Duraspark II-ish Starting Issue?

[Jason2215]

Interesting. I would expect higher than 9.6v on the R/Bl but I can check mine later. As you are seeing/feeling/hearing, that is enough to pull in the relay though.

What more concerns me is voltage on 4 with the key off. Since the next step is to run a new 8/10awg wire from 4 to the starter solenoid (the stud that original had the red wire that is now on 2), I don't want you doing that if there is any chance the starter could engage with the key off.

It's not uncommon for off the shelf fmr's to be bad or go bad quickly. You could disconnect 1 and check continuity between 1 and 4 but I think I'd just go pick up a new one.

I don't see that the fmr was replaced in the first post. Do you know the history of it? Possibly it going bad was the reason everything was moved to the starter solenoid?

I do not know the history. And I could definitely pick up a spare just to see what happens if that would be a good next step. I'll see if I can find one locally real quick.

What would happen if say, I disconnected the coil plug so the engine won't start, then connect the starter see if there is any voltage there with the key off?

I'd be interested to know if yours reads similar.

[kramttocs]

I do not know the history. And I could definitely pick up a spare just to see what happens if that would be a good next step. I'll see if I can find one locally real quick.

What would happen if say, I disconnected the coil plug so the engine won't start, then connect the starter see if there is any voltage there with the key off?

I'd be interested to know if yours reads similar.

I know my 4 shows 0v just unsure of 2's voltage drop.

With it being an Auto in Park, it would just try to crank even with the coil plugged in (key off) but it's just like jumping the starter on a tractor with a screwdriver - do it all the time but wouldn't feel good telling anyone else to

Even if it doesn't cause the starter to engage, it's still a drain that you won't want.

[Jason2215]

I know my 4 shows 0v just unsure of 2's voltage drop.

With it being an Auto in Park, it would just try to crank even with the coil plugged in (key off) but it's just like jumping the starter on a tractor with a screwdriver - do it all the time but wouldn't feel good telling anyone else to

Even if it doesn't cause the starter to engage, it's still a drain that you won't want.

Ok new fmr installed. Same crazy readings on 4 using DCV setting on meter with no key turn. Still 9.6 on terminal 2 with the key in start. It slowly drops while the key is held in start. Don’t know if that’s normal.

I don’t know if it matters, but when I switch the meter to DC mA, it reads .17 on terminal 1 and the battery, and 0 on the other terminals.

[kramttocs]

Ok new fmr installed. Same crazy readings on 4 using DCV setting on meter with no key turn. Still 9.6 on terminal 2 with the key in start. It slowly drops while the key is held in start. Don’t know if that’s normal.

I don’t know if it matters, but when I switch the meter to DC mA, it reads .17 on terminal 1 and the battery, and 0 on the other terminals.

My R/BL wire is 11.79 when in Start with a resting battery voltage of 12.24

I am just not sure on the 4 having voltage. Jim, Bill, Gary? Have you guys seen that before?

 

[Gary Lewis]

My R/BL wire is 11.79 when in Start with a resting battery voltage of 12.24

I am just not sure on the 4 having voltage. Jim, Bill, Gary? Have you guys seen that before?

If I'm understanding correctly, Terminal 4 has voltage when the key is off? That should not be the case. That terminal should only have voltage on it when the ignition switch is in Start. So assuming there is no other wire connected to Terminal 4 itself, something is either connected to the starter or the starter itself is bad, bleeding power over from the power cable from Terminal 1.

As for the voltage on Terminal 2, it will always be a bit less than battery voltage due to the small wire size going to the ignition switch and back. There are fuse links and lots of connections, each of which has resistance and, therefore, drops the voltage.

[kramttocs]

If I'm understanding correctly, Terminal 4 has voltage when the key is off? That should not be the case. That terminal should only have voltage on it when the ignition switch is in Start. So assuming there is no other wire connected to Terminal 4 itself, something is either connected to the starter or the starter itself is bad, bleeding power over from the power cable from Terminal 1.

As for the voltage on Terminal 2, it will always be a bit less than battery voltage due to the small wire size going to the ignition switch and back. There are fuse links and lots of connections, each of which has resistance and, therefore, drops the voltage.

Hey Gary. Yeah, the voltage drop he is seeing seems pretty proportional based on his resting voltage for the R/LB wire. So #2 checks out. #1 is a given so that just leave #4.

Since the relay was an unknown his test right now is with 1 having battery power and 2 having the R/LB wire. Nothing else is hooked up to the fender mounted relay.

I can't explain #4 having voltage with the original relay, let alone the new one he picked up. Until we get that addressed, I am not confident suggesting the next step of connecting a wire from #4 to the solenoid on the starter.

Jason - think you could upload a video of the multimeter when checking voltage on #4 against the negative battery terminal with the key off?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hey Gary. Yeah, the voltage drop he is seeing seems pretty proportional based on his resting voltage for the R/LB wire. So #2 checks out. #1 is a given so that just leave #4.

Since the relay was an unknown his test right now is with 1 having battery power and 2 having the R/LB wire. Nothing else is hooked up to the fender mounted relay.

I can't explain #4 having voltage with the original relay, let alone the new one he picked up. Until we get that addressed, I am not confident suggesting the next step of connecting a wire from #4 to the solenoid on the starter.

Jason - think you could upload a video of the multimeter when checking voltage on #4 against the negative battery terminal with the key off?

I guess I should have asked if there is anything at all hooked to 4? If not, that says the relay is bad. Both of them????????????

[Jason2215]

I guess I should have asked if there is anything at all hooked to 4? If not, that says the relay is bad. Both of them????????????

Could it be that I have the multimeter set incorrectly? I will try to upload a video tomorrow if the meter on #4. It’s extremely sporadic. Nothing else hooked to it. Makes me think it’s the meter and not the relay (I even got the Duralast w the good reviews! )

To confirm, you want me to video the red multimeter cable on 4, and black on the neg battery terminal?

Thx again guys. I clearly couldn’t have worked through this on my own.

[kramttocs]

To confirm, you want me to video the red multimeter cable on 4, and black on the neg battery terminal?

Bingo. Set the multimeter to 20 on DC if that is an option.

Looking forward to finding out what's going on with this.

If you want to get a jump on the next step - crawl under by the starter with your multimeter and touch the red probe to the terminal with 3 wires and the black to the thick flange of the starter the bolts goes through to mount it. Should see the full battery voltage. Then go ahead and run a 8/10awg wire from the stud the red wire used to be on and bring it up to the fmr. Don't hook it to anything yet though. Just get it there and ready.

[Gary Lewis]

To confirm, you want me to video the red multimeter cable on 4, and black on the neg battery terminal?

Bingo. Set the multimeter to 20 on DC if that is an option.

Looking forward to finding out what's going on with this.

If you want to get a jump on the next step - crawl under by the starter with your multimeter and touch the red probe to the terminal with 3 wires and the black to the thick flange of the starter the bolts goes through to mount it. Should see the full battery voltage. Then go ahead and run a 8/10awg wire from the stud the red wire used to be on and bring it up to the fmr. Don't hook it to anything yet though. Just get it there and ready.

Yes, I think it is the meter. In the position you have it, which may be the only choice, it says "10 MegOhm Input". That is a very sensitive input resistance, and it is auto-ranging. So it will probably turn down the input range until it gets a reading, and that's what you are seeing.

The input range to the left in the green appears to be for batteries, but I can't read it. If so, you might get by for testing w/o the engine running on the 12v setting over there, and it may not be nearly as sensitive.