T2K-CAR

[Gary Lewis]

Next week I have a friend who is also into older vehicles coming over, hopefully with his 14 year old stepson so we can get the top down and install it. Hopefully it will be decent enough (it was installed on the 1985 from 2003 till 2009) to at least be reasonably weather tight. Then I will find out if the 1989 heated rear window will fit.

Sounds like a plan, Stan! The extra hands will come in very handy. Hope the window fits.

[85lebaront2]

Sounds like a plan, Stan! The extra hands will come in very handy. Hope the window fits.

Well, the top hasn't happened yet, weather has been somewhat atrocious, rain, snow, temperatures in the teens, wind in the 20s. It will be done at some point.

In the mean time, I am trying to find some walnut grain vinyl contact paper for the switch plates in the door armrests. They originally have aluminum with black letters for the window switches. I modified the driver's side to relocate the power seat switch and the passenger side will have a blank piece as the window switches are now in the console.

The only walnut grain I have found is on Amazon and is a roughly 10' long roll.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, the top hasn't happened yet, weather has been somewhat atrocious, rain, snow, temperatures in the teens, wind in the 20s. It will be done at some point.

In the mean time, I am trying to find some walnut grain vinyl contact paper for the switch plates in the door armrests. They originally have aluminum with black letters for the window switches. I modified the driver's side to relocate the power seat switch and the passenger side will have a blank piece as the window switches are now in the console.

The only walnut grain I have found is on Amazon and is a roughly 10' long roll.

Bill - I wish I had some, I'd send it to you. But there won't be as many viewers of your post here as if you were to start a new thread in the main section. Lots more will see it there and it won't cost anything. But you might give them some idea of how much you need.

 

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I wish I had some, I'd send it to you. But there won't be as many viewers of your post here as if you were to start a new thread in the main section. Lots more will see it there and it won't cost anything. But you might give them some idea of how much you need.

Gary, that did work and I have some that is a little lighter, but looks nice on the panel inserts.

One of the items I am redoing relates to the power windows and seat. On the 1986, the power window switches were laid out relatively normally, master switch in left door armrest, one for the passenger side in that door armrest, and no switches in the back. The 1989 center console has all 4 window switches in it along with the power top and rear window defroster.

The 1986 Power seat has the switches on the outside of the lower cushion area, the 1989 convertible has them in the left door armrest, but the 1989 coupe has them in the center console. I modified the left armrest switch panel to use the 1989 coupe power seat switch, but after some further thoughts (primarily voltage drop) harness from the switch to the seat motors ended up being about 8 feet end to end, so 16 feet round trip from switch through motor and return. My solution is a set of 6 small Bosch relays that will be mounted under the seat and fed/grounded with 14ga red and black wires. This also removes 1 12ga red wire from the door harness and 6 16 ga wires, black 12 ga stays as it is the ground for the other items and was the power window switch ground. Since the relay coils can be grounded along with the 87a terminals under the seat and the relay coils work with 20 ga feeds, my door to body wiring will be a bit more compact. The switch to relay wires are nicely color coded 20 ga silicone insulated and extremely flexible.

Here is the relay block. 1 - 2 are horizontal, 3 - 4 are front vertical, 5 - 6 are rear vertical. Power and ground are the red and black "spiders" black being double, 16 ga to relay 87a and 18 ga to relay coil 85, small colored wires are 20 ga the relay coil 86.

Relays are actual later Chrysler parts.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, that did work and I have some that is a little lighter, but looks nice on the panel inserts.

One of the items I am redoing relates to the power windows and seat. On the 1986, the power window switches were laid out relatively normally, master switch in left door armrest, one for the passenger side in that door armrest, and no switches in the back. The 1989 center console has all 4 window switches in it along with the power top and rear window defroster.

The 1986 Power seat has the switches on the outside of the lower cushion area, the 1989 convertible has them in the left door armrest, but the 1989 coupe has them in the center console. I modified the left armrest switch panel to use the 1989 coupe power seat switch, but after some further thoughts (primarily voltage drop) harness from the switch to the seat motors ended up being about 8 feet end to end, so 16 feet round trip from switch through motor and return. My solution is a set of 6 small Bosch relays that will be mounted under the seat and fed/grounded with 14ga red and black wires. This also removes 1 12ga red wire from the door harness and 6 16 ga wires, black 12 ga stays as it is the ground for the other items and was the power window switch ground. Since the relay coils can be grounded along with the 87a terminals under the seat and the relay coils work with 20 ga feeds, my door to body wiring will be a bit more compact. The switch to relay wires are nicely color coded 20 ga silicone insulated and extremely flexible.

Here is the relay block. 1 - 2 are horizontal, 3 - 4 are front vertical, 5 - 6 are rear vertical. Power and ground are the red and black "spiders" black being double, 16 ga to relay 87a and 18 ga to relay coil 85, small colored wires are 20 ga the relay coil 86.

Relays are actual later Chrysler parts.

The other item from yesterday was a "topping off" party. Had the neighbor and his wife and two sons come over and this got done:

It still needs a nice warm day to soften the vinyl some more so I can smooth it out. Top will need to be replaced as it was originally installed on the 1985 in 2003 and has been stored since late 2009.

[Gary Lewis]

The other item from yesterday was a "topping off" party. Had the neighbor and his wife and two sons come over and this got done:

It still needs a nice warm day to soften the vinyl some more so I can smooth it out. Top will need to be replaced as it was originally installed on the 1985 in 2003 and has been stored since late 2009.

PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!!!

The relay block is a very good idea and, as you explained, minimizes the # of wires in the run as well as the overall circuit lengths. That should help a lot on the motors' abilities to get the job done.

And getting the top on is a huge milestone, even if you think it needs to be replaced at some point. Just getting it on is a big step.

[85lebaront2]

PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!!!

The relay block is a very good idea and, as you explained, minimizes the # of wires in the run as well as the overall circuit lengths. That should help a lot on the motors' abilities to get the job done.

And getting the top on is a huge milestone, even if you think it needs to be replaced at some point. Just getting it on is a big step.

Got some more of the power seat relays done. Here is the relay block with the relays and wiring labeled:

The wiring is not done as all one piece, but is in three sections, under seat, sill plate and door. Here is the sill plate:

Here is the section inside the door and into the left kick panel connection area:

This is the switch connections and switch:

All the wiring switch to relays is 20 ga, max current load is 0.28 amps at 13.7 VDC with either of the seat up or down (both ends at once) switches actuated.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Got some more of the power seat relays done. Here is the relay block with the relays and wiring labeled:

The wiring is not done as all one piece, but is in three sections, under seat, sill plate and door. Here is the sill plate:

Here is the section inside the door and into the left kick panel connection area:

This is the switch connections and switch:

All the wiring switch to relays is 20 ga, max current load is 0.28 amps at 13.7 VDC with either of the seat up or down (both ends at once) switches actuated.

Looks good, Bill. But that sure isn't much current draw. I'm assuming that is just to pull the relays in?

[85lebaront2]

Looks good, Bill. But that sure isn't much current draw. I'm assuming that is just to pull the relays in?

Yes, that is the relay coils, the seat circuit has a 30 amp breaker and it is possible to have two motors stalled at the end of either going full up or full down.

Biggest thing was to get rid of nearly 10 feet of wiring between the power/ground source through the switch and back to the motors. The updated system has 12 ga feed and ground to within 6" of the relay contacts where it branches to 6 16 ga power and ground feeds.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that is the relay coils, the seat circuit has a 30 amp breaker and it is possible to have two motors stalled at the end of either going full up or full down.

Biggest thing was to get rid of nearly 10 feet of wiring between the power/ground source through the switch and back to the motors. The updated system has 12 ga feed and ground to within 6" of the relay contacts where it branches to 6 16 ga power and ground feeds.

That ought to drive the motors quite well.