Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

[JimJam300]

Probably doesn't help you much but just in case... I was researching T-18 rebuilds, different thing but a lot of T-19 posts and videos come up when you do. I seem to recall this being a common problem-post and the advice being a combo of "try ratcheting snap ring pliers to pinch it then use a 90 degree hook tool to pry it out" and "just drill it every 3" and get a new one you'll destroy the teeth anyway". So... maybe?

I figured it out, I was going the wrong way. The reverse gear on the opposite end of the shaft was seized and I thought it couldn't be removed that way. Just needed some extra oomph. Taking all the rest of the components allowed me to slide the gear enough to remove that snap ring. I got it all disassembled, got all my parts staged and diagrams handy. Just need to clean off the old oil and put it back together with new parts.

[StraightSix]

I figured it out, I was going the wrong way. The reverse gear on the opposite end of the shaft was seized and I thought it couldn't be removed that way. Just needed some extra oomph. Taking all the rest of the components allowed me to slide the gear enough to remove that snap ring. I got it all disassembled, got all my parts staged and diagrams handy. Just need to clean off the old oil and put it back together with new parts.

Nifty. The 435 has a similar snap ring on the output, and its also a bit of a pain. I like use cardboard to make a new clean layer on my work bench for stuff like this btw.

[Gary Lewis]

I figured it out, I was going the wrong way. The reverse gear on the opposite end of the shaft was seized and I thought it couldn't be removed that way. Just needed some extra oomph. Taking all the rest of the components allowed me to slide the gear enough to remove that snap ring. I got it all disassembled, got all my parts staged and diagrams handy. Just need to clean off the old oil and put it back together with new parts.

Excellent! Glad you got it apart.

[JimJam300]

Excellent! Glad you got it apart.

A couple weeks ago my landlord gave me a notice to vacate within 60 days since she wants to move into the house. Luckily I found a place with a garage at the very inexpensive [for California] rate of $2000/month. So I'm packing up everything in preparation for the move. But the move-in date is early June so I will be "homeless" for a month which means I'm only going to be able to work on small stuff in the shop at work until then.

When I had time last week I put together the transmission so it doesn't get messed up in the move.

All small parts on the bottom end have been replaced except the reverse idler needle bearings. I cleaned and re-used them. New reverse gear, new first gear, new synchro rings, new bearings, new bolts. The 1-2 shift fork is wearing out but it's not too bad yet. The used input shaft I purchased is a little bit damaged which I'm kind of disappointed about, but I don't think it will be a problem. I am still waiting on some top-end parts like the pin that holds the shifter straight, reverse light switch, and new drain/fill plugs. I was able to hold the shifter in place with a screwdriver and row through the gears. The shifting feels a lot more solid than it did before!

The last things I need to do are press the input/output bearings on completely, put the last lock ring on the input shaft, and paint it.

As far as lock ring pliers go, I initially purchased a pair of Performance Tool pliers. I would not recommend them, the knurling on the gripping surface is too slippery. I then purchased a set of 8in and 10in pliers from Speedwox on Amazon. They have worked decently enough with much better grippy knurling than the Performance Tool, but the knurling is almost worn off from this rebuild. They will also crush your fingers if you hold them wrong while expanding lock rings.

So far this has been an educational experience to say the least, and I wouldn't mind doing it again. It was probably much better that I went into it well-prepared with the instructions on this site and needing *almost* no additional supplies. And kudos to Gary for compiling the documentation, I would've been completely lost without it, as I could not find any forum post or video with a detailed assembly of a T19.

[taskswap]

A couple weeks ago my landlord gave me a notice to vacate within 60 days since she wants to move into the house. Luckily I found a place with a garage at the very inexpensive [for California] rate of $2000/month. So I'm packing up everything in preparation for the move. But the move-in date is early June so I will be "homeless" for a month which means I'm only going to be able to work on small stuff in the shop at work until then.

When I had time last week I put together the transmission so it doesn't get messed up in the move.

All small parts on the bottom end have been replaced except the reverse idler needle bearings. I cleaned and re-used them. New reverse gear, new first gear, new synchro rings, new bearings, new bolts. The 1-2 shift fork is wearing out but it's not too bad yet. The used input shaft I purchased is a little bit damaged which I'm kind of disappointed about, but I don't think it will be a problem. I am still waiting on some top-end parts like the pin that holds the shifter straight, reverse light switch, and new drain/fill plugs. I was able to hold the shifter in place with a screwdriver and row through the gears. The shifting feels a lot more solid than it did before!

The last things I need to do are press the input/output bearings on completely, put the last lock ring on the input shaft, and paint it.

As far as lock ring pliers go, I initially purchased a pair of Performance Tool pliers. I would not recommend them, the knurling on the gripping surface is too slippery. I then purchased a set of 8in and 10in pliers from Speedwox on Amazon. They have worked decently enough with much better grippy knurling than the Performance Tool, but the knurling is almost worn off from this rebuild. They will also crush your fingers if you hold them wrong while expanding lock rings.

So far this has been an educational experience to say the least, and I wouldn't mind doing it again. It was probably much better that I went into it well-prepared with the instructions on this site and needing *almost* no additional supplies. And kudos to Gary for compiling the documentation, I would've been completely lost without it, as I could not find any forum post or video with a detailed assembly of a T19.

Loving the quality of your transmission rebuild! That's in the cards for me soon, I think. My T-18 runs OK but 2nd and 4th both are tricky to get into with nailing the exact RPM, so I figure the synchro's are pretty chowdered up, and despite replacing the shifter-cane alignment pin I have a ton of play in the shifter, so I figure the forks, cane, or some other top-cover components are pretty worn.

Did you get a specific rebuild kit or just mix and match the parts you knew you'd need?

[ArdWrknTrk]

A couple weeks ago my landlord gave me a notice to vacate within 60 days since she wants to move into the house. Luckily I found a place with a garage at the very inexpensive [for California] rate of $2000/month. So I'm packing up everything in preparation for the move. But the move-in date is early June so I will be "homeless" for a month which means I'm only going to be able to work on small stuff in the shop at work until then.

When I had time last week I put together the transmission so it doesn't get messed up in the move.

All small parts on the bottom end have been replaced except the reverse idler needle bearings. I cleaned and re-used them. New reverse gear, new first gear, new synchro rings, new bearings, new bolts. The 1-2 shift fork is wearing out but it's not too bad yet. The used input shaft I purchased is a little bit damaged which I'm kind of disappointed about, but I don't think it will be a problem. I am still waiting on some top-end parts like the pin that holds the shifter straight, reverse light switch, and new drain/fill plugs. I was able to hold the shifter in place with a screwdriver and row through the gears. The shifting feels a lot more solid than it did before!

The last things I need to do are press the input/output bearings on completely, put the last lock ring on the input shaft, and paint it.

As far as lock ring pliers go, I initially purchased a pair of Performance Tool pliers. I would not recommend them, the knurling on the gripping surface is too slippery. I then purchased a set of 8in and 10in pliers from Speedwox on Amazon. They have worked decently enough with much better grippy knurling than the Performance Tool, but the knurling is almost worn off from this rebuild. They will also crush your fingers if you hold them wrong while expanding lock rings.

So far this has been an educational experience to say the least, and I wouldn't mind doing it again. It was probably much better that I went into it well-prepared with the instructions on this site and needing *almost* no additional supplies. And kudos to Gary for compiling the documentation, I would've been completely lost without it, as I could not find any forum post or video with a detailed assembly of a T19.

You've done a great job getting the gearbox back together. I think you're going to really like the T-19.

I can remember struggling with those Performance Tools snap ring pliers when I destroyed my transfer case in the sticks of Vermont a couple of summers back.

Ended up with the Knipex 45 10 pliers from Amazon. They were twice the price I'd paid at O'Reilly's but worked awesome.

Glad you've found a place in today's market. Good luck with your move!

 

[JimJam300]

Did you get a specific rebuild kit or just mix and match the parts you knew you'd need?

I ordered a master rebuild kit. It came with everything besides the gears and top-end parts. It also had every conceivable gasket for each iteration of this transmission.

[JimJam300]

So while I can no longer do "big work" at my place, I've got time to do some research and overtime at work to pay for everything.

This is quickly becoming a restomod, not a restoration. Funny how ideas can change so quickly.

I joined the FordSix forums to figure out what I want to do with the engine while it's out. I've decided on a mid build for power without being ridiculous. I'm sure a V8 swap would be cheaper, but it wouldn't be as cool.

So far I'm at a Holley 2300 2bbl TBI EFI kit, performance intake manifold, distributor, head porting job with oversized valves, roller rockers, and EFI exhaust manifolds.

And to change the subject, If I can find a reasonable price on an Igloo Kool Rest, I actually want to use it as a center console just for retro "cool factor"

[JimJam300]

So while I can no longer do "big work" at my place, I've got time to do some research and overtime at work to pay for everything.

This is quickly becoming a restomod, not a restoration. Funny how ideas can change so quickly.

I joined the FordSix forums to figure out what I want to do with the engine while it's out. I've decided on a mid build for power without being ridiculous. I'm sure a V8 swap would be cheaper, but it wouldn't be as cool.

So far I'm at a Holley 2300 2bbl TBI EFI kit, performance intake manifold, distributor, head porting job with oversized valves, roller rockers, and EFI exhaust manifolds.

And to change the subject, If I can find a reasonable price on an Igloo Kool Rest, I actually want to use it as a center console just for retro "cool factor"

Things have been super hectic, but I finally got around to wrenching today. Moving was horrible but luckily I was able to store things at work including the Bronco. In addition, I was given a decrepit 1996 Coleman pop up trailer to use on a 2.5 week trip thru southern Utah which took all of my time getting roadworthy right after I moved in. Fortunately and unfortunately it was heavily damaged at the end of the trip when a gust of wind blew open the top while driving down the highway. So that's another project that won't be hemorrhaging time and money...

I ran into a family at Zion National Park with a camper-equipped 1985 diesel crew cab 4x4. They purchased it a few years ago and have since brought it on trips throughout North and South America. Apparently they were on their final trip before sending it home to France. Pretty cool rig. I introduced them to the forum so hopefully we will see them soon

(My phone camera was blurry from the damage it received while hiking The Narrows)

As for my Bronco, I'm going to try working on it much faster since moving it was a huge pain considering the drivetrain was out and it had no brakes. I also just don't have the equipment to move something like that so I tried to tow it into the garage with my bike (I probably could've made it if I got a better running start) and just ended up pushing it there with my truck.

I've decided to just go ahead and pull the engine to get it out of the way and better work on things simultaneously.

The only thing left connected to the engine is the clutch linkage which I'm not sure how to correctly remove. If there's any adjustment to potentially screw up I want to avoid doing that.

[grumpin]

Things have been super hectic, but I finally got around to wrenching today. Moving was horrible but luckily I was able to store things at work including the Bronco. In addition, I was given a decrepit 1996 Coleman pop up trailer to use on a 2.5 week trip thru southern Utah which took all of my time getting roadworthy right after I moved in. Fortunately and unfortunately it was heavily damaged at the end of the trip when a gust of wind blew open the top while driving down the highway. So that's another project that won't be hemorrhaging time and money...

I ran into a family at Zion National Park with a camper-equipped 1985 diesel crew cab 4x4. They purchased it a few years ago and have since brought it on trips throughout North and South America. Apparently they were on their final trip before sending it home to France. Pretty cool rig. I introduced them to the forum so hopefully we will see them soon

(My phone camera was blurry from the damage it received while hiking The Narrows)

As for my Bronco, I'm going to try working on it much faster since moving it was a huge pain considering the drivetrain was out and it had no brakes. I also just don't have the equipment to move something like that so I tried to tow it into the garage with my bike (I probably could've made it if I got a better running start) and just ended up pushing it there with my truck.

I've decided to just go ahead and pull the engine to get it out of the way and better work on things simultaneously.

The only thing left connected to the engine is the clutch linkage which I'm not sure how to correctly remove. If there's any adjustment to potentially screw up I want to avoid doing that.

Glad you got through the move. Things can get dicey without brakes!