T2K-CAR

[Gary Lewis]

Thank you sir. This is one of the times I wish I had a small milling machine.

Yep, a mill makes work like that very clean. Nice straight lines. But setup is tedious. For something like your panel I'd affix it to a sacrificial piece of wood and mill both the panel and some of the wood at the same time.

The only problem is the corners, which will be rounded. So if you want square corners you'll have some file work to do. Or, if you are ok with rounded you may want to use a small diameter mill, and then you have to go SLOWLY or you'll break the mill. I broke a 1/8" mill the other day cutting out the template for my radio bezel. I had the RPM too low and even with the very, very slow feed it broke.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yep, a mill makes work like that very clean. Nice straight lines. But setup is tedious. For something like your panel I'd affix it to a sacrificial piece of wood and mill both the panel and some of the wood at the same time.

The only problem is the corners, which will be rounded. So if you want square corners you'll have some file work to do. Or, if you are ok with rounded you may want to use a small diameter mill, and then you have to go SLOWLY or you'll break the mill. I broke a 1/8" mill the other day cutting out the template for my radio bezel. I had the RPM too low and even with the very, very slow feed it broke.

You were milling in plastic?

I'd go as fast as I could without melting.

An air nozzle if you don't have a spray lubricant setup will at least get the chips out of there, so they don't get cut again and again.

[Gary Lewis]

You were milling in plastic?

I'd go as fast as I could without melting.

An air nozzle if you don't have a spray lubricant setup will at least get the chips out of there, so they don't get cut again and again.

I milled out a template in aluminum, got it to fit, and then used that to lay out the plastic. And I had to use the Dremel on the plastic as I couldn't get it in the mill due to its shape.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I milled out a template in aluminum, got it to fit, and then used that to lay out the plastic. And I had to use the Dremel on the plastic as I couldn't get it in the mill due to its shape.

Dremel makes a little router base for their tool.

Put a collar in the base or a ball bearing on the shank of the bit.

Of course this means you need to make the template bigger by the difference in radius between the bit and bearing....

[grumpin]

Dremel makes a little router base for their tool.

Put a collar in the base or a ball bearing on the shank of the bit.

Of course this means you need to make the template bigger by the difference in radius between the bit and bearing....

Nice work Bill! I agree doing things by feel when driving is nice. Don’t have a touch screen yet.

[85lebaront2]

Nice work Bill! I agree doing things by feel when driving is nice. Don’t have a touch screen yet.

Thanks Dane and Semper Fi from a Motor T Chief.

 

[grumpin]

Thanks Dane and Semper Fi from a Motor T Chief.

Semper Fi! Motor T rocks!

[85lebaront2]

Semper Fi! Motor T rocks!

Ok, now I am almost finished. I ended up using another piece of the flat section from the 1986 dash. The reason is attaching it and making the mounting for the front "invisible" is easier. I will use some small (6-32 probably) flat head Phillips or Torx screws that I can countersink, jam nut on the back and once they are in I can cover the front with a piece of Vinyl or similar in black, preferably a semi gloss so it won't be bright in the sun. On the back side on the assembly I will use nuts, flat washers and lock washers. The only piece that will require removal of the front is the hazard switch, the dimmer and rear window defroster switches come out from the back and the power point socket comes out one piece in each direction.

If you look in the power point socket, it was a lighter socket, with bad bi-metal springs for the lighter element. Since the springs were extremely rusty and one broke when I touched it, I removed them so it can't be used as a lighter socket. Cleaned the brass center contact and the inside of the socket and it works perfectly.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, now I am almost finished. I ended up using another piece of the flat section from the 1986 dash. The reason is attaching it and making the mounting for the front "invisible" is easier. I will use some small (6-32 probably) flat head Phillips or Torx screws that I can countersink, jam nut on the back and once they are in I can cover the front with a piece of Vinyl or similar in black, preferably a semi gloss so it won't be bright in the sun. On the back side on the assembly I will use nuts, flat washers and lock washers. The only piece that will require removal of the front is the hazard switch, the dimmer and rear window defroster switches come out from the back and the power point socket comes out one piece in each direction.

If you look in the power point socket, it was a lighter socket, with bad bi-metal springs for the lighter element. Since the springs were extremely rusty and one broke when I touched it, I removed them so it can't be used as a lighter socket. Cleaned the brass center contact and the inside of the socket and it works perfectly.

Looking great, Bill!

And the plan on the fasteners sounds good as well. Good plan, Stan.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, now I am almost finished. I ended up using another piece of the flat section from the 1986 dash. The reason is attaching it and making the mounting for the front "invisible" is easier. I will use some small (6-32 probably) flat head Phillips or Torx screws that I can countersink, jam nut on the back and once they are in I can cover the front with a piece of Vinyl or similar in black, preferably a semi gloss so it won't be bright in the sun. On the back side on the assembly I will use nuts, flat washers and lock washers. The only piece that will require removal of the front is the hazard switch, the dimmer and rear window defroster switches come out from the back and the power point socket comes out one piece in each direction.

If you look in the power point socket, it was a lighter socket, with bad bi-metal springs for the lighter element. Since the springs were extremely rusty and one broke when I touched it, I removed them so it can't be used as a lighter socket. Cleaned the brass center contact and the inside of the socket and it works perfectly.

Progress is Good, Bill!

I've never thought of the difference between a power point and a lighter socket, but today I learned something.

Thank You!