T2K-CAR

[Gary Lewis]

Pictures continued:

1990 BCM installed and harness mocked in position.

Right end of harness channel, screws and metal is where it was broken. Harness above is the power windows, locks and mirrors portion that goes from door to door (original 1986 one went across the floor).

50 way connector plug, this is the female or engine side.

Harnesses pretty well set in place. Small hoses are side window demisters.

From the other side.

Rear of left side, top frame is just to check cylinder to connecter plug and wiring clearance through it's stroke.

Slight location issue with the connection to the console for the top controls.

Wow! That's a LOT of wires! You have all of them connected?

You are really making progress. When's the projected completion date?

[85lebaront2]

Wow! That's a LOT of wires! You have all of them connected?

You are really making progress. When's the projected completion date?

Pretty much, there are still a few that I need to work out, a ground for the heated rear window that opens when the top is down so it can't be accidently activated and a wire from the amplifier (black box under the passenger's seat) that needs to be grounded when the top is down to activate the top down equalizer mode. The group of plugs (two round and two roughly rectangular) are for the instrument cluster, either analog (round plugs) or digital. The audio system is near the center and the wiring to and from the amplifier is done. I need to add one wire for the power deck lid release, the J body cars used a mechanical cable release, the K and E bodies used a power release latch assembly.

Right now I am in the testing and verifying portion as I was having a problem with the mode actuator on the ATC system and need to run the diagnostic tests on it while it is easier to reach. I will need to make a switch panel to mount the dimmer, hazard and heated rear window switches. There is a location under the radio that was used for a storage cubby (open) or cup holders in a pull-out. The latter will not work due to the shifter location.

The hazard system is what I want to use a push on/push off switch on, it needs to switch the power source for the flasher from ignition switched (turn signal) to battery (hazard), ground the pin that activates the flasher and ground the two relay sets for the turn signals in the hazard mode. The relay wires have to be ungrounded at the hazard switch for normal operation. This means a minimum of 12 pins, 4 center, 4 for normal operation and 4 more for hazard operation (not all are in use). Right now I found a 4 pole, single throw rocker switch that will work, but I was trying to find a push button style. If I use the one I did find, since it has some extra pins (18 all together) I may add an LED that will give a visual indication it is on as I am not sure the digital cluster turn signal indicators work with the ignition off.

[Gary Lewis]

Pretty much, there are still a few that I need to work out, a ground for the heated rear window that opens when the top is down so it can't be accidently activated and a wire from the amplifier (black box under the passenger's seat) that needs to be grounded when the top is down to activate the top down equalizer mode. The group of plugs (two round and two roughly rectangular) are for the instrument cluster, either analog (round plugs) or digital. The audio system is near the center and the wiring to and from the amplifier is done. I need to add one wire for the power deck lid release, the J body cars used a mechanical cable release, the K and E bodies used a power release latch assembly.

Right now I am in the testing and verifying portion as I was having a problem with the mode actuator on the ATC system and need to run the diagnostic tests on it while it is easier to reach. I will need to make a switch panel to mount the dimmer, hazard and heated rear window switches. There is a location under the radio that was used for a storage cubby (open) or cup holders in a pull-out. The latter will not work due to the shifter location.

The hazard system is what I want to use a push on/push off switch on, it needs to switch the power source for the flasher from ignition switched (turn signal) to battery (hazard), ground the pin that activates the flasher and ground the two relay sets for the turn signals in the hazard mode. The relay wires have to be ungrounded at the hazard switch for normal operation. This means a minimum of 12 pins, 4 center, 4 for normal operation and 4 more for hazard operation (not all are in use). Right now I found a 4 pole, single throw rocker switch that will work, but I was trying to find a push button style. If I use the one I did find, since it has some extra pins (18 all together) I may add an LED that will give a visual indication it is on as I am not sure the digital cluster turn signal indicators work with the ignition off.

Is there something like a pin switch that opens when the top is down. If so it could pull in a relay provides ground to the amp when the top is down and ground to the heater when it is up.

But the hazard system seems complex. Glad you think you have it solved.

[85lebaront2]

Is there something like a pin switch that opens when the top is down. If so it could pull in a relay provides ground to the amp when the top is down and ground to the heater when it is up.

But the hazard system seems complex. Glad you think you have it solved.

Believe it or not, a garden tractor/riding mower safety switch will do the job. They are essentially two switches in a plastic housing, one is a NO the other an NC. The NO switch is used to disable the starter if the PTO or clutch is not disengaged, the NC is used to kill the engine if the PTO or clutch is engaged and the operator leaves the seat (other switches are involved). Using the NO portion for the heated window switch latch ground and the NC for the amplifier signal ground it will do what is needed, turn off the heated rear window and change the amplifier equalization. It is a matter of where to locate it so something in the top mechanism will operate it.

[Gary Lewis]

Believe it or not, a garden tractor/riding mower safety switch will do the job. They are essentially two switches in a plastic housing, one is a NO the other an NC. The NO switch is used to disable the starter if the PTO or clutch is not disengaged, the NC is used to kill the engine if the PTO or clutch is engaged and the operator leaves the seat (other switches are involved). Using the NO portion for the heated window switch latch ground and the NC for the amplifier signal ground it will do what is needed, turn off the heated rear window and change the amplifier equalization. It is a matter of where to locate it so something in the top mechanism will operate it.

That's cool! I'd never looked to see how the switch on my JD mower works, but that seems to explain it.

[85lebaront2]

That's cool! I'd never looked to see how the switch on my JD mower works, but that seems to explain it.

Today, I finally got the mode actuator for the 1992 Imperial electronic automatic temperature control to function properly and not give me any error messages. After that it was time to reinstall the dash over the new wiring system. Still needs a little massaging on the right end, the defroster duct and wire channel don't want to play well together.

1990 fuse box, each headlight set low and high beam are individually fused.

The 1990 dimmer module that the previously built switch controls.

Modified 1994 Taurus Headlight switch.

Relay box for parking lamps, headlights, turn signals, door locks and horn.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Today, I finally got the mode actuator for the 1992 Imperial electronic automatic temperature control to function properly and not give me any error messages. After that it was time to reinstall the dash over the new wiring system. Still needs a little massaging on the right end, the defroster duct and wire channel don't want to play well together.

1990 fuse box, each headlight set low and high beam are individually fused.

The 1990 dimmer module that the previously built switch controls.

Modified 1994 Taurus Headlight switch.

Relay box for parking lamps, headlights, turn signals, door locks and horn.

Before our wayward friend says it, I'll say it: Progress is good!

So, with the dash basically sorted, what is next? What is left?

[85lebaront2]

Before our wayward friend says it, I'll say it: Progress is good!

So, with the dash basically sorted, what is next? What is left?

There are a few small pinholes in the floor that need to be repaired, charge the AC system. After that get the exhaust system installed. Once those are done I have to order the carpet (a molded single piece) so it can go in. Once the carpet is installed, I can finish the lower part of the dash as it bolts to the center reinforcement right in front of the shifter.

Then I have to finish repairing the broken spring tabs on dash top panel, install the two dash speakers and put the top with the sun load sensor on. Seats, door panels need upholstering and once I get the top down from the storage shelf and mounted, it needs replacing as it was on the 1985 from 2003 until it was totaled in 2009.

[Gary Lewis]

There are a few small pinholes in the floor that need to be repaired, charge the AC system. After that get the exhaust system installed. Once those are done I have to order the carpet (a molded single piece) so it can go in. Once the carpet is installed, I can finish the lower part of the dash as it bolts to the center reinforcement right in front of the shifter.

Then I have to finish repairing the broken spring tabs on dash top panel, install the two dash speakers and put the top with the sun load sensor on. Seats, door panels need upholstering and once I get the top down from the storage shelf and mounted, it needs replacing as it was on the 1985 from 2003 until it was totaled in 2009.

Those are doable things. You can do it!

Once you seal the floor are you going to put some sound deadening down?

[85lebaront2]

Those are doable things. You can do it!

Once you seal the floor are you going to put some sound deadening down?

There are jute pads in each footwell and the carpet is molded on a rubber backing. Besides, sound deadening in a convertible? Most of the noise is from the top anyway, that and around the tops of the windows.