T2K-CAR

[85lebaront2]

It is a 42-tooth sprocket on the cams? So you are off 1/84 or 4 degrees. That's a bit much to advance or retard the cams from what I remember.

But I'm missing how you might get it lined up on the crank. Offset key?

Yes, 42 teeth on the cans and intermediate shaft which drives the oil pump and originally the distributor. Crank is 21 teeth. The 2.5L engine used a similar belt profile, but a 20 tooth crank and 40 tooth cam and intermediate shaft.

The cams are timed using two notches on the rim of the gears and the arrows that say "up" and "2.4L Front", the back side says "2.0L Front". I am planning on using a straight edge across the 4 notches on the cam gears than use one of my Irwin soft jaw clamps to hold them in place. Since 1/2 tooth on a 42 tooth gear = 1 tooth on a 21 tooth gear, I am hoping it is just a tooth off at the crank as lining these up can sometimes be a real pain. This is why I am trying setting it up with no valve gear to push the cams one way or the other.

[85lebaront2]

Yes, 42 teeth on the cans and intermediate shaft which drives the oil pump and originally the distributor. Crank is 21 teeth. The 2.5L engine used a similar belt profile, but a 20 tooth crank and 40 tooth cam and intermediate shaft.

The cams are timed using two notches on the rim of the gears and the arrows that say "up" and "2.4L Front", the back side says "2.0L Front". I am planning on using a straight edge across the 4 notches on the cam gears than use one of my Irwin soft jaw clamps to hold them in place. Since 1/2 tooth on a 42 tooth gear = 1 tooth on a 21 tooth gear, I am hoping it is just a tooth off at the crank as lining these up can sometimes be a real pain. This is why I am trying setting it up with no valve gear to push the cams one way or the other.

Ok, did a careful setting of the cam gears, and the crank ends up 1/3 tooth advanced, or 5.714° which converts to 2.857° retard at the cams. My TDC mark that I made on the crank seal housing using the timing marks that the cam and intermediate shaft are set to the crank so are not an absolute value so much as a setting (like cam and crank on a Ford V8). Unfortunately my degree wheel is buried somewhere in a container in Newport News. I will need it, a piston stop (easy with the head on as the plugs are centered and vertical) in order to figure out exact degrees.

Here is the tensioner setting after turning the crank 8 - 10 revolutions:

I got the early water pump in today, had the housing since Saturday and had already found a Ford Thermactor pump pulley for a six rib belt (probably off "Big Ugly" the 1990 parts truck). In doing a rough measurement of ODs on the original crank pulley grooved portion and the clockwise rotation water pump grooved pulley then doing the same for the VW balancer and Ford Thermactor pulley, my setup will spin the water pump 18.92% vs the original 18.18% faster than the crank so water flow should be good.

I will have to make a spacer for the Ford pulley to line it up with the balancer grooves. This will allow me to use my spare FS10 compressor and either a Ford remoter reservoir PS pump or a Saginaw pump and an alternator with a 6 groove pulley and a tensioner on the return side of the serpentine belt.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, did a careful setting of the cam gears, and the crank ends up 1/3 tooth advanced, or 5.714° which converts to 2.857° retard at the cams. My TDC mark that I made on the crank seal housing using the timing marks that the cam and intermediate shaft are set to the crank so are not an absolute value so much as a setting (like cam and crank on a Ford V8). Unfortunately my degree wheel is buried somewhere in a container in Newport News. I will need it, a piston stop (easy with the head on as the plugs are centered and vertical) in order to figure out exact degrees.

Here is the tensioner setting after turning the crank 8 - 10 revolutions:

I got the early water pump in today, had the housing since Saturday and had already found a Ford Thermactor pump pulley for a six rib belt (probably off "Big Ugly" the 1990 parts truck). In doing a rough measurement of ODs on the original crank pulley grooved portion and the clockwise rotation water pump grooved pulley then doing the same for the VW balancer and Ford Thermactor pulley, my setup will spin the water pump 18.92% vs the original 18.18% faster than the crank so water flow should be good.

I will have to make a spacer for the Ford pulley to line it up with the balancer grooves. This will allow me to use my spare FS10 compressor and either a Ford remoter reservoir PS pump or a Saginaw pump and an alternator with a 6 groove pulley and a tensioner on the return side of the serpentine belt.

Can you find your timing wheel? I have one and the other stuff to send you.

[85lebaront2]

Can you find your timing wheel? I have one and the other stuff to send you.

I have an idea where it is, but it's not easily accessible as it is in a large container in Newport News VA. As I am not planning on building the 2.5L DOHC hybrid right away, it isn't super critical.

The other item I need to figure out how to make is the spacer for the water pump pulley, or find one of the old fan spacer kits. It needs a bore on the pump side for the small pilot section of the shaft and a matching pilot on the pulley side. Probably right around 1/4" thick.

I still have to figure out mounts for:

AC compressor - probably front side

PS pump - with a remote reservoir where ever it fits

Alternator - need to get a later model one, smaller, higher output

Belt tensioner - once the others are located

[Gary Lewis]

I have an idea where it is, but it's not easily accessible as it is in a large container in Newport News VA. As I am not planning on building the 2.5L DOHC hybrid right away, it isn't super critical.

The other item I need to figure out how to make is the spacer for the water pump pulley, or find one of the old fan spacer kits. It needs a bore on the pump side for the small pilot section of the shaft and a matching pilot on the pulley side. Probably right around 1/4" thick.

I still have to figure out mounts for:

AC compressor - probably front side

PS pump - with a remote reservoir where ever it fits

Alternator - need to get a later model one, smaller, higher output

Belt tensioner - once the others are located

Ok, if it isn't critical let's wait. I'll send you an email re that subject.

[85lebaront2]

Ok, if it isn't critical let's wait. I'll send you an email re that subject.

I have been off and on fiddling with the Konvertible hybrid engine, I went to Pick-n-Pull Labor day weekend with a friend from Virginia Beach and got some parts off a Chrysler Corp minivan with a 2.4L engine, intake manifold, AC compressor and mount and PS pump, all of which sit on the front side on a van. The alternator wasn't real easy so I left it there, did get some of the wiring for the engine.

Then a week ago last Thursday, I went to Newport News with the same friend and my Aluma trailer and picked up a 2.4L engine from a Dodge Stratus, primarily for the accessory mounts and accessories. It has the AC compressor in front like the van, alternator above it and PS pump on the back. It also has a much more compact mount bracket that is aluminum instead of cast iron.

Since there is limited space between the engine and shock tower, I had decided to go with a serpentine drive belt rather than 2 V belts and a small 4 rib polygroove. I looked at my options, first, the layout on the 2.2/2.5L engines is: water pump low on the front, alternator outboard (forward of it) AC compressor up almost completely in front of the head and PS pump high in the rear so it sits a little above the exhaust manifold. Chrysler used two different water pumps, 1982-1988 it was a clockwise rotation using a 4 groove pulley, the belt went around the alternator pulley, down under the water pump pulley then back to the crank pulley. In 1989 the water pump was changed to a counterclockwise rotation, which had two improvements, first the water flow has a smoother transition into the block and the alternator belt wrap is increased eliminating the startup squeal that was almost impossible to get rid of. The belt now ran around the alternator pulley, over top of the smooth water pump pulley then down to the crank pulley.

I tried looking at it with the early pulley (I made a 6 groove one from a Ford air pump pulley) and getting enough wrap on the alternator and AC compressor would involve putting an idler almost against the crank pulley. If I use the reverse rotation pump, I have to find a wide enough smooth drum/pulley for the water pump, but I retain the improvements. AC will still be up front, but a little lower to clear the intake, PS on back, lower down with a remote reservoir.

Belt drives as built for 2.2/2.5L

Belt drive using serpentine (center idler may or my not be needed)

[Gary Lewis]

I have been off and on fiddling with the Konvertible hybrid engine, I went to Pick-n-Pull Labor day weekend with a friend from Virginia Beach and got some parts off a Chrysler Corp minivan with a 2.4L engine, intake manifold, AC compressor and mount and PS pump, all of which sit on the front side on a van. The alternator wasn't real easy so I left it there, did get some of the wiring for the engine.

Then a week ago last Thursday, I went to Newport News with the same friend and my Aluma trailer and picked up a 2.4L engine from a Dodge Stratus, primarily for the accessory mounts and accessories. It has the AC compressor in front like the van, alternator above it and PS pump on the back. It also has a much more compact mount bracket that is aluminum instead of cast iron.

Since there is limited space between the engine and shock tower, I had decided to go with a serpentine drive belt rather than 2 V belts and a small 4 rib polygroove. I looked at my options, first, the layout on the 2.2/2.5L engines is: water pump low on the front, alternator outboard (forward of it) AC compressor up almost completely in front of the head and PS pump high in the rear so it sits a little above the exhaust manifold. Chrysler used two different water pumps, 1982-1988 it was a clockwise rotation using a 4 groove pulley, the belt went around the alternator pulley, down under the water pump pulley then back to the crank pulley. In 1989 the water pump was changed to a counterclockwise rotation, which had two improvements, first the water flow has a smoother transition into the block and the alternator belt wrap is increased eliminating the startup squeal that was almost impossible to get rid of. The belt now ran around the alternator pulley, over top of the smooth water pump pulley then down to the crank pulley.

I tried looking at it with the early pulley (I made a 6 groove one from a Ford air pump pulley) and getting enough wrap on the alternator and AC compressor would involve putting an idler almost against the crank pulley. If I use the reverse rotation pump, I have to find a wide enough smooth drum/pulley for the water pump, but I retain the improvements. AC will still be up front, but a little lower to clear the intake, PS on back, lower down with a remote reservoir.

Belt drives as built for 2.2/2.5L

Belt drive using serpentine (center idler may or my not be needed)

Obviously the serpentine system looks better, but can you do it with the brackets you have? Or brackets that are reasonably available?

[85lebaront2]

Obviously the serpentine system looks better, but can you do it with the brackets you have? Or brackets that are reasonably available?

Some I have, some I will make, I have 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thick aluminum plate and lots of steel angle and some other bits.

[85lebaront2]

Some I have, some I will make, I have 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thick aluminum plate and lots of steel angle and some other bits.

Ok, I know it's been a while since I updated this thread. Part was due to winter temperatures and part was due to a back issue. I will probably stick with the early water pump as the flat pulley on the 1989 up is not wide enough for a 6 rib belt. I have a modified Ford air pump pulley, probably from the 1990 parts truck. I took it and drilled it for the Chrysler water pump bolt pattern and found I needed about 1/8" more space to line up with the VW balancer. I cut the center out of an extra Chrysler 4 rib pulley for the pre-1989 pump.

After fitting it in place and verifying alagnment, it was on to the PS pump. I have a spare 1995 Lincoln Continental pump, but it bolts to the side on the block and timing cover to the right of the crank, putting it on the Chrysler to the left of the crank would invert the fittings, inlet down and outlet up. I had been back to Pete's and picked up a Stratus 2.4L NA engine for motor support and accesory mounts. It had the PS pump to the left of the crank close to where the 2.2/2.5L engines do. Pump is a Toyoda brand, aluminum body and uses a remote reservoir in front of the engine. The Toyoda pump had a 4 rib drive belt, the Lincoln pump had a nice 6 rib serpentine belt. Hole in the Lincoln pulley was too small, but a couple of reamers solved that issue. It pressed on nicely.

Here are some pictures of the Stratus mount and the 1/4" aluminum mount thus far:

Here is looking down through the mount bracket attachment:

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I know it's been a while since I updated this thread. Part was due to winter temperatures and part was due to a back issue. I will probably stick with the early water pump as the flat pulley on the 1989 up is not wide enough for a 6 rib belt. I have a modified Ford air pump pulley, probably from the 1990 parts truck. I took it and drilled it for the Chrysler water pump bolt pattern and found I needed about 1/8" more space to line up with the VW balancer. I cut the center out of an extra Chrysler 4 rib pulley for the pre-1989 pump.

After fitting it in place and verifying alagnment, it was on to the PS pump. I have a spare 1995 Lincoln Continental pump, but it bolts to the side on the block and timing cover to the right of the crank, putting it on the Chrysler to the left of the crank would invert the fittings, inlet down and outlet up. I had been back to Pete's and picked up a Stratus 2.4L NA engine for motor support and accesory mounts. It had the PS pump to the left of the crank close to where the 2.2/2.5L engines do. Pump is a Toyoda brand, aluminum body and uses a remote reservoir in front of the engine. The Toyoda pump had a 4 rib drive belt, the Lincoln pump had a nice 6 rib serpentine belt. Hole in the Lincoln pulley was too small, but a couple of reamers solved that issue. It pressed on nicely.

Here are some pictures of the Stratus mount and the 1/4" aluminum mount thus far:

Here is looking down through the mount bracket attachment:

Over half a year does qualify as "a while".

But I'm glad you are now able to work on it.

And it is looking good! How thick is that aluminum?