Machspeed Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Perhaps my '87 is far different? I only had to unpin one wire in the connector. I used the old wire to pull the new one through. I can tell already, this is going to be one of those deals where fixing this leads to messing with other things. You know, while you're there, might as well blah, blah, blah..... A month or so ago, I had to fix an intake leak that lead to water pump, timing chain/gear, power steering pump, fuel pump, thermostat, plug/plug wires, hoses, belts replacement. Not to mention carb and distributor rebuild......arghhh! Makes me tired thinking about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Perhaps my '87 is far different? I only had to unpin one wire in the connector. I used the old wire to pull the new one through. I reinstalled mine after doing a restore on the column so full disclosure that it was on the table and no contortions required but I it really shouldn't be bad. I wouldn't bother splicing the wires. No doubt there is a guide somewhere but just going over it mentally, here is how I'd go about it: 1. Unhook battery 2. Remove the connector at the base of the column from that little standoff piece that holds it to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the key/tumbler near the wheel at the top of the column) 3. Disconnect the connector from the truck harness 4. Cut the wires (assuming no need to save them) 5. Tape the ends together with a string on them 6. Remove steering wheel, remove screws for the switch and pull the switch out and thus the wiring/string also 7. Remove the string but don't let it fall back down 8. On the new switch, make notes/photos of the wiring order in the connector. If the colors match the old, now amputated connector you can just use it for reference 9. Remove the red retainer in the connector and pull all the wires/terminals out by prying the locking tab away with a small flat screwdriver 10. Tape the wires all together along with the string 11. Feed/Pull the wires along the same path as the string until the switch is seated 12. Reinstall the screws for the switch 13. Reinstall the connector at the bottom according to your notes/photos 14. Connect the connector to the truck harness and remount on the standoff 15. Finish up installing the steering wheel (loosely until confirmed working), reconnect battery, test Anyone feel free to correct something I may have left out/overlooked/misremembered. I do like Steve's disassembly approach better though- would save a lot of steps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 I can tell already, this is going to be one of those deals where fixing this leads to messing with other things. You know, while you're there, might as well blah, blah, blah..... A month or so ago, I had to fix an intake leak that lead to water pump, timing chain/gear, power steering pump, fuel pump, thermostat, plug/plug wires, hoses, belts replacement. Not to mention carb and distributor rebuild......arghhh! Makes me tired thinking about it. Looking at the replacement part for my tilt wheel at RockAuto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121678,electrical-switch+&+relay,turn+signal+switch,4832 They show a unit from She-Marr and it states "One spring pin design (replaces two pin design)". It is cheaper, probably Chinese. But, what's this one spring thing all about? Comparatively, I was looking at a more expensive option from SMP but no mention of this pin design thing. I just want a quality product that will last and keep me out of that steering column for awhile. What would you guys go with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Looking at the replacement part for my tilt wheel at RockAuto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121678,electrical-switch+&+relay,turn+signal+switch,4832 They show a unit from She-Marr and it states "One spring pin design (replaces two pin design)". It is cheaper, probably Chinese. But, what's this one spring thing all about? Comparatively, I was looking at a more expensive option from SMP but no mention of this pin design thing. I just want a quality product that will last and keep me out of that steering column for awhile. What would you guys go with? I am not sure on the spring pin difference but when it comes to electrical pieces, if I see the 'Standard' brand I usually go with it. No experience with She-Marr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Looking at the replacement part for my tilt wheel at RockAuto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121678,electrical-switch+&+relay,turn+signal+switch,4832 They show a unit from She-Marr and it states "One spring pin design (replaces two pin design)". It is cheaper, probably Chinese. But, what's this one spring thing all about? Comparatively, I was looking at a more expensive option from SMP but no mention of this pin design thing. I just want a quality product that will last and keep me out of that steering column for awhile. What would you guys go with? I wouldn't try to save under $10 (25%) to have something that looks that cheesy. Because, like you said, I wouldn't want to do it again. Same thing with my transfer case. I bought the SKF bearing and seal kit. (and I replaced the expensive chain) because I don't have time to be broken down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 I reinstalled mine after doing a restore on the column so full disclosure that it was on the table and no contortions required but I it really shouldn't be bad. I wouldn't bother splicing the wires. No doubt there is a guide somewhere but just going over it mentally, here is how I'd go about it: 1. Unhook battery 2. Remove the connector at the base of the column from that little standoff piece that holds it to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the key/tumbler near the wheel at the top of the column) 3. Disconnect the connector from the truck harness 4. Cut the wires (assuming no need to save them) 5. Tape the ends together with a string on them 6. Remove steering wheel, remove screws for the switch and pull the switch out and thus the wiring/string also 7. Remove the string but don't let it fall back down 8. On the new switch, make notes/photos of the wiring order in the connector. If the colors match the old, now amputated connector you can just use it for reference 9. Remove the red retainer in the connector and pull all the wires/terminals out by prying the locking tab away with a small flat screwdriver 10. Tape the wires all together along with the string 11. Feed/Pull the wires along the same path as the string until the switch is seated 12. Reinstall the screws for the switch 13. Reinstall the connector at the bottom according to your notes/photos 14. Connect the connector to the truck harness and remount on the standoff 15. Finish up installing the steering wheel (loosely until confirmed working), reconnect battery, test Anyone feel free to correct something I may have left out/overlooked/misremembered. I do like Steve's disassembly approach better though- would save a lot of steps I guess the only place where I differed is that I cut the wires at the switch and used one of them to fish the harness down. (Disclosure) I do not have tilt, so IDK how that differs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 I am not sure on the spring pin difference but when it comes to electrical pieces, if I see the 'Standard' brand I usually go with it. No experience with She-Marr. Yeah, gonna spend a little more and get the better unit. Was really just curious about the pin design thing. Great resource for the column that I'm putting here, as I suck at finding things here....LOL! This was your disassembly, Scott. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td41757 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Yeah, gonna spend a little more and get the better unit. Was really just curious about the pin design thing. Great resource for the column that I'm putting here, as I suck at finding things here....LOL! This was your disassembly, Scott. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td41757 Curious on that as well. Are you going real deep in the column or just replacing the switch? If the former, Gary has the manual here and there is a tab with my assembly instructions if helpful. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 I reinstalled mine after doing a restore on the column so full disclosure that it was on the table and no contortions required but I it really shouldn't be bad. I wouldn't bother splicing the wires. No doubt there is a guide somewhere but just going over it mentally, here is how I'd go about it: 1. Unhook battery 2. Remove the connector at the base of the column from that little standoff piece that holds it to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the key/tumbler near the wheel at the top of the column) 3. Disconnect the connector from the truck harness 4. Cut the wires (assuming no need to save them) 5. Tape the ends together with a string on them 6. Remove steering wheel, remove screws for the switch and pull the switch out and thus the wiring/string also 7. Remove the string but don't let it fall back down 8. On the new switch, make notes/photos of the wiring order in the connector. If the colors match the old, now amputated connector you can just use it for reference 9. Remove the red retainer in the connector and pull all the wires/terminals out by prying the locking tab away with a small flat screwdriver 10. Tape the wires all together along with the string 11. Feed/Pull the wires along the same path as the string until the switch is seated 12. Reinstall the screws for the switch 13. Reinstall the connector at the bottom according to your notes/photos 14. Connect the connector to the truck harness and remount on the standoff 15. Finish up installing the steering wheel (loosely until confirmed working), reconnect battery, test Anyone feel free to correct something I may have left out/overlooked/misremembered. I do like Steve's disassembly approach better though- would save a lot of steps Scott, like you, I find it way easer to do it on a bench. It makes it easer on my worn out shoulders, neck, back. On the bench or in a vice, it takes all of the fight and contortions out of it. It does add the time of removing the colum but in the long run, the extra time is worth it, that and not looking like Stephen Hawikns for two or three days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Scott, like you, I find it way easer to do it on a bench. It makes it easer on my worn out shoulders, neck, back. On the bench or in a vice, it takes all of the fight and contortions out of it. It does add the time of removing the colum but in the long run, the extra time is worth it, that and not looking like Stephen Hawikns for two or three days. I have a big preference for OEM parts. They're out there, I just need to know if you have a tilt or fixed column. If it's a fixed column, you may have to go aftermarket... sorry 'bout that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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