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Low oil pressure


jdavidsmi

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I meant to add, I have good compression on all cylinders and it’s not burning oil, just throwing it out the rear seal, and some where up front, I see oil, but can’t find the source.

Just a thought, My 5.0 Bronco had great compression, 155 to 160 psi and showed in the normal range on the gauge for oil pressure. Right up until it spun a main bearing. That ruined the block and I had to buy a ford reman block. Then I rebuilt it the way I wanted, mostly stock but with 10:1 flat top pistons.

I guess what i am saying is to shut it down until it can be rebuilt. That way you still have a usable engine block.

I dont know what you have for millage on that engine, mine had just a little over 200000 on it.

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Just a thought, My 5.0 Bronco had great compression, 155 to 160 psi and showed in the normal range on the gauge for oil pressure. Right up until it spun a main bearing. That ruined the block and I had to buy a ford reman block. Then I rebuilt it the way I wanted, mostly stock but with 10:1 flat top pistons.

I guess what i am saying is to shut it down until it can be rebuilt. That way you still have a usable engine block.

I dont know what you have for millage on that engine, mine had just a little over 200000 on it.

Really?

You can't deck caps and line bore a crank journal?

Or is it just more work than going back to a stock bore?

I would do what I had to to keep the pressure good.

If it throws a rod or something I'm only out the cost of an oil change, and I gained -however many- more months.... or years.

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Really?

You can't deck caps and line bore a crank journal?

Or is it just more work than going back to a stock bore?

I would do what I had to to keep the pressure good.

If it throws a rod or something I'm only out the cost of an oil change, and I gained -however many- more months.... or years.

I know I intend to toss my $55 eBay Milodan HV oil pump in when I finally get a chance to pull this lump and replace the RMS, pan gasket, ring gear and clutch.

I don't like low pressure at -really- hot idle.

But I know the inside of my engine is clean, so it's not a drainback issue.

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I know I intend to toss my $55 eBay Milodan HV oil pump in when I finally get a chance to pull this lump and replace the RMS, pan gasket, ring gear and clutch.

I don't like low pressure at -really- hot idle.

But I know the inside of my engine is clean, so it's not a drainback issue.

Jim, when mine spun the main bearing, it egg shaped the bore and cracked the main bolster in the block at the main cap bolt hole. Yep, put a fork in it cause it's done. My wife had drove it to work and said that it made a hard clunk when she got on the freeway. She said she checked the gauges and all was good and drove it 40 miles at 65 mph. When I got home she told me that it sounded good until she got home then it was knocking hard. I couldent get it to to turn over with a 3 foot braker bar and a 2 foot cheater pipe. I pulled it out and pulled the pan and found the rest.

Even if he shuts it down and puts a crank kit in and some new cam bearings in it, he would still be money ahead.

Just a thought

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Jim, when mine spun the main bearing, it egg shaped the bore and cracked the main bolster in the block at the main cap bolt hole. Yep, put a fork in it cause it's done. My wife had drove it to work and said that it made a hard clunk when she got on the freeway. She said she checked the gauges and all was good and drove it 40 miles at 65 mph. When I got home she told me that it sounded good until she got home then it was knocking hard. I couldent get it to to turn over with a 3 foot braker bar and a 2 foot cheater pipe. I pulled it out and pulled the pan and found the rest.

Even if he shuts it down and puts a crank kit in and some new cam bearings in it, he would still be money ahead.

Just a thought

Well I imagine dragging that bearing around for well over half an hour at highway speeds is going to kill the bearing pocket.

If you do that, you deserve to buy a block.

Well over year now I should have 'done something' and yet I still show no mercy to this engine.

I'm not going to advise anyone to do that.

 

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Well I imagine dragging that bearing around for well over half an hour at highway speeds is going to kill the bearing pocket.

If you do that, you deserve to buy a block.

Well over year now I should have 'done something' and yet I still show no mercy to this engine.

I'm not going to advise anyone to do that.

Yep, and according to her, it was only making a "little" noise. So she mashed the foot feed and turned up the jukebox and came home. By the time it was all said and done, the only thing I dident have to replace was the tin, the heads and the manifolds.

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Yep, and according to her, it was only making a "little" noise. So she mashed the foot feed and turned up the jukebox and came home. By the time it was all said and done, the only thing I dident have to replace was the tin, the heads and the manifolds.

I've got nothing more to say.

I'm going to go out and pull some stumps, then thrash my truck some more. (after I put the spare back)

 

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I've got nothing more to say.

I'm going to go out and pull some stumps, then thrash my truck some more. (after I put the spare back)

Good luck with the stumps Jim. I am going to go and drill out some rear engine mount bolts from a C15 Cat in a Peterbuilt. Not sure who is going to have a harder day.:nabble_smiley_whistling:

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Good luck with the stumps Jim. I am going to go and drill out some rear engine mount bolts from a C15 Cat in a Peterbuilt. Not sure who is going to have a harder day.:nabble_smiley_whistling:

Good morning all, picked up a bottle of STP oil treatment yesterday, this morning I drove to the transfer station. Cold Starting up oil pressure was 60 psi, 3 mile round trip, back home motor at idle, temperature at 190 oil pressure at 22 psi. Much better than the 5 or so I had before the STP. Higher RPM higher oil pressure.

I spoke with the owner of the local NAPA store, there is a machine shop local, I will be checking with them after the holiday weekend.

I looked on line and the different parts houses all list a rebuilt 302 motor around the same price Summit Racing shows a standard 3 year warranty or a 5 year no fault for a couple hundred more. Lots of more research.

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Good morning all, picked up a bottle of STP oil treatment yesterday, this morning I drove to the transfer station. Cold Starting up oil pressure was 60 psi, 3 mile round trip, back home motor at idle, temperature at 190 oil pressure at 22 psi. Much better than the 5 or so I had before the STP. Higher RPM higher oil pressure.

I spoke with the owner of the local NAPA store, there is a machine shop local, I will be checking with them after the holiday weekend.

I looked on line and the different parts houses all list a rebuilt 302 motor around the same price Summit Racing shows a standard 3 year warranty or a 5 year no fault for a couple hundred more. Lots of more research.

:nabble_smiley_good:Those numbers are MUCH better, and the extra ZDDP can't hurt either.

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