myrl883 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 :nabble_smiley_good:Those numbers are MUCH better, and the extra ZDDP can't hurt either. Also, note that he said that he has oil leaks at the front and rear crank seals. That's a classic sign of worn bearings, right along with low oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 I'm not one to take dramatic Gary steps. How many miles do you have on the rebuild since it was installed in 2003? If the engine runs strong except the oil pressure I'd be very tempted to throw a high volume oil pump in it and keep going. You have no idea how sloppy some race engines are set up. And in their case increased circulation helps take excessive heat away. If you really feel you need to take it to a machine shop for??? (Inspection?) If the crank isn't scored or smeared, why bother? Look at the bores, use a fingernail to feel for a ridge at the top of the cylinders. Fill the ports with kerosene and look for valve leaks. Look on the back of one of the crank bearings for an etched undersize. Before you pull the caps try to shift the crank forward and back against the thrust bearings. But, I guess most importantly is to look at the RMS surface on the crank for a groove worn in it. Speedisleeve's are definitely available for the front, but I don't know about the back of your 302. Anyway, don't make rash decisions until you have proof. ^^^^This! The crank shifting forward and back can act as a pump and push oil out both ends. Before you pull the caps try to shift the crank forward and back against the thrust bearings. But, I guess most importantly is to look at the RMS surface on the crank for a groove worn in it. Speedisleeve's are definitely available for the front, but I don't know about the back of your 302. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BullnoseLuvr Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 ^^^^This! The crank shifting forward and back can act as a pump and push oil out both ends. Before you pull the caps try to shift the crank forward and back against the thrust bearings. But, I guess most importantly is to look at the RMS surface on the crank for a groove worn in it. Speedisleeve's are definitely available for the front, but I don't know about the back of your 302. When hot my truck idles at flat zip zero on the factory gauge and just touches the bottom of the R at speed. Cold it looks normal. It’s been this way for years and it just keeps going. I’ve been meaning to ask if the Windsor is forgiving of extremely low pressure and how long it’ll go like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 When hot my truck idles at flat zip zero on the factory gauge and just touches the bottom of the R at speed. Cold it looks normal. It’s been this way for years and it just keeps going. I’ve been meaning to ask if the Windsor is forgiving of extremely low pressure and how long it’ll go like this. With a reliable mechanical gauge, "old school" says, in a hard pull, if pressure drops, mains are bad. Increased viscosity, STP,etc should increase pressure, indicating wear on all bearings. Just my pennysworth...Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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