the 1989 TC by Maserati is what I assume you are dealing with. He is correct, it is not a Lebaron, it is based on the G body (Dodge Daytona), engine is unique to these, it is a 2.2L common block with a Maserati DOHC cylinder head. I do have the information, including wiring diagrams, but there are two engine codes, VIN P or VIN R. According to the VIN R information, knock sensor has an 18 ga BK/RD shielded cable and is on the rear of valve cover, top of engine. Fuel pressure is 53-57 psi, vacuum connected at idle (I am not sure this is correct on the test conditions, my procedure from my factory service manual is that pressure with no vacuum). There is a way to "hotwire" the Automatic Shutdown Relay which powers the coil, fuel pump and injectors and I can tell you how to do it if needed. These systems run some really high fuel pressures, mine currently (when it's on the road) with 15 psi boost and 55 psi static pressure will hit 70 psi under boost. If the pump is bad (it is 34 years old) do not get a cheap replacement, I believe the originals were Walbro. Fuel filters are generally located near the right side rear suspension attachment. If you need more, shoot me an email and I can save it to pdfs and send it to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 24, 2023 Share Posted February 24, 2023 Ok, the 1989 TC by Maserati is what I assume you are dealing with. He is correct, it is not a Lebaron, it is based on the G body (Dodge Daytona), engine is unique to these, it is a 2.2L common block with a Maserati DOHC cylinder head. I do have the information, including wiring diagrams, but there are two engine codes, VIN P or VIN R. According to the VIN R information, knock sensor has an 18 ga BK/RD shielded cable and is on the rear of valve cover, top of engine. Fuel pressure is 53-57 psi, vacuum connected at idle (I am not sure this is correct on the test conditions, my procedure from my factory service manual is that pressure with no vacuum). There is a way to "hotwire" the Automatic Shutdown Relay which powers the coil, fuel pump and injectors and I can tell you how to do it if needed. These systems run some really high fuel pressures, mine currently (when it's on the road) with 15 psi boost and 55 psi static pressure will hit 70 psi under boost. If the pump is bad (it is 34 years old) do not get a cheap replacement, I believe the originals were Walbro. Fuel filters are generally located near the right side rear suspension attachment. If you need more, shoot me an email and I can save it to pdfs and send it to you. this is exactly why I thought of you when this came in. thanks for the reply. yes, we are dealing with the Maserati. one of the things that I noticed was that the fuel tank was weeping. possibly just the sender or pump gasket but surface rust is very evident and often a sign of greater inside corrosion. I said that the tank, pump and sender need to be on the quote first thing. fix what you find first especially if it's related to the complaint. yes, the individual may choose to fix a little piece at a time but when billing hours and having to possibly do things twice or more and holding up a lift in the process, you quote the best option. dealing with mostly fords I don't claim any expertise in the realm of Maserati/Chryslers. i may reach out if this continues. customers call at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 24, 2023 Author Share Posted February 24, 2023 this is exactly why I thought of you when this came in. thanks for the reply. yes, we are dealing with the Maserati. one of the things that I noticed was that the fuel tank was weeping. possibly just the sender or pump gasket but surface rust is very evident and often a sign of greater inside corrosion. I said that the tank, pump and sender need to be on the quote first thing. fix what you find first especially if it's related to the complaint. yes, the individual may choose to fix a little piece at a time but when billing hours and having to possibly do things twice or more and holding up a lift in the process, you quote the best option. dealing with mostly fords I don't claim any expertise in the realm of Maserati/Chryslers. i may reach out if this continues. customers call at this point. No problem, I do have a lot of Chrysler information. Gas tank is probably same as a Dodge Daytona, but many of those tanks are the same, just be sure that the sump for the EFI pump is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Should work. I like Loctite 56747 PST High Temperature Thread Sealant for Stainless Steel Fittings. Jim put me onto that and I use it on lots and lots of things. Seals nicely on hydraulic fittings, sets up enough to prevent bolts from backing out, and prevents galling. But, it is pricey. I figured I needed to get the crank gear finished up so I would at least have a reference for the accessory drive setup. I started by taking the 2.5L gear and cutting away everything behind the front round area then reducing the diameter down close to the keyway. This gave me an OD of around 34mm. The ID of the 2.4L gear is 29.96mm so it had to be opened up. The issue is the gears are extremely hard, the 2.4L one appears to be powdered metal and the 2.5L one may also be, but it cuts a little better. After the initial machining and checking against the cam gears for position, I realized that the 2.5L gear needed a quite thin outer face, but it could be stepped where the recess in the 2.4L gear is. I at least need the pilot and bolt circle for the crank pulley, the holes can be extended into the 2.4L gear to positively locate it on the adapter. I had both pieces pretty well finished and did a trial fit, went together fairly well with a slight press fit. A quick check of position showed me I needed to move the gear out on the crank by about 1/4". I first undercut the back of the outer section to fit into the recess on the 2.4L gear front face, then reduced the thickness until I had about a 1/8" flange at the front of the 2.4L gear. I had previously inserted it and taken an H drill through the M8X1.25 threaded holes to mark where the pulley bolts would end up. After doing this I put the two pieces together and discovered that I had a slight taper on the hub, but figured it would still go together and being tight shouldn't hurt, wrong answer, as I pressed them together I heard a nice "pop" and they slid fairly easily the rest of the way. Here is the, hopefully, finished hub and the now split gear. I do have another gear, I had gotten just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 I figured I needed to get the crank gear finished up so I would at least have a reference for the accessory drive setup. I started by taking the 2.5L gear and cutting away everything behind the front round area then reducing the diameter down close to the keyway. This gave me an OD of around 34mm. The ID of the 2.4L gear is 29.96mm so it had to be opened up. The issue is the gears are extremely hard, the 2.4L one appears to be powdered metal and the 2.5L one may also be, but it cuts a little better. After the initial machining and checking against the cam gears for position, I realized that the 2.5L gear needed a quite thin outer face, but it could be stepped where the recess in the 2.4L gear is. I at least need the pilot and bolt circle for the crank pulley, the holes can be extended into the 2.4L gear to positively locate it on the adapter. I had both pieces pretty well finished and did a trial fit, went together fairly well with a slight press fit. A quick check of position showed me I needed to move the gear out on the crank by about 1/4". I first undercut the back of the outer section to fit into the recess on the 2.4L gear front face, then reduced the thickness until I had about a 1/8" flange at the front of the 2.4L gear. I had previously inserted it and taken an H drill through the M8X1.25 threaded holes to mark where the pulley bolts would end up. After doing this I put the two pieces together and discovered that I had a slight taper on the hub, but figured it would still go together and being tight shouldn't hurt, wrong answer, as I pressed them together I heard a nice "pop" and they slid fairly easily the rest of the way. Here is the, hopefully, finished hub and the now split gear. I do have another gear, I had gotten just in case. Oops! Powdered metal? Glad you have a spare. And I'm glad you are making progress. Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 I figured I needed to get the crank gear finished up so I would at least have a reference for the accessory drive setup. I started by taking the 2.5L gear and cutting away everything behind the front round area then reducing the diameter down close to the keyway. This gave me an OD of around 34mm. The ID of the 2.4L gear is 29.96mm so it had to be opened up. The issue is the gears are extremely hard, the 2.4L one appears to be powdered metal and the 2.5L one may also be, but it cuts a little better. After the initial machining and checking against the cam gears for position, I realized that the 2.5L gear needed a quite thin outer face, but it could be stepped where the recess in the 2.4L gear is. I at least need the pilot and bolt circle for the crank pulley, the holes can be extended into the 2.4L gear to positively locate it on the adapter. I had both pieces pretty well finished and did a trial fit, went together fairly well with a slight press fit. A quick check of position showed me I needed to move the gear out on the crank by about 1/4". I first undercut the back of the outer section to fit into the recess on the 2.4L gear front face, then reduced the thickness until I had about a 1/8" flange at the front of the 2.4L gear. I had previously inserted it and taken an H drill through the M8X1.25 threaded holes to mark where the pulley bolts would end up. After doing this I put the two pieces together and discovered that I had a slight taper on the hub, but figured it would still go together and being tight shouldn't hurt, wrong answer, as I pressed them together I heard a nice "pop" and they slid fairly easily the rest of the way. Here is the, hopefully, finished hub and the now split gear. I do have another gear, I had gotten just in case. Ouch! How much taper are you finding in your lathe? Do you know if it's bed twist or the headstock out of line? That's some tricky fitting with not much to spare. I'm sure you'll get it done in the end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Ouch! How much taper are you finding in your lathe? Do you know if it's bed twist or the headstock out of line? That's some tricky fitting with not much to spare. I'm sure you'll get it done in the end! It was setup error, the two parts of the tool carriage have an angle scale for setting a taper cut. The bolts that lock it are only accessible with the upper section moved almost to where the screw comes out of the nut, like one more turn. I cleaned everything and set the scale to 0°, rechecked over the full travel and it is parallel now. Since I did a truing cut on the hub, I will not have to take as much out of the gear as before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 It was setup error, the two parts of the tool carriage have an angle scale for setting a taper cut. The bolts that lock it are only accessible with the upper section moved almost to where the screw comes out of the nut, like one more turn. I cleaned everything and set the scale to 0°, rechecked over the full travel and it is parallel now. Since I did a truing cut on the hub, I will not have to take as much out of the gear as before. Here is the (mostly) finished crank gear: I need to take a little of the back of the "hub" and then will epoxy it into the 2.4L gear and drill and tap the 5 locations for the pulley bolts. With it lined up with the 2.4L cam gears, it will need a 0.256" spacer inside the hub so that when the bolt is tightened it will be a positive stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Here is the (mostly) finished crank gear: I need to take a little of the back of the "hub" and then will epoxy it into the 2.4L gear and drill and tap the 5 locations for the pulley bolts. With it lined up with the 2.4L cam gears, it will need a 0.256" spacer inside the hub so that when the bolt is tightened it will be a positive stop. Sounds like you have a plan, Stan, but I'm not sure I follow it. However, I'll look forward to the pics that explain it as I'm sure it'll work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts