T2K-CAR

[85lebaront2]

That's great, Bill! Can you farm out replacing the guides and then resurface the seats concentric to the new guides?

Don't know over here on Virginia's appendix. If I can find a tool for driving them in, I can do the job myself, just a big chunk of dry ice and possibly a way to heat the head. I have done many a Mercedes head that way, although I used to be able to obtain LN2 from a "backdoor" source.

[Gary Lewis]

Don't know over here on Virginia's appendix. If I can find a tool for driving them in, I can do the job myself, just a big chunk of dry ice and possibly a way to heat the head. I have done many a Mercedes head that way, although I used to be able to obtain LN2 from a "backdoor" source.

Good luck!

[85lebaront2]

Good luck! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png

First I did some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) on the head gasket differences as seen here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Concerning-Conversation-With-DB-Electrical-tp120818p121030.html

This was using the three different head gaskets, Fel-Pro 9296 PT for the 2.5L which is the cylinder block, 9924 PT which is the 1995 - 2001 2.4L head which is the one i was sold as being for the SRT 4 Neon engine and finally 26202 PT which is for the 2003-2009 2.4L turbo engine and matches the head coming from Memphis with some bent valves.

All the heads use the same bolt pattern and 11 mm bolts, differences are in the oil supply and drain locations. The 2.5L head is similar to a 300 in the fact that both manifolds are on the same side of the head. As a result, the top of the head slants toward the front and all three of the drain holes and a smaller one are on the front near the front three middle head bolts. The oil feed is through a restrictor and up the left front head bolt hole to the oil gallery next to the lash adjusters that feeds them and the 5 cam bearings with squirt slits to lube the cam lobes and followers.

The 2.4L head is similar, but, there are three drain holes on the back side of the head behind the three rear center bolts. there is one in front very close to the location of one of the block's drains. Oil supply is similar, through a restrictor then up the left rear head bolt hole as that will solve a major problem and drill the cross passage at the flywheel end of the head through to it and possibly enlarge the bolt hole slightly.

The oil goes through two parallel galleries next to the lash adjusters and up to the 10 cam bearings.

Now, the more interesting issue, head alignment. The 2.5L block has two small solid dowels at the ends to align the head to the block and ensure that the cam is parallel to the crank, on the 2.4L engine the right rear and left front bolt holes have a 15 mm counter bore for hollow dowels which I (a) haven't found any so (b) took a 5/8" one and made a 15 mm one I can cut to length.

This was done by removing a .094" wide strip then filing the edges, using a small hose clamp to compress it and then a pair of vice grips to reshape it to a mostly round shape. The .094" was cut using a hacksaw blade and the filing was done with something Rusty will appreciate, these:

I have ordered a 15 mm drill from Amazon and have a large Portomag portable drill press that uses a big electromagnet to mount it to a ferrous piece. That way I can secure it and control the depth I relieve for the hollow dowels. The only concern is the left front dowel location is also the oil feed from the 2.5L block so I will need to make sure I have adequate flow. Most of the drains end up as external lines back into the oil pan. I am thinking about using the front center oil drain as a location to pull my PCV valve from so it will create a flow from the head into the oil pan.

[ArdWrknTrk]

First I did some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) on the head gasket differences as seen here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Concerning-Conversation-With-DB-Electrical-tp120818p121030.html

This was using the three different head gaskets, Fel-Pro 9296 PT for the 2.5L which is the cylinder block, 9924 PT which is the 1995 - 2001 2.4L head which is the one i was sold as being for the SRT 4 Neon engine and finally 26202 PT which is for the 2003-2009 2.4L turbo engine and matches the head coming from Memphis with some bent valves.

All the heads use the same bolt pattern and 11 mm bolts, differences are in the oil supply and drain locations. The 2.5L head is similar to a 300 in the fact that both manifolds are on the same side of the head. As a result, the top of the head slants toward the front and all three of the drain holes and a smaller one are on the front near the front three middle head bolts. The oil feed is through a restrictor and up the left front head bolt hole to the oil gallery next to the lash adjusters that feeds them and the 5 cam bearings with squirt slits to lube the cam lobes and followers.

The 2.4L head is similar, but, there are three drain holes on the back side of the head behind the three rear center bolts. there is one in front very close to the location of one of the block's drains. Oil supply is similar, through a restrictor then up the left rear head bolt hole as that will solve a major problem and drill the cross passage at the flywheel end of the head through to it and possibly enlarge the bolt hole slightly.

The oil goes through two parallel galleries next to the lash adjusters and up to the 10 cam bearings.

Now, the more interesting issue, head alignment. The 2.5L block has two small solid dowels at the ends to align the head to the block and ensure that the cam is parallel to the crank, on the 2.4L engine the right rear and left front bolt holes have a 15 mm counter bore for hollow dowels which I (a) haven't found any so (b) took a 5/8" one and made a 15 mm one I can cut to length.

This was done by removing a .094" wide strip then filing the edges, using a small hose clamp to compress it and then a pair of vice grips to reshape it to a mostly round shape. The .094" was cut using a hacksaw blade and the filing was done with something Rusty will appreciate, these:

I have ordered a 15 mm drill from Amazon and have a large Portomag portable drill press that uses a big electromagnet to mount it to a ferrous piece. That way I can secure it and control the depth I relieve for the hollow dowels. The only concern is the left front dowel location is also the oil feed from the 2.5L block so I will need to make sure I have adequate flow. Most of the drains end up as external lines back into the oil pan. I am thinking about using the front center oil drain as a location to pull my PCV valve from so it will create a flow from the head into the oil pan.

Oh man!

I'm a file-ophile, and that makes me jigiddy 😍 🤣

Could you not get a piece of stock from McMaster or impose on Gary to set you up with the right stuff?

That seems a good idea to use engine vacuum to motivate your oil drain back.

[Gary Lewis]

Oh man!

I'm a file-ophile, and that makes me jigiddy 😍 🤣

Could you not get a piece of stock from McMaster or impose on Gary to set you up with the right stuff?

That seems a good idea to use engine vacuum to motivate your oil drain back.

Man, this is serious stuff working with oil supplies and returns. But, what do you need, Bill? Something I can make?

[85lebaront2]

Man, this is serious stuff working with oil supplies and returns. But, what do you need, Bill? Something I can make?

Not at the moment, maybe when I get the Turbo head in and start working on the oil drain issue. I do have one problem though, the Venolia pistons of course came with pins and retainers and the seller threw in a set of late turbo rods which have full floating wrist pins. The problem, Chrysler 2.5L wrist pin size is 0.9009" and rod bushing is 0.9145", Venolia pins are 0.927". Slight problem getting them to fit.

Venolia is of course out of business so no help there. As near as I can measure the actual bore diameter on the rods (outside of the bushing area) it is 0.943" meaning I only have .016" left if I could ream or hone the bores. Bushings appear to be copper on a steel backing. If the bushings are not worn, they seem to be clearanced for 0.0136" using the stock pins.

I may end up calling a place I know in Newport News and see if they have any ideas.

As was mentioned there are no automotive machine shops here on Virginia's appendix.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not at the moment, maybe when I get the Turbo head in and start working on the oil drain issue. I do have one problem though, the Venolia pistons of course came with pins and retainers and the seller threw in a set of late turbo rods which have full floating wrist pins. The problem, Chrysler 2.5L wrist pin size is 0.9009" and rod bushing is 0.9145", Venolia pins are 0.927". Slight problem getting them to fit.

Venolia is of course out of business so no help there. As near as I can measure the actual bore diameter on the rods (outside of the bushing area) it is 0.943" meaning I only have .016" left if I could ream or hone the bores. Bushings appear to be copper on a steel backing. If the bushings are not worn, they seem to be clearanced for 0.0136" using the stock pins.

I may end up calling a place I know in Newport News and see if they have any ideas.

As was mentioned there are no automotive machine shops here on Virginia's appendix.

All the really good engine shops around here are long gone.

I know some race guys that might have connections that could bore and ream connecting rod small ends.

But it's not like I could "take it to Joe in Bridgeport" or "Robbie in Larchmont" any more.

Those guys had equipment and knowledge that isn't any use in 2022.

[85lebaront2]

All the really good engine shops around here are long gone.

I know some race guys that might have connections that could bore and ream connecting rod small ends.

But it's not like I could "take it to Joe in Bridgeport" or "Robbie in Larchmont" any more.

Those guys had equipment and knowledge that isn't any use in 2022.

The one I used for years is gone, Keen's in Smithfield VA, the owner popped up on Facebook a while back, but he had long since closed the machine shop. The place in Newport News is another older shop, Dunkum's, Billy Dunkum is gone, the current owners are great though. Junior Keen and his father both worked for Billy Dunkum when the shop was way downtown.

Keen's did the Cobra 289 from my Shelby after the drain plug came out on I64 with a friend driving. I had a set of .030 over TRW Powerforged pistons I had purchased when a new parts warehouse was opening near us. The owner needed a certain volume of initial stock and told us (Preston) among others to order what we would like at cost + 10%. They went in the 289. Junior said that when he went to balance things, once he equalized the pistons, everything else was already done. That is also when I found the Ford VIN stamped upside down on the right side of the block.

[85lebaront2]

The one I used for years is gone, Keen's in Smithfield VA, the owner popped up on Facebook a while back, but he had long since closed the machine shop. The place in Newport News is another older shop, Dunkum's, Billy Dunkum is gone, the current owners are great though. Junior Keen and his father both worked for Billy Dunkum when the shop was way downtown.

Keen's did the Cobra 289 from my Shelby after the drain plug came out on I64 with a friend driving. I had a set of .030 over TRW Powerforged pistons I had purchased when a new parts warehouse was opening near us. The owner needed a certain volume of initial stock and told us (Preston) among others to order what we would like at cost + 10%. They went in the 289. Junior said that when he went to balance things, once he equalized the pistons, everything else was already done. That is also when I found the Ford VIN stamped upside down on the right side of the block.

Ok, update on the 2.5L Hybrid. I caught the owner of FWD Performance on FB yesterday evening, They have a set of rods with the correct bushings and already set up with ARP bolts. $275 including shipping. I will not be surprised if they are a balanced set. She will ship them tomorrow (Monday) from Tomball TX. I have dealt with her business before so know the quality.

The other head arrived Friday, but due to fighting with a stripped drain plug hole in the 2009 Flex I didn't get to open it and look at it until yesterday. He sent everything except the little hydraulic lash adjusters which I can pull out of the Stratus head. I have the integrated turbocharger exhaust manifold that was used on these engines which limits you to the small Mitsubishi turbo.

He found me a custom manifold that uses the flange for the older Garrett Air Research or Mitsubishi turbos that were used from 1984 and 1989 until the advent of the 2.4L turbo with the integral turbo.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, update on the 2.5L Hybrid. I caught the owner of FWD Performance on FB yesterday evening, They have a set of rods with the correct bushings and already set up with ARP bolts. $275 including shipping. I will not be surprised if they are a balanced set. She will ship them tomorrow (Monday) from Tomball TX. I have dealt with her business before so know the quality.

The other head arrived Friday, but due to fighting with a stripped drain plug hole in the 2009 Flex I didn't get to open it and look at it until yesterday. He sent everything except the little hydraulic lash adjusters which I can pull out of the Stratus head. I have the integrated turbocharger exhaust manifold that was used on these engines which limits you to the small Mitsubishi turbo.

He found me a custom manifold that uses the flange for the older Garrett Air Research or Mitsubishi turbos that were used from 1984 and 1989 until the advent of the 2.4L turbo with the integral turbo.

That sounds like excellent progress, Bill.

So now you don't have to ream the bushings. And you will have the ability to use different turbos.

But did you get the drain plug fixed?