T2K-CAR

[85lebaront2]

Over half a year does qualify as "a while".

But I'm glad you are now able to work on it.

And it is looking good! How thick is that aluminum?

The pieces on the front of the engine are 1/4" as I didn't want to take any more than that off the timing belt tensioner base. They are doubled above and below the mount area as can be seen in the second picture. There are 5 M10X1.5 bolts holding the plate to the front of the block, one of which also holds the front upper end of the tensioner base and the mount base (triangular casting) bottom and back bolts go into the doubled 1/4" plate sections. I had to bolt them together as I do not have AL welding capability. If I can find someone who can do it at a reasonable price I will probably get it done and then have them plug weld where the M6X1.0 bolt holes are.

The top view was with a 1/4" thick piece of cardboard for making a pattern. The automatic tensioner has an M8X1.0 pitch bolt locking the spring housing in place, the bolt actually protrudes about 1/8" now so the rear plate is drilled and then with the modified base installed tapped so the bolt goes into the back plate.

On the back side of the PS mount, the outer bolt attaching it will have a brace running to one of the M10X1.5 holes for the right axle intermediate bearing support. This will be to keep the pump mount from flexing and vibrating. I have another timing belt automatic tensioner that may end up between the crank and PS pump pulleys as that will be the slack portion of the serpentine belt. I do have a couple of tensioners to play with.

[Gary Lewis]

The pieces on the front of the engine are 1/4" as I didn't want to take any more than that off the timing belt tensioner base. They are doubled above and below the mount area as can be seen in the second picture. There are 5 M10X1.5 bolts holding the plate to the front of the block, one of which also holds the front upper end of the tensioner base and the mount base (triangular casting) bottom and back bolts go into the doubled 1/4" plate sections. I had to bolt them together as I do not have AL welding capability. If I can find someone who can do it at a reasonable price I will probably get it done and then have them plug weld where the M6X1.0 bolt holes are.

The top view was with a 1/4" thick piece of cardboard for making a pattern. The automatic tensioner has an M8X1.0 pitch bolt locking the spring housing in place, the bolt actually protrudes about 1/8" now so the rear plate is drilled and then with the modified base installed tapped so the bolt goes into the back plate.

On the back side of the PS mount, the outer bolt attaching it will have a brace running to one of the M10X1.5 holes for the right axle intermediate bearing support. This will be to keep the pump mount from flexing and vibrating. I have another timing belt automatic tensioner that may end up between the crank and PS pump pulleys as that will be the slack portion of the serpentine belt. I do have a couple of tensioners to play with.

Sounds like you have it well thought out.

[85lebaront2]

Sounds like you have it well thought out.

Prashant came by late Friday night and dropped this off:

It is a proper turbo hood for a 1986 K body Lebaron.

I had paid a fellow in Ohio for it and Prashant had picked it up and taken it to Atlanta. He then went back to India for quite a while and when he finally returned he dropped it by on his way to NYC.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Prashant came by late Friday night and dropped this off:

It is a proper turbo hood for a 1986 K body Lebaron.

I had paid a fellow in Ohio for it and Prashant had picked it up and taken it to Atlanta. He then went back to India for quite a while and when he finally returned he dropped it by on his way to NYC.

Is there an extractor fan, or does it just work passively?

[85lebaront2]

Is there an extractor fan, or does it just work passively?

It just works passively.

[Gary Lewis]

Prashant came by late Friday night and dropped this off:

It is a proper turbo hood for a 1986 K body Lebaron.

I had paid a fellow in Ohio for it and Prashant had picked it up and taken it to Atlanta. He then went back to India for quite a while and when he finally returned he dropped it by on his way to NYC.

That's great, Bill!

[grumpin]

Prashant came by late Friday night and dropped this off:

It is a proper turbo hood for a 1986 K body Lebaron.

I had paid a fellow in Ohio for it and Prashant had picked it up and taken it to Atlanta. He then went back to India for quite a while and when he finally returned he dropped it by on his way to NYC.

What a long strange trip it's been!

[85lebaront2]

One of the other things I have been planning on long term is a different ATC system. The ones built for the FWD platforms were mostly semi-automatic meaning mode selection might be automatic but blower speeds were manually set. Temperature control was definitely automatic. Back in the late 60s into the mid 70s, Chrysler had what they called "AutoTemp", possibly a play on their AirTemp line of home and industrial air conditioning units. The last iteration of the AutoTemp was the 1974 AutoTemp II that was discontinued when the only RWD cars were the Aspen and Volare.

For years Chrysler vehicles had a sandwiched evaporator and heater core located underhood and temperature control was done with the heater through a thermally controlled flow valve which once set would do a pretty good job of maintaning the set temperature. The early AutoTemp and the first versions of the AutoTemp II were designed around the sandwiched core design rather than a blend door design. Essentially the under hood portion had the blower and the two sandwiched cores, inside were the distribution ducts and the fresh/recirculating air door. This basic design wasn't changed until the early to mid 70s and there were a number of different water control valve designs, the last of which was the most elaborate, this had both supply and return lines connected to it and on a manual system, a vacuum control fed through a temerature sensing control valve so that the set reheat temperature would be pretty well constant unless the temperature setting was changed. On the AutoTemp II this valve was replaced by a servo valve that also incorporated fan speed and vacuum mode controls. When the system was changed to a blend door design, the servo was moved inside the car and now operated the blend door through a lever and connecting link.

The previous version, with the big servo water flow control valve showed up on Mercedes-Benz upper models starting in 1975. When I was working for the Mercedes-Benz dealer, they did not have a tester for the systems. I took my Robinair ATC tester in and drew a pair of the mating plugs for the M-B system, wired them into my tester and used it to test and repair the M-B units.

top picture is the system controls, less the vacuum harnes laid out for electrical testing

bottom picture is the Robinair ATC system tester

[Gary Lewis]

That's a pretty cool system!  I wasn't aware that Chrysler had that.  So you are going with the later system which is fully automatic?

The Bullnose systems I've been around have required frequent attention go get the temp "right", and then something changes and you have to tweak it again.  Fully auto would be nice, but even semi-auto would be an improvement.

Kind of odd that it took so long for things to get integrated.  Even my 58 Chevy had some feedback capability on the heater temp, although it didn't have AC.  There was a hose from the heater plenum to the control valve for the flow, and it would do a pretty good job of keeping the temp constant.

[BigBrother-84]

4 minutes ago, Gary Lewis said:

That's a pretty cool system!

Gary...