Water pump, need gasket goop?

[Rusty_S85]

One thing to keep in mind is that the timing case has convolute passages machined into it.

These are to catch leaks and vent them outside before they fill the crankcase.

It's a telltale, so you fix it before it fixes you...

I've seen cases and water pumps glommed with so much RTV it is squeezing out everywhere.

You want to apply a film, with your finger, not a bead that we can see from space.

Right, only time you apply a bead is if you are lightly settling the bolts against the part and letting the RTV cure 24 hours then tighten to spec allowing it to create a rubber gasket.

Ive seen too many lay a bead and torque to spec squeezing it all out. You allow it to lightly squish then harden over night then torque to spec.

I had a timing cover leak on my truck, it was leaking between the block and the timing cover, its why I bought a new timing cover cause when I replaced the timing cover gasket I saw mine was pitted so heavily I was afraid it may pit through into the timing chain region.

[Gary Lewis]

Right, only time you apply a bead is if you are lightly settling the bolts against the part and letting the RTV cure 24 hours then tighten to spec allowing it to create a rubber gasket.

Ive seen too many lay a bead and torque to spec squeezing it all out. You allow it to lightly squish then harden over night then torque to spec.

I had a timing cover leak on my truck, it was leaking between the block and the timing cover, its why I bought a new timing cover cause when I replaced the timing cover gasket I saw mine was pitted so heavily I was afraid it may pit through into the timing chain region.

Rusty - Most people don't seem to understand how to use RTV. Or the difference between a thin coat to help the gasket seal or a huge bead to fill a void.

Nor do they understand how slippery RTV is until it has cured. So they put some on a valve cover gasket and torque it down and the gasket slips out.

Your guidance to let it harden overnight and then torque it down is the key. I use a big bead of RTV on the China walls at the front and back of the block, but tighten the bolts of the intake finger tight and let it cure over night. Then you can torque it and have a good seal. Otherwise it'll squish out, as you said.

But one more thing is key - the parts must be CLEAN. RTV isn't going to stick to oily parts. So if the two parts are oily and the RTV cures it will probably still slip out. Not "squish" but "slip".

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rusty - Most people don't seem to understand how to use RTV. Or the difference between a thin coat to help the gasket seal or a huge bead to fill a void.

Nor do they understand how slippery RTV is until it has cured. So they put some on a valve cover gasket and torque it down and the gasket slips out.

Your guidance to let it harden overnight and then torque it down is the key. I use a big bead of RTV on the China walls at the front and back of the block, but tighten the bolts of the intake finger tight and let it cure over night. Then you can torque it and have a good seal. Otherwise it'll squish out, as you said.

But one more thing is key - the parts must be CLEAN. RTV isn't going to stick to oily parts. So if the two parts are oily and the RTV cures it will probably still slip out. Not "squish" but "slip".

That's what Roloc surface prep discs, brake cleaner and plenty of fresh paper towels are for....

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - Most people don't seem to understand how to use RTV. Or the difference between a thin coat to help the gasket seal or a huge bead to fill a void.

Nor do they understand how slippery RTV is until it has cured. So they put some on a valve cover gasket and torque it down and the gasket slips out.

Your guidance to let it harden overnight and then torque it down is the key. I use a big bead of RTV on the China walls at the front and back of the block, but tighten the bolts of the intake finger tight and let it cure over night. Then you can torque it and have a good seal. Otherwise it'll squish out, as you said.

But one more thing is key - the parts must be CLEAN. RTV isn't going to stick to oily parts. So if the two parts are oily and the RTV cures it will probably still slip out. Not "squish" but "slip".

Correct, thats the same way I do it, my boss at work he puts the clear silicone on the block sits the intake down and torques it down squishing it all out and I am like god you better hope that silicone on the inside never breaks off and falls into the oil pan it will do a number on clogging up the pickup.

Me I prefer using the ultra black since its designed for oil exposure such as valve covers, oil pan, timing covers, and intake manifolds. But at work nope its use the clear silicone that isnt even designed for oil exposure and the stuff turns yellow and falls apart.

Another trick I do for helping the silicone is on the block I use a automatic punch and punch a dimpled pattern into the block. When the intake is set down and bolts finger tight the silicone will go into these dimples and will help the silicone to have something to grab onto over a slick smooth block surface.

Im going to be doing this on my 306 build myself, only difference is I will do like I do on all my personal stuff and use ultra black where it has to do with oil control. Same with the oil pan, when I will be putting a bead of ultra black in the corners before sitting the one piece pan gasket in place and finger tightening the oil pan and letting cure for 24 hours. Im not going to short cut this and try and get it done quick. Ive already had a engine in my truck that used oil, didnt leak it just used it, I wont have a new engine I put in use oil or leak it. Im done with this whole adding a quart of 10w30 every 80 miles or adding a quart of 20w50 every 250 miles.

Clean is also very important, I like to use brake clean followed up with carb clean. Brake clean doesnt dry too good on its own but its great at removing oil. Carb clean doesnt do too great at removing oil but it dries nicely. So brake clean the area first then follow up with a clean shop rag with carb clean on it to wipe it down.

On the valve covers, I wont be running sealer on mine, I got the thick aluminum casting Proform slant roof Ford Racing valve covers hopeful the thick aluminum casting will muffle the roller rockers as well as for the thick gasket flange to help my felpro one piece gasket to seal. I decided long ago I wont use silicone here as the gaskets are to be reuseable so I can take covers off do service and reinstall them.

But seriously, for people that dont know, please dont use that clear RTV silicone when dealing with oil. Use the Ultra Black its formulated for oil exposure the clear stuff isnt. I just dont like seeing people use the non oil formulated RTV to seal oil.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Correct, thats the same way I do it, my boss at work he puts the clear silicone on the block sits the intake down and torques it down squishing it all out and I am like god you better hope that silicone on the inside never breaks off and falls into the oil pan it will do a number on clogging up the pickup.

Me I prefer using the ultra black since its designed for oil exposure such as valve covers, oil pan, timing covers, and intake manifolds. But at work nope its use the clear silicone that isnt even designed for oil exposure and the stuff turns yellow and falls apart.

Another trick I do for helping the silicone is on the block I use a automatic punch and punch a dimpled pattern into the block. When the intake is set down and bolts finger tight the silicone will go into these dimples and will help the silicone to have something to grab onto over a slick smooth block surface.

Im going to be doing this on my 306 build myself, only difference is I will do like I do on all my personal stuff and use ultra black where it has to do with oil control. Same with the oil pan, when I will be putting a bead of ultra black in the corners before sitting the one piece pan gasket in place and finger tightening the oil pan and letting cure for 24 hours. Im not going to short cut this and try and get it done quick. Ive already had a engine in my truck that used oil, didnt leak it just used it, I wont have a new engine I put in use oil or leak it. Im done with this whole adding a quart of 10w30 every 80 miles or adding a quart of 20w50 every 250 miles.

Clean is also very important, I like to use brake clean followed up with carb clean. Brake clean doesnt dry too good on its own but its great at removing oil. Carb clean doesnt do too great at removing oil but it dries nicely. So brake clean the area first then follow up with a clean shop rag with carb clean on it to wipe it down.

On the valve covers, I wont be running sealer on mine, I got the thick aluminum casting Proform slant roof Ford Racing valve covers hopeful the thick aluminum casting will muffle the roller rockers as well as for the thick gasket flange to help my felpro one piece gasket to seal. I decided long ago I wont use silicone here as the gaskets are to be reuseable so I can take covers off do service and reinstall them.

But seriously, for people that dont know, please dont use that clear RTV silicone when dealing with oil. Use the Ultra Black its formulated for oil exposure the clear stuff isnt. I just dont like seeing people use the non oil formulated RTV to seal oil.

I'm a big fan of "The Right Stuff", but use Ultra Gray (<-see the spelling!) On my engine because it blends right in.

[Rusty_S85]

I'm a big fan of "The Right Stuff", but use Ultra Gray (<-see the spelling!) On my engine because it blends right in.

Ultra gray is good too, its a high torque RTV.

Another good one is that Motorcraft gray silicone that they sell for use on the oil pan on the diesel engines. This stuff is bad in the sense that you cant really scrape it off you have to grind it off once its cured. I used it on a 390FE big block that I pulled for a rebuild at work cause I didnt want any leaks. I regretted it cause I had to pull that engine 2 more times after the initial cause the engine builder didnt build it right and the cam went flat on the same lobes it went flat initially on. Was a real PITA to sand that silicone off but I did use it again just because I wanted to be sure there was no leaks. Was either that or the clear silicone that is hit and miss some times.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Another good one is that Motorcraft gray silicone that they sell for use on the oil pan on the diesel engines. This stuff is bad in the sense that you cant really scrape it off you have to grind it off once its cured.

...... And this is why I use a -specifically designed- Roloc surface prep disc to remove gasket residue.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Another good one is that Motorcraft gray silicone that they sell for use on the oil pan on the diesel engines. This stuff is bad in the sense that you cant really scrape it off you have to grind it off once its cured.

...... And this is why I use a -specifically designed- Roloc surface prep disc to remove gasket residue.

Yep, I keep used 80grit aluminum oxide cookies for gasket removal. they do great once worn down at removing gaskets but not hurting the underlying metal surface.

I tried the bristled plastic ones and they work too but they just dont last as long I found and they are pricy as hell on the tool truck.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yep, I keep used 80grit aluminum oxide cookies for gasket removal. they do great once worn down at removing gaskets but not hurting the underlying metal surface.

I tried the bristled plastic ones and they work too but they just dont last as long I found and they are pricy as hell on the tool truck.

Grab yourself a pack of (Scotchbrite) Rolocs.

Blue, green, red or maroon.

There's no way I would go near an aluminum casting with an 80 grit AO disc.

(and, after all it's aluminum oxide were trying to avoid, why introduce it to a surface we're trying to protect?)

[Rusty_S85]

Grab yourself a pack of (Scotchbrite) Rolocs.

Blue, green, red or maroon.

There's no way I would go near an aluminum casting with an 80 grit AO disc.

(and, after all it's aluminum oxide were trying to avoid, why introduce it to a surface we're trying to protect?)

True, but I dont use that on my personal vehicles I use that only at work. On my personal vehicles I use a scrapper. I got a nice set from Matco that if you stand it up too high it will actually shave metal without using any effort its so sharp. It works great at removing gasket material. Just at work its slower than using the disc to clean it off when trying to beat the clock to make as much money on a job as possible.