Jason2215 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 To confirm, you want me to video the red multimeter cable on 4, and black on the neg battery terminal? Bingo. Set the multimeter to 20 on DC if that is an option. Looking forward to finding out what's going on with this. If you want to get a jump on the next step - crawl under by the starter with your multimeter and touch the red probe to the terminal with 3 wires and the black to the thick flange of the starter the bolts goes through to mount it. Should see the full battery voltage. Then go ahead and run a 8/10awg wire from the stud the red wire used to be on and bring it up to the fmr. Don't hook it to anything yet though. Just get it there and ready. Here’s the videos of what I see on the meter when testing post 4. The first is using the DCV option and second is the 12v battery load test option. Same result. You can see it go haywire when I touch the post. I DO see full battery voltage at the starter post with the three wires, but remember I’m linked directly from the battery right now, not through post 1 on the fmr Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Here’s the videos of what I see on the meter when testing post 4. The first is using the DCV option and second is the 12v battery load test option. Same result. You can see it go haywire when I touch the post. I DO see full battery voltage at the starter post with the three wires, but remember I’m linked directly from the battery right now, not through post 1 on the fmr Thanks! Basically what I think that is saying is that terminal 4 has neither power nor ground on it and is floating. So the meter is searching for ANY voltage on it and keeps turning down the scale until it finds something. Do you have a test light? Or a 12v bulb you can wire from terminal 4 to ground? If it doesn't come on, and I'm sure it won't, then check terminal 4 with your meter. It should show 0 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2215 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Basically what I think that is saying is that terminal 4 has neither power nor ground on it and is floating. So the meter is searching for ANY voltage on it and keeps turning down the scale until it finds something. Do you have a test light? Or a 12v bulb you can wire from terminal 4 to ground? If it doesn't come on, and I'm sure it won't, then check terminal 4 with your meter. It should show 0 volts. Just picked up a separate meter w the 20 option to make things easier. We’re at 0 bolts on terminal 4. Full battery voltage at starter. Awaiting further instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Basically what I think that is saying is that terminal 4 has neither power nor ground on it and is floating. So the meter is searching for ANY voltage on it and keeps turning down the scale until it finds something. Do you have a test light? Or a 12v bulb you can wire from terminal 4 to ground? If it doesn't come on, and I'm sure it won't, then check terminal 4 with your meter. It should show 0 volts. DC mA is milli amps, or 1 millionth of an amp if I remember correctly. Just a thought. Keep going Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2215 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 DC mA is milli amps, or 1 millionth of an amp if I remember correctly. Just a thought. Keep going Scott Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 If you want to get a jump on the next step - crawl under by the starter with your multimeter and touch the red probe to the terminal with 3 wires and the black to the thick flange of the starter the bolts goes through to mount it. Should see the full battery voltage. Then go ahead and run a 8/10awg wire from the stud the red wire used to be on and bring it up to the fmr. Don't hook it to anything yet though. Just get it there and ready. Your new meter has confirmed my suspicions - the other meter is SENSITIVE! So I think you are ready for Scott's "next step". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Thx! Great! I've never messed with an auto-ranging setting so that's good to know. Thanks Gary and Steve. I DO see full battery voltage at the starter post with the three wires, but remember I’m linked directly from the battery right now, not through post 1 on the fmr Thanks! Perfect. You are correct - that three wire post will have constant voltage on it at all times and this was just to ensure the starter was grounded through the block. The next step is to run a 8/10awg wire from the stud on the starter solenoid that the red wire used to be on and bring it up to #4 on the fmr. At this point you are ready to start it. The two fuse links on the three wire post on the starter solenoid could be moved up to #1 on the fmr if you want it closer to original and I would for visibility and easier future troubleshooting but it doesn't have to be done right now. When doing so increase the awg of the short wire between the POS battery terminal and #1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2215 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Great! I've never messed with an auto-ranging setting so that's good to know. Thanks Gary and Steve. I DO see full battery voltage at the starter post with the three wires, but remember I’m linked directly from the battery right now, not through post 1 on the fmr Thanks! Perfect. You are correct - that three wire post will have constant voltage on it at all times and this was just to ensure the starter was grounded through the block. The next step is to run a 8/10awg wire from the stud on the starter solenoid that the red wire used to be on and bring it up to #4 on the fmr. At this point you are ready to start it. The two fuse links on the three wire post on the starter solenoid could be moved up to #1 on the fmr if you want it closer to original and I would for visibility and easier future troubleshooting but it doesn't have to be done right now. When doing so increase the awg of the short wire between the POS battery terminal and #1. Thanks Scott. Should I alter the routing of the pos batt cable to terminal 1, then to starter or leave the pos battery cable directly from batt to starter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2215 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Great! I've never messed with an auto-ranging setting so that's good to know. Thanks Gary and Steve. I DO see full battery voltage at the starter post with the three wires, but remember I’m linked directly from the battery right now, not through post 1 on the fmr Thanks! Perfect. You are correct - that three wire post will have constant voltage on it at all times and this was just to ensure the starter was grounded through the block. The next step is to run a 8/10awg wire from the stud on the starter solenoid that the red wire used to be on and bring it up to #4 on the fmr. At this point you are ready to start it. The two fuse links on the three wire post on the starter solenoid could be moved up to #1 on the fmr if you want it closer to original and I would for visibility and easier future troubleshooting but it doesn't have to be done right now. When doing so increase the awg of the short wire between the POS battery terminal and #1. ITS ALLIIIIIIIIVVVEEEEE!!!!! You are a scholar and a gentleman! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 ITS ALLIIIIIIIIVVVEEEEE!!!!! You are a scholar and a gentleman! Congrat's!!!!!! That is SUCH a GOOD feeling!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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