sgauvry Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Steve, I don't know about scream, 9.3:1 compression, mild cam .030 over for 466.3 ci, but, Darth weighs 6400 lbs empty and has a 3.55 gear with 215/85R-16 tires. 55 mph in OD (E4OD trans) is 1500 rpm. I will not put headers on (ask Gary about headers + 460), but since Darth is a 1986 > 8500 GVWR truck, non-catalyst. Not fast, necessarily, but plenty powerful! My little 302 clearly won't scream either, but it will get the job done to suit my needs. Talk to me about the headers. I know they're suppose to enable exhaust to flow better. I also know they are 20x's more difficult to maneuver around (have to remove the passenger header to get to starter, as an example) and more difficult to attach because of the bolt alignment (quite a few of the bolts are so close to the header tubes that they are difficult to turn. Do you have other reasons you won't use them? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Not fast, necessarily, but plenty powerful! My little 302 clearly won't scream either, but it will get the job done to suit my needs. Talk to me about the headers. I know they're suppose to enable exhaust to flow better. I also know they are 20x's more difficult to maneuver around (have to remove the passenger header to get to starter, as an example) and more difficult to attach because of the bolt alignment (quite a few of the bolts are so close to the header tubes that they are difficult to turn. Do you have other reasons you won't use them? Steve You are asking Bill, but he said talk to me, so I'll chime in. For whatever reason, it appears that no header manufacturer can get their product to truly fit. I have the Cadillac of headers, L&L's, that cost over $600, and they don't fit. In fact, the driver's side header is against the frame on Big Blue. So, when you give the engine some gas and it torques to the right the header comes off the frame - until you let off and it slams back against the frame. I don't know that ALL headers don't fit, but I've read too many stories about them not fitting that I'm starting to believe that's the case. However, other than hitting the frame, mine are fine. L&L's have a very thick 1/2" flange, and that seems to cure the perennial leakage problem that most headers have. And I don't have a problem getting to the starter with them either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 You are asking Bill, but he said talk to me, so I'll chime in. For whatever reason, it appears that no header manufacturer can get their product to truly fit. I have the Cadillac of headers, L&L's, that cost over $600, and they don't fit. In fact, the driver's side header is against the frame on Big Blue. So, when you give the engine some gas and it torques to the right the header comes off the frame - until you let off and it slams back against the frame. I don't know that ALL headers don't fit, but I've read too many stories about them not fitting that I'm starting to believe that's the case. However, other than hitting the frame, mine are fine. L&L's have a very thick 1/2" flange, and that seems to cure the perennial leakage problem that most headers have. And I don't have a problem getting to the starter with them either. Steve, here are some pictures for you, I could not find a male/female two pin set for the 0.110" pins. I did find a 4 pin pair for those that would work nicely and I would simply use all 4 0.110" pins. A little redundancy is always a good idea, ask NASA. Two pin female connector, probably fits ACT, ECT, or similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Steve, here are some pictures for you, I could not find a male/female two pin set for the 0.110" pins. I did find a 4 pin pair for those that would work nicely and I would simply use all 4 0.110" pins. A little redundancy is always a good idea, ask NASA. Two pin female connector, probably fits ACT, ECT, or similar. Four pin female weatherproof connector. Four pin male weatherproof connector, note the red seal ring. Those would work nicely. How much do you want for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Those would work nicely. How much do you want for them? Steve, figure $5 + shipping. I will throw the male/female electrical connectors, 4 each in with them. What you might want to do, since you have the later style negative cable anyway, is put a ground lug on the small pigtail and connect it to the inner side of the fender and when you make the chassis side of the EFI system ground attach it there. That will also help with the abysmal ground system on these trucks. Do you still want the vacuum valve set, or were you going to a newer computer? If you want it I will box everything up together. It may be a couple of days, ole man winter is trying to hang on for a couple more weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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